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OUE MUSICAL COLUMN.
All the music of the season appears to have heen crowded into the last month or two. With opera, concert, soiree, and first class private entertainments, we have been quite overcome. February brought with it the redoubtable Max Maretzek, and the Natal i sisters of Philadelphia, the story of whose capture by the brigands of Mexico turns out to be a pretty fiction. The arrivals also numbered Gottschalk, and the Grand Opera Troupe, the former of whom has been playing as well with a lame hand as he formerly did with a sound one. Master Rico, a pupil of our fellow citizen, Carl Woifsohn, has been concerting. The Saturday afternoon concerts continue crowded. The Old Folks, returned from London, have also been with us, Mrs. Nichols appearing in a court dress, once worn by Queen Elizabeth. And Sanford, always up to fun in a musical way, has been burlesquing them and every one else at his comical establishment down Eleventh St.
New Sheet Music for Piano.—We again have a large, varied, and excellent list of entirely new music, never before named in this Column, to enumerate to our friends. We will cheerfully purchase and forward to any address any of these pieces on receipt of price; orders to be sent to J. Starr Holloway, Philadelphia,
Songs and Ballads, from the press of Root and Cady, Chicago: Dream on, Lillie; pretty song by G. F. Root. My Heart is Like a Silent Late; with a novel and pleasing accompaniment. The Vacant Chair; suggested by an incident in the war. Home Far Away; arranged from Flotow, also by Mr. Root. Nellie Lost and Found; a touching song and chorus. Our Captain's Last Words. Song of the Egyptian Girl. Death Song of the Robin. Mine Own, answer to the favorite song, Call Me Pet .fames. Price of each 23 cents.
For 60 cents, Parting Song, by Freitag, for four female voices. Beantlful cantata of considerable length.
Polkas, waltzes, etc., from the same press; Fairy Polka, redowa, a fine composition by A. J. Vaas, 25 cents. The Lafner, waltz by Otto, 25. The Rogers Schottischc, 25. Skating Polka, embellished with fine skating scene, 40. General Fremont's March, with equestrian portrait, 40. Hope Mazourka, by Klingeman, 30; Delusion, Mazourka Characterise que, by the same, 30; both fine practising pieces. Blanche, Valse Melodicuse, 40; Rosebud, Polka Rondo, 40; Marrie, Polka Mazourka, 40; these three are by Wollenhaupt, and are beautiful compositions. Faribol, 35; La Gaillarde, 40; these are two exquisite Morceaus de Genre, by Theo. Hagen. Revere, by the same, 50 cents; a brilliant and beautitnl composition. Polka Gracieuse, by W. Mason, 12 pages, GO cents, a splendid composition.
Skating Quadrille, by Vaas, with moonlight skating scene, a beautiful and seasonable piece, 50 cents.
Enchantress Scbottische, by Vaas, embellished with brilliantly colored title page, 50 cents. Boot and Cady publishers.
Colonel Ellsworth's Galopade, with portrait. Price 50 cents. H. P. Danks, publisher, Cleveland.
Tom, If Ton Love Me, Say So. A lively, saucy ballad by Mr. Danks, sung with great success by Osslan E. Dodge. 25 cents.
Meet Me Beneath the Willow, same composer. 23 cents.
This Is the finest list we have yet published. All orders and musical communications to be addressed to Philadelphia, to J. Stake Holloway.
SCIENCE OF DRESS-CUTTING.
Did any of our readers ever suffer the tortures of dreescuttlng by the old-fashioned method? Did they ever obtain possession, after long aud patient waiting, of a handsome and coveted pattern for a silk dress, and, putting themselves into the hands of a dress-maker in whom they had not entire confidence, submit to be pinned up in a newspaper, and, in terror and torture, gagged here and thore, under the pretence of being "cut out?" Doubtless they have, and must remember the cramped armhole, the flattened, compressed bust, the straight waist, without curve or line, which the self-satisfied modiste flattered herself was such an excellent "fit."
