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country, which greatly interferes with the prospects of publishers and literary men, and which, perhaps, it would be as well not to touch until we cnlarge our own literary boundaries, and extend to those engaged within them some additional facilities and securities. From what we see, the balance of trade is already against us, and we are not so certain that, in a literary point of view, we can even hold our own, much less gain anything upon our rivals, until something is done for the protection of authors. Hitherto, we may have had our doubts in regard to the propriety and the general effects of an international law on the subject of literary property; and although we do not intend to argue the question now, we are, nevertheless, prepared to say we believe it should be first settled before we " throw our ports open" entirely to a competition which appears to be as unjust to parties in our own country as it is to similar professions in Europe.
THE “ Evening Argus” says, “Among the proceedings of the United States Senate, we observe the presentation of a petition from the artists and other citizens of the city of Philadelphia, asking that P. F. Rothermel, of this city, may be selected to paint one of the National Pictures that are to adorn the walls of the Capitol. We take great pleasure in seconding the appeal, as we are confident that to no artist could the task be confided with more certainty of its being executed with credit to the national character than to Mr. Rothermel.”
CONCERT ANECDOTE.-A lady attending & concert was greatly annoyed, during the performance of a favorite symphony of Beethoven, by some young persons who sat immediately behind her, and who, by their incessant chatter, gave equal displeasure to all around them. The party thus offending consisted of a young lady and two young gentlemen, who affected all that indifference for the de lightful music, and for the presence of those who had come to enjoy it, which is too often assumed as an evidence of superior intellect, and of an elevated class. For, doubt of the fact as we may, there are many otherwise good-hearted people who think it vulgar to evince the least feeling or sentiment at a public concert or musical soirée. But to return. When all was over, the lady alluded to above leaned across one seat, and catching the eye of the girl, who was pretty and well dressed, said, in her blandest, gentlest voice, “May I speak with you one moment ?” “Certainly," said the young lady, with a flattered, pleased look, bending forward. “I only wish to say," said the interrogator, " that I trust, in the whole course of your life, you will not suffer so great a degree of annoyance as you have inflicted on a large party of lovers of music this evening!”
this day, not one brick clings to another of that modest structure-the once renowned Indian Quren Hotel!
A few days after this incident, if such it may be called, our business required our presence in New York--we say our business, because we wish it to be understood that we never travel except on actual business, unless it be over the fields, and over the hills and far away,” in company with our little namesakes and a few other young competitors in the walk and the race. But, arrived at New York, what was our astonishment, when conducted by a friend to the Metropolitan Hotel, at beholding its magnificent exterior, and its still more magnificent interior, with all its “ modern fixtures" and gorgeous appliances, such as Thomas Jeffer son, though a wonderfully progressivo writer in his time, and especially progressive while laying out his plans of progress in the old Indian Queen, never could have dreamed of, although he might have been reading the “ Arabian Nights Entertainments" just before he went to sleep! Entertainment! Ah, here is entertainment, indeed! but not " for man and horse," as there was in Mr. Jefferson's time, but for man and woman, or, to speak in more modern English, for “ ladies and gentlemen of the highest degree." Here, too, is evidence of progressive independence; for, as we were told--we had not time to count-this establishment, which is six stories high, contains over five hundred rooms, one hundred of which are suites of rooms, each suite embracing parlor, bedroom, dressing-room, bath-room, etc., and all supplied with hot and cold water, so that indi. viduals and families may live perfectly independent of each other and of the outside world. Leading to these rooms, and through the immense building, there is one mile of halls and passages elegantly painted, "and more than five miles of pipes to convey the gas, hot and cold water, and steam to warm the building, to every part." The furniture of this building, unique and rich, cost $150,000; silver-ware, $14,000; mirrors, $15,000, two of which, intended for the dining-hall, cover one hundred square feet each. The captions of the dining-hall windows are ornamented with the coat of arms of every principal nation on earth. In addition to these costly decorations, the purest designs, formed in the purest and most costly marblo, have been brought into requieition under the best artists.
This new and splendid hotel, which it is presunned has not its equal in the world, is now under the management of the brothers Leland, who have learned the business of hotel-keeping pretty much in the way we have learned the business of magazine-publishing-by minding their own business, and attending strictly to fulfilling all their pra mises made to the public.
