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NEAPOLITAN WOMEN.

and one head will present all the different shades from the lightest to the darkest brown. The higher classes are very gay in their habiliments; but the Neapolitan women are universally ugly, having somewhat of the Egyptian character, thick lips, heavy eyelids, flat foreheads, and sallow complexions.

Although the Neapolitans have a luxuriant sea before them, and a shore of the softest sand, they never enter in it; and the few that are seen bathing near the King's garden, are generally English. In walking along the streets of an evening, there may be seen, under the porticos of palaces, at the gates of churches, on the steps of houses and terraces, and by the sides of streets, crowds of Lazaroni sunk in slumber, those being their usual places of

rest.

On the evening after our return from Vesuvius we took tea in the balcony of our window, which overlooked the sea. The sun was just setting; there was a most glorious sky, scenes of misery vanished. from our minds, and we gave ourselves up

DELICIOUS CLIMATE.

177

to the enjoyment of the scene around. The deliciousness of the climate, the fertility of the earth, producing excellent corn in abundance, and quantities of the finest fruits and vegetables, the grandeur of the bay, and the magnificence of the scenery, caused that degree of inspiration which renders us above ourselves; and when night had fallen, what a time for reflection! The balcony of my window commanded the whole bay; and from the bay, the Mediterranean spread itself to the horizon. On the left rose Vesuvius, with its burning top, to the clouds; on the right were the grotto and mountain of Posilipo; and beyond that, poetic ground, with all its pleasing associations. Above, the moon was shining in splendour with its borrowed light, in a pure atmospheric region; and the more distant stars, twinkling with original lustre, gave animation to the scene. Lamps lined the shore; and nothing was heard but the confused murmur of distant sounds from the busy haunts of men, the softness of which was occasionally interrupted by the barking

N

of the watchful dog. The rattling of a carriage announced some one, who, it was possible, might be returning filled with ennui from a resort of public amusement -or with mortified vanity from the precincts of a court, or with an aching heart from domestic calamity—or with the joyfulness of a lover well received by his beloved-or with a breast wounded with the pangs of jealousy-or with a bosom callous to sensibility, from plundering the pocket-of-perhaps his friend; or possibly it might be one flying to the arms of a beloved wife or conveying agreeable news to a sincere friend-or in the buoyancy of expectation of meeting a lovely mistress. It passed swiftly by, and was no longer heard-silence prevailed -music was wafted through the air-some one serenading-or perhaps chanting to the Virgin. It died away-silence again prevailed. Mortality was sunk in sleep, while wakeful angels guard. Address thyself to thy Creator, and retire to thy couch. Who can behold the vast firmament, but must exclaim with the poet, "That there

HAPPINESS IS IN VIRTUE.

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is a God above, all nature cries aloud through all her works; he must delight in virtue; and that which he delights in must be happy."

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CHAPTER XIII.

VESUVIUS, HERCULANEUM, AND POMPEII.

HIRING a carriage at Naples, we were quickly conveyed to Portici, which is about six miles distance. Many of these carriages are crazy vehicles, that have been a long time in the service of the public, and are generally continued so, until they drop to pieces. Ours expired with old age on its entry into Portici. On the road, one of the wheels gave way, leaving us in rather a perilous condition. But this seemed to afford no small matter of merriment to our postilion, who pointed out its state in apparent triumph to others passing by, and drove with increased velocity, that it might not tumble to pieces before the termination of our course. His aim was accomplished; but when in full gallop up the town, the wheels gave way, flying in all directions, the carriage sunk