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GODEY'S ARM-CHAIR.

GOTHIC COTTAGE.

Designed expressly for Godey's Lady's Book by SAMUEL SLOAN, Architect, Philadelphia.

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SOME HINTS.

IN remitting, try to procure a draft, and don't fail to indorse it.

Address L. A. Godey, Philadelphia, Pa. That is sufficient.

If a lady is the writer, always prefix Mrs. or Miss to her signature, that we may know how to address a reply.

Town, County, and State, always in your letter.

If you miss a number of any magazine, always write to the publishers of the magazine. If Arthur's, address T. S. Arthur & Co., Philadelphia; if Harper's, address Messrs. Harper & Brothers, New York.

When a number of the Lady's Book is not received, write at once for it; don't wait until the end of the year.

When inclosing money, do not trust to the sealing matter on an envelope, but use a wafer in addition.

Mrs. Hale is not the Fashion Editress. Address "Fashion Editress, care L. A. Godey, Philadelphia."

When you send money for any other publication, we pay it over to the publisher, and there our responsibility

ceases.

We can always supply back numbers.

Subscriptions may commence with any number of the

year.

The postage on the Lady's Book, if paid three months in advance at the office where it is received, is four and a half cents for three monthly numbers.

Let the names of the subscribers and your own signature be written so that they can be easily made out.

PHILADELPHIA AGENCY.

No order attended to unless the cash accompanies it. All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage.

Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks.

Mrs. D. B. S.-Sent pattern Cordova cloak, October 16th.

Miss S. A. J.-Sent patterns 16th.

Mrs. M. C. J.-Sent bonnet by Adams's express 17th.

C. E. M.-Sent apron pattern 18th.

G. S. P.-Sent patterns 20th.

Miss S. P.-Sent pattern for Marine jacket 20th.
Mrs. H. E. S.-Sent worsted 21st.

Mrs. M. C. G.-Sent floss silk 22d.

Mrs. L. G. F.-Sent hair bracelet and ring 23d.
Miss J. L-Sent hoop skirt by Adams's express 24th.
Miss M. A. W.-Sent pattern gored dress 25th.
Miss A. M.-Sent sleeve pattern 25th.

J. M. D.-Sent hair jewelry by U. S. express 25th. Mrs. J. P.-Sent materials for paper flowers by Kinsley's express 27th.

Mrs. S. A. M.-Sent lead comb 27th.

Mrs. G. W.-Sent headdress by Adams's express 28th. Miss F. G.-Sent slippers 29th.

Miss M. J. T.-Sent patterns 30th.

Miss A. F.-Sent patterns 30th.

Mrs. E R-Sent hair ring 31st.

J. B. W.-Sent apron and waist patterns, November 1st.

Mrs. H. W.-Sent hair guard chain 2d.
Mrs. C. E. K-Sent patterns 2d.

Mrs. W. J. C.-Sent gloves 4th.

L. H. V.-Sent pattern for Marine jacket 4th.

A. S. A.-Sent patterns for working table-cover 5th. Miss M. L. P.-Sent edging 6th.

Mrs. C. W. W.-Sent muff by American express 7th.
Mr. P.-Sent dress pattern Sth.

H. & W.-Seut pattern Natalie cloak 8th.
Mrs. P. C. T.-Sent pattern Eugenie cloak 8th.
Mrs. J. B. B.-Sent package 8th.

Mrs. E. M.-Sent pattern for Marine jacket 8th.
Mrs. J. P. M.-Sent shawl 9th.

E. P. R.-Sent articles 11th.

Mrs. J. M.-Sent chenille 12th.

Mrs. K. P. L.-Sent pattern of bonnet 14th.

A. A. C.-Sent pattern of loose sack 14th. Mrs. E. R. K.-Sent infant's dress, &c., by Adams's express 14th.

E. L. R.-Sent working pattern and silk by Harnden's express 14th.

A. C. B.-We don't know what a person should take, but we know what they would deserve for making any experiment of the kind.

M. B. M.-We decline recommending anything for the removal of superfluous hair. Apply to a physician. Miss E. V. Look at Lady's Book for next month. Mrs. L. A. H.-Send the designs that we may judge of them. If the one you refer to will do for a steel plate, we will pay you the price you ask.

