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country, which greatly interferes with the prospects of this day, not one brick clings to another of that modest publishers and literary men, and which, perhaps, it would § structure--the once renowned Indian Quren Hotel! be as well not to touch until we enlarge our own literary A few days after this incident, if such it may be called, boundaries, and extend to those engaged within them some our business required our presence in New York-We say additional facilities and securities. From what we see, the our business, because we wish it to be understood that we balance of trade is already against us, and we are not so never travel except on actual business, unless it be over the certain that, in a literary point of view, we can even hold f ields, and “over the bills and far away,” in company with our own, much less gain anything upon our rivals, until our little namesakes and a few other young competitors in something is done for the protection of authors. Hitherto, the walk and the race. But, arrived at New York, what we may have had our doubts in regard to the propriety and was our astonishment, when conducted by a friend to the the general effects of an international law on the subject Metropolitan Hotel, at beholding its magnificent exterior, of literary property; and although we do not intend to and its still more magnificent interior, with all its * modern argue the question now, we are, nevertheless, prepared to fixtures" and gorgeous appliances, such as Thomas Jeffer say we believe it should be first settled before we “ throw son, though a wonderfully progressive writer in his time, our ports open" entirely to a competition which appears to and especially progressive while laying out his plans of be as unjust to parties in our own country as it is to simi progress in the old Indian Queen, never could have dreamed lar professions in Europe.

of, although he might have been reading the “ Arabian

Nights Entertainments” just before he went to sleep! THE “ Evening Argus" says, “ Among the proceedings of Entertainment! Ah, here is entertainment, indeed! but the United States Senate, we observe the presentation of a } not “ for man and horse," as there was in Mr. Jefferson's petition from the artists and other citizens of the city of time, but for man and woman, or, to speak in more modern Philadelphia, asking that P. F. Rothermel, of this city, may English, for “ladies and gentlemen of the highest degree." be selected to paint one of the National Pictures that are to Here, too, is evidence of progressive independence; for, as adorn the walls of the Capitol. We take great pleasure in we were told-we had not time to count-this establishseconding the appeal, as we are confident that to no artist ment, which is six stories high, contains over five hundred could the task be confided with more certainty of its being rooms, one hundred of which are suites of rooms, each executed with credit to the national character than to Mr. suite embracing parlor, bedroom, dressing-room, bath-room, Rothermel."

etc., and all supplied with hot and cold water, so that indi.

viduals and families may live perfectly independent of CONCERT ANECDOTE.-A lady attending a concert was each other and of the outside world. Leading to tbese greatly annoyed, during the performance of a favorite sym rooms, and through the immense building, there is one phony of Beethoven, by some young persons who sat imme mile of halls and passages elegantly painted, "and more diately behind her, and who, by their incessant chatter, than five miles of pipes to convey the gas, hot and cold gave equal displeasure to all around them. The party water, and steam to warm the building, to every part." thus offending consisted of a young lady and two young

The furniture of this building, unique and rich, cos! gentlemen, who affected all that indifference for the de $160,000; silver-ware, $14,000; mirrors, $15,000, two of lightful music, and for the presence of those who had come which, intended for the dining-hall, cover one hundred to enjoy it, which is too often assumed as an evidence of square feet each. The captions of the dining-hall windows superior intellect, and of an elevated class. For, doubt of are ornamented with the coat of arins of every principal the fact as we may, there are many otherwise good-hearted nation on earth. In addition to these costly decorations, people who think it vulgar to evince the least feeling or the purest designs, formed in the purest and most costly sentiment at a public concert or musical soirée. But to marble, have been brought into requieition under the best return. When all was over, the lady alluded to above artists. leaned across one seat, and catching the eye of the girl, who This new and splendid hotel, which it is presumed has was pretty and well dressed, said, in her blandest, gentlest not its equal in the world, is now under the management voice, “May I speak with you one moment ?” “Certainly," of the brothers Leland, who have learned the business of said the young lady, with a flattered, pleased look, bending hotel-keeping pretty much in the way we have learned the forward. “I only wish to say," said the interrogator, business of magazine-publishing--by minding their own " that I trust, in the whole course of your life, you will not business, and attending strictly to fulfilling all their pro suffer so great a degree of annoyance as you have inflicted mises made to the public. on a large party of lovers of music this evening ?"

