336

A BRITON'S BOAST.

nolds, and which now possesses a Davy, and a constellation of the brightest stars in art and science, must be ever dear to its citizens. Although there may be errors, the excellence of its laws and establishments are the envy of the world. Let those who have a desire to forsake their country know, that England is the only place in which an Englishman can reside. We have neither the rude and violent democracy of America; nor the insolence of the aristocracy of the continent. England still remains the boast of Britons, whose greatest pride should be the being so, and in being born in this enlightened age.

But hush! let this be whispered among ourselves; for if it comes to the ears of ministers, they will presume upon it, and increase our taxation.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

IN

TRAVELLING.

THE traveller will find diligences to convey him to all parts of France; and if he crosses Mont Cenis to Italy, he can proceed by them from Lyons to Turin, and from thence to Milan or Genoa. Since the dismemberment of Geneva from France, the same facility of communication has been somewhat interrupted. He will be conveyed to Dôle in a comfortable carriage, but from thence to Geneva he will not have to boast of the convenience, although he may be booked at Paris for that city. The best place in Paris for engaging places in the diligences to any part of France, is at the Hotel des Messageries, rue Notre Dame des Victoires.

338

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

With respect to the other route to Italy from Geneva, you can cross the Simplon as far as Domo d'Osola, whence you can proceed to Milan by the post or courier. From Milan to Venice there is also a diligence; and there ends the public conveyances of that kind in Italy.

MODES OF TRAVELLING IN ITALY.

There are three modes of travelling in Italy:-With the courier who conveys the letters; by post, in which case it is necessary to have a carriage of your own; or, by the Vetturini. The first is the best for one or two individuals, especially if expedition be their object; while, in the present state of Italy, it is the safest mode. The second is pleasant for a party, who may desire to make excursions as they pass along; but it is necessary that one of them should be well acquainted with the Italian language,* otherwise there will be no end

*They often brought the tarif in support of some exorbitant demand, supposing that neither of us understood Italian, and would point out a passage, and even pretend

IN TRAVELLING.

to the impositions and exactions.

339

The

third mode is the best for those who have most time and least money, whether as it regards an individual or a party.

WITH THE COURIER.

be

The application to travel with the courier should invariably be made at the post-office, where the charges may generally ascertained. But if there should be more than one person, then there is an opportunity of making a bargain with the courier; though perhaps the interposition of an Italian friend, who is aware of their finesse, will be necessary to ensure success. The charges are in general high, but they include all demands from the guards and post-boys; at least that should be perfectly understood at the time. If this be omitted in the written agreement, the expense will be increased by one half; and even then these insatiate cormorants will be clamorous for more. All donations to

to translate it, though we saw that it related to another subject.

340

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

the soldiers and postilions should be resisted from the first, and then you are never troubled during the rest of the journey; for they always inform each other whom they have to contend with; and, as I before observed, the English are more liable to these attacks than any other nation.

POSTING.

If a party determine to travel post, the best way is to purchase a new carriage at Paris; and, on their arrival in Italy, to buy the latest post guide, in which will be found the regular charges for horses and postilions, the distance of the posts, &c.

VETTURINI.

The Vetturini are a class of men who will engage to convey you to any distance, and to accomplish it in a certain time. They seldom go more than thirty miles a day, and always sleep on the road. An agreement may be made with them to stop one, two, or more days at any particular place in the route. They will like