Miss A. R.-Solferino is a name given to a color possessing a more lilac tinge than Magenta; it is a sort of Magenta pink.

Miss C. M. and E. C. O.-The purl stitch is explained on page 452 November number. The other question we are not permitted to answer.

Mrs. D. E. A.-There is a difference of opinion about knitting the first stitch in plain knitting. We believe it makes a more even edge to slip it; either, however, is allowable.

Chemistry for the Young.

LESSON XX.-(Continued.)

452. Nitric Acid.-Having procured a bent glass tube closed at one end, or a small glass retort of this shape, put into it about a teaspoonful of powdered salt petre, otherwise

called nitrate of potash, and which is a combination of nitric acid and potash. Pour then in upon it by means of another tube, in such a manner that the neck of the apparatus may not be soiled, about six teaspoonfuls (a teaspoon must not be used as the measure) of oil of vitriol; append then another tube, as here represented, and, applying the heat of a small spirit-lamp flame to the mixture, distil, keeping the receiving tube

We

cool by enveloping it in strips of wet blotting paper. The result is nitric acid, or aquafortis. The decomposition which has taken place is exceedingly simple. had in the tube retort nitrate of potash, we now have sulphate of potash; in other words, the sulphuric acid has chased away the nitric acid, and has taken its place, as may easily be demonstrated by getting out the contents of the tube retort, dissolving them in water, and subjecting them to the tests for sulphuric acid detailed in

395.

453. How shall we know that the liquid which has distilled over is nitric acid? First of all, that it is an acid may be demonstrated in the usual manner, by means of blue litmus-paper, which it reddens; secondly, we may know that it is nitric acid by various specific tests, of which I shall select two as having already come under our notice. In our investigations on the metals tin and antimony, it will be remembered we proved that neither of these was soluble in nitric acid; but, on coming into contact with it, became resolved into a white powder, whilst red-colored fumes were evolved, 332. Only nitric acid will produce this result; hence if the liquid result of our distillation give rise to a similar phenomenon, it must also be nitric acid. There are, however, other tests for nitric acid. Touch the finger, or a quill, or a piece of white flannel, with a little of this liquid, and remark after the lapse of a few hours, the yellow stain. Remark, too, how the color of the stain becomes deepened by contact with ammonia (hartshorn). This test becomes valuable when nitric acid has been administered with the object of committing murder.

454. Having demonstrated that the fluid is really nitric acid, add very cautiously to it portions of liquor potassæ, in such a manner that a little acid may preponderate, a point which may readily be determined by testing from time to time with blue litmus-paper. Moisten some slips of blotting-paper with this solution; set them aside to dry, and when dry, preserve them. Put the solution into a saucer, place the saucer on a hot gratehob, and let it remain there until dry. If the operation have been carefully conducted, crystals will be seen, which are crystals of nitre. We have given the nitric acid, that which we took from it-potash; and thus nitrate of potash results.

455. Touch a slip of paper just dried, with a piece of glowing charcoal, in such a manner that the paper may be ignited, but not with flame. Observe the peculiar manner in which the paper burns. It is now touch-paper. Only four classes of salts are capable of making touchpaper; they are the NITRATES, CHLORATES, BROMATES, and IODATES. That our present salt is a nitrate we know, seeing that we have made it give up its nitric acid; but we need not even have given ourselves this trouble-a much simpler plan would have sufficed. Put a little nitrate of potash along with some fragments of metallic copper into a test-tube, add two or three drops of sulphuric acid, apply heat, and observe the orangecolored vapors. Any substance capable of yielding these under the circumstances indicated, must be a nitrate.

456. Throw a little nitre, or, indeed, any nitrate, upon a piece of burning coal, and remark the deflagration which ensues. This, in point of fact, is merely another form of the touch-paper experiment; in one case, the paper furnishes the carbon; in the other case, this element is furnished by charcoal. Put a little nitre in a German glass test tube, ignite the tube strongly, either in a spirit-lamp flame or in a coal fire, and remark that, notwithstanding all the heat applied, the nitre will not barn. Now drop in a fragment of charcoal, or a chip of paper, or of wood, and remark the deflagration.

