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picturesquely situated. The railway terminus at Bandarawella | sojourn at Berlin he was invited by his old teacher Burdach, who

is 18 m. from Badulla. Tea is cultivated by the planters, and rice, fruit and vegetables by the natives in the district. BAEDEKER, KARL (1801–1859), German publisher, was born at Essen on the 3rd of November 1801. His father had a printing establishment and book-shop there, and Karl followed the same business independently in Coblenz. Here he began to issue the first of the series of guide-books with, which his name is associated. They followed the model of the English series instituted by John Murray, but developed in the course of years so as to cover the greater part of the civilized world, and later were issued in English and French as well as German. Baedeker's son Fritz carried on the business, which in 1872 was transferred to Leipzig. BAEHR, JOHANN CHRISTIAN FELIX (1798-1872), German philologist was born at Darmstadt on the 13th of June 1798. He studied at the university of Heidelberg where he was appointed professor of classical philology in 1823, chief librarian in 1837, and on the retirement of GF. Creuzer became director of the philological seminary. He died at Heidelberg on the 29th of November 1872. His earliest works were editions of Plutarch's Alcibiades (1822), Philopoemen, Flamininus, Pyrrhus (1826), the fragments of Ctesias (1824), and Herodotus (1830-1835, 18551862). But most important of all were his works on Roman litera-sponding stages" in the development of vertebrate embryos was ture and humanistic studies in the middle ages: Geschichte der römischen Litteratur (4th ed., 1868-1870), and the supplementary volumes, Die christlichen Dichter und Geschichtschreiber Roms (2nd ed., 1872), Die christlich-römische Theologie (1837), Geschichte der römischen Litteratur im karolingischen Zeitalter (1840).

BAEL FRUIT (Aegle marmelos). Acgle is a genus of the botanical natural order Rutaceae, containing two species in tropical Asia and one in west tropical Africa. The plants are trees bearing strong spines, with alternate, compound leaves each with three leaflets and panicles of sweet-scented white flowers. Aegle marmelos, the bael- or bel-fruit tree (also known as Bengal quince), is found wild or cultivated throughout India. The tree is valued for its fruit, which is oblong to pyriform in shape, 2-5 in. in diameter, and has a grey or yellow rind and a sweet, thick orange-coloured pulp. The unripe fruit is cut up in slices, sun-dried and used as an astringent; the ripe fruit is described as sweet, aromatic and cooling. The wood is yellowishwhite, and hard but not durable. The name Aegle is from one of the Hesperides, in reference to the golden fruit, marmelos is Portuguese for quince.

BAENA, a town of southern Spain, in the province of Cordova; 32 m. by road S.E. of the city of Cordova. Pop. (1900) 14,539. Baena is picturesquely situated near the river Marbella, on the slope of a hill crowned with a castle, which formerly belonged to the famous captain Gonzalo de Cordova. Farming, horsebreeding, linen-weaving and the manufacture of olive-oil are the chief local industries. The nearest railway station is Luque (pop. 4972), 4 m. S. E. on the Jaén-Lucena line. The site of the Roman town (Bahiana or Biniana) can still be traced, and various Roman antiquities have been disinterred. In 1292 the Moors under Mahommed II. of Granada vainly besieged Baena, which was held for Sancho IV. of Castile, and the five Moorish heads in its coat-of-arms commemorate the defence.

BAER, KARL ERNST VON (1792-1876), German biologist, was born at Piep, in Esthonia, on the 29th of February 1792. His father, a small landowner, sent him to school at Reval, which he left in his eighteenth year to study medicine at Dorpat University. The lectures of K. F. Burdach (1776-1847) suggested research in the wider field of life-history, and as at that time Germany offered more facilities for, and greater encouragement to, scientific work, von Baer went to Würzburg, where J. I. J Döllinger (1770-1841), father of the Catholic theologian, was professor of anatomy. In teaching von Baer, Döllinger gave a direction to his studies which secured his future pre-eminence in the science of organic development. He collaborated with C. H. Pander (1794-1865) in researches on the evolution of the chick, the results of which were first published in Burdach's treatise on physiology. Continuing his investigations alone von Baer extended them to the evolution of organisms generally, and after a

