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Designed expressly for Qodey's Lady's Book by Samdel Sloas, Architect, Philadelphia.

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In remitting, try to procure a draft, and don't fail to indorse it.

Address L. A. Godey, Philadelphia, Pa. That U sufficient.

If a lady Is the writer, always prefix Mrs. or Miss to her signature, that we may know how to address a reply.

Town, County, and State, always in your letter.

If you miss a number of any magazine, always write to the publishers of the magazine. If Arthur's, address T. S. Arthur & Co., Philadelphia; if Harper's, address Messrs. Harper & Brothers, New York.

When a number of the Lady's Book Is not received, write at once for it; dou't wait until tho end of the year.

When Inclosing money, do not trust to the sealing matter on an envelope, but use a wafer in addition.

Mrs. Halo is not the Fashion Editress. Address "Fashion Editress, care L. A. Godey, Philadelphia."

When you send money for any other publication, we pay it over to the publisher, and thcroour responsibility ceases.

We can always supply back numbers. / Subscriptions may commence with any number of the year.

The postage on the Lady's Book, if paid three months in advance at the office where it is received, is /our and a h/ilf cents for three monthly numbers.

Let the names of the subscribers and your own signature be written so that they can bo easily made out.


No order attended to unless the cash accompanies it.

All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage.

Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, aud Stat© you reside In. Nothing can be made out of post-marks.

Mrs. D. B. S.— Sent pattern Cordova cloak, October 16th.

Miss S. A. J.—Sent patterns 16th.

Mrs. M. C. J.—Sent bonnet by Adams's express 17th.

C. E. M—Sent apron pattern 18th.

O. S P.—Sent patterns 20th.

Miss S. P.—Sent pattern for Marine Jacket 20th.

Mrs. H. E. 8.—Sent worsted 21st.

Mrs. M. C. O.— Sent floss stlk 22d.

Mrs. L. G. F.— Sent hair bracelet and ring 23d.

Miss J. L —Sent hoop skirt by Adams's express 24th.

Miss M. A. W.—Sent pattern gored dress 25th.

Miss A. M.—Sent sleeve pattern 25th.

J. M. D.—Sent hair Jewelry by TJ. S. express 25th.

Mrs. J. P.—Sent materials for paper flowers by Kinsley's express 27th. < Mrs. S. A. M.— Sent lead comb 27th.

Mrs. G. W.—Sent headdress by Adams's express 28th.

Miss F. G— Sent slippers 29th.

Miss M. J. T.—Sent patterns 30th.

Miss A. F.—Sent patterns 30th.

Mrs. E R —Sent hair ring 31st.

J. B. W.—Sent apron and waist patterns, November 1st.

Mr*. H. W.—Seat hair guard chain 2d.

Mrs. C. E. K —Sent patterns 2d.

Mrs. W. J. C—Sent gloves 4th.

L. H. V.—Sent pattern for Marine jacket 4th.

A. S. A.—Sent patterns for working table-cover 5th.

Misb M. L. P.—Sent edging 6th.

Mrs. C. W. W.—Sent niuffby American express 7th.

Mr. P.—Sent dress pattern Sth.

H. & W.—Sent pattern Natalio cloak Sth.

Mrs. P. C. T.—Seut pattern Eugenie cloak 8th.

Mrs. J. B. B.—Sent package Sth.

Mrs. E. M.—Sent pattern for Marine Jacket Sth.

Mrs. J. P. M—Sent Bhawl 9th.

K. P. R.—Sent articles 11th.

Mrs. J. M.— Sent chenille 12th.

Mrs. K. P. L.—Sent pattern of bonnet 14th.

A. A. C—Sent pattern of loose sack 14th.

Mrs. E. R. K.—Sent infant's dress, &c, by Adams's express 14th.

E. L. R.—Sent working pattern and silk by Harnden't express 14th.

A. C. B.—We don't know what a person should take, bu*t we know what they would deserve for making any experiment of the kind.

M. B. M.—We decline recommending anything for tha removal of superfluous hair. Apply to a physician.

Miss E. V.—Look at Lady's Book for next month.

Mrs. L. A. H.—Send the designs that we may judge of them. If the one you refer to will do for a steel plate, wo will pay you the price you ask.

Miss A. R.—Solferino is a name given to a color po»sessing a more lilac tinge than Magenta; it is a sort of Magenta pink.

