a person high in authority at Rome, that the soldiers hired by individuals could not be depended upon, as they would most probably lead us into danger, and then run away, or, if attacked, would join the banditti. The soldiers employed by the government to guard the conveyance of letters, having some fear of punishment before their eyes for any dereliction of their duty, and some hope of reward by faithfully executing it; we were advised to take as few things as possible, and trust ourselves with them. This we accordingly did; and, with hearts big with expectation, set off for Naples.

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CHAPTER XI.

ROME TO NAPLES.

ENTERING NOW upon classic ground, what now

splendid recollections crowd the memory! Hardly a spot between Rome and Naples but has been dignified and ennobled by Homer and Virgil, by Horace and Ovid. With a delightful though melancholy feeling, you traverse the scenes of ancient days -the region of the poets. With what eagerness you regard every little remnant of antiquity, or even a spot of ground where formerly stood a city or a grove sacred to the muses! Minerva, Apollo, Jupiter, Diana, and the whole synod of the gods, recur to your memory with the rapidity of lightning, or stand before you arrayed in all their descriptive or imaginary glory. It is with these pleasing associations you pass along; and of which, not all the fears of banditti, of plunder, or of murder, can rob you: these are your safeguard; these are

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DANGEROUS STATE OF THE ROAD.

your comfort;-you are alone!-you revel in enjoyment!—the world is nothing!

The road from Rome to Naples is the most dangerous of any in Italy, not only from the hordes of brigands which infest it, and by whom you are in danger of being attacked every moment, but also from the mal aria or bad air, caused by the vapours arising from the Pomptine marshes. We had heard much of the banditti, and that since the Austrian troops had left Naples, their increased audacity had already begun to show itself. Notwithstanding I knew what Cardinal Gonsalvi had said, that he would not answer for the Neapolitan government itself when these troops left; yet, considering that fear often exaggerates an evil, I must confess I thought lightly of these tales, and felt confident that a few Englishmen, with pistols in their hands, were a match for any number of brigands that could set on them. However, as I have before said, according to the advice of our friends, we neglected no precaution which they considered necessary; and we engaged places with the courier who conveys the post, and travels

HORACE: APPIAN WAY.

under an escort of cavalry.

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Before we

had been ten hours on our journey, we witnessed the lamentable effects of the want of an efficient government in the desperate and cold-blooded villany of these lawless bands.

The journey from Rome to Naples acquires additional interest, from having been partly described by Horace; and we read with pleasure his fifth satire in the first book, because we passed a part of the places which he describes: we took an interest in their geopraphy; we compared their actual state with his narration, as also the names they now bear with those of his time.

The ancient road to Naples was by the celebrated Appian way, made by Appius Claudius, when he was censor, in the year of Rome 442. It commenced from Rome by the Porto Capena, now called St. Sebastian, passed over the Pomptine Marshes, and extended to Capua; from whence Trajan continued it to Brindes, where he had a magnificent port, from which he embarked for Greece. This road was formed

140

HORATII AND CURIATII.

of great blocks of stone, and decorated with magnificent tombs. It united the advantages of all the other Roman ways, so much so, that Cicero called it, "Regina Viarum," the Queen of the ways, and Procopius, "Via spectatu dignissima."

The modern road to Naples is not entirely on the Appian way, because we go out from Rome by the port St. John, and leave it on the right to pass through Albano. By this gate also begins the Via Campania, which leads to a province of that name in the kingdom of Naples, and the Via Tusculum, which conducts you to the ancient Tusculum, a celebrated city of Latium, now called Frescati.

There are many remains of ancient monuments on the road, which appear to have been tombs. We perceived also the ruins of the Claudian aqueduct. The battle between the Horatii and Curiatii was fought about five miles from Rome, between that city and the mountains of Albano. In passing these latter, there are deep holes and caverns on each side the road, which, by being associated with the