had become professor of anatomy at Königsberg, to join him as
prosector and chief of the new zoological museum (1817). Von
Baer's great discovery of the human ovum is the subject of his
Epistola de Ovo Mammalium et Hominis Genesi (Leipzig, 1827),
and in the following year he published the first part of his History
of the Evolution of Animals (Ueber die Entwickelungsgeschichte der
Thiere), the second part following in 1837. In this work he
demonstrated first, that the Graafian follicles in the ovary are not
the actual eggs, but that they contain the spherical vesicle, which
is the true ovum, a body about the one hundred and twentieth of
an inch in diameter, wherein lie the properties transmitting the
physical and mental characteristics of the parent or grandparent,
or even of more remote ancestors. He next showed that in all
vertebrates the primary stage of cleavage of the fertilized egg is
followed by modification into leaf-like germ layers-skin, muscular,
vascular and mucous-whence arise the several organs of the
body by differentiation. He further discovered the gelatinous,
cylindrical cord, known as the chorda dorsalis, which passes along
the body of the embryo of vertebrates, in the lower types of which
it is limited to the entire inner skeleton, while in the higher the
backbone and skull are developed round it. His "law of corre-
exemplified in the fact recorded by him about certain specimens
preserved in spirit which he had omitted to label. "I am quite
unable to say to what class they belong. They may be lizards,
or small birds, or very young mammalia, so complete is the
similarity in the mode of formation of the head and trunk in these
animals. The extremities are still absent, but even if they had
existed in the earliest stage of the development we should learn
nothing, because all arise from the same fundamental form."
Again, in his History of Evolution he suggests, "Are not all animals
in the beginning of their development essentially alike, and is
there not a primary form common to all ?" (i. p. 223) Notwith-
standing this, the " telic " idea, with the archetypal theory which
it involved, possessed von Baer to the end of his life, and explains
his inability to accept the theory of unbroken descent with
modification when it was propounded by Charles Darwin and
A. R. Wallace in 1858. The influence of von Baer's discoveries
has been far-reaching and abiding. Not only was he the pioneer
in that branch of biological science to which Francis Balfour,
gathering up the labours of many fellow-workers, gave coherence
in his Comparative Embryology (1881), but the impetus to T: H.
Huxley's researches on the structure of the medusae came from
him (Life, i. 163), and Herbert Spencer found in von Baer's " law
of development " the "law of all development " (Essays, i. 30)
In 1834 von Baer was appointed librarian of the Academy of
Sciences of St Petersburg. In 1835 he published his Development
of Fishes, and as the result of collection of all available informa-
tion concerning the fauna and flora of the Polar regions of the
empire, he was appointed leader of an Arctic expedition in 1837
The remainder of his active life was occupied in divers fields of
research, geological as well as biological, an outcome of the latter
being his fine monograph on the fishes of the Baltic and Caspian
Seas. One of the last works from his prolific pen was an interest-
ing autobiography published at the expense of the Esthonian
nobles on the celebration of the jubilee of his doctorate in 1864.
Three years afterwards he received the Copley medal. He died
at Dorpat on the 28th of November 1876.
(E. CL.)

BAER, WILLIAM JACOB (1860- ), American painter, was
born on the 29th of January 1860 in Cincinnati, Ohio. He studied
at Munich in 1880-1884. He had much to do with the revival in
America of the art of miniature-painting, to which he turned in
1892, and was the first president of the Society of Painters in
Miniature, New York. Among his miniatures are
"The Golden
Hour," Daphne," "In Arcadia ” and "Madonna with the
Auburn Hair."

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BAETYLUS (Gr. βαίτυλος, βαιτύλιον), a word of Semitic origin (bethel) denoting a sacred stone, which was supposed to be endowed with life. These fetish objects of worship were meteoric stones, which were dedicated to the gods or revered as symbols of the gods themselves (Pliny, Nat. Hist. xvii. 9; Photius, Cod. 242).

In Greek mythology the term was specially applied to the stone supposed to have been swallowed by Cronus (who feared misfortune from his own children) in mistake for his infant son Zeus, for whom it had been substituted by Uranus and Gaea, his wife's parents (Etymologicum Magnum, s.v.). This stone was carefully preserved at Delphi, anointed with oil every day and on festal occasions covered with raw wool (Pausanias x. 24). In Phoenician mythology, one of the sons of Uranus is named Baetylus. Another famous stone was the effigy of Rhea Cybele, the holy stone of Pessinus, black and of irregular form, which was brought to Rome in 204 B.C. and placed in the mouth of the statue of the goddess. In some cases an attempt was made to give a more regular form to the original shapeless stone: thus Apollo Agyieus was represented by a conical pillar with pointed end, Zeus Meilichius in the form of a pyramid. Other famous baetylic idols were those in the temples of Zeus Casius at Seleucia, and of Zeus Teleios at Tegea. Even in the declining years of paganism, these idols still retained their significance, as is shown by the attacks upon them by ecclesiastical writers.

See Munter, Über die vom Himmel gefallenen Steine (1805); Bosigk, De Baetyliis (1854); and the exhaustive article by F. Lenormant in Daremberg and Saglio's Dictionary of Antiquities.