The Metropolitan Hotel is situate at the northeast corner of Broadway and Prince Street, on the site of Niblo's Gar den, three hundred and sixty feet on Broadway, and two hundred and ten feet on Prince Street. The cost of the building has been estimated at near half a million of dollarg. It will be a pleasure to the public to know that the management of such an immense and magnificent esta blishment could not have been placed in worthier hands.
The engraving in the front part of our "Book" for the present month, is an exact representation of the building we have attempted to describe.
METROPOLITAN HOTEL, BROADWAY, NEW YORK. — Passing along Fourth Street a short time since, while rather in a patriotic mood, we turned for a moment to contemplate the once famous Indian Queen Hotel, where, in the olden time, the defenders and founders of our country resorted for consultation and for earthly comforts, and in a retired room of which it is said Mr. Jefferson drew up the original draft of the immortal Declaration of Independence. We were preparing our mind to contrast its plain walls and windows, its breadth and its height, with the splendid and magnif. cent mansions in which our great men and our rich men of the present day do mostly congregate, and where taste and modern refinement, where art, luxury, case, and ele gance have combined all their powers to minister to the wantk and comforts of the present generation. But, alas! the ancient front, which had long been shrinking and tottering with age, was coming down with a crash; and, at
TJE KNICKERBOCKER.—The following announcement was made in the “Knickerbocker Magazine" for May. The editor of that able magazine has our best wishes for the success of his gossip, which, unlike that of most of the tribe of gossipers, has always been a source of pleasure, as well as of information, to those who have listened to its expressive and feeling tones and gentle admonitions. To doubt
TO PRESERVE FLOWERS IN WATER.--Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight.
TO RESTORE COLOR TAKEN OUT BY ACIDS.–Sal volatile or hartshorn will suffice for this purpose. It may be dropped on silk without doing any injury.
HOARSENESS.--A piece of flannel, dipped in brandy, and applied to the chest, and covered with a dry flannel, is to be worn all night. Four or six small onions, boiled, and put on buttered toast, and eaten for supper, are likewise good for colds on the chest.
the success of such “knick-knacks" as will be distributed from the editorial table of the “Knickerbocker," would be about equal to doubting the success of the “Knickerbocker" itself, which, happily, is one of the fixed literary facts of American history. But read for yourself the pleasant announcement of the forthcoming pleasantries :-
“GOSSIP WITH READERS AND CORRESPONDENTS.— Friends, old friends, let us impart a fond secret to you. We won't say that you ‘mustn't let it go any further,' because you can pass it on' as fast and as far as you like. There is in the press of the Messrs. Appletons a volume, to be followed by another, entitled . Knick-knacks from an Editor's Table, by L. Gaylord Clark.' It has been prepared at the suggestion of many friends, the favorable judgment of several of whom would do honor to a far worthier literary project. During sixteen years, sitting alone or with company in the sanctum, or circulating in society, we have seen and heard much to awaken mirth, and felt much that has awakened tears. Looking back now upon these records, almost forgotten, we find that they seem new even to us, and the old emotions with which they were originally jotted down come back again freshly upon us. Now, any one man who feels and enjoys, who can neither resist laughter nor forbid tears that will out and must have vent, such an one, it seems to us, is simply an epitome of the public.
“ So thinking, and so hoping, we have gone back over the long, long period during which we have gossiped with our readers, and have segregated from our pages such passages as interested us most when we wrote them; and, as there will be at least no lack of variety, and abundant contrast, we trust to be able to make our humble 'venture' acceptable to readers generally. One thing we can at least promise, and that is that, however far short it may fall of excellence, it shall certain nothing that may offend; while in the character of its execution, its distinct divisions, largeness of type, quality of paper, etc., the publishers will leave nothing to be desired. Our brother editors who may approve of our little project will lay us under an obligation, which we shall be only too happy to reciprocate, if they will copy into their columns this brief programme of our design. Tell your readers, gentlemen, please, that we shall try to present for their acceptance a work that shall be a various and pleasant companion for the rail-car, the steamboat, and the fireside."
TO MAKE EAU-DE-COLOGNE.-Rectified spirits of wine, four pints; oil of bergamot, one ounce; oil of lemon, half an ounce; oil of rosemary, half a drachm; oil of Neroli, threequarters of a drachm; oil of English lavender, one drachm; oil of oranges, one drachm. Mix well, and then filter. If these proportions are too large, smaller ones may be used.
