G A SUBURBAN VILLA. Designed expressly for Godey's Lady's Book by SAMUEL SLOAN, Architect, Philadelphia. Through a fine vestibule, 15 feet square, marked A, you enter the dwelling, and from the stair hall, K, enter the drawing-room, B, which is 20 by 40 feet. We have four other rooms on the first floor, all well supplied The second floor contains six fine chambers marked N, R is the bath-room, and P additional bed-rooms. A FRENCHMAN meeting an English soldier with a Waterloo medal, began sneeringly to speak of the meanness of the British Government in bestowing a medal which did not cost threepence. "True," said the Englishman, "it cost us but threepence; but it cost France a Napoleon." A LIST OF ARTICLES WE CAN SUPPLY. GODEY'S Bijou Needle-Case, containing 100 very superior Diamond Drilled Eyed Needles. Price 25 cents, and one three cent stamp to pay postage, except to California, Oregon, or the British Provinces; for either of these places a ten cent stamp must be sent. Godey's Pattern-Book of Embroideries. Price 25 cents. Fresh Fruits all the year round, at Summer Prices, and how you may get them. Price 12 cents. Every Lady her own Shoemaker. With diagrams. Price 50 cents. Thirty of the most approved Receipts for Summer Beverages. Price 12 cents. Gallery of Splendid Engravings, from Pictures by the first Masters. Price 50 cents each; four numbers now ready. Mrs. Hale's 4545 Receipts for the Million. Price $1 25. Godey's Curl Clasps. Twelve in a box. Nos. 1, 2, and 3. Price 75 cents, which covers the postage, except to California, Oregon, or the British Provinces. The price to cover postage to either of these places is, on No. 1, $1 20; on No. 2, $1 30; on No. 3, $1 50. Godey's Hair Crimpers. Each box contains twelve, of various sizes. Price 75 cents a box, which covers the postage, except to California, Oregon, or the British Provinces. The price to cover postage to either of these places is $1 20. Godey's Copying Paper, for copying Patterns of Embroidery, etc. Each package contains several colors. Price 25 cents. A ten cent stamp will be required to prepay postage on this to California, Oregon, or the British Provinces. Patent Needle Threaders. A valuable article. Price 25 cents. Indestructible Pleasure Books for Children, with colored plates, printed on muslin, and cannot be torn. Price 25 cents each. Mrs. Stephens's Crochet Book. Price 75 cents. The Song Bird Fancier. Every lady who keeps birds should have this useful book. Price 25 cents. The Ladies' Manual of Fancy Work, by Mrs. Pullen. Price $1 25. THE following epitaph has been noticed in Pourhyn Churchyard, North Wales, and shows that the people in the neighborhood have a good notion of consuming their own smoke: Here lies William Smith. And, what is something rarish, He was born, bred, and Hang'd in this parish. A LETTER from Victoria complains of a want of domestic servants there. The writer says: "The other day a lady, finding her servant sitting over the drawingroom fire reading a book, said, 'Mary, your rooms are not done; go and get them ready as soon as you can.' They ain't done, ain't they?' was the reply; 'then I guess if you want 'em done you must go and do 'em yourself, for I ain't a-going to rise till I have finished this book."" on. A WESTERN OBITUARY NOTICE.-Mister Edatur: Jem bangs, we are sorry to stait, has deseized. He departed this Life last mundy. Jem was generally considered a gude feller. He died at the age of twenty-three years old. He went 4th without any struggle; and sich is Life. Jem kept a nice stoar, which his wife now waits His virchews was numerous to behold. Many is the things we bot at his grocerry, and we are happy to state to the admirin' world that he never cheeted, especially in the wate of makrel, which was nice and sweet, and his surviving wife is the same wa. We never knew him to put sand in his sugar, tho he had a big sand bar in front of his hous; nor water in his Lickuris, tho the Ohio River runs past his dore. Pece to his remaines. He leves a wife, 8 children, a cow, 4 horses, a growcery stoar, and quadrupets, to morn his loss; but in the splendid langwidge of the poit, his loss is there eternal gane. POSTAGE ON THE LADY'S BOOK.-Postage for three months, if paid in advance at the office where it is received, four and a half cents. PHILADELPHIA AGENCY. No order attended to unless the cash accompanies it. All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage. Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks. R. J. S.-Sent patterns, etc. by American express March 20th. Mrs. J. W. T.-Sent patterns, etc. 20th. Mrs. I. W. S.-Sent pattern for jacket 28th. Miss S. M.-Sent hair cross and bracelet 2d. Mrs. A. M.