457. Mix very intimately in a mortar about twenty-five parts by weight of nitre, five of charcoal, and three of sulphur. The result may be considered as gunpowdernot in grains, like the gunpowder of commerce, for the graining operation is purely mechanical; but, chemically speaking, it is gunpowder.

Centre-Table Gossip.

FANCY WORK OF THE WINTER.

OUR centre-tables are no longer exclusively decorated with brilliant chenille, and wools, and Broderie Anglais. Even the inevitable Afghan has given place to the long-banished stocking; and, economy having become the fashion, shirts have taken their old place in the work-baskets of our lady readers. To give them what aid and countenance we can in this laudable reform, we have inquired as to "the latest fashion" of collars, wristbands, etc., and are indebted to the new and stylish house of Taylor & Co., in the region of the New York Hotel, for the information we are able to give.

Mr. Duescher, well remembered in the same department at Genin's Bazaar, we learn that collars may "stand up" or "turn down," as is most becoming to the wearer, and be equally fashionable. The "De Joinville" (stand up) is about two inches wide, meeting at the throat when the wearer follows the prevailing fashion, and carries a smoothly shaven chin; rounded off when there is a beard to be accommodated. "The Paragon" is about the same width, turned over on a band; but, instead of square points, the ends slope gradually back-say for three-quarters of an inch. This is a decided novelty, also; the stitching, which, instead of being the width of the seam only from the edge, is full half an inch, making a decided change. The wristband is straight, four inches or more deep, and stitched in the same manner. The button is near the sleeve, as in the old wristband, the buttonholes for sleeve-buttons at the other end of the wristband, which does not turn back at all, but falls straight over the hand, shaped in a slight, easy curve on the under side.

Fancy shirts, say a set of a half dozen, have the bosoms laid in longitudinal plaits in groups of different widths. The prevailing style is three plaits of moderate width on each side.

French flannel shirts are more worn than ever before. We were shown by Mr. Deuscher a large variety, of plaids and plain colors. They seem well suited to travellers, very soft and warm; worn with a white collar; the bosom is plain, one square plait in the middle.

For the benefit of those who make useful holiday presents to husbands and brothers, we inquired as to the fashion of neckties, and were shown small scarfs, as the most fashionable wear; black, black and crimson, black and green, etc. etc. They are made up with a narrow band to pass under the collar, and are perhaps four inches wide (double) and eighteen to twenty-four long.

"The Cardigan Jacket," a novelty of the season, may be described as a very elastic, ribbed worsted shirt, in high colors. It is intended to serve the purpose of a lady's sacque, "a wrap up," to be worn under a coat for warmth.

EVENING DRESS.

OUR plate and its description give much seasonable information, but other items may not be amiss.

Simple evening dress of white muslin, the skirt trimmed with a number of narrow flounces placed on the bias, and surmounted by a headed flounce, traversed by a puffing, in which a ponceau ribbon runs. Body gathered. Round waist. The sleeves have two puffs and four frills on the shoulder. Duchess sash of white

ribbon, bordered with ponceau or whatever color may be run in the skirt trimming. A simple robe of white tarletane, terminated by a deep flounce, surmounted by a full ruche of tarletane découpée. Corsage draped behind and before. In the hair a ruche at one side and a tuft of white violets on the other. Again, a robe of very thin Indian muslin, the flounce lined with rose-colored taffetas. One other: a robe of sky-blue silk, with six little flounces at the bottom of the skirt, each flounce garnished with a bias of white silk; these flounces traverse the robe to one side, where they are finished with a bow of ribbon. The corsage is a berthé of fulled thulle illusion, quadrilled with blue ribbon velvet; this gorgerette is surrounded with two little flounces to correspond with the trimming of the skirt, bordered by sprays of rose foliage, with a large full-blown white rose on the bosom and on the shoulders. Sprays of The roses and their foliage also decorate the ornaments that traverse the skirt. The coiffure is of Thé roses, disposed d la Greek.

With this very radiant toilet we observed a marvellous Arab bournous, of white Algerine tissue, with great glands and tassels, white and gold.

HEADDRESSES.