A VERY PLEASANT PERFUME, AND ALSO PREVENTIVE AGAINST MOTHS.-Take of cloves, caraway seeds, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and Tonquin beans, of each one ounce; then add as much Florentine orris-root as will equal the other ingredients put together. Grind the whole well to powder, and then put it in little bags, among your clothes, &c.
LADIES, BEWARE.—The use of white paint as a cosmetic affects the eyes, which it renders painful and watery. It changes the texture of the skin, on which it produces pimples; attacks the teeth, destroys the enamel, and loosens them. It heats the mouth and throat, infecting and corrupting the saliva. Lastly, it penetrates the pores of the skin, acting by degrees on the spongy substance of the lungs, and inducing disease. Powdered magnesia, or violet powder, is no further injurious than by stopping the pores of the skin; but this is quite injury enough to preclude its use. The best cosmetics are early hours, exercise, and temperance.
ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS.-It gives us great pleasure to state that the exhibition of this institution for the present year opened with a display of paintings and statuary more brilliant and interesting than on any preceding year since its foundation. This fact affords us most gratifying evidence that our citizens are becoming every year more and more sensible of the refining and elevating influences of the fine arts upon the general characteristics of our country. The present display ern braces a collection from the works of the best European and American artists, among which are several masterly productions, the private property of the stockholders. This institution is, indeed, one of the crowning glories of Philadelphia, not merely affording at all times a quiet retreat for those who love to contemplate the wonderful efforts of genius in its imitations and in its emulations of the truthfulness of Nature, but also as a place to which Genius itself may retreat, in order to reanimate its drooping energies, and rekindle its flickering hopes of fame. For, aside from its magnificent collection of paintings, etc., the liberality extended by the Academy to artists and to scholars is of the greatest importance in securing to country those trophies of native genius which, in time to come, will form a portion of her imperishable renown.
AN EXCELLENT DISH.-- Potatoes à la Maitre d Hotel: Boil the potatoes, and let them become cold; then cut them into rather thick slices. Put a lump of fresh butter into a stewpan, and add a little flour-about a teaspoonful for a middling-sized dish. When the flour has boiled a little while in butter, add by degrees a cupful of broth or water; when this has boiled up, put in the potatoes, with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Let the potatoes stew a few minutes, then take them from the fire, and when quite off the boil add the yolk of an egg beat up with a little lemon juice and a tablespoonful of cold water. As soon as the sauce has set, the potatoes may be dished up and sent to table,
CREASES may be removed from velvet by passing the under side of the velvet over a warm smoothing iron. Let one person hold the velvet tight, and another pass the iron; then spread out the garment, and brush gently, yet briskly, with a velvet brush.
TO CLEAN LACQUER.Make a paste of starch, one part; powdered rottenstone, twelve parts; sweet oil, two parts; oxalic acid, one part; water to mix,
Not that I mean to say Longchamps should be dethroned, but that Longchamps depends altogether on the caprice of the ladies and the planets. If the sun refuses to smile on it, and assumes a dark frown instead, adieu to Longchamps! In that case, it will only be escorted by a few republican guards, fine brave fellows in their way, no doubt, but, in my opinion, not to be compared to all the fairy creations of fancy and caprice.”
So much for the eloquence of a French modiste, on an allimportant theme in the world of fashion; and so much for our argument against wet weather displays. The safest rule is to follow Nature, and bring out your spring ribbons and your gauzy tissues with her fluttering foliage, remembering always
“One violet doesn't make a summer."
LONGCHAMPS. We have been frequently asked, What is the proper season for spring bonnets, and when should crape shawls be laid aside? The exact time for the blooming of a spring wardrobe is a debatable question among our city and country belles: the present season, for instance, when lace bonnets and tissue robes reposed so long in the wardrobes of the purchasers, who still went clad in furs and velvets.
Some, to be sure, did not look beyond the almanac, and shivered in their finery; and this is often done without a thought of the appropriateness of the dress for the day. So, through the season, crape bonnets are sported wet or dry, umbrellas drip over thulle, and light silks trail upon a mud-stained pavement. In the last instance, a glaring ignorance of propriety is noticeable-a vulgarity of display, we had almost said. This is admirably corrected in a line from a French journal des modes—" Another bonne suitable for fine weather," etc. etc.: it especially prefaces the description with a supposition that it will not be worn at any other time. A French woman does not confine herself to one expensive bonnet, to be worn on all occasions-the inconsistency is purely American. An English woman rarely ventures on a dress-bonnet in walking-costume. It is intended for the carriage alone; a close cottage shape of straw, with dark ribbons, answers hier turn.