-Sent braiding pattern for slipper 4th. Mrs. I. M. J.-Sent hair cross and ring 7th. W. F. G.-Sent hair ring 11th. Miss M. A. W.-Sent bonnets, etc. by Adams's express 14th. Mrs. L. G. O.-Sent jet shawl pin, bracelet, and sleeve buttons, 17th. A. S. V.-When an engagement is broken off, it is usual to return the letters, presents, etc., mutually exchanged. A Subscriber.-Leaves for Piano Candle Wreath cost $2 per gross. Orné balls from $1 25 to $5 a piece. J. A. C.-The game appears to be too intricate. Something more simple would answer better. Miss W. L. B-For the twentieth time we answer your question. On the left side. Eunice. You have no right to answer any such ques tion. Mary B.-Yes; by a proper introduction. Chemistry for the Young. LESSON XXI. The Terrigenous Metals. SUBSTANCES REQUIRED. 483. BARYTA; lime; strontia; chalk; alum; magnesia; liquor potassæ; filter paper; alcohol. You 484. Since Lesson XVI. we have not concerned ourselves with an examination of the metals. It will be remembered that we concluded that lesson with a general summary of the properties of calcigenous metals. had better reconsider that summary before commencing an examination of the second class of metals in our division-namely, the terrigenous metals. When engaged with our former metals-the calcigenous ones-we generally managed to procure a sample of each metal operated upon, in its evident or metallic state. This we cannot do as regards the class about to be treated of. metallic properties, although well-established, are not readily demonstrated. It is only, therefore, by the force of a certain mental abstraction, that you will be able to consider the bodies about to be examined as metallic compounds. Their 485. The chief earthy or terrigenous metals are as follows: Calcium, the oxide of which is lime Barium, baryta Strontium strontia 46 Aluminum 46 magnesia alumina Alkaline earths. There are several others, but the foregoing are all that we shall examine. After what we have stated respecting these metals, you will not expect to have them introWe must be content duced under their metallic form. with examining their compounds. Looking at the tabular arrangement above, you will observe that lime, baryta, strontia, and magnesia are represented as alkaline earths, whilst alumina does not come under that category. We will now consider the alkaline earths, leaving alumina until hereafter. 486. Regard the physical properties of the earth, and reflect on the propriety of designating the metals from which they are produced, terrigenous metals. Next effect a saturated solution of each of these with some acids -say the acetic or the hydrochloric: that is to say, add to the acid more of each of these substances than the acid can dissolve, and filter the solution so as to obtain it clear. 487. Remark with what facility lime, baryta, strontia, and magnesia dissolve. Divide each of the solutions into five parts. Test these parts respectively with (1) hydrosulphuric acid; (2), hydrosulphate of ammonia; (3), ferrocyanide of potassium. If the solutions be pure, not the slightest precipitate or other change will be observable; whereas, of the metals already discussed, i. e., the calcigenous metals, their solutions all yield a precipitate with one or all of the tests mentioned. 488. Test the fourth portion of each metallic solution with solution of carbonate of potash, of soda, or ammonia, and remark that in either case a white precipitate results. Terrigenous metals, therefore, 1. Do not yield a precipitate with hydrosulphuric acid, or hydrosulphate of ammonia, or ferrocyanide of potassium. 2. Do yield a precipitate with a carbonated alkali. 489. Take a little powdered lime, or baryta, or strontia, or magnesia, put it upon a slip of yellow turmeric paper moistened with water, and remark how the paper becomes tinged brown, thus demonstrating the earths in question to be endowed with alkaline qualities. 490. Dip a piece of clean thread into each of the solutions, dry the threads; when dry, immerse their extremities in the well of melted tallow or wax surrounding a candle-wick, plunge the extremities respectively into the faint halo of flame which limits the combustion of a candle. Remark how, in each case, the flame is tinged of a different color. The lime solution tinges it orangecolored, the baryta solution green, the strontia solution As for the magnesia, the color which it produces is not very distinctive. red. 491. Hitherto all the terrigenous compounds we have examined have been found endowed with nearly the same qualities. It is true, by means of a difference in their flame, we might have distinguished baryta, strontia, and lime amongst themselves; but we have not as yet seen any quality which can be turned to account in analysis. 