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BAEYER, JOHANN FRIEDRICH WILHELM ADOLF VON (1835- ), German chemist, was born at Berlin on the 31st of October 1835, his father being Johann Jacob von Baeyer (17941885), chief of the Berlin Geodetical Institute from 1870. He studied chemistry under R. W. Bunsen and F. A. Kekulé, and in 1858 took his degree as Ph.D. at Berlin, becoming privatdocent a few years afterwards and assistant professor in 1866. Five years later he was appointed professor of chemistry at Strassburg, and in 1875 he migrated in the same capacity to Munich. He devoted himself mainly to investigations in organic chemistry, and in particular to synthetical studies by the aid of "condensation reactions. The Royal Society of London awarded him the Davy medal in 1881 for his researches on indigo, the nature and composition of which he did more to elucidate than any other single chemist, and which he also succeeded in preparing artificially, though his methods were not found commercially practicable. To celebrate his seventieth birthday his scientific papers were collected and published in two volumes (Gesammelte Werke, Brunswick, 1905), and the names of the headings under which they are grouped give some idea of the range and extent of his chemical work:-(1) organic arsenic compounds, (2) uric acid group, (3) indigo, (4) papers arising from indigo researches, (5) pyrrol and pyridine bases, (6) experiments on the climination of water and on condensation, (7) the phthaleins, (8) the hydro-aromatic compounds, (9) the terpenes, (10) nitroso compounds, (11) furfurol, (12) acetylene compounds and “strain” (Spannungs) theory, (13) peroxides, (14) basic properties of oxygen, (1.5) dibenzalacetone and triphenylamine, (16) various researches on the aromatic and (17) the aliphatic series.

BAEZA (anc. Bealia), a town of southern Spain, in the province of Jaén, in the Loma de Ubeda, a mountain range between the river Guadalquiver on the S. and its tributary the Guadalimar on the N. Pop. (1900) 14,379 Baéza has a station 3 m. S.W on the Lináres-Almería railway Its chief buildings are those of the university (founded in 1533, and replaced by a theological seminary), the cathedral and the Franciscan monastery. The Cordova and Ubeda gates, and the arch of Baéza, are among the remains of its old fortifications, which were of great strength. The town has little trade except in farm-produce; but its red dye, made from the native cochineal, was formerly celebrated. In the middle ages Baeza was a flourishing Moorish city, said to contain 50,000 inhabitants; but it was sacked in 1239 by Ferdinand III. of Castile, who in 1248 transferred its bishopric to Jaén. It was the birthplace of the sculptor and painter, Gaspar Becarra.

BAFFIN, WILLIAM (1584-1622), English navigator and discoverer. Nothing is known of his early life, but it is conjectured that he was born in London of humble origin, and gradually raised himself by his diligence and perseverance. The earliest mention of his name occurs in 1612, in connexion with

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an expedition in search of a North-West Passage, under the orders of Captain James Hall, whom he accompanied as chief pilot. Captain Hall was murdered in a fight with the natives on the west coast of Greenland, and during the two following years Baffin served in the Spitsbergen whale-fishery, at that time controlled by the Muscovy Company. In 1615 he entered the service of the Company for the discovery of the North-West Passage, and accompanied Captain Robert Bylot as pilot of the little ship "Discovery," and now carefully examined Hudson Strait. The accuracy of Baffin's tidal and astronomical observations on this voyage was confirmed in a remarkable manner by Sir Edward Parry, when passing over the same ground, two centuries later (1821). In the following year Baffin again sailed as pilot of the "Discovery," and passing up Davis Strait discovered the fine bay to the north which now bears his name, together with the magnificent series of straits which radiate from its head and were named by him Lancaster, Smith and Jones Sounds, in honour of the generous patrons of his voyages. On this voyage he had sailed over 300 m. farther north than his predecessor Davis, and for 236 years his farthest north (about lat. 77° 45') remained unsurpassed in that sea. All hopes, however, seemed now ended of discovering a passage to India by this route, and in course of time even Baffin's discoveries came to be doubted until they were re-discovered by Captain Ross in 1818. Baffin next took service with the East India Company, and in 1617-1619 performed a voyage to Surat in British India, and on his return received the special recognition of the Company for certain valuable surveys of the Red Sea and Persian Gulf which he had made in the course of the voyage. Early in 1620 he again sailed to the East, and in the AngloPersian attack on Kishm in the Persian Gulf, preparatory to the reduction of Ormuz, he received his death-wound and died on the 23rd of January 1622. Besides the importance of his geographical discoveries, Baffin is to be remembered for the importance and accuracy of his numerous scientific and magnetic observations, for one of which (the determination of longitude at sea by lunar observation) the honour is claimed of being the first of its kind on record.