Some such experiences as these, and the conviction that scientific and mechanical rules could bo applied to the human figure with better chances of success than an uncertain and indefinite method, whose grace and beauty of form depended entirely on individual taste, originated Madame Demorest's model of ' "-'-"-cutting, a system which is founded absolutely on scientific principles, which Is as accurate and unfailing as the art of the photographer, which is easily comprehended by a child who knows its letters, and the signs of numerals can be adapted to all the changes and caprices of fashion, and enables any lady possessing a model to make her own dresses perfectly, without the trouble or necessity of "fitting," which always forms an insuperable obstacle. We will now proceed to give some very plain directions for the use of the model, premising that the first measure should be taken by some other person than the one for whom the dress is intended; the number of inches for shoulder, length and size of waist, etc., having been ascertained, can be used, of course, on all future occasions.
HOW TO USE THE MODEL.
Lay on the table a large sheet of stiff white or brown paper, and upon it lay the model; have ready a card or a slip of paper, and pencil; and then, taking a tape measure in the thumb and forefinger of your left hand, make the person to be measured stand straight up, with her back toward you.
Commence by placing the end of the tape at the bone of the neck, bringing It down under the right arm, closely, and round up over the top of the shoulder, until it meets at the same point where it begun.
Now mark down the number of inches, say twentyfour, for the shoulder.
Hold the tape to the same place again, and measure down the length of waist, allowing half an inch for what it will take up in making.
Mark that down, also, say fifteen and a half inches.
Now place the measure across the fullest part of the bust, drawing It round under the arms loosely, so as to give freedom to the chest, and allowing an inch for padding, if it is desirable.
Mark down the number of inches, say thirty-seven and a half, for the bust measure.
Last, take the measure tightly round the waist—most people like to feel the support of some slight compression there; and then mark down the number of inches, twenty-three for tho waist, and you will find yourself possessed of the following table:—
No. of inches.
1. Shoulder measure 24
2 Length of Waist M»f
3. Bast measure 37>£
4. Size round the Waist 23
This is an exact and well-proportioned measurement for a good-sized, full-developed person.
Now examine the model which lies on the sheet of paper bofore yon (the diagram which accompanies these instructions will answer just as well for the purposes of illustration), and note the figures, which commence at 20, as the smallest size, and 31, which is set down as the largost. With the pencil make a dot through the holes in the chart on the paper, at each number, marked twenty-four, and also at the bottom of the back, through the hole left for that purpose. These dots will carry you across the lines for the neck, shoulders, arm-size, and arm-seam, as indicated in the engraving ; then, with
your tape measure ascertaining the accurate length of waist, yon may draw a straight line across, and the back part of the body is sufficiently defined to cut out a correct paper pattern. You may draw lines from dot to dot, to enable you to cut it more accurately, as indicated in the following engraving:—
way to do it is to double the bust measure (37% inches), and take off the measure of the back from one-half, then lay the balance across the bust, and draw the line straight down. To get the length of the waist, rest the pencil on the point under the arm, and sweep a Hue round, to the highest point on the shoulder; this will make a straight waist; if it requires to be pointed, drnw the line to the middle hole in the neck of the chart, between the shoulder and the front, and if it wants to be very deeply pointed, to -the lowest hole in the neck, directly in front.
To find out the quantity to be taken up In gores, take half the waist measure, subtract from it the size across the back, and take up the difference in the gores or "dart" seams. If the waist is slender, divide the surplus into three darts, if not, two will be sufficient. The first dart should be about one inch and a quarter from tho line of the front, at a slope of two and a half inches. Get tho size of the second dart seam, and then draw a line parallel between the first and second, three-quarters
It will be seen that the pattern allows for no turnings in, the size of these being left optional with the individual, who can allow more or less, as she pleases, in cutting out the lining.
The models of Dress-cutting, with full instructions, are furnished at $1 each, or (6 per dozen; and are sent by mail, postage free, on receipt of price. For which address Madame Demorest, 473 Broadway, New York.
In some future number we propose to furnish full directions for cutting children's dresses by Madame Demorest's children's dress chart.
We commence, in this number, " Eastern Rambles and Reminiscences," with engravings. The portion now given Is particularly Interesting, as it contains "The Ground Plan of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem." This series of articles we commend to our readers.
Messrs. J. E. Tiltox A Co., Boston, publish the following choice card photographs :—
A new copy from the original painting of T. Buchanan Read, Esq., of Prof. Longfellow's children, in card form, for the album.
Also photographs of Darley's celebrated painting of "The Courtship of Miles Standish." Also,
Whlttier's "Barefoot Boy," and Miss H. F. Gould's "Little Match Girl," companion pictures, painted by C. Swafn.