As to the time when this change is to be made, all Paris waits for its spring costumes until the Fête de Longchamps, which occurs in May. On that important day, the boulevards are thronged with four miles of beauty and fashion, up through the Champs Elysées to the Bois de Boulogne. Hear what the clever “ American in Paris” says of it:
“Formerly, the cause of going to Longchamps was to say maas; now it is the variation of a sleeve. The chief concern of the day is the exhibition of pretty women in open barouches, clad in the splendors and novelties of the season. The dresses of Longchamps, like Cæsar's, go forth upon the whole earth, and it is the only tribunal that can claim upon earth this extensive jurisdiction.”
So much for Longchamps in 1836, when the principal changes of fashion were mutton sleeves for the wide bishop, and the lengthening of dress skirts to conceal the ankle. But this Longchamps has also its homage to the season, for what says the " Moniteur" of the spring of 1862?-
“Longchamps is now close at hand. It is much talked of in the world of fashion. But is it really Longchamps that proclaims such and such a dress or mantle? I can hardly believe so, though I am by no means inclined to derogate from its past glory. Sometimes at Longchamps the weather is gloomy and wet; elegant ladies, frightened by the chilling blast, wrap their persons in Indian cashmeres, and do not venture to exhibit the wonders of fashion. The consequence is, therefore, that Longchamps is often less gay, less animated, less elegant, and less magnificent than the ordinary daily parade in the Bois de Boulogne and the Champs Elysées, when the sun shines bright and the blue sky speaks of spring. What! some one will exclaim, do you dare to attack Longchamps? do you rail against it? What will Fashion say? Fashion knows well enough that I am right, and will approve of what I say.
POETICAL ENIGMAS. Miss Annie S. Ashton has our thanks for the following response to the Poetical Enigma in our last :
When tolled the fearful tower bell
The dirge for Lady Gray-
And on her foes dirmay,
Ere fell the fearful shock,
To view the headsman's block !
The gentle lady stands;
Upraised her claspéd hands;
For that sweet form were spread,
Is laid her fair young head.
If thus its pumbers move,
No blockhead I shall prove.
WIIAT 'S TO BE DONE WITH THE CHILDREN?
That ever we, as a Lady's Book, should be compelled to hold up deprecating hands in a plea for the nursery! That we should find, upon our cheerful centre-table, so lamentable a cry as the one now claiming our response! “ What's to be done with the children? indeed! poor, little weary dears, finding no rest for their feet!" What's to be done with the distracted parents ? also becomes a serious consideration; but we give our correspondent's letter as it lies in our contribution-basket, scaled ominously with a Shakspearian motto-wafer" Sorrow ends not when it seemeth done"-soliciting advice or suggestion for the unhappy writer from any quarter whatever :
“PHILADELPHIA, June 10. “ Your kind heart will perhaps excuse the liberty taken by a stranger, in addressing the presiding genius of "Go
dey's Centre-Table. I apply to you, as a last resource, to suggest, if possible, some way of disposing my five precious innocents for the summer months. The baby is teething, poor dear! and the doctor especially recommends change of air: indeed, he says he cannot answer for the consequences, if we remain in the city another month. John and Jane-the twins--have never fairly recovered from the measles ; Augusta looks delicate; and, now that Philip is out of school, he leaves me no peace of my life, tearing about the house, and making donkey-carts of the clothesbaskets and his brother and sisters. In the country, this playful exuberance would pass unnoticed. But in vain have we advertised-searched-scoured the country over. of the fifty-seven applications we have made, fifty-four return answer that they have made up their minds not to take children this season; and the other three allow them no privileges of grounds or garden, poor loves !
“What does all this mean, my dear madam? Whence this coalition of boarding house keepers against these unoffending innocents! Their country wardrobes are preparod; their father stands ready, purse in hand, to discharge any reasonable demand; and I await in tortured anxiety the daily blasting of hopes which the morning's * Ledger has excited. I read of desirable accommodations,' "charming neighborhood,' unsurpassed conveniencer,' but to be told that the ban of proscription is passed upon my interesting family. What is to be done with the children? Cannot you aid in dissipating this unfounded prejudice agninst such injured loveliness ?