BAFFIN BAY and BAFFIN LAND, an arctic sea and an insular tract named after the explorer William Baffin. Baffin or Baffin's Bay is part of the long strait which separates Baffin Land from Greenland. It extends from about 69° to 78° N. and from 54° to 76° W From the northern end it is connected

(1) with the polar sea northward by Smith Sound, prolonged by Kane Basin and Kennedy and Robeson Channels; (2) with the straits which ramify through the archipelago to the north-west by narrow channels at the head of Jones Sound, from which O. Sverdrup and his party conducted explorations in 19001902, (3) with the more southerly part of the same archipelago by Lancaster Sound Baffin Bay was explored very fully in 1616 by Baffin. The coasts are generally high, precipitous and deeply indented. The most important island on the east side is Disco, to the north of Disco Bay, Greenland. During the greater part of the year this sea is frozen, but, while hardly ever free of ice, there are normally navigable channels along the coasts from the beginning of June to the end of September connected by transverse channels. The bay is noted as a centre of the whale and seal fishery At more than one point a depth exceeding 1000 fathoms has been ascertained.

Baffin Land is a barren insular tract, included in Franklin district, Canada, with an approximate area of 236,000 sq m., situated between 61° and 90° W and 62° and 74° N The eastern and northern coasts are rocky and mountainous, and are deeply indented by large bays including Frobisher and Home Bays, Cumberland Sound and Admiralty Inlet. Baffin Land is separated from Greenland by Baffin Bay and Davis Strait, from Ungava by Hudson Strait, from Keewatin and Melville Peninsula by Fox Channel and Fury-and-Hecla Strait, from Boothia Peninsula and North Somerset by the Gulf of Boothia and Prince Regent Inlet, and from North Devon by Lancaster Sound. Various names are given to various parts of the landthus the north-western part is called Cockburn Land, farther

east is North Galloway; on the extreme eastern peninsula are | is made the score counts for the adversary. If the striker's ball Cumberland and Penny Lands, while the southern is called is holed he plays from baulk; if an object-ball, it is spotted as Meta Incognita; in the west is Fox Land. In the southern part of the interior are two large lakes, Amadjuak, which lies at an altitude of 289 ft., and Nettiling or Kennedy.

BAGAMOYO, a seaport of German East Africa in 6° 22′ S., 38° 55′ E. Pop. about 18,000, including a considerable number of British Indians. Being the port on the mainland nearest the town of Zanzibar, 26 m. distant, Bagamoyo became the startingpoint for caravans to the great lakes, and an entrepôt of trade with the interior of the continent. It possesses no natural harbour. The beach slopes gently down and ships anchor about 2 m. off the coast. The town is oriental in character. The buildings include the residence of the administrator, barracks, a government school for natives, a mosque and Hindu temple, and the establishment of the Mission du Sacré Cœur, which possesses a large plantation of coco-nut palms. Bagamoyo is in telegraphic communication with Zanzibar and with the other coast towns of German East Africa, and has regular steamship communication with Zanzibar. Of the explorers who made Bagamoyo the starting-point for their journeys to the interior of Africa, the most illustrious were Sir Richard Burton, J. H. Speke, J. A. Grant and Sir H. M. Stanley.

BAGATELLE (French, from Ital. bagatella, bagata, a trifle), primarily a thing of trifling importance. The name, though French, is given to a game which is probably of English origin, though its connexion with the shovel-board of Cotton's Complete Gamester is very doubtful. Strutt does not mention it. The game is very likely a modification of billiards, and is played on an oblong board or table varying in size from 6 ft. by 14 ft. to 10 ft. by 3 ft. The bed of the table is generally made of slate, although, in the smaller sizes, wood covered with green cloth is often used. The sides are cushioned with india-rubber. The head is semicircular and fitted with 9 numbered cups set into the bed, their numbers showing the amount scored by putting a ball into them. An ordinary billiard-cue and nine balls, one black, four red and four white, are used. The black ball is placed upon a spot about 9 in. in front of hole 1, and about 18 in. from the player's end of the board a line (the baulk) is drawn across it, behind which is another spot for the player's ball. (These measurements of course differ according to the size of the table.) Some modern tables have pockets as well as cups.

Bagatelle Proper.-The black ball having been placed on the upper spot, the players "string" for the lead, the winner being that player who plays his ball into the highest hole. Any number may play, either separately, or in sides. Each player in turn plays all eight balls up the table, no score being allowed until a ball has touched the black ball, the object being to play as many balls as possible into the holes, the black ball counting double. Balls missing the black at the beginning, those rolling back across the baulk-line, and those forced off the table are "dead" for that round and removed. The game is decided by the aggregate score made in an agreed number of rounds.