Also the popular pictures of Barry's " Rector's Ward,'*
Also a great variety of popular subjects, Inclnding all distinguished persons, American and European. They will send a list, if requested, and mail selected photographs for 25 cents each, post paid.
They manufacture a very nice album for the carte de vieite, some fifty styles, of improved patterns, which they claim to be the best and cheapest in the market.
Rev. Edward C. Jours.—We have received the Thirteenth Annual Report of this gentleman, which gives & detailed account of his ministerial labors as Chaplain of the Insane Hospital, at Blockley. Mr. Jones is engaged In a truly landable work, and has devoted his best energies for years to the amelioration of the suffering class to whom Providence has measured out the bitter allotment of mental disease. We hope his faithfulness will be rewarded by the sympathy and the substantial cooperation of our citizens, and that he may be so sustal ned as to feel encouraged to devote the rest of his life to a work In which he has been hitherto successful in a high degree.
A CHARADE IN THREE ACTS.—HUMBUG.
Hoys. Felix Lb Bom, a virtuoso.
Scehb, a Parlor. Enter JosephIsB and Isabellb.
Isabelle. Well, Josey, what great secret Is it that 70a would impart to me?
Josephine. No secret at all, my dear cousin; it lay a mere piece of harmless deception which I have concerted in honor of this great day.
Isabelle. What great day, Miss Mischief?
Josephine. And do you pretend, Miss Serious, not to know that this is the First of April, or, as the children call it, "April Fool's Day."
Isabelle. True enough! I had forgotten; and what atrocity are you about to perpetrate in its honor?
Josephine. "Lend a serious hearing," as Shakespeare says, and I will enlighten you. You have heard of, and perhaps seen, that curious old Frenchman who lives in the stone house about a mile from here.
Isabelle. Yon mean Mr. Le Bon.
Josephine. Precisely! Well, I intend to make Mr. La Bon the subject of a joke. Isabelte. In what way?
Josephine. In this: You know he is what Is styled a philosopher, a curiosity hunter, a geologist, a botanist, a—in fact, all that sort of that. Now I am going to invite him over here to examine a strange and unknown animal—a sort of diminutive "what is it."
Isabelle. And where will you be able to obtain such an animal?
Josephine. You silly goose! I intend that Mr. Mute shall make it. Don't you see the point of the joke?
Isabelle. Clearly! But don't you think it a piece of unwarrantable cruelty to make an old man walk the distance of a mile simply to be made a fool of?
Josephine. Notatall! He never stirs out of the house, so that a little exercise will do him no harm.
Isabelle. Perhaps not. But how will you manage to get him here?
Josephine. Oh, I '11 send Mr. Mute to ask him overt
Isabelle. Mr. Mute! ha! ha! ha! Why, I never know Mr. Mute to say over three words at a time. He'll never do!
Josephine. True! Poor Mule seldom can journey beyond Yes, No, and Hum.
Isabelle. Yes, hum is a favorite word with him. (Both laugh,)
Josephine. Poor Mute! 'tis too bad to laugh at him. Though his tongue never does run away with him he has the best heart in the world. I don't know what I should do without him. He runs all my errands, and does whatever I tell him. Poor Mute! But I am afraid 1 '11 be obliged to send the Frenchman a note.
IsabelI!t-. That would be the better way. Write a note, and Mute can take it. ~~
Josephine. n I wonder where he is. (Calling.) Mr. Mute? Mr. Mute?
Mute (oittsitie). Ho—ha—hum. (To be spoken as though clearing the throat.) (Enter Mute )
Josephine. Mr. Mute, will you carry a letter for me?
Mute. Yes. Ho—ha—hum.
Josephine. You know where Mr. Lo Bon lives?
Mute. Yes. Ho—ha—hum.
Josephine. All right so far. Now, Bella, assist me to compose a suitable note. Here are pens, ink, and paper. (They sit at table.) You don't mind waiting a few minutes, do you, Mr. Mute?
Mute. No. Ho—ha—hum.
Josephine, Then, Bella, we '11 commence.
Scene—A Stutlia. Dried reptiles, birds, and other curiosities hanging up and lying around. Books on ta'tle and fUmr. Lb Boi t seated in a large chair reading a ponderous volume, He wears a long dressing-gown.
