ACHERON: ELYSIAN FIELDS. 221 Acheron, where the "fell boatman" plied. Here, "The souls crowded, with horrid yells, Close to the cursed shore of bliss devoid. He drives them close with his relentless oar. DANTE, Canto III. We crossed this stream, but not with that "grim ferryman which poets write of;" nor was it "the kingdom of eternal night" which we entered. Beyond, were the Elysian fields. It is yet a charming country, which never feels the rigour of winter; though all these parts have been desolated by earthquakes and partial erup tions. Near the Sibyl's Grotto and Lake Avernus, was the ancient Cumæ, a city of the highest antiquity. It was celebrated for its and riches, also for the tyranny power of Aristodemus; and as the place of the exile and death of Tarquin the Proud, after he was ejected from Rome. Virgil 222 CAPE MESINUS: CYCLOP. speaks of a temple which Dædalus raised to Apolló, where he consecrated the wings which served him to escape from Minos. This city became deserted when the Romans fixed themselves at Baiæ. The places we have just visited, have now none of the terrific imagery with which the poets clothed them, with the exception of the Sibyl's Grotto, a fit place for the delivery of her wild mysterious oracles. Lake Avernus forms the arena of a delightful amphitheatre, and is no longer overshadowed by clouds and dark ness. In returning, we touched at Cape Mesinus, where Pliny commanded at the time of the eruption of Vesuvius. It was so named from one of the companions of Eneas, who was buried there. On this coast we drank of the Falernian wine; and, although I do not suppose it was so good as anciently, yet it was very pleasant to the taste. We had for our guide a man with one eye, who, from that misfortune, was called one of the Cyclops, a name perfectly suitable to the places we explored. CHAPTER XV. RETURN TO ROME. ONCE more do I turn my eyes towards home. Once more do I face the north star, and look on that constellation which I have so often contemplated with those I love. Hitherto I have been travelling southward, far from all I hold most dear; now, my steps, as my thoughts have always been, are directed towards England. Rome has its wonders, Naples its delights, and Pompeii its refined pursuits; but the attractions of home, how infinitely superior! We set out with the courier, accompanied with the usual escort, on a fine night, the stars shining with increased lustre from the clearness of the atmosphere. Not being disposed to sleep, I continued on the outside of the carriage the greater part of the night. In the silence that prevailed, I enjoyed a luxurious quiet, to which I had 224 POMPTINE MARSHES. been long unaccustomed. I arranged my thoughts, recalled what I had seen, and dwelt with rapture on those pleasing reminiscences. I had now leisure to think ; I had no humours to study; no force put on my complaisance: I was by myself, alone, and could exclaim with Scipio Africanus, that I am never less alone than when alone." Little occurred until we arrived at Fondi, except the ceremony we occasionally went through, when coming to a suspicious place, of hiding our money, watches, &c. in a secret drawer in the coach, with the consequent sensations, particularly after having seen some of the fearful results of the desperate hordes which infest the country. At Fondi, when the Douaniers recognised us, they turned on their heels and walked away. We passed through the same ceremonies on the frontiers, and arrived at Terracina late in the day, when we again entered upon the Pomptine Marshes. To sleep in passing them is considered dangerous, though the air has a tendency to produce somnolency. The evening set FEELINGS AND TERRORS IN PASSING. 225 in darker than usual, and we had twentyfive miles to travel over them, in the heat of summer, and subject to all their noxious exhalations. The country presented a dismal appearance. A gloom spread around, occasioned by a mist or fog, caused by the vapours rising from the marshy land. Excessive drowsiness, accompanied by profuse perspiration, nearly overpowered us. The air was disagreeably close, damp, and suffocating, so much so as to cause a difficulty of breathing. As night advanced, the rapidity of our progress was beyond any thing I had ever experienced. Fear seemed to animate the postilions, and to lend wings to the horses. The escort of cavalry galloped on each side, looking keenly about them with their carbines prepared. The shrieking noise accompanied us, whistling in our ears, from all sides, from those animals which are always heard in Italy at night, and which seemed to increase the faster we whirled over the pavement*. Lights occasionally gleamed * This noise is really of so terrific a nature, as to incline one to think that the poets took their idea from it, of Orestes pursued by the Furies. ૨ |