Miss C. M. and E. C O.—The purl stitch Is explained on page 452 November number. The other question wo are not permitted to answer.

Mrs. D. E. A.—There Is a difference of opinion about knitting the first stitch in plain knitting. We believe It makes a more even edge to slip it; either, however, is allowable.

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LESSON XX.— {Continued.)

452. Nitric Acid.—Having procured a bent glass tube closed at one end, or a small glass retort of this shape, put into It about a teaspoonful of ( powdered saltpetre, otherwise called nitrate of potash, and which is a combination of nitric acid and potash. Pour then in upon it by means of another tube, in such a manner that the neck of tha apparatus may not be soiled, about six teaspooufuls (a teaspoon must not be used as the measure) of oil of vitriol ; append then another tube, as here represented, and, applying the heat of a small spirit-lamp flame to the mixture, distil, keeping the receiving tube ""•*" cool by enveloping it in strips of wet blotting paper. The result is nitric acid, or aquafortis. The decomposition which has taken place is exceedingly simple. We had In the tube retort nitrate of potash, wo now have »vtphate of potash; in other words, the sulphuric acid ha* chased away the nitric acid, and has taken its place, an may easily be demonstrated by getting out the contents of the tube retort, dissolving them In water, and subjecting them to the tests for sulphuric acid detailed la 395.


453. How shall we know that the liquid which has dlwllled over is nitric acid? First of all, that it Is an add maybe demonstrated in the usual manner, by means of blue litmus-paper, which it reddens; secondly, we may know that it is nitric acid by various specific teBts, of which I shall selett two as having already come under our notice. In our investigations on the metals tin and antimooy, it will be remembered we proved that neither of these was soluble in nitric acid; but, on coming into contact with it, became resolved into a white powder, whilst red-colored fumes were evolved, 3.12. Only nitric acid will produce this result; hence if the liquid result of our distillation give rise to a similar phenomenon, it must also be nitric acid. There are, however, other te;<ts for nitric acid. Touch the fiugor, or a quill, or a piece of white flannel, with a little of this liquid, and remark after the lapse of a few hours, the yellow stain. Remark, too, how the color of the stain becomes deepened by contact with ammonia (hartshorn). This test becomes valuable when nitric acid has been administered with the object of committing murder.

454. Having demonstrated that the fluid is really nitric acid, add very cautiously to it portions of liquor potassn, in such a manner that a little acid may preponderate, a point which may readily be determined by testing from time to time with blue Htmus-paper. Moisten some •lips of blotting-paper with this solution; set them aside to dry, and when dry, preserve them. Put the solution into a saucer, place the saucer on a hot gratehob, and let it remain there until dry. If the operation have been carefully conducted, crystals will be seen, which are crystals of nitre. We have given the nitric acid, that which we took from h~pott.uk; and thus nitrate of potash results.

455. Touch a slip of paper jnst dried, with a piece of glowing charcoal, in such a manner that the paper may be ignited, but not with flame. Observe the peculiar manner in which the paper burns. It is now touch-paper. Only four classes of salts are capable of makiug touchpaper; they are the Nitrates, Chlorates, Bromates, and IoDATEa. That our present salt is a nitrate wo know, seeing that we have made it give up its nitric acid; but we need not even havo given ourselves this trouble—a much simpler plan would have sufficed. Fut a little nitrate of potash along with some fragments of metallic copper into a test-tube, add two or three drops of sulphuric acid, apply heat, and observe the orangecolored vapors. Any substance capable of yielding these under the circumstances Indicated, inust be a nitrate.

456. Throw a little nitre, or, indeed, any nitrate, upon a piece of burning coal, and remark the deflagration which ensues. This, in point of fact, is merely another form of the touch-paper experiment; in one case, the paper furnishes the carbon ; in the other case, this element is furnished by charcoal. Put a little nitre In a German glass test tube, ignite the tube strongly, either in a spirit-lamp flame or in a coal Arc, and remark that, notwithstanding all the heat applied, the nitre will not barn. Now drop in a fragment of charcoal, or a chip of paper, or of wood, and remark the deflagration.

457. Mix very intimately In a mortar about twenty-five parts by weight of nitre, five of charcoal, and three of sulphur. The result may be considered as gunpowder— not in grains, like the gunpowder of commerce, for the graining operation Is purely mechanical; but, chemically ■peaking, ft is gunpowder.

