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CHARMS OF LYONS.

every object tending to produce that harmony of soul so much wished for-more could not be desired. But I doubt whether this would not be called voluptuousness; and having greater objects in view, I must hasten on.

CHAPTER IV.

CROSSING THE ALPS.

WE proceeded from Lyons to Turin. As we advanced, the houses had the appearance of those we see in the Italian landscapes, having broad projecting roofs, and many are built like square towers. About four o'clock in the morning, we entered Tour du Pin. The market was crowded with people, selling butter and cheese. Leaving this place, the mountains of Savoy broke upon our view, interspersed with clouds. We soon after arrived at Pont Beauvoisin, where we were detained a long time by the Douanieres, this being the entrance to the Sardinian dominions. An obvious change in the character of the people may here be observed. From Pont Beauvoisin we began to ascend the mountains, surrounded by every beauty of vegetation. The vineyards were luxuriant; and we refreshed ourselves, in passing, with the

fruit which offered, such as walnuts, apples, pears, and plums. Those who are fond of the terrific beauties of nature, may here enjoy themselves; and to the stranger, who has never before approached the Alps, the lofty ridges of Savoy present a grand and novel sight. On entering the first defile, the rocks above, the precipices below, the woods, the cascades, and the torrents form a coup d'ail gratifying in the extreme. The broken cliffs appear as if rent asunder by some mighty convulsion of nature. Passing onwards, we entered the delightful valley of Echelles, in the midst of which rises the pretty village of that name; the beauty of the scene it is impossible to describe. We now approached a prodigious work, said to have been begun by Cæsar, but executed principally by the order of Charles II. Duke of Savoy, in 1760. It is called the Grotto, and is a passage cut through the mountain to the length of five thousand yards, and in perpendicular height above one hundred feet. It is sufficiently wide for two carriages to pass, and of gradual ascent. We viewed, with astonishment, the masses of rock which had

been cut through. About half way, there is a fine work of modern times. It is a complete tunnel, running in another direction, one thousand feet long and thirty-six feet high, cut by the order of Buonaparte for the convenient conveyance of cattle. Workmen were employed night and day for six years in completing it. These rocks spoke praises of Napoleon; and indeed I may observe, that in the course of our journey, whatever we met with which was admirable, well contrived, or well regulated, it was Buonaparte's, and the Emperor was continually mentioned by the inhabitants. On leaving this pass, the mountains increase in height, and the air becomes cold; but as we approached Chambery it was milder. We passed a

fine cascade, which falls one hundred and twenty feet. The country surrounding Chambery is very fertile and well cultivated. The great quantity of mulberry trees reminds the traveller of the number of silk-worms with which Savoy abounds. They, however, who expect to see mulberries on the trees, will be disappointed, as they are cultivated only for the leaves;

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and what will appear very singular is, that a mulberry is rarely seen in these parts. From Chambery we passed to Mount Melian. The citadel is seen upon an eminence. We crossed the Isere, a rapid river, and then had the first sight of the snowdecked cliffs. On this side of Aiguibelle, the Arc joins the Isere. Aiguibelle is a village well situated. Near it are the ruins of a church and some houses, which were destroyed by a sudden falling of the earth and rocks from the top of the mountain. These accidents frequently occur in the Maurienne, where the snows accumulate, and the mountains being very high, while the valleys are narrow. The inhabitants are small in stature, and afflicted with goitres, which render them very deformed. The goitres are swellings in the neck, and in some are so large, that they hang upon their chest. Idiotism is also part of the disease. It is thought to be occasioned by drinking the snow-water. In many parts are ruins of fortifications. After passing La Chapelle, we walked a considerable way over a new road that was begun by Buonaparte, avoiding the old one, which,