The Metropolitan Hotel is situate at the northeast corner of Broadway and Prince Street, on the site of Niblo's Gar

den, three hundred and sixty feet on Broadway, and two METROPOLITAN HOTEL, BROADWAY, NEW YORK. - Passing

hundred and ten feet on Prince Street. The cost of the along Fourth Street a short time since, while rather in a

building has been estimated at near half a million of dolpatriotic mood, we turned for a moment to contemplate the

lars. It will be a pleasure to the public to know that the once famous Indian Queen Hotel, where, in the olden time,

management of such an immense and magnificent esta the defenders and founders of our country resorted for con

blishment could not have been placed in worthier bands. fultation and for earthly comforts, and in a retired room

The engraving in the front part of our “Book" for the of which it is said Mr. Jefferson drew up the original draft

present month, is an exact representation of the building of the immortal Declaration of Independence. We were

Ś we have attempted to describe. preparing our mind to contrast its plain walls and windows, its breadth and its height, with the splendid and magnitcent mansions in which our great men and our rich men THE KNICKERBOCKER.-The following announcement was of the present day do mostly congregate, and where taste made in the “Knickerbocker Magazine" for May. The and modern refinement, where art, luxury, ease, and elo editor of that able magazine has our best wishes for the gance have coinbined all their powers to minister to the success of his gossip, which, unlike that of most of the tribe wants and comforts of the present generation. But, alas! of gossipers, has always been a source of pleasure, as well the ancient front, which had long been shrinking and tot as of information, to those who have listened to its expres. tering with age, was coming down with a crash; and, at sive and foeling tones and gentle admonitions. To doubt

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the success of such "knick-knacks" as will be distributed from the editorial table of the “Knickerbocker," would be about equal to doubting the success of the “Knicker

Receipts, &c. bocker" itself, which, happily, is one of the fixed literary facts of American history. But read for yourself the plea

TO PRESERVE FLOWERS IN WATER.--Mix a little carbonate sant announcement of the forthcoming pleasantries :

of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for “GOSSIP WITH READERS AND CORRESPONDENTS.--Friends, old

& fortnight. friends, let us impart a fond secret to you. We won't say

TO RESTORE COLOR TAKEN OUT BY ACIDS.-Sal volatile or that you mustn't let it go any further,' because you can pass it on' as fast and as far as you like. There is in the

hartshorn will suffice for this purpose. It may be dropped press of the Messrs. Appletons a volume, to be followed by

on silk without doing any injury. another, entitled . Knick-Knacks from an Editor's Table, by L. Gaylord Clark.' It has been prepared at the suggestion

HOARSENESS.--A piece of flannel, dipped in brandy, and of many friends, the favorable judgment of several of whom

applied to the chest, and covered with a dry flannel, is to would do honor to a far worthier literary project. During

be worn all night. Four or six small onions, boiled, and sixteen years, sitting alone or with company in the sanc

put on buttered toast, and eaten for supper, are likewise tum, or circulating in society, we have seen and heard

good for colds on the chest. much to awaken mirth, and felt much that has awakened tears. Looking back now upon these records, almost for

TO MAKE EAU-DE-COLOGNE.—Rectified spirits of wine, four gotten, we find that they seem new even to us, and the old

pints; oil of bergamot, one ounce; oil of lemon, half an emotions with which they were originally jotted down

ounce; oil of rosemary, half a drachm; oil of Neroli, threecome back again freshly upon us. Now, any one man who

quarters of a drachm; oil of English lavender, one drachm; feels and enjoys, who can neither resist laughter nor forbid

oil of oranges, one drachm. Mix well, and then filter. If tears that will out and must have vent, such an one, it

these proportions are too large, smaller ones may be used. seems to us, is simply an epitome of the public.