492. Take the fifth and remaining portions of solutions of earths in hydrochloric acid, which may either be called hydrochlorate of baryta, strontia, etc.; or chloride of barium, strontium, etc.; either would be correct; whether the result of solution of a metal in hydrochloric acid be a chloride of the metal, or a hydrochlorate of the oxide of the metal, involves a theory unnecessary to discuss here (228); add to each very carefully oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid), diluted with five or six parts, by measure, of water, in order to render it more manageIn able than it would be else, and observe the result. each solution, except that of magnesia, we have a white precipitate, but not to an equal extent. However weak may be the solution of baryta-however much diluted the acid added-a precipitate, sulphate of baryta, will fall; this substance being totally insoluble in water. Strontia solutions yield a precipitate with sulphuric acid nearly as insoluble, but not quite. Lime solutions may not, if very much diluted, yield any precipitate; but even from these, if alcohol be added (182), a precipitate will fall. Try the experiment. Fashions. NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS. HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelops, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets, will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given. Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq. No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting. The Publisher of the Lady's Book has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of the transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the Lady's Book, the Fashion editor does not know. Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Dress goods from Evans & Co.'s; mourning goods from Besson & Son; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from the most celebrated establishments; jewelry from Wriggens & Warden, or Caldwell's, Philadelphia. When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final. DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION-PLATE FOR JUNE. Fig. 1.-Costume for a watering-place, and suitable for half mourning. Black French grenadine dress, made over black silk. White piqué sacque, bound with braid, and trimmed with braid and buttons. Standing collar, with black silk neck-tie. Low-crowned Leghorn hat, bound with black velvet, and decorated with a black velvet bow and black plume. Fig. 2.-Dinner-dress. Dress of Satin de Mai, made over a thin blue silk. The skirt is edged with a band of blue silk, and trimmed with ruches of blue and white silk, sewed on in points. The body is full, with straight waist, blue belt, and clasp. The sleeves consist of a full plaited jockey; the long sleeves are of white muslin. Hat of mixed chip and straw, decorated with a blue rosette and light fancy feather. Fig. 3.-Costume suitable for a young lady. Pink grenadine dress, with Pompadour corsage and muslin chemisette, with full muslin ruff round the throat. The corsage is trimmed with a box-plaiting of pink silk, which trimming is also placed just above the hem of the skirt. The sash is wide pink ribbon, with fringed ends. Fig. 4.-Green Empress cloth riding habit; black straw Tudor hat, with white plume; white gloves, with black gauntlets. Fig. 5.-Walking costume. White grenadine dress, with embroidered figure; corsage plain; skirt trimmed with five box-plaited flounces bound on each edge with purple silk. Scarf mantle of the same material, and trimmed to match the skirt. Fancy straw hat, trimmed with ribbons and a long white plume. now of less ample proportions, has given room for a great variety of new fashions, especially in sacks. The one we illustrate is purposed for dress; its elaborate ornament of fluted or plaited flounces and frills, with their neat passementeries, will doubtless render its showy character attractive for this purpose. For morning or undress, the plainer modes, with but little trimming, are also desirable. It is scarcely possible to conceive of anything in the sack form which may not be worn this season as the fashion. CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADEL WITH the warmth and sunshine, New York and Philadelphia begin to show a goodly number of elegant toilets, light and fresh in color, and novel in design. Besides the check silks in every variety, of which we have spoken in a former Chat, are the Pompadour silks with light grounds, and others pearled all over with tiny specks of a totally distinct color from the ground, which give them a peculiar richness. At the