Sans Egal-This is a French form of the game. Two players take part, one using the red and one the white balls. After stringing for lead, the leader plays at the black, forfeiting a ball if he misses. His opponent then plays at the black if it has not been touched, otherwise any way he likes, and each then plays alternately, the object being to hole the black and his own balls, the winner being the one who scores the highest number of points. If a player holes one of his opponent's balls it is scored for his opponent. The game is decided by a certain number of rounds, or by points, usually 21 or 31. In other matters the rules of bagatelle apply.

The Cannon Game.-This is usually considered the best and most scientific of bagatelle varieties. Tables without cups are sometimes used. As in billiards three bails are required, the white, spot-white and black, the last being spotted and the non-striker's ball placed midway between holes 1 and 9. The object of the game is to make cannons (caroms), balls played into holes, at the same time counting the number of the holes, but if a ball falls into a hole during a play in which no cannon

at the beginning of the game. A cannon counts 2; missing the white object-ball scores 1 to the adversary; missing the black, 5 to the adversary. If there are pockets, the striker scores 2 for holing the white object-ball and 3 for holing the black, but a cannon must be made by the same stroke; otherwise the score counts for the adversary.

The Irish Cannon Game.-The rules of the cannon game apply, except that in all cases pocketed balls count for the adversary.

Mississippi.-This variation is played with a bridge pierced with 9 on more arches, according to the size of the table, the arches being numbered from 1 upwards. All nine balls are usually played, though the black is sometimes omitted, each player having a round, the object being to send the balls through the arches. This may not be done directly, but the balls must strike a cushion first, the black, if used, counting double the arch made. If a ball is played through an arch, without first striking a cushion, the score goes to the adversary, but another ball, lying in front of the bridge, may be sent through by the cue-ball if the latter has struck a cushion. If a ball falls into a cup the striker scores the value of the cup as well as of the arch.

Trou Madame. This is a game similar to Mississippi, with the exceptions that the ball need not be played on to a cushion, and that, if a ball falls into a cup, the opponent scores the value of the cup and not the striker.

Bell-Bagatelle is played on a board provided with cups, arches from which bells hang, and stalls each marked with a number. The ball is played up the side and rolls down the board, which is slightly inclined, through the arches or into a cup or stall, the winner scoring the highest with a certain number of balls.

BAGDAD, or BAGHDAD, a vilayet of Asiatic Turkey, situated between Persia and the Syrian desert, and including the greater part of ancient Babylonia. The original vilayet extended from Mardin on the N. to the Persian Gulf on the S., and from the river Khabor on the W. to the Persian frontier on the E. From the middle of the 17th century, when this region was annexed by the Turks, until about the middle of the 19th century, the vilayet of Bagdad was the largest province of the Turkish empire, constituting at times an almost independent principality. Since then, however, it has lost much of its importance and all of its independence. The first reduction in size occurred in 1857, when some of the western portion of the vilayet was added to the newly created sanjak of Zor. In 1878 the Mosul vilayet was created out of its northern, and in 1884 the Basra vilayet out of its southern sanjaks. At the present time it extends from a point just below Kut el-Amara to a point somewhat above Tekrit on the Tigris, and from a point somewhat below Samawa to a point a little above Anah on the Euphrates. It is still, territorially, the largest province of the empire, and includes some of the most fertile lands in the Euphrates-Tigris valleys; but while possessing great possibilities for fertility, by far the larger portion of the vilayet is to-day a desert, owing to the neglect of the irrigation canals on which the fertility of the valley depends. From the latitude of Bagdad northward the region between the two rivers is an arid, waterless, limestone steppe, inhabited only by roving Arabs. From the latitude of Bagdad southward the country is entirely alluvial soil, deposited by the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, possessing great possibilities of fertility, but absolutely flat and subject to inundations at the time of flood of the two rivers. At that season much of the country, including the immediate surroundings of Bagdad, is under water. During the rest of the year a large part of the country is a parched and barren desert, and much of the remainder swamps and lagoons. Wherever there is any pretence at irrigation, along the banks of the two great rivers and by the few canals which are still in existence, the yield is enormous, and the shores of the Tigris and Euphrates in the neighbourhood of Bagdad and Hilla seem to be one great palm garden. Sultan Abd-ul-Hamid II. personally acquired large tracts of land in various parts of the vilayet. These so-called sennichs are

