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JUSTICE TO ITALY.

frequently meet with in the streets of Paris and London. Vice there has at least the negative quality of hiding its head.

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CHAPTER XXII.

PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON.

ITALY! farewell-thy sun has set, never perhaps to rise again. Thy hills, once covered with verdure, are for the greater part barren. Thy fields are wasted; and nought is seen but a neglected soil, and a thinly scattered and degraded population*. Italy, once so lovely, situated in a most favoured clime, where nature was ever spontaneously bounteous, has now little to boast but of what she was.-Governments without power, and a lawless people with all the appearance of banditti, are now its characteristics.

Although oppressed for some days from the loss I had sustained, yet the calm that No succeeded was perfectly luxurious. cares, no anxieties about property to dis

* This more particularly applies to the other side of the Apennines.

308

HAPPINESS IN A MIND FREE.

turb it, my mind was left to the full enjoyment of itself. I had lost all I possessed at that time; and I became almost convinced that, in the possession of property, so much the object of all mankind, there is more trouble than pleasure. I considered that a man, with a crust of bread, a blanket, and a mind free from the shackles of ignorance, bigotry, superstition, and despotism, and open at all times to conviction, must be happy; and under this persuasion, I felt a degree of compassion for those whom I saw agitated about the safe disposal of their several packages. In robbing me, the depredators had relieved me from the cause of much vexation; while I was left in possession of my thoughts, full of delightful images, that will be the solace of my future hours, and of which, death alone can deprive me.

The road to the Simplon commences at the triumphal arch at Milan. It is bordered by walnut and chesnut trees, and continues through vineyards and plantations of mulberry trees to Sesto. We crossed the Tiseno, where Hannibal had his first battle with Scipio. The Lago

BARROMEAN ISLES.

309

Maggiore, so called from being the principal of the three lakes of Lombardy, was now before us :-at Arona, the grand road to the Alps begins; it is perfectly horizontal. The bridges which cross the streams are simple in form, and appear capable of everlasting duration.

Soon after passing Arona, the bronze statue of St. Charles Borromeo, seventy feet high, is seen on a mount to the left. The road coasts the Lago Maggiore, which presents a fine appearance to Fariola. We embarked, and visited the Borromean Isles, whose situation and appearance are extremely beautiful. On the bark of a laurel, the trees of which species are here very fine, the word Bataille was pointed out to us, as cut by Buonaparte two days before the battle of Marengo: it is now scarcely legible. He slept that night in the palace of Borromeo. These isles are very celebrated; but one of my friends, who had visited those on Loch Lomond, thought that the Scottish isles were infinitely superior.

Near Fariola is the quarry whence the marble was taken for the building of the

810

BRIDGES GALLERIES.

cathedral at Milan: blocks of an immense size are seen. From Fariola, the road, which is hard and smooth, begins to ascend; but so gentle is the rise as scarcely to be perceptible. It is raised and flanked by posts of granite, and mountains ascend on each side. After passing Domo d'Osola, we entered the defiles.

Here begin the grand works of the Simplon, by a magnificent bridge reaching from one mountain to another. It unites strength and beauty. The first gallery is small; but the rocks hang in terrific forms, while the roar of waters assails your ears. We examined the manner in which the rocks are blown up. Deep holes are bored into them, about the size of a musket barrel, into which the powder is firmly rammed, and then set fire to; the explo sion is great. The labour and expense in making these excavations must be prodigious.

The scenery, as we advanced, increased in grandeur: streams, gushing from on high on every side, formed a beautiful sight; while the roar of the Doveria heightened the effect of this desolate scene. It ap