THESE are mostly of flowers, velvet and blonde, blonde and flowers, velvet and feathers, etc. Flowers alone are only suitable for full dress. We give a description of some we have seen:

One was a black velvet coronet, on the right side of which was a large group of sweet peas. A piece of black lace, about two inches wide, was put on rather full round the back, and finished off on the left side with a black lace lappet, made into a bow and ends.

Another, very suitable for an elderly lady, worn in place of a cap, was composed in the following manner: Puffs of black velvet, mounted on a wire, formed the foundation; a black and white lace was then sewn round, full on the inside, the front lace falling over the head; on the left side were arranged two small white ostrich feathers, put on under the lace; and the other side was finished with a bow and ends of black velvet. This headdress was extremely stylish, and suitable for the purpose before named.

Another was composed of scarlet ribbon, four inches wide, and marabout feathers. The ribbon was made into four bows, with three ends, the ends different lengths, the longest being half a yard. Three small feathers, placed on the left side of the back, completed this truly elegant headdress for the back of the head.

Another was made of black and white narrow blonde and cerise velvet, two inches in width; the blonde was quilled and made into small rosettes, which were placed on a wire pointed in front. The left side was then finished with small bows of velvet laying back, and a large bow with ends half a yard long completed the back. Another pretty light headdress was made in the following manner-with blue ribbon, black lace, and white leafless roses. The ribbon, which was three inches in width, was arranged in small bows on a wire foundation, pointed in front, with a bow of black lace between each blue one, the bows all laying from the front to the back. Quite in the centre of the front was placed a large leafless rose, whilst three of the same flowers fiuished off the back.

Another, very pretty for slight mourning, was composed of edged black thulle, the thulle quilled and

mounted on a wire as before; a white rose, with steel leaves and buds, was placed quite in the centre of the front, while a larger rose of the same description completed the back of this simple yet pretty headdress. Another was a black velvet coronet, ornamented in the front with small steel stars; two bauds of velvet, one inch wide, edged with narrow lace, crossed over the back of the head, and formed two loops each side of the back; between these loops a group of roses, of a bright pink color, was placed; whilst a lace lappet was looped over them, with the ends falling over the shoulder. Headdresses are made in this shape with various materials, and are pretty and simple, made in full quillings of silk to correspond with the dress worn.

CLIPPINGS AT OUR CENTRE-TABLE.

WHAT THE ITALIANS MANUFACTURE.

Now that Italy has once more a national existence, the country is beginning to rise in manufacturing and commercial importance. They have had an "Industrial Exhibition" of their own, which writers describe as but the commencement of what they expect to accomplish. We find that the silk-growers of Upper Italy appear to bear away the palm from all their rivals in the quality of their raw silk, both white and yellow; and that produced by the Romagna seems the most inferior, both in color, strength, and richness. Among the manufactured specimens, the furniture brocades turned out by the looms of Piedmont and Lombardy, and some of those sent from Naples, are of a splendor, both for design and quality, which halts but a little, if at all, behind the manufactures of Lyons. Gold aud silver moire, and goldbrocaded silks for church vestments, too, are among the most advanced branches of this industry. The linens and damasks for table use, although very far behind what England can show in beauty of finish, are yet in all respects very promising, and have generally in Italy the advantage which a great number of our most plausibly elegant table-linen manufacturers have not-of containing no admixture of cotton, and of consequently enduring unfrayed the scrubbing and thumping of seve ral generations of washerwomen, as did the household linen piled in the lavender-scented oak-presses of our grandmothers. Tuscany furnishes a great quantity of the best goods of this kind, as well as all the varieties of towelling, sheeting, etc.; less tempting to look at, but more reasonable and far more durable than ours.

Versatile Naples has contributed products of all kinds to the National Exhibition. Pianos, carriages, silks, linens, hemp cloths, and a dozen more kinds of manufactured articles, besides a very beautiful, though not very numerous display of wrought coral ornaments, which, with singular bad taste, have been crowded into two lower shelves of a sort of glazed étagère, where they make no appearance whatever, and where numbers of visitors never discover them at all. Nothing can exceed the elegance of the bracelets, brooches, and other ornaments of mixed red and white, or of pale rose-colored coral, worked with infinite taste into knots, posies, and cameos of rare delicacy and finish. The Florentine and the Roman mosaics, handsome as they are, look heavy and graceless beside this exquisite manufacture; and one feels quite provoked at the stores of good material wasted in cutting those massive strings of rich fleshcolored coral beads, which look too heavy to adorn any throat but that of a Juggernaut idol, when they could be turned into such elegant and becoming trinkets as these.