well farmed and managed, in conspicuous contrast with the sur- Cholera is endemic in some parts of the vilayet, and before rounding territory. Canals and dikes bave been constructed to 1875 the same was true of the bubonic plague. At that date control and distribute the much-needed water, and the officials this disease was stamped out by energetic measures on the part are housed in new buildings of substantial appearance. Indeed, of the government, but it has reappeared again in recent years, wherever one finds a new and prosperous-looking village, it may introduced apparently from India or Persia by pilgrims. There be assumed to belong to the sultan. These senniehs are an are four great centres of pilgrimage for Shi'ite Moslems in the advantage to the country in that they give security to their vilayet, Samarra, Kazemain, a suburb of Bagdad, Kerbela and immediate region and certain employment to some part of its Nejef. These are visited annually by tens of thousands of population. On the other hand, they withdrew large tracts of pilgrims, not only from the surrounding regions, but also from fertile and productive land from taxation (one-half of the Persia and India; many of whom bring their dead to be buried cultivated land of the vilayet was said to be administered for in the neighbourhood of the sacred tombs. the sultan's privy purse), and thus greatly reduced the revenue Unpleasant, but not dangerous, is another disease, the so-called of the vilayet.

Bagdad date-mark," known elsewhere as the "Aleppo button," The chief city of the vilayet is its capital, Bagdad. Between &c. This disease extends along the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, the Euphrates and the Arabian plateau lie the sacred cities of and the country adjacent from Aleppo and Diarbekr to the Kerbela or Meshed-Hosain, and Nejef or Meshed Ali, with a Persian Gulf, although there are individual towns and regions population of 20,000 to 60,000 each, while a number of towns, in this territory which seem to be exempt. It shows itself as a varying in population from 3000 to 10,000, are found along the boil, attacking the face and extremities. It appears in two Euphrates (Anah, Hit, Ramadieh, Musseyib, Hilla, Diwanieh forms, known to the natives as male and female respectively. and Samawa) and the Tigris (Tekrit, Samarra and Kut el-The former is a dry scaly sore, and the latter a running, open boil. Amara). The settled population lics entirely along the banks It is not painful but leaves ugly scars. The natives all carry of these streams and the canals and lagoons westward of the somewhere on their face, neck, hands, arms or feet the scars of Euphrates, between Kerbela and Nejef. Away from the banks these boils which they have had as children. European children of the rivers, between the Euphrates and the Tigris and between born in the country are apt to be seriously disfigured, as in their the latter and the Persian mountains, are tribes of wandering case the boils almost invariably appear on the face, and whereas Arabs, some of whom possess great herds of horses, sheep, goats, native children have as a rule but one boil, those born of European asses and camels, while in and by the marshes other tribes, in parents will have several. Adult foreigners visiting the country the transition stage from the nomadic to the settled life, own are also liable to be attacked, and women, especially, rarely escape great herds of buffalocs. Of the wandering Arab tribes, the most disfigurement if they stay in the country for any length of time. powerful is the great tribe of Shammar, which ranges over all The boils last for about a year, after which there is no more Mesopotamia. In January and February they descend as low likelihood of a recurrence of the trouble than in the case of as the neighbourhood of Diwanieh in such numbers that even smallpox. Bagdad is afraid. Here and there are regions occupied by a The area of the vilayet is 54,480 sq. m. The population semi-sedentary population, called Madan, occupying reed huts is estimated at 852,000; Christians, 8000, principally Nestorians huddled around mud castles, called meftul. These, like the or Chaldaeans; Jews, 54,000; Moslems, 790,000, of whom the Bedouin Arabs, are practically independent, waging constant larger part are Shi'as. warfare among themselves and paying an uncertain tribute to See G. le Strange. Baghdad under the Abba sid Caliphate (1901): the Turkish government. In general, Turkish rule is confined The Lands of the Eastern Caliphate (Cambridge, 1905): V. Cuinet, to the villages, towns and cities along the river banks, in and by Ila Turquie d'Asie (Paris, 1890); J. P. Peters. Vippur (Xew which garrisons are located. Since the time (1868-1872) of Midhat (Leipzig, 1900); A. v. Geere, By Nile and Euphrates (Edinburgh, Pasha, who did much to bring the independent Arab tribes under 1904).

(J. P. PE.S control, the Turkish government has been, however, gradually BAGDAD, or BAGHDAD, the capital of the Turkish vilayet strengthening its grip on the country and extending the arca of of the same name. It is the headquarters of the VI. Army conscription and taxation. But from both the racial and religious Corps, which garrisons also the Basra and Mosul vilayets. It standpoint, the Arab and Persian Shi'as, who constitute the vast lies on both sides of the river Tigris, in an extensive desert plain bulk of the population, regard the Turks as foreigners and tyrants. which has scarcely a tree or village throughout its whole extent,