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Odr centre-tables are no longer exclusively decorated with brilliant chenille, and wools, and BroderU Anglais. Even the inevitable Afghan has given place to the long-banished stocking; and, economy having become the fashion, shirts have taken their old place in the work-baskets of our lady readers. To give thorn what aid and countenance we can in this laudttlde reform, we havo inquired as to "the latest fashion" of collars, wristbands, etc., and are indebted to the new and stylish house of Taylor & Co., in the region of the New York Hotel, for the information we are able to give. Mr. Duesoher, well remembered In the Bame department at Genin's Bazaar, we learn that collars may "stand up" or "turn down," as Is most becoming to the wearer, and be equally fashionable. The "De Jotnvillo" (stand up) is about two inches wide, meeting at the throat when the wearer follows the prevailing fashion, and carries a smoothly shaven chin; rounded off when there is a beard to be accommodated. "The Paragon" is about the same width, turned ovor on a band ; but, instead of square points, the ends slope gradually back—say for three-quarters of an inch. This is a decided novelty, also; the stitching, which, instead of being the width of the seam only from the edge, is full half an inch, making a decided change. The wristband is straight, four inches or more deep, and stitched in the same manner. The button is near the sleeve, as in the old wristband, the buttonholes for sleeve-buttons at the other end of the wristband, which does not turn back at all, but falls straight over the hand, Bhaped in a slight, easy curvo on the under side.

Fancy shirts, say a set of a half dozen, have the bosoms laid in longitudinal plaits in groups of different widths. The prevailing style is throe plaits of moderate width on each side.

French flannel shirts are more worn than ever before. We were shown by Mr. Deuscher a large variety, of plaids and plain colors. They seem well suited to travellers, very soft and warm; worn with a white collar; the bosom is plain, one square plait in the middle.

For the benefit of thoso who make useful holiday presents to husbands and brothers, we inquired as to the fashion of neckties, and were shown small scarfs, as the most fashionable wear; black, black and crimson, black and green, etc. etc. They are made up with a narrow band to pass under the collar, and are perhaps four inches wide (double) and eighteen to twenty-four long.

"The Cardigan Jacket," a novelty of the season, may be described as a very elastic, ribbed worsted shirt, in high colors. It is intended to serve the purpose of a lady's sacque, "a wrap up," to be worn under a coat for warmth.


Or/R plate and Its description give mnch seasonable Information, bnt other items may not bo amiss.

Simple evening dross of white muslin, the skirt trimmed with a number of narrow flounces placed on the bias, and surmounted by a headed flounce, traversed by a puffing, In which a ponceau ribbon runs. Body gathered. Round waist. The sleeves havo two puffs and four frills on tho shoulder. Duchess sash of white

ribbon, bordered with ponceau or whatever color may be run Id the skirt trimming. A simple robe of white tarletane, terminated by a deep flounce, surmounted by a full ruche of tarletauo tilcoupie. Corsage draped behind and before. In the hair a ruche at one side and a tuft of white violets on the other. Again, a robe of very thin Indian muslin, the flounce lined with rose-colored taffrttts. One other: a robe of sky-blue silk, with six little flounces at the bottom of the skirt, each flounce garnished with a bias of white silk; these flounces traverse the rube to oue side, where they are finished with a bow of ribbon. The corsage is a bcrVU of fulled thulle illusion, quadrilled with blue ribbon volvet; this gorgererte. is surrounded with two little flounces to correspond with the trimming of the skirt, bordered by sprays of roso foliage, with a large full-blown white rose on the bosom and an the shoulders. Sprays of Thi rosea and thell foliage also decorate the ornaments that traverse the skirt. The coiffure is of Thi roses, disposed d la Greek.

With this very radiant toilet wo observed a marvellous Arab bottrnomt, of white Algerine tissue, with great glands and tassels, wbiio and gold.


Thesk arc mostly of flowers, velvet and blonde, blonde and flowers, velvet and feathers, etc. Flowers alouo are ouly suitable for full dress. We give a description of some we havo seen :—

One was a black velvet coronet, on the right side of which was a large group of sweet peas. A piece of black lace, about two inches wide, was put on rather full round the back, and finished off on the left side with a black luce lappet, made Into a bow and ends.