A WOMAN'S ANNUAL. AMONG the most superb English gift-books of the year is the "Victoria Regia," dedicated, by permission, to the Queen. It is edited by Adelaide Proctor, and printed entirely by women. The typographical execution is spoken of as very fine. There are gentlemen among the contributors, however; Tennyson, and, in fact, all the best English writers appear in its list. It is a long time since a really fine annual has been published, and we hope this will be a success.

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelops, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets, will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq.

No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting.

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Dress goods from Evans & Co.'s; mourning goods from Besson & Son; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from the most celebrated establishments; jewelry from Wriggens & Warden, or Caldwell's, Philadelphia.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION-PLATE FOR JANUARY.

EVENING-DRESS.

Fig. 1.-Dress of white tarleton, silk, or muslin; it can be made of either material. The skirt covered by quilled flowers or ruches, in a peculiar and graceful arrangement. At the back of the dress they are placed in the ordinary manner; on the front breadth they are carved or rounded on, the ends on each side passing over the back flounce, and caught upon it by a single rose with foliage. The waist is composed of similar founces, with one placed en bretelle at the sides; the rose trimming is carried over it. Sleeve, one flounce, with a single rose. Simple rose wreath for the hair, which is arranged in curls. (See Chat.)

Fig. 2.-Dress of black velvet, with a tucker of white lace in the neck, fastened by a blue velvet bow or rosette. Mantle of rich black lace. For the hair a jewelled aigrette, with a blue plume laid to the left; a similar one is placed in the back of the hair, curving downward. Fig. 3.-Costume for a fancy ball. Maize-colored petticoat, trimmed with rows of black velvet; purple jupe

caught up by bows of black velvet; black velvet bodice laced in front. Apron, sleeve, ruffles, and berthe of white muslin, with a ribbon ruche.

Fig. 4. Dress of pink crêpe, over pink silk. Skirt, bouffante, or puffed, each breadth being held in its place by two tongue-shaped ruches of white blonde, having the appearance of lappets, between them, on the hem, a plaited ruche of pink ribbon. The upper ornament has a spray of roses, buds, and foliage. Grecian waist; shellshaped sleeves, edged by white blonde and caught with

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CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS, FOR JANUARY.

To commence with that important part of every woman's dress, the bonnet, we shall describe several of the most tasteful hats on view at the establishment of Miss McConnel (so well-known by all Philadelphians), Clinton Place, New York. We shall describe what are called "undress," "walking," or "second bonnets," by people who wear two or three in a season-which are suitable for any occasion except a full dress reception-reserving "dress bonnets" until our next.

Those favorite piqué or quilted hats are worn quite as much as last year, and are very suitable for young girls, or for travelling hats. At Miss McConnel's we noted the most simply tasteful one we have seen this season; the quilting in black silk, a fine diamond pattern, put on to the frame plain, of course; black velvet cape, turned up and corded with apple green. The only ornament a shaded ruche of silk, from the deepest to the lightest shade of apple green, graduated so as to be very full and wide at the top, narrower towards the ends; this is placed towards the front of the brim from point to point. Half bonnet cap of thulle; diadem of green velvet flowers arranged in black lace.

For a young girl, bonnet of drab quilting, with cape of Magenta velvet; an ornament of Magenta velvet, in close plaits, across the top of the hat. Magenta flowers and thulle cap inside the brim. Drab and ponceau (a very bright shade of scarlet) is also a good contrast.

Plain dark blue velvet hat, with a coque (plaited ornament) of blue velvet on the top; from this extends a plaiting of blue velvet, in the fashion of a wreath around the crown. The cape is of lace covered with blonde, the under cape bound with blue velvet. Half bonnet cap, and a double row of large Marguerites, or field daisies inside the brim. This will give some idea of the height of the brim from the forehead-to allow two rows of flowers. This is the best shape of the season. The low brim flatted down to the head, with the flowers concealing all

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