“So thinking, and so hoping, we have gone back over A VERY PLEASANT PERFUME, AND ALSO PREVENTIVE AGAINST the long, long period during which we have gossiped with MOTHS.-Take of cloves, caraway seeds, nutmeg, mace, cinour readers, and have segregated from our pages such pas namon, and Tonquin beans, of each one ounce; then add sages as interested us most when we wrote them; and, as as much Florentine orris-root as will equal the other ingrethere will be at least no lack of variety, and abundant con- dients put together. Grind the whole well to powder, and trast, we trust to be able to make our humble ó venture 3

to make our humble 'venture' then put it in little bags, among your clothes, &c. acceptable to readers generally. One thing we can at least promise, and that is that, however far short it may fall of excellence, it shall catain nothing that may offend; while

LADIES, BEWARE.-The use of white paint as a cosmetic in the character of its execution, its distinct divisions, large

affects the eyes, which it renders painful and watery. It ness of type, quality of paper, etc., the publishers will leave

changes the texture of the skin, on which it produces pimnothing to be desired. Our brother editors who may ap. }

ples; attacks the teeth, destroys the enamel, and loosens prove of our little project will lay us under an obligation,

them. It heats the mouth and throat, infecting and corwhich we shall be only too happy to reciprocate, if they

rupting the saliva. Lastly, it penetrates the pores of the will copy into their columns this brief programme of our

skin, acting by degrees on the spongy substance of the design. Tell your readers, gentlemen, please, that we shall

lungs, and inducing disease. Powdered magnesia, or violet try to present for their acceptance a work that shall be a

powder, is no further injurious than by stopping the pores various and pleasant companion for the rail-car, the steam

of the skin; but this is quite injury enough to preclude its boat, and the fireside."

use. The best cosmetics are early hours, exercise, and

temperance. ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS.-It gives us great pleasure to state that the exhibition of this institution for the present

AN EXCELLENT DISH.--Potatoes a la Maitre a Hotel: Boil year opened with a display of paintings and statuary more

the potatoes, and let them become cold; then cut them brilliant and interesting than on any preceding year since

into rather thick slices. Put a lump of fresh butter into a its foundation. This fact affords us most gratifying evi

stewpan, and add a little flour about a teaspoonful for a dence that our citizens are becoming every year more and

middling-sized dish. When the flour has boiled a little more sensible of the refining and elevating influences of

while in butter, add by degrees a cupful of broth or water; the fine arts upon the general characteristics of our coun

when this has boiled up, put in the potatoes, with chopped try. The present display ern braces a collection from the parsley, pepper, and salt. Let the potatoes stew a few works of the best European and American artists, among

minutes, then take them from the fire, and when quite off which are several masterly productions, the private pro the boil add the yolk of an egg beat up with a little lemon perty of the stockholders. This institution is, indeed, one 3 juice and a tablespoonful of cold water. As soon as the of the crowning glories of Philadelphia, not merely afford- { sauce has set, the potatoes may be dished up ana ing at all times a quiet retreat for those who love to } table. contemplate the wonderful efforts of genius in its imitations and in its emulations of the truthfulness of Nature, CREAsEs may be removed from velvet by passing the unbut also as a place to which Genius itself may retreat, in der side of the velvet over a warm smoothing iron. Let order to reanimate its drooping energies, and rekindle its one person hold the velvet tight, and another pass the flickering hopes of fame. For, aside from its magnificent iron; then spread out the garment, and brush gently, yet collection of paintings, etc., the liberality extended by the briskly, with a velvet brush. Academy to artists and to scholars is of the greatest importance in securing to our country those trophies of native TO CLEAN LACQUER.-Make a paste of starch, one part; genius which, in time to come, will form a portion of her powdered rottenstone, twelve parts; sweet oil, two parts; imperishable renown.