Another, very suitable for an elderly lady, worn in place of a cap, was composed In the following manner: Puffs of black volvet, mounted on a wire, formed the foundation; a black and white lace was then sewn round, full on the inside, the front lace falling over the head; on the left side were arranged two small white ostrich feathers, put on under the lace; and the other side was finished with a bow and ends of black velvet. This headdress was extremely stylish, and suitable for the purpose before named.

Another was composed of scarlet ribbon, four inches wide, and marabout feathers. Tha ribbon was made into four bows, with three ends, the ends different lengths, the longest being half a yard. Three small feathers, placed on the left Bide of the back, completed this truly elegant headdress for the back of the head.

Another was made of black and white narrow blonde and cerise velvet, two inches in width; the blonde was quilled and made Into small rosettes, which were placed on a wire pointed in front. The left side was then finished with small bows of velvet laying back, and a large bow with ends half a yard long completed the back. Another pretty light headdress was made In the following manner—with bine ribbon, black lace, and wtite leafless roses. The ribbon, which was three inches in width, was arranged in small bows on a wire foundation, pointed in front, with a bow of black lace between **ach blue one, the bows all laying from the front to the back. Quite in the centre of the front was placed a large leafless rose, whilst three of the same flowers finished off the back.

Another, very pretty for slight mourning, was composed of edged black thulle, the thulle quilled and

mounted on a wire as before; a white rose, with steel leaves and bnds, was placed quite in the centre of the front, while a larger rose of the same description completed the back of this simple yet pretty headdress. Another was a black velvet coronet, ornamented in the front with small steel stars; two bands of velvet, one Inch wide, edged with narrow lace, crossed over the back of the head, and formed two loops each side of the back; between these loops a group of roses, of a bright pink color, was placed ; whilst a lace lappet was looped over them, with the ends falling over the shoulder. Headdresses are made in this shape with various materials, and are pretty and simple, mado in full quillings of silk to correspond with the dress worn.



Now that Italy has once more a national existence, the country is beginning to rise in manufacturing and commercial importance. They have had an "Industrial Exhibition" of their own, which writers describe as but the commencement of what they expect to accomplish. We find that the silk-growers of Upper Italy appear to bear away the palm from all their rivals in the quality of their raw silk, both white and yellow; and that produced by the Romagna seems the most inferior, both In color, strength, and richness. Among the manufactured specimens, the furniture brocades turned out by the looms of Piedmont and Lombardy, and some of those sent from Naples, are of a splendor, both for design and quality, which halts but a little, if at all, behind the manufactures of Lyons. Gold and silver moire, and goldbrocaded silks for church vestments, too, are nmong the most advanced branches of this industry. The linens and damasks for table use, although very far behind what England can show in beauty of finish, are yet in all respects very promising, and have penerally In Italy the advantage which a great number of our most plausibly* elegant table-linen manufacturers have not—of containing no admixture of cotton, and of consequently enduring unfrayed the scrubbing and thumping of several generations of washerwomen, as did the household linen piled in the lavender-scented oak-presses of our grandmothers. Tuscany furnishes a great quantity of the best goods of this kind, as well as all the varieties of towelling, sheeting, etc.; less tempting to look at, but more reasonable and fiir more duruble than ours.

Versatile Naples has contributed products of all kinds to the National Exhibition. Pianos, carriages, silks, linens, hemp cloths, and a dozen more kinds of manufactured articles, besides a very beautiful, though not very numerous display of wrought coral ornaments, which, with singular bad taste, have been crowded into two lower shelves of n sort of glazed ttugIre, where they make no appearance whatever, and where numbers of visitors never discover them at all. Nothing can exceed the elegance of the bracelets, brooches, and other ornaments of mixed red and white, or of pale rose-colored coral, worked with infinite taste into knots, posies, and cameos of rare delicacy and finish. The Florentine and the Roman mosaics, handsome as they are, look heavy and graceless beside this exquisite manufacture; and one feels quite provoked at the stores of good material wasted In cutting those massive strings of rich fleshcolored coral beads, which look too heavy to adorn any throat but that of a Juggernaut idol, when thry could be turned into such elegant and becoming trinkets as these.

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Hatikq bad frequent application)! for the purchase of Jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editreas of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelope, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets, will be chosen with a view to economy, at well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

Orders, aeevmjxtnied by clucks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq.