Of crops the vilayet produces wheat (which is indigenous), in latitude 33° 20' N., longitude 44° 24' E. At this point the rice, barley (which takes the place of oais as food for horses), Tigris and the Euphrates approach each other most nearly, durra (a coarse, maize-like grain), sesame, cotton and tobacco; the distance between them being little more than 25 m. At of fruits, the date, orange, lemon, fig, banana and pomegranate this point also the two rivers are connected by a canal, the The country is naturally treeless, except for the tamarisk, which northernmost of a series of canals which formerly united the two grows by the swamps and along the river-beds. Here and there great waterways, and at the same time irrigated the intervening one sees a solitary sifsaf tree, or a small plantation of poplars plain. This canal, the Sakhlawieh (formerly Isa), leaves the or white mulberries, which trees, with the date-palm, constitute Euphrates a few miles above Feluja and the bridge of boats, the only timber of the country. The willows reported by some near the ruins of the ancient Anbar. As it approaches Bagdad travellers are in reality a narrow-leaved variety of poplar. it spreads out in a great marsh, and finally, through the Masudi

Besides the buffaloes and a few humped Indian oxen, there canal, which encircles western Bagdad, enters the Tigris below are no cattle in the country. Of wild animals, the pig, hyena, the town. At the time of Chesney's survey of the Euphrates in jackal, antelope and hare are extremely numerous; lions are 1838 this canal was still navigable for craft of some size. At still found, and wolves and foxes are not uncommon. Snipe and present it serves no other purpose than to increase the floods various species of wild fowl are found in the marshes, and which periodically turn Bagdad into an island city, and somepelicans and storks abound along the banks of the Euphrates times threaten to overwhelm the dikes which protect it and and Tigris. Fish are caught in great numbers in the rivers and to submerge it entirely. marshes, chiefly barbel and carp, and the latter attain so great The original city of Bagdad was built on the western bank of a size that one is a sufficient load for an ass. The principal the Tigris, but this is now, and has been for centuries, little exports of the province are coarse wool, hides, dates and horses. more than a suburb of the larger and more important city on At various points, especially at Hit, and from Hit southward along the castern shore, the former containing an area of only 146 acres the edge of the Arabian plateau occur bitumen, napbtha and within the walls, while the latter extends over 591 acres. Both white petroleum springs, all of which remain undeveloped. The the eastern and the western part of the city were formerly climate is very hot in summer, with a mean temperature of 97° F. enclosed by brick walls, with large round towers at the principal From April to November no rain falls; in November the rains angles and smaller towers intervening at shorter distances, the commence, and during the winter the thermometer falls to 46° F. I whole surrounded by a deep fosse There were three gates in the

western city and four in the eastern; one of the latter, however, on the north side, called "Gate of the Talisman" from an Arabic inscription bearing the date A.D. 1220, has remained closed since the capture of the city by Murad IV. in 1638. These walls all fell into decay long since; at places they were used as brick quarries, and finally the great reforming governor, (1868-1872), Midhat Pasha, following the example set by many European cities, undertook to destroy them altogether and utilize the free space thus obtained as a public park and esplanade. His plans were only partially carried out. At present fragments of the walls exist here and there, with the great ditch about them, while elsewhere a line of mounds marks their course. A great portion of the ground within the wall lines is not occupied by buildings, especially in the north-western quarter; and even in the more populous parts of the city, near the river, a considerable space between the houses is occupied by gardens, where pomegranates, figs, oranges, lemons and date-palms grow in great abundance, so that the city, when seen at a distance, has the appearance of rising out of the midst of trees.

Along the Tigris the city spreads out into suburbs, the most important of which is Kazemain, on the western side of the river northward, opposite which on the eastern side lies Muazzam. The former of these is connected with western Bagdad by a very primitive horse-tramway, also a relic of Midhat Pasha's reforms. The two parts of the city are joined by pontoon bridges, one in the suburbs and one in the main city. The Tigris is at this point some 275 yds. wide and very deep. Its banks are of mud, with no other retaining walls than those formed by the foundations of the houses, which are consequently always liable to be undermined by the action of the water. The western part of the city, which is very irregular in shape, is occupied entirely by Shi'as. It has its own shops, bazaars, mosques, &c., and constitutes a quarter by itself. Beyond the wall line on that side vestiges of ancient buildings are visible in various directions, and the plain is strewn with fragments of bricks, tiles and rubbish. A burying-ground has also extended itself over a large tract of land, formerly occupied by the streets of the city. The form of the new or eastern city is that of an irregular oblong, about 1500 paces in length by 800 in breadth. The town has been built without the slightest regard to regularity; the streets are even more intricate and winding than those in most other Eastern towns, and with the exception of the bazaars and some open squares, the interior is little else than a labyrinth of alleys and passages. The streets are unpaved and in many places so narrow that two horsemen can scarcely pass each other; as it is seldom that the houses have windows facing the thoroughfares, and the doors are small and mean, they present on both sides the gloomy appearance of dead walls. All the buildings, both public and private, are constructed of furnaceburnt bricks of a yellowish-red colour, principally derived from the ruins of other places, chiefly Madain (Ctesiphon), Wasit and Babylon, which have been plundered at various times to furnish materials for the construction of Bagdad.