establishment of T. W. Evans & Co., of Philadelphia, we were shown some new fabrics, Satin de Mai, much resembling a barège, but very silky and very pretty. These goods were in all colors, and many in the new color called cuir, or leather, just the color of unvarnished leather flowers. Some were entirely plain, and others barred with satin stripes and sprigged over with some bright color. We also saw the most exquisite grenadines, the grounds light, soft shades of mode, dotted over with a darker shade, which formed a peculiar chineé ground, and on this ground were thrown leaves and geometrical figures of the richest colors. In order to accommodate ladies wishing to have dresses made up in haste, they have at this establishment skirts and sleeves of dresses made up and trimmed in the most novel styles, so that a dress can be made up at very short notice. For dressy toilets, barège and grenadine are the predominating tissues. Among the newest styles made up are the following: A dress of black barège, body low, with a Maintenon scarf of barège, edged with a ruching of sea-green silk. This scarf forms a bertha at the back, crosses very low in front, and turns back to fasten behind, where two long rounded ends hang down. The waist is pointed in front and round at the back; sleeves very short. The lower skirt is plain, the upper or tunic skirt is slashed in every breadth with long openings about half a yard in depth, cut straight, and bordered with green ruching. A very pretty street dress is of "capucin" brown grenadine. The body, sleeves, and front of skirt are decorated with a checquer work of narrow black velvet, having little knots of the velvet at the corners of the squares; the body is drawn lengthwise in puffs, and between each puff is a band of velvet; the sleeves are drawn like the body, made with an elbow, loose at the hand, and trimmed with a ruching of black lace and velvet bows. Another dress, of lavender barège, had narrow ruchings of lavender and green silk, sewed on in Grecian pattern round the bottom of the skirt and up each breadth for about three-quarters of a yard. The body high, with a Medicis waistband, made of lavender silk, trimmed with green ruchings and braided with green braid; the sleeves trimmed with a frill and raised by two bows. For young ladies low-necked waists will be most fashionable, and of illusion waists, w puffed, and finishe illusion. Waistban. ese will be worn thin muslin or ng sleeves, delicately tucked or he waist and neck by a ruche of will also be worn with these bodies. Another pretty style is to have a light barège or grenadine skirt, a muslin body, and over this a silk body the color of the skirt, or a velvet one made much like the waistband, only deeper, pointed in front, both top and bottom, or square at the top, and with little shoulder straps. The white bodies are trimmed with ribbons, velvet chenille, braid, etc., and are made in a great valety of styles. Mc ag-dresses are made with Zouave jackets and Ga di shirts; but the most fashionable are of the style of Louis XV., also called the Marquise, of which we have given designs in the Book. We particularly admired one of a violet checked silk, lined with applegreen, and trimmed with green ruchings. This robe descends behind in graceful folds, the fulness being set in at the neckpiece in flat plaits. Each side of the open front is edged with a revers, bordered with a ruching of green silk. The revers diminish in width as they ascend to the waist; from thence they augment in width, and are carried round the back, and form a square collar. The sleeves are made with an elbow, and are finished by a cuff trimmed with a ruching. The costumes of the season are noted for their fulness; many of the dresses are pointed before and behind; but the many beautiful waistbands and zones cause the round bodies to be the favorites, especially with the young la dies. Long sleeves have no particular form, but are varied according to the fancy of the wearer or dressmaker. Puffs and slashes are on some of the newest sleeves. At Madame Demorest's, in Fourteenth Street, we were shown some beautiful dresses; one, a rich black silk, having the bottom of the skirt waved, which we believe is a very old fashion revived; but, as it is quite pretty, will, we think, be adopted. Above the waving was a box-plaited flounce, two inches in width, also waved; and above that a guipure ruffle, three inches wide, also put on in waves. The body was plain, and the sleeves rather narrow, made with an elbow, and trimmed to match the skirt. The effect was very stylish. Another dress had one box-plaited ruffle at the bottom, about seven inches wide, and above that a very