“ P. S. I inclose a pen and ink drawing of my Philip, in the straw hat purchased in Second Street, to save his lovely complexion in the country he seems destined never to visit, that you may see, from his prepossessing countenance, how little my eldest born deserves such excommunication."
ed articles to a smoke of powdered brimstone. Put glowing coals in a small tin or iron pan, and strew the powder upon them. The old-fashioned foot-stoves answer the purpose admirably, the smoke escaping through the punctures of the tin. This is said to be effectual in the cleansing of closets, safes, etc., infected with ants, and is, at least, worth & trial.
SWEETMEATS.-As the season for putting up sweetmeats approaches, all young housekeepers should be adınonished to see to the jars themselves, and, if possible, not to trust any part of the process to a servant. It is much better to put them up in large, plain glass tumblers, one or two of which will be sufficient to fill a cut-ylass dish, so that there will be none wasted. Besides, you can more easily watch them to prevent fermentation, china or earthen jars being, of course, opaque. There is no absolute necessity of laying a brandied paper over thein, although many think so: if well done, with a full allowance of sugar, there will be little danger from fermentation.
THE BUSINESS OF BEING BEAUTIFUL. We commend the following notes on the "business of being beautiful” to the attention of our younger ladies, who are just commencing a self-forming process of character. We know it is rather a new doctrine; that the world, as a general thing, will cry it down under the name of vanity; but we separate the consciousness of giving plea
by grace or delicacy from the vulgar pride in physical advantages, to whieh, and their display, the name more properly belongs. It is not a selfish motive, that of giving pleasure to others, and every one knows that " a thing of beauty is a joy forever.” The “Quarterly is a good authority, moreover, and we quote from the “Quarterly;" 80, ladies, it is your duty to be beautiful, whether you like it or no.
* Man's face is bound to be clean, and may be allowed to be picturesque; but it is a woman's business to be beautiful. Beauty of some kind is so much the attribute of the sex, that a woman can hardly be said to feel herself a woman who has not, at one time of her life, at all events, felt herself to be fair. Beauty confers an education of its own, and that always a feminine one. Most celebrated beautics bare owed their highest charms to the refining education which their native ones have given them. It was the wisdom as well as the poetry of the age of chivalry that it supposed all women to be beautiful, and treated them as such.
“What can be more false or cruel than the common plan of forcing upon a young girl the withering conviction of her own plainness? If this be only a foolish sham to counteract the supposed demoralizing consciousness of beauty, the world will soon counteract that; but, if the victim bave really but a scanty supply of charms, it will, in addition to incalculable anguish of mind, only diminish those further still. To such a system alone can we ascribe an unhappy anomalous style of young woman, occasionally met with, who seems to have taken on herself the vows of voluntary ugliness—who neither eats enough to keep her complexion clear, nor smiles enough to set her pleasing muscles in action-who prides herself on a skinny parsimony of attire which she calls neatness—thinks that alone respectable which is most unbecoming—is always thin, and seldom well, and passes through the society of the lovely, the graceful, and the happy, with the vanity that apes humility on her poor disappointed countenance, as if to say, Stand back, I am uneomelier than thou!""
HOUSEKEEPER'S KEY S. No. II. According to our promise in the June number, we commence a series of household hints, under the above title; many of them are original, and all valuable, we believe.
DISINFECTANTS.—Do our lady readers understand the simple theory of disinfectants? Every housekeeper has had occasion to use chloride of lim half a pound to five gallons of water, is the quantity recommended by a very able chemist. Aromatic vinegar poured upon a heated iron plate is perhaps the pleasantest of all, though not always to be had, or remarkably economical. The cheapest, and, at the same time, one of the most convenient and agreeable of all, is common coffee. Pound the well-dried raw bean in a mortar, and strew the powder on a moderately heated iron plate. Just traversing the house with a roaster containing freshly burned coffee will clear it from all offensive smells.
Mothe.---When there has been a lack of precaution in putting away woolens, or moths have colonized in furniturc, we know of no better remedy than to subject the infect
NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.
Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Mitress of the Fashion Department will hereafter exccute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required, Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake boxes, envelops, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.
Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for the amount, and the early execution of commissions.
Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's, bonnets from Miss Wharton's, jewelry from Bailey's, Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.
DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATS
dress, composed of a vest to be worn with a skirt of plaid Organdy muslin, pink and white, the plaid rather large-made very full, but plain. The vest is of white embroidered cambric, lined with white Florence silk; it has a short basquc, and the skirt is disposed en chemisctte. The basque and sleeves, which are demi-long, are trimmed with a rich fall of lace. The chemisette itself is of full muslin folds, with a ruche about the throat. Hair drossed in a high twist on the back of the head, with full bandleaux at the side, rosettes and flowing ends of velvet. This costume is at once simple and elegant, and is espe cially suited to a young girl.
Fig. 22.-Walking-dress of lavender silk, the skirt full, with three deep flounces; each flounce is edged, not headed, by a double puffing of silk. The corsage is terminated by a not very long or sharp point, and opens en Marquise, with an embroidered chemisette. Sleeves open, demi-long, and edged with a double ruffle of the silk; undersleeves in pulls. A white drawn bonnet, is composed of silk and blonde, and ornamented by a close bouquet of blush roses and foliage. In the street, the costume is finished by a black silk mantilla, trimmed with lace.
The child's dress is of embroidered cambric, the sleeves tied with bows of wide blue ribbon. It will be noticed that the sash is once more in favor, and broader than ever.
Lace application is now applied to mantillas with great success. It is done by drawing a border on the silk, which is first cut after a scarf pattern, and lining the silk with common cotton net lace of the same shade. This pattern is followed by tacking a narrow silk braid on the outline, and cutting out the silk, leaving the centre of the pattern in lace. It has a very light and graceful effect, but is scarcely suited for anything but a scarf pattern. We have already described a still neater style of lace insertion. (See June number.)
The favorite colors for mantillas continue to be white, black, and lavender; some in muslin have been seen, and one in exquisite taste, which we must describe to our lady realers. The mantle itself is of the finest Swiss muslin, with a vine of fine embroidery encircling it. There is a small circular hood that can be brought into use, also richly embroidered, and fastened by a bow of pure white ribbon with flowing ends. The mantle and hood are lined with the softest white Florence silk, and altogether has an air of indescribable grace and lightness. For a watering. place, nothing could be in better taste, or more really use ful, to be thrown on for short promenades, with a dinner or evening-dress, or after dancing. It may be lined with pink, violet, green, or any shade that suits the fancy.
Speaking of watering-places reminds us of a very neat style of travelling bonnets brought out by Miss Wharton, or rather a favorite style revival. It is a cusing, or drawn hat of fine brown grass cloth, a close but not unbecoming shape, trimmed by a double ruché of blue ribbon on the outside, and nauds and strings of the same inside the brim. Straw travelling bonnets have been worn so long, that this will be welcomed as a change. For barèges, Organdy mus. lins, or, indeed, thin tissues of any kind. Miss Wharton has adopted the “infant waist;" a belt slightly rounded behind and before, scarcely more than a slope, indeed; the slight fulness of the waist has perhaps three shirts, drawn with fine cord; the lining is cut out at the throat. This gives a simple and graceful air, especially suited to young ladies. A collar, pointed in style, and of slight depth, is attached to the open corsages of older ladies. Small bishop sleeves, with cuffs, are used for morning-dresses, which saves the trouble of a cambric undersleeve, and are really very neat. The ordinary pagoda, or loose sleeve, is still in use for tbin dresses. We have seen an Organdy muslin finished by ruffles of the same, they being headed by a fine edge of Valenciennes lace. Others are made cut up, or rounding up on the inside of the arm, instead of towards the elbow, as described in May.
Thick wbite silks, either of moire d'antique or with a heavy cord, remain still in favor for bridal dresses, relieved by having the corsage and sleeves covered with light puffings of thulle or blonde. The dress of Lady Constance, youngest daughter of the Duke of Sutherland, recently married to the oldest son of the Marquis of Westminster, was of white satin, with guipure flounces. The head-dress was of white roses, entwined with orange and myrtle, and a splendid guipore veil falling almost to her feet. The corsage and sleeves were of lace, and the ornaments were a magnificent carbuncle set in brilliants, the gift of the queen, and a necklace of pearls, diamonds, and emeralds.
Rather an extravagant costume for a young lady, and quotol not for imitation, but as a matter of simple feminine interest.
CHITCHAT ON PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS
So many of our fair ladies have deserted the town for the country, that our shops are “halls deserted.” This and the succeeding months have few decided changes. Almost every one has finished her summer wardrobe, and is not yet thinking of fall costumes ; so there is little to bo chronicled, save a fow novelties in mantillas, lingerie, etc. ote.