CONTENTS.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE FINE ARTS.

INATTENTION of writers to the subject... The cultivation of
the Fine Arts necessary to form a great nation...Their
excellence springs from superiority of intellect... Report
on the Elgin marbles... The greatest empires indebted to
the Arts for their glory...State of the Arts arises from
the artist's exertions... Genius depressed... The artist's
qualifications...An artist's reflections... Artists, public
benefactors... The ladies of the present day indebted to
them... Happiness in the study of the Fine Arts... The
Greeks... Their feelings on the subject...Object of the
imitative arts...Analogy that exists... Extremes of the
Arts and Sciences...Advantages of the Fine Arts over the
sister arts, poetry, and the dramatic...Instanced in the
cartoons of Raffaelle and Greek sculpture... Virgil and
Homer...Kean and Kemble...General knowledge arising
from a study of the Fine Arts...Historical anecdotes...
Human happiness increased by a love of painting... The
way to live, instead of existing...On what excellence in
the Fine Arts depends... Cause of Raffaelle's superiority...
Contrasted with the Venetian school...Origin of the bad
subjects of pictures painted by the old masters... Paul
Veronese...British institution...Painting school in the
Royal Academy... Expression and character... Versatility

of talent injurious...English school of painting contrasted
with those of the French and Italian... Battle of Auster-
litz, by Gerard... The public, the only real patrons of art
...The artist and amateur...The elevation of the Fine
Arts, the object of all enlightened minds... The Elgin
marbles... Their beauty and effect on national taste...
The British fair...Government congratulated...Public esta-
blishments... The Royal Academy...Its origin...Its excel-
lence, to whom indebted... The British gallery...Cause of
its decline... Bad system of instruction in private tuition...
The cause... Superiority of the English school... Its emi-
nent professors... England possesses sufficient for its ad-
vancement. Page xxvii to lv.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTION.

NATIONAL prejudice against the French...Ignorance gives

birth to it... Propensity to finding fault in English visitors

...Its origin... Their false representations of the state of

things...English profusion...Cheapness of living... Charges

at a French hotel... Causes of the dissatisfaction of some

of the English in France...Anecdote... Comparison of the

French and Italians... The state of the two countries con-

trasted...Modes of travelling... Safety in France...Danger

in Italy...Present anarchy of Italy, compared with Tur-

key...Cautions in the choice of companions...Qualifica-

tions necessary... Relations of travellers on that sub-

ject... To travel armed, necessary in Italy... The bri-

gands... Their respect for the English...Conclusive ob-

servations. Page 1 to 12.

Object of the journey...Brighton... Charges of the boatmen...
Passage by sea... Anecdotes... The temporary superiority
a use to the sea gives the sailors... Reflections... A love of
superiority animates mankind...Instances in the different
classes of society...Virtue and knowledge...Intrigue and
cabal...Domestic vipers... The weak and stupid...Rank
and fortune... Affectation of hauteur...Aped by little
minds... Grand little folks... Dieppe, its general ap-
pearance...French women...Anecdote of an interesting
girl... Feelings of an Englishman, on his first visit
to France...General courtesy of the French...French
diligences compared with English stage coaches...Eng.
lish rage for neatness...Its consequences... Comparison
of the English and French higher and lower classes...
Causes of the inferiority of the higher classes of the
French... The despotism of the government...Government
influence, the cause of one dynasty so easily succeeding
another...Rouen... Ludicrous appearance in French tra-
velling...Anecdote...Idle tales of the French women...
First sight of Paris...Fine character of the present race
in France... Owing to the revolution... Emigrant nobility
...General character of the French women. Page 13 to
- 27.

CHAPTER III.

PARIS AND LYONS.

Reasons for not entering into a lengthened detail of Paris...
Wrong idea of the French, from publications by prejudiced
persons... English coldness...French liveliness... Their ridi-

cule of the untravelled English...Practical philosophy ne-

cessary in travelling...General sketch of Paris... Its magni-

ficence... Edifices... Monuments... Gardens... Curiosities...

Bustle of the streets...Amusements...Fine air and conse-

quent sensations...Treats for the sensualist... Food for the

intellectual... Best views of and in Paris... Charge of demo-

ralization against the present French... Compared with the

old Bourbon court... Anecdote...Journey to Lyons...Rous-

seau...Appearance of the country... Straight roads... Fon-

tainbleau... Anecdote... National feeling of the French...

Their enthusiastic love of Buonaparte... Anecdotes...Hills

...Picturesque scenery...Anecdote of a young woman...

Napoleon...Lyons...Its great men... Its ancient history....

Description of its present state... Situation... Climate...

Picturesque beauties... Edifices... Bridges... Curiosities...

Celebrated women... Charms of nature... Conclusive reflec-

tions. Page 28 to 46.

CHAPTER IV.

CROSSING THE ALPS.

Mountains of Savoy...Beauty of vegetation... Fruits... Grand

scenery... Valley of Eschelles... Grotto... Duke of Sa-

voy... Tunnel of Buonaparte... Chambery ... Cascade...

Mulberry trees... Mont Melian... The Isere... Aiguibelle

...The Arc...Avalanches... The inhabitants afflicted with

goitres...Causes...La Chapelle... New road... Scenery aw-

ful and grand...St. Jean de Maurienne...Its situation...

The air cold...Torrents... Cascades... Snow-decked cliffs...

Mountains well cultivated...Lanslebourg...Savoy women

...Mont Cenis... Napoleon... The grandeur of his ideas and

works...Grand road...Plain on Mont Cenis...Hannibal

...Descent into Italy...Feelings on entering...Suza...

Hercules...Hannibal...Vale of Suza...Rivoli...Fruits...

Canals...The Dora Ripuaria. Page 47 to 58.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

xi

TURIN, ALESSANDRIA, and Genoa.

Turin... Its fortifications... General appearance... Architec-

ture... Decorations... Manufactures... Climate...King of

Sardinia... Alessandria... Its citadel and bridge improved

by Napoleon... Processions... Marengo... Novi... The Boc-

chetta... Fine views... Rich scenery... Genoa...Similitude

of the inhabitants to the English... The Genoese, a noble

race...The Sardinian government detested... The city like

a besieged town... The soldiers and effigy of the king

openly insulted... Treatment of the English by the Sar-

dinian government...Police and consuls... Their ma-

nœuvring, exactions, &c... The English consul...Adored

by the Genoese... His noble conduct...Genoese labourers

...Streets...Houses and palaces, general appearance...

Church of Carignano...Bridge...Genoese mode of termi-

nating existence... Former power of Genoa...Genoese

citizens... Their independent spirit... Their complaints

against England's ministers...Their love for the English

people. Page 59 to 71.

CHAPTER VI.

THE FEULUcca, leghoRN, AND PISA.

Ceremony of taking leave... Men kissing each other...Medi-
terranean sea... Comforts of an Italian feulucca compared
...Amusements and pleasing occupations... Fleas...Tor-
ment from them...Bold shore...Mode of catching fish...
Porto Fino...Clearness and colour of the water...Etrurian
coast...Porto di Venere... Apennines... Fine appearance...
Padrone...Napoleon... Believed to be dead by the Ita-