Le w (taking off his spectacles and yawning.) Je suis fatlguit! 1 am ver veaty. I have read zo mercy Anglais sat I am zick in ma head. Vat for icy write ae books in 10 Anglais? 'Tis zo stoopead as I know not which. It grinds ze ear like se rusty key in ze lock. Oh, 'tis no like ze langue Francais. (.1 Unvd knockatthe door.) Eh! Who knocks at ma door? I want nothing. (Another a... Stop zat rap rap I I can no link if zo you do! (Another knock.) Grand Dien! I shall have no zo door to ma room if it is always rap rap. (Another t Parblen! I shall go mat. Vero is ma baton! Now—(takes stick, rises and opens door. Enter Mide. Le Bon seizes him, gives him a shaking, and threatens him with the stick.)
Le Bon. Vat for you rap rap at ma door, you rascalo?
Mute. Letter. Ho—ha—hum.
Le Bnn (taking Vie letter). Ah! Vy you no put him unzer zo door? (Opens letter.) Let me look. (Reads.)
Mr. Le Bos—Dear Sir: I have now in my possession a rare and curious specimen of a bug, which I am desirous of having you examine. Please cut this afternoon, and believe me to be Yours, etc.,
Eh! a strange a bug. Say, you man, vat la like?
I*. Bon. Did you no zee it?
a Bon. a zangulalre man I nevare tee! You go.
/' Bon. Go to ze debel vlz your ho—ha—hum. (Exit Mute.) He go. Now zis bug; vat is him? She give no description, zo I can no tell. Strange bug! I must zee' I must have him! By gar! she no geeve me him, I shall steal. I must got Oa est mou chapeauf Ah, I zeo! Now mon habit est mon baton. Ver good! now I go. O cat grand bug! (Puts on his coat and hat and exits.)
ACT III —HUMBUG.
Scbkb—a Parlor. Enter Josephirr and Isabelle
Isabelle. How does our joke progress?
Josephine. As well as we could desire it. Mute has just returned, and reports that the Frenchman will be here Immediately. I hope you are prepared to receive him?
Isabelle. O yes! only I much fear that I will not be able to preserve my gravity.
Josephine. But you must. To laugh In au improper moment would ruin all. But you haven't seen the bug yet; come and take a look at it t (Exennt.)
Enter Le Bob.
Le Bon. I am here. 'Twasvorgood I meet ze vaggon, or I voald have to valk zo far. I- thero no one? Ah, here comes Monsienr Hohahnm! (Enter Mute.) Vere is ze bug?
Mute. Don't know. Ho—ha—hum.
Le Bon. How, you don't know? You know noting! Tell somebody I come. (Exit Mule.) Great stoopeed man, Hohahum, bah!
(Enter Josephine and Isabelle.)
Josephine. My dear Mr. Le Bon, how can I thank you sufficiently for this visit?
Le Bon. How you do? You have ze bug?
Josephine, Pray be seated; you have walked some distance.
Le Bon. No, I ride. Can I zee ze bug?
Josephine. You don't look well; you stndy too much.
Le Bon. Na. I stoody ver little. Is zo bug—
Josephine. You see, Mr. Le Bon, we have asked you here—
Bon. To zee ze bug.
Josephine. For the purpose of examining —
Le Bon. Yes, ze bug.
Josephine. A singular curiosity.
Le Bon. Yes, I know, ze bug. Vere you got him?
Josephine. In an adjoining room. I shall now order it to be brought here. (Calls.) Mr. Mnte!
Enter Mute, with a wooden bug. Josephine (taking bug from Mute, and giving it to Le Bon). Here, sir, is the moat remarkable curiosity of the age.
Le Bon (putting on glasses). Eh! (Examines it carefully, then looks curiously from Josephine to Isabelle several times, they being hardly able to suppress their merriment.)
Josepliine, How do you like the bug, Mr. Le Bon?
Le Bon. Diablc! Zls is no real bug, zis is— zis is von infernale humbug. (All laugh loudly.)
Le Bon., Haw! you langh. Vat for is zis? You deceive a me! You make ze fool of me! By gar! vat you mean? (All laugh again.)
Le Bon. Eh! Mons. Hohahum, you laugh at me, you shackauapes! You rap rap at ma door, an' you laugh, eh! Take zat for your dena. (Seizes him by Ote collar and shakes him.)
Josepliine. Restrain your anger for a few minutes while I explain.
Le Bon. Veil, explain!
Josephine. You see, sir, this is All Fool's Day.
