at Rome, when looking at the Farnese and other palaces, though unaccompanied by that indignation at seeing the infamous spoliation which those families had been guilty of in their erection.

A late learned traveller in Italy, when speaking of St. Paul's of London, says, "not only is it inferior to St. Peter's, but to numberless other churches in Italy; particularly in Rome, Venice, and Padua." I hope he did not mean St. Antonio, the cathedral at Padua, which is a clumsy ill-looking building, with all its domes; or that of St. Mark's at Venice, which, although Santa Sophia at Constantinople was its model, is to be regarded more as a curiosity in architecture than as any thing fine. The first Santa Sophia was built by Constantine; but although that emperor could command marbles and sculpture of the most exquisite beauty, which he tore without remorse from their original stations, yet he could not create artists.

The interior of St. Antonio is decorated with paintings by Giotto, and a series of bronze basso relievoes beautifully executed, the subjects of which are taken from the

Scriptures. The candelabres are likewise of bronze, richly sculptured. La scuola is ornamented with paintings in fresco, by different artists; some of them are said to be by Titian. St. Giustino has a fine picture over the altar by Paul Veronese, and a good one by Sebastian Ricci.

Il Salone, which is the town-hall, has been compared with that of Westminster; but, in my opinion, the simile "was most unlike." It is singular that its corners are not right angles, consequently its diagonal lines are not equal. There is a small hole on one side the roof, dividing its length into two equal parts, through which the sun shines, and the line of the rays at noon is marked on the floor to the opposite side, indicating mid-day. A conjecture was started that, for this trifling object, the building was made to take the zigzag direction before mentioned. In this hall is a monument and a bust of Titus Livius.

This city is handsome in many parts; but some of the streets are very narrow and badly paved. A part within its ancient walls is waste. The inns and coffee-houses are good. In the latter, as well as those of other

THE ENGLISH AND POSTERITY.

263

cities in this part of Italy, the cushions on which you sit are luxuriously soft; and at the same time cool, being covered with leather. The flies are often so troublesome, that those persons who enter for refreshment are supplied with bunches of strips of paper, with a handle attached to them, by which they are enabled to drive away those annoying insects.

In going by land to Fusina, we drove by the side of the Brenta. A fertile country, populous villages, splendid palaces, and the anticipation of soon enjoying the sight of Venice, rendered this short journey very pleasing. In Italy every house is a palace, while in England, such is our modesty, that we call almost every mansion a cottage. Will not posterity say, what a learned, polite, yet humble race the English were in the beginning of the nineteenth century?-so learned, that even their shops, where the commonest articles were sold, had names of Greek and Latin derivation; so polite, that the beggars thanked you all the same, although you gave them nothing; and yet so humble, that their greatest men were content to live in cottages.

264

HONOUR THE MOST BINDING.

We again saw the snow-capt Alps as we approached Fusina, where we shortly after arrived.

It is customary in Italy, when you enter into an engagement with any person, for him to give you a piece of money, which is considered as binding the agreement. A man whom we had engaged to carry us to Vicenza, when we should return from Venice, made this offering; but, on telling him it was not necessary, he immediately tendered his hand, repeating, at the same time, that honour was more binding in an agreement than money. It was extremely pleasing to hear such a sentiment expressed-and the proffered bond was willingly accepted.

( 265 )

CHAPTER XIX.

VENICE.

ON our arrival at Fusina, a phenomenon struck our sight in the appearance of a city, with all its domes and spires, rising from the sea. The chief celebrity of this city consists in its situation, which is unique; in its former power and opulence; in the noble spirit of independence which once animated its people, and from which it derived its origin; and in its being the seat of that school of art, known under the name of Venetian, distinguished for all its alluring blandishments, decorations, and colouring. At the head of this school are the celebrated names of Titian, Paul Veronese, and Tintoret.

We passed the Lagunes in a gondola, and arrived opposite St. Mark's, where we rested some time, to enjoy the delightful scene by which we were surrounded. Magnificent edifices appeared on all sides