The houses of the richer classes are regularly built about an interior court. The ground floor, except for the serdab, is given up to kitchens, store-rooms, servants' quarters, stables, &c. The principal rooms are on the first floor and open directly from a covered veranda, which is reached by an open staircase from the court. These constitute the winter residence of the family, reception rooms, &c. The roofs of the houses are all flat, surrounded by parapets of sufficient height to protect them from the observation of the dwellers opposite, and separate them from their neighbours. In the summer the population sleeps and dines upon the roofs, which thus constitute to all intents a third storey. The remainder of the day, so far as family life is concerned, is spent in the serdab, a cellar sunk somewhat below the level of the courtyard, damp from frequent wettings, with its half windows covered with hurdles thatched with camel thorn and kept dripping with water. Occasionally the serdabs are provided with punkahs.

Sometimes, in the months of June, July and August, when the sherki or south wind is blowing, the thermometer at break

of day is known to stand at 112° F., while at noon it rises to 119° and a little before two o'clock to 122°, standing at sunset at 114°, but this scale of temperature is exceptional. Ordinarily during the summer months the thermometer averages from about 75° at sunrise to 107° at the hottest time of the day. Owing to the extreme dryness of the atmosphere and the fact that there is always a breeze, usually from the N.W., this heat is felt much less than a greatly lower temperature in a more humid atmosphere. Moreover, the nights are almost invariably cool.

Formerly Bagdad was intersected by innumerable canals and aqueducts which carried the water of both the Euphrates and the Tigris through the streets and into the houses. To-day these have all vanished, with the exception of one aqueduct which still conveys the water of the Tigris to the shrine of Abd al-Qadir (ul-Kadir). The present population draws its water directly from the Tigris, and it is distributed through the city in goat-skins carried on the backs of men and asses. There is, of course, no sewerage system, the surfaces of the streets serving that purpose, and what garbage and refuse is not consumed by the dog scavengers washes down into the Tigris at the same place from which the water for drinking is drawn. As a consequence of these insanitary conditions the death-rate is very high, and in case of epidemics the mortality is enormous. At such times a large part of the population leaves the city and encamps in the desert northward.

The principal public buildings of the city, such as they are, lie in the eastern section along the river bank. To the north, just within the old wall line, stands the citadel, surrounded by a high wall, with a lofty clock-tower which commands an excellent view. To the south of this, also on the Tigris, is the serai or palace of the Turkish governor, distinguished rather for extent than grandeur. It is comparatively modern, built at different periods, a large and confused structure without proportion, beauty or strength. Somewhat farther southward, just below the pontoon bridge, stands the custom house, which occupies the site and is built out of the material of the medreseh or college of Mostansir (A.D. 1233). Of the original building of the caliph Mostansir all that remains is a minaret and a small portion of the outer walls. Farther down are the imposing buildings of the British residency. The German consulate also is on the river-front. As in all Mahommedan cities, the mosques are conspicuous objects. Of these very few are old. The Marjanieh mosque, not far from the minaret of Mostansir, although its body is modern, has some remains of old and very rich arabesque work on its surface, dating from the 14th century." The door is formed by a lofty arch of the pointed form guarded on both sides with red bands exquisitely sculptured and having numerous inscriptions. The mosque of Khaseki, supposed to have been an old Christian church, is chiefly distinguished for its prayer niche, which, instead of being a simple recess, is crowned by a Roman arch, with square pedestals, spirally fluted shafts and a rich capital of flowers, with a fine fan or shell-top in the Roman style. The building in its present form bears the date of A.D. 1682, but the sculptures which it contains belong probably to the time of the caliphate. The minaret of Suk el-Ghazl, in the south-eastern part of the city, dates from the 13th century. The other mosques, of which there are about thirty within the walls, excluding the chapels and places of prayer, are all of recent erection. Most of them are surmounted by bright-coloured cupolas and minarets. The Mosque of the Vizier, on the eastern side of the Tigris, near the pontoon bridge,' has a fine dome and a lofty minaret, and the Great Mosque in the square of el Meidan, in the neighbourhood of the serai, is also a noble building.

The other mosques do not merit any particular attention, and in general it may be said that Bagdad architecture is neither distinctive nor imposing. Such attractions as the buildings possess are due rather to the richly coloured tiles with which many of them are adorned, or to inscriptions, like the Kufic inscription, dated A.D. 944, on the ruined lekke of the Bektash dervishes in western Bagdad. More important than the mosques

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