narrow box-plaited ruffle, which was run up on every seam, and between every seam for about half a yard; this, also, was very stylish. Another trimming is to have a box-plaited flounce, with velvet run in between the plaits. The box-plaits can be double if desired, and the trimming can hang as a flounce, or another row of velvet can be run in the lower edge of the flounce, and it can be sewed down on the dress. In order to form this trimming, the material must be cut and the velvet ribbon slipped in and run underneath the plaits. It is exceedingly pretty, and will be suitable for either thick or thin dresses. Silk flounces are being lined with crinoline, to make them stand out from the dress. Short sacques, mantles, and circles, as well as shawls of various kinds, are this season fashionable for out-door dress. Brodie has an admirable assortment of sacques, made of all materials, and trimmed in every conceivable way. We admired a black silk one, trimmed all round with a ruffle seven inches deep; half of this ruffle was box-plaited, and fastened with a drop button on every plait; the other half hung as a ruffle, and was edged with a narrow lace; this same trimming formed a bertha, and was on the sleeves. There were black silk halfshawls, with bands of silk and a narrow quilling stitched round them. Mantles of the shape of "The Almerian” in May number, but trimmed in different styles. An Among others was an ample pardessus of black silk, a kind of blouse, rather low in the neck, with a bertha of guipure, bordered by a fancy silk trimming. It had openings for the arms, covered by a broad band of guipure, terminating in a fancy trimming of tassels. other style has a narrow collar entirely formed of small black plaitings, pinked at the edge, in the midst of which appears a row of lozenges of mauve silk. Some of the mantles are trimmed by guipure insertions on white silk. There seems to be nothing new as yet for black lace | mantles. Lace points, which are always fashionable, will be much worn. Muslin mantles and shawls, trimmed with insertion and very narrow gauffered ruffles, will be very fashionable, also white and black grenadine shawls, hemmed and braided in Grecian pattern, with a large corner piece, or else trimmed with ruffles. We have also noticed some very pretty summer shawls, checked black and white, with fancy-colored borders Silk shawls, trimmed with black lace and fringe, are among the new styles. Some of the half-shawls are surmounted by a little pointed shawl, presenting crossed insertions and a point entirely of guipure, and round the shawl are flounces of rich guipure lace and bows of black ribbon. This latter is one of the most distingué styles. Although we gave quite a lengthy description of hats in our last number, yet, as they have become one of the indispensable elements of a summer toilet, we will mention a few others. One of the latest, equally appropriate for ladies and children, is the boat-shaped sailor's hat, with two ribbons hanging down behind, embroidered with gold anchors. The Amelia, Mignon, Russian Cap, Cuba, Newport, Amazon, and others at first adopted by very young persons, will be worn at watering-places by persons of all ages and physiognomies. Among the new riding-hats we notice an English one, bell-shaped, with wide brims, slightly turned down, bordered with velvet, decorated with a velvet bow and a long feather tassel at the side. An Andalusian, with velvet brims, and trimmed with an aigrette and Magenta velvet ribbon in front, sewed on as in the headdress of Fig. 2, May number. For children we notice Spanish hats, trimmed with bunches of cherries; Garibaldi bats, with floods of loops behind and frizzed feathers in front. The Bébé hat, bordered with violet velvet, three rows of it round the erown, white and violet feathers in front and a velvet rosette at the side. Crinoline caps, trimmed with fancy colored velvets, are also worn. The tips of peacocks' feathers, worn in hats, make a graceful and pleasing variety. For the seaside broad-brim water-proof hats, with gay bindings, are being made. We find white and black, the most distingué of all combinations, blended in all parts of the toilet. It is found even in walking shoes, which are black stitched with white. Boots to match the dress are in good taste, also kid boots, with rosettes in front. Kid gloves, embroidered with a different color on the back, and black ones, embroidered with gold, form a suitable complement to an elegant toilet. The new gloves have come out in brighter and richer shades than we have ever before seen. Cuir, Magenta, deep green, and mauve are among the new tints, but light gloves will also be much worn. FASHION. |