/,' Bon. Yos, I know; 'tis ze day for all ze fools like a yon, but 'i. - no ze day for ze vise men like a me!
Josephine. And we thought wo would amuse our* selves—
Le Bon. By making von fool, von humbug of me. You have explain enough. I hear no more. Oh, disgrace! made ze humbug of by ze girls; evei ybody laugh at me, I shall die. (Rushes out.)
Isabelle. Poor fellow! he take-s it very much to heart.
Josephine. Yes, he does not appear to relish the idea of having been mado a humbug.
JOSBPBINE. MCTB. Isabelle.
Postage Oh The Ladt's Boob —Postage for three months, if paid in advance at the office where it is received, four and a half cents.
The soles are simply wadded and quilted; the fronts and heels are embroidered. The former have a double row of herring-bone all round them, and a small flower worked In satin-stich in the centre. The heels are merely herring-boned all round.
As these shoes come up very high on the ankle, they are extremely suitable for cold weather. Another very pretty baby's boot may be made of chamois leather, and decorated with beads. It is cut entirely in one piece, sewed up the front, and gathered in rather at the toe. Many colored beads should trim It, in imitation of the American Indian moeeason.
Cut out two rounds of pinked glazed calico, as largo as you require, In the middle of which cut a small round hole, the size of a scent bottle, or small tumbler to hold flowers. Cut off a strip of the same, large enough to go round the outside, and the depth you require; then cnt another shorter strip to go inside the small, round hole in the middle. Take one of the two rounds, and sew tho longest strip to it on the outside, the two ends together; then sew on the shorter strip round the small hole in the centre, doing the same with the ends as already described. Take the other round and sew it on to the little strip, doing It on the wrong side; then sew the outer part to the long strip on the right side, leaving enough open to put in the bran. Having procured thiR, put it in the h-tle which is left, and fill it up as far as possible, them sew over the bole ; make a cover for this in lace, cutting out one round, the long strip and short one, and sew them together as already described. Put on some lace outside, aad some narrow quilled ribbon round the bottom of the pincushion, and at the top of the lace, also round the email hole in the middle, in which you can place a small smelling bottle, or a tumbler with flowors in.
Blitz At The Academy. — The
complimentary benefit to Blitz, the king of conjurers, brought into the Academy of Music more persons than ever before graced that edifice. The house was crowded, the aisles were all full, and woyunderstand that two thousand persons did not succeed in getting an entrance into the building. The performance went off well, and Blitz has reason to be prond of the vis-i array of bis friends who greeted him on that happy evening.
Coal Oils.—We have received a very interesting letterfrom Delphi, describing the death of Mrs. Elizabeth M Bowman. She was burned to death by the explosion of a coatoil lamp. The writer wishes ns to make the fact known as a cantion to those who use tho coal oil. We have, for many months past, pointed out to our subscribers the danger of using these inflammable oils. We could fill a column with notices of those who have met their deaths by the explosion of kerosene and other coal oil lamps. The establishments of several of the proprietors of coal oil works have been destroyed by their own intlammable materials. The Ffre-Warden of Philadelphia has cautioned tho public against their use, and the insurance companies have issued a manifesto against them. But what Is the use of these cautions? Persons will go on using this oil, each one supposing that, of course, no accident can happen to them. Our informant also asks information how to render dresses incombustible? We have repeatedly furnished this necessary information.
Head Ctrsmons.—About a year since we published the first pattern given in this country of a bead cushion. Now hardly a house can be fonnd that does not contain one or more of these useful articles. This shows how wide spread is the Influence of the Lady's Book.
Pewhy Wise And Pousd Foolish.—Our terms are four copies for seven dollars. Some person, to *'try it on," sent us six dollars for four copies, with orders to return the money if we would not send tho Book on those terms. We did return it, and the money was stolen from the mail Now how much was made by that transaction. Our terms are low, bat they are positive.
TnESE designs are presented to show how much convenience may be obtained in the least possible space, and also to show how mnch more economical is the square than the parallelogram as a form for the small cottage.
The two elevations it will be seen represent ditferent designs of the same house—one quite plain, the other more ornamental. The Internal arrangements are quite simple; the first floor containing four rooms, of which the living-room, B, is 11 by 20 feet. Tho other rooms, a parlor C, dining-room D, and kitchen E, are respectively 14 by 16, 14 by 16, and 10 by 12 feet.
The second floor contains four well lighted and well arranged chambers.