ş oxalic acid, one part; water to mix,

Centre- Table Gossip.

LONGCHAMPS.'

Not that I mean to say Longchamps should be dethroned,

§ but that Longchamps depends altogether on the caprice of We have been frequently asked, What is the proper sea

the ladies and the planets. If the sun refuses to smile on son for spring bonnets, and when should crape shawls be

it, and assumes a dark frown instead, adieu to Longlaid aside? The exact time for the blooming of a spring 3

champs! In that case, it will only be escorted by a few wardrobe is a debatable question among our city and

republican guards, fine brave fellows in their way, no country belles : the present season, for instance, when

doubt, but, in my opinion, not to be compared to all the lace bonnets and tissue robes reposed so long in the ward

fairy creations of fancy and caprice.” robes of the purchasers, who still went clad in furs and

So much for the eloquence of a French modiste, on an allvelvets.

important theme in the world of fashion; and so much for Some, to be sure, did not look beyond the almanac, and }

our argument against wet weather displays. The safest shivered in their finery; and this is often done without a

rule is to follow Nature, and bring out your spring ribbons thought of the appropriateness of the dress for the day. So,

and your gauzy tissues with her fluttering foliage, rememthrough the season, crape bonnets are sported wet or dry,

bering alwaysumbrellas drip over thulle, and light silks trail upon a } mud-stained pavement. In the last instance, a glaring

“One violet doesn't make a summer." ignorance of propriety is noticeable-a vulgarity of display, we had almost said. This is admirably corrected in a line

POETICAL ENIGMAS. from a French journal des modes" Another bonnet suitable for fine weather," etc. etc.: it especially prefaces the descrip

Miss Annie S. Ashton has our thanks for the following tion with a supposition that it will not be worn at any

response to the Poetical Enigma in our last other time. A French woman does not confine herself to

When tolled the fearful tower bell one expensive bonnet, to be worn on all occasions—the in

The dirge for Lady Grayconsistency is purely American. An English woman rarely

When sorrow on her true friends fell, ventures on a dress-bonnet in walking-costume. It is in

And on her foes dismay, tended for the carriage alone; a close cottage shape of

Draped in its sombre cereclotá deep, straw, with dark ribbons, answers her turn.

Ere fell the fearful shock, As to the time when this change is to be made, all Paris

How many pitying eyes did weep waits for its spring costumes until the Fête de Longchamps,

To view the headsman's block ! which occurs in May. On that important day, the boulevarrls are thronged with four miles of beauty and fashion,

And now, with brave, unfaltering mien, up through the Champs Elysées to the Bois de Boulogne.

The gentle lady stands; Hear what the clever “ American in Paris" says of it:

In murmured prayer her lips are seen, “Formerly, the cause of going to Longchamps was to say

Upraised her claspéd hands; mass; now it is the variation of a sleeve. The chief concern

Then softly, as an eider couch of the day is the exhibition of pretty women in open b&

For that sweet form were spread, rouches, clad in the splendors and novelties of the season.

The lady kneels, and on the block The dresses of Longchamps, like Cæsar's, go forth upon the

Is laid her fair young head. whole earth, and it is the only tribunal that can claim

And so the riddle was to meupon earth this extensive jurisdiction."

If thus its numbers move, So much for Longchamps in 1836, when the principal

The whole is guessed ; for, though I write, changes of fashion were mutton sleeves for the wide bishop,

No blockhead I shall prove. and the lengthening of dress skirts to conceal the ankle But this Longchamps has also its homage to the season, for what says the “ Moniteur" of the spring of 1862?