No order will be attetided to unless tlie money is first received. Seither Vu>, Editor nor Publisher will be accountable fnr losses Viat may occur in remitting.

Instruction* to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Press goods from Evans k Co.'s; mourning goods from Besson 4 Son; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York ; bonnets from the most celebrated establishments; jewelry from Wriggens & Warden, or Caldwell's, Philadelphia.

When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final.



Fig. 1.—Press of white tarleton, silk, or muslin; it can be made of either material. The skirt covered by quilled Sowers or niches, in a peculiar and graceful arrangement. At the back of the dress they are placed in the ordinary manner; on the front breadth they are carved or rounded on, the ends on each side passing over the back flounce, and cangbt upon it by a single rose with foliage. The waist is composed of similar flounces, with one placed en bretelle at the sides; the rose trimming is carried over it. Sleeve, one flounce, with a single rose. Simple rose wreath for the hair, which is arranged in curls. (See Chat.)

Fig. 2.—Dress of black velvet, with a tucker of white lace in the neck, fastened by a blue velvet bow or rosette. Mantle of rich black lace. For the hair a jewelled aigrette, with a blue* plume laid to the left; a similar one is placed in the back of the hair, curving downward.

Fig. 3.—Costnmo for a fancy ball. Maize-colored petticoat, trimmed with rows of black velvet; pnrplejupe

caught up by bows of black velvet; black velvet bodice laced la front. Apron, sleeve, ruffles, aud berth* of white muslin, with a ribbon ruche.

Fig. 4.—Dress of pink crCpe, over pink silk. Skirt, bouffante, or puffed, each breadth being held in its place by two tongue-shaped ruches of white bloude, having the appearance of lappets, between them, on the hem, a plaited ruche of pink ribbon. The upper oruameut bus a spray of roses, buds, and foliage. Grecian waist; shellshaped sleeves, edged by white blonde and caught with roses.

Fig. 5.—Full dress for ope*a, of white satin, with superb black lace flounces, headed by a ruche of white satin ribbon. Sortie de bal, or opera cloak, of white satiu covered by black lace, and edged by a ruching of white satin ribbon. Coronel of Parma violets. Bouquet of violets, with a single rose.


Fig A.—Greek natioual dress. Buff gaiters. Crimson trowsers, very full, and braided on the pockets. Full blue sash, white vest, bine jacket braided with gold. Greek cap, of crimson, blue, aud gold.

Fig. 2.—Peasant dress, of apple green silk, cut square at the throat; the chemisette crossed by bands of black velvet. White muslin apron and head tire; the latter has a narrow ruche of green ribbon.


To commence with that important part of every woman's dress, the bonnet, we shall describe several of the most tasteful hats on view at the establishment of Miss McConnel (so well-known by all Philadelphiaus), Clinton Place, New York. We shall describe what are called "undress," "walking," or "second bonnets," by people who wear two or three In a season—which are suitable for any occasion except a full dress reception—reserving "dress bonnets" until our next.

TboB© favorite pique or quilted hats are worn quite as much as last year, and are very suitable for young girls, or for travelling hats. At Miss McConnel's we noted the most simply tasteful one we have seen this season; the quilting in black silk, a flue diamond pattern, put on to the frame plain, of course; black velvet cape, turned up and corded with apple green. The only ornament a shaded ruche of silk, from the deepest to the lightest shade of apple green, graduated so as to be very full and wide at the top, narrower towards the ends; this is placed towards the front of the brim from point to point. Half bonnet cap of thulle; diadem of green velvet flowers arranged in black lace.

For a young girl, bonnet of drab quilting, with cape of Magenta velvet; an ornament of Magenta velvet, in close plaits, across the top of the hat. Magenta flowers and thulle cap Inside the brim. Drab and ponceau (a very bright shade of scarlet) is also a j^ood contrast.

Plain dark bine velvet hat, with a coque (plaited ornament) of blue velvet on the top; from this extends a plaiting of blue velvet, in the lash ion of a wreath around the crown. The cape isof lace covered with blonde, the under cape bound with blue velvet. Half bonnet cap, and a double row of large Marguerites, or field daisies inside the brim. This will give some idea of the height of the brim from the forehead—to allow two rows of flowers. This is the best shape of the season. The low brim flatted down to the head, with the flowers concealing all

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