A PHENOMENON IN ART.

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side appears sunk in the ground above six feet. It is built of marble, and has stood more than six hundred years without fissure or decay, having been raised in 1174. It is supposed to have sunk, when built, as high as the fifth story, and the architect had the boldness, and the skill, to complete it in the direction it had taken. One of my fellow-travellers thought he discovered that, from the fifth story, it took a more vertical line; but I could find no deviation of the inclined line from the base to the top. It is said, likewise, that the pillars on the leaning side were of greater elevation; but this does not appear founded in fact. Its form and proportions are graceful.

The cathedral was built in 1003, upon the ruins, it is said, and with the materials, of a palace of Aurelian. Its pillars are of various coloured marbles, granite, porphyry, &c. and some from a temple of Nero. It is composed, indeed, of treasures brought from various parts of the world by the victorious Pisanese; who, at one time, commanded Carthage, Naples, Sicily, Sardinia, Elba, &c. &c. Pisa is decorated

G

with their spoils. Over the choir is a representation in mosaic of Jesus and two Marys, sixty feet high. The altar is composed of lapis lazuli, verde antique, &c. &c. The bronze gates are beautifully sculptured by John of Bologna. There are also several statues executed by him. In the front is some exquisite Egyptian sculpture. The interior is decorated with many excellent paintings by Andrea del Sarto. The baptistry, which was raised at the public expense, is a detached building, and serves for the whole city. It is adorned also with Egyptian sculpture beautifully executed. The reading desk is supported by polished pillars of Elba granite, porphyry, and other curious marbles. The echo of this place is grand.

The Campo Santo, an elegant and magnificent cemetery, was the common burial place of the city. It contains some of the earliest specimens of Etruscan, Grecian, and Egyptian sculpture, and is adorned with paintings in fresco by Giotto and Cimabue. Among the busts are those of Achilles, Brutus, and Hadrian. A quantity of earth was brought to this place

its name.

THE TOWER OF UGOLINO.

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from the Holy Land, from which it derives There is an excellent botanical garden; and I must not omit to observe, that the celebrated tower is shown, where Count Ugolino and his four sons were starved to death, and which is so beautifully and affectingly described by Dante, in his Inferno*. Near Pisa is an aqueduct seven miles in length, and some baths. The origin of Pisa is supposed to have been anterior to the Trojan war. It is certainly the most ancient city of Etruria.

*Canto 33d

CHAPTER VII.

FROM PISA TO ROME.

As there is no mode of conveyance in Italy but by post, or the Vetturini, we fixed upon the former as the most expeditious. It was requisite therefore to buy a carriage; and one of my companions possessing the necessary knowledge, the purchase of one was left to him. Unfortunately, however, there was a small oversight, which was the cause of much trouble, vexation, and delay; and might have been attended with very serious consequences. The particulars I shall soon have occasion to notice. As our great object was Rome, we intended travelling night and day by the shortest road. From the similarity of scenery, I often fancied myself journeying in England; but a clear sky, a burning sun, and abundance of delicious fruits, reminded me I was not in my native land. Near La Scala is the village of St. Miniato,

the residence of the ancestors of Napoleon. Towards evening we arrived at Sienna, a celebrated city of Tuscany, situated on the summit of a mountain. It appears to have been built on the crater of a volcano, being subject to earthquakes; that of 1798, damaging most of its edifices. It is in the middle of beautiful hills, and the views from it are delightful.

On our arrival there was a grand annual fête celebrating in honour of the Virgin. The city appeared, on our entrance, to be deserted; but soon after we saw the inhabitants in their best attire returning in crowds from the place of justing, there having been a tournament. Many of them were dressed in the Roman costume, with the tunic, toga, helmet, &c. The victors in these games were led in triumph, followed by trains of carriages full of ladies decked with feathers and the gayest ornaments. The whole city seemed to be preparing for the evening's entertainments, and the people at our inn said they should be up all night. Being taken excessively ill, I found it was impossible for me to proceed that night, and this accident stopped our pro