WIIAT 'S TO BE DONE WITII THE CHILDREN ? " Longchamps is now close at hand. It is much talked

That ever we, as a Lady's Book, should be compelled to of in the world of fashion. But is it really Longchamps

hold up deprecating hands in a plea for the nursery! That that proclaims such and such a dress or mantle? I can hardly believe so, though I am by no means inclined to

we should find, upon our cheerful centre-table, so lament

able a cry as the one now claiming our response! “ What's derogate from its past glory. Sometimes at Longchamps

to be done with the children? indeed! poor, little weary the weather is gloomy and wet; elegant ladies, frightened

dears, finding no rest for their feet!” What's to be done by the chilling blast, wrap their persons in Indian cash

with the distracted parents ? also becomes a serious conmeres, and do not venture to exhibit the wonders of fash

sideration; but we give our correspondent's letter as it ion. The consequence is, therefore, that Longchamps is

lies in our contribution-basket, sealed ominously with a often less gay, less animated, less elegant, and less magni

Shakspearian motto-wafer-s* Sorrow ends not when it ficent than the ordinary daily parade in the Bois de Boulogne and the Champs Elysées, when the sun shines bright

reemeth done"-soliciting advice or suggestion for the unand the blue sky speaks of spring. What! some one will

happy writer from any quarter whatever :exclaim, do you dare to attack Longchamps? do you rail

“PHILADELPHIA, June 10. against it? What will Fashion say? Fashion knows well "Your kind heart will perhaps excuse the liberty taken enough that I am right, and will approve of what I sny. } by a stranger, in addrossing the presiding genius of 'Go

CENTRE-TABLE GOSSIP.

105

dey's Centre-Table. I apply to you, as a last resource, to ed articles to a smoke of powdered brimstone. Put glowing suggest, if possible, some way of disposing my five precious coals in a small tin or iron pan, and strew the powder upon innocents for the summer months. The baby is teething, them. The old-fashioned foot-stoves answer the purpose poor dearl and the doctor especially recommends change admirably, the smoke escaping through the punctures of of air: indeed, he says he cannot answer for the conse the tin. This is said to be effectual in the cleansing of quences, if we remain in the city another month. John closets, safes, etc., infected with ants, and is, at least, worth and Jane-the twins--have never fairly recovered from the a trial. measles; Augusta looks delicate; and, now that Philip is SWEETMEATS.-As the season for putting up sweetmeats oat of school, he leaves me no peace of my life, tearing approaches, all young housekeepers should be admonished about the house, and making donkey-carts of the clothes to see to the jars themselves, and, if possible, not to trust baskets and his brother and sisters. In the country, this any part of the process to a servant. It is much better to playful exuberance would pass unnoticed. But in vain put them up in large, plain glass tumblers, one or two of hare we advertised-searched-scoured the country over. which will be sufficient to fill a cut-glass dish, so that there of the fifty-seven applications we have made, fifty-four re will be none wasted. Besides, you can more easily watch turn answer that they bave made up their minds not to them to prevent fermentation, china or earthen jars being, take children this season; and the other three allow them of course, opaque. There is no absolute necessity of laying no privileges of grounds or garden, poor loves!

a brandied paper over them, although many think so: if * What does all this mean, my dear madam? Whence} well done, with a full allowance of sugar, there will be litthis coalition of boarding-house keepers against these un- tle danger from fermentation. offending innocents! Their country wardrobes are preparod; their father stands ready, purse in hand, to discharge any reasonable demand; and I await in tortured

TIIE BUSINESS OF BEING BEAUTIFUL. anxiety the daily blasting of hopes which the morning's

We commend the following notes on the “business of Ledger' has excited. I read of desirable accommoda- being beautiful” to the attention of our younger lad tions,' charming neighborhood,' unsurpassed conveni who are just commencing a self-forming process of characences,' but to be told that the ban of proscription is passed

tor. We know it is rather a new doctrine; that the world, upon my interesting family. What is to be done with the

as a general thing, will cry it down under the name of children? Cannot you aid in dissipating this unfounded

vanity; but we separate the consciousness of giving pleaprejudice against such injured loveliness?

gure by grace or delicacy from the vulgar pride in physical "P.S. I inclose a pen and ink drawing of my Philip, in

advantages, to whieh, and their display, the name more the straw hat purchased in Second Street, to save his lovely

properly belongs. It is not a selfish motive, that of giving complexion in the country he seems destined never to visit,

pleasure to others, and every one knows that “a thing of that you may see, from his prepossessing countenance,

beauty is a joy forever.” The “Quarterly” is a good auhox little my eldest bom deserves such excommunica

thority, moreover, and we quote from the “Quarterly:" tion."

80, ladies, it is your duty to be beautiful, whether you liko it or no.

“ Man's face is bound to be clean, and may be allowed to be picturesque, but it is a woman's business to be beautiful. Beauty of some kind is so much the attribute of the sex, that a woman can hardly be said to feel herself a woman who has not, at one time of her life, at all events, felt herself to be fair. Beauty confers an education of its own, and that always a feminine one. Most celebrated beautics have owed their highest charms to the refining education which their native ones have given them. It was the wisdom as well as the poetry of the age of chivalry that it

supposed all women to be beautiful, and treated them as HOUSEKEEPER'S KEYS.-No. II.

such. According to our promise in the June number, we com “What can be more false or cruel than the common plan mence a series of household hints, under the above title; of forcing upon a young girl the withering conviction of many of them are original, and all valuable, we believe. her own plainners? If this be only a foolish sham to

DISINFECTANTS.-Do our lady readers understand the sim counteract the supposed demoralizing consciousness of ple theory of disinfectants? Every housekeeper has had beauty, the world will soon counteract that; but, if the Occasion to use chloride of lime: half a pound to five gal victim have really but a scanty supply of charms, it will, ions of water, is the quantity recommended by a very able in addition to incalculable anguish of mind, only diminish chemist. Aromatic vinegar poured upon a heated iron those further still. To such a system alone can we ascribe plate is perhaps the pleasantest of all, though not always an unhappy anomalous style of young woman, occasionally to be had, or remarkably economical. The cheapest, and, met with, w ho seems to have taken on herself the vows of at the same time, one of the most convenient and agreeable } voluntary ugliness--who neither eats enough to keep her of all, is common coffee. Pound the well-dried raw bean complexion clear, nor smiles enough to set her pleasing in a mortar, and strew the powder on a moderately heated muscles in action--who prides herself on a skinny parsiiron plate. Just traversing the house with a roastor con- mony of attire which she calls neatness-thinks that alone teining freshly burned coffee will clear it from all offensive respectable which is most unbecoming-is always thin, and smells.

seldom well, and passes through the society of the lovely, Motus. When there has been a lack of precaution in the graceful, and the happy, with the vanity that apes huputting away woolens, or moths have colonized in furni- mility on her poor disappointed countenance, as if to say, ture, we know of no better remedy than to subject the infect i "Stand back, I am uncomelier than thou!"

Fashions.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS. Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Hitress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake boxes, onvelops, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for the amount, and the early execution of commissions.

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Dress goods from Levy'e or Stewart'x, bonnets from Miss Wharton's, jewelry from Bailey's, Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE Fiy, 18tr-Dinner-dreus, composed of a vest to be worn with a skirt of plaid Organdy muslin, pink and white, the plaid rather large-made very full, but plain. The vest is of white embroidered cambric, lined with white Florence silk; it has a short basque, and the skirt is disposed en chemisette The basme and gleeyes, which are demi-lone are trimmed with a rich fall of lace. The chemisette itself is of full muslin folds, with a ruche about the throat. Hair dressed in a high twist on the back of the head, with full bandeaux at the side, rosettes and flowing ends of velvet. This costume is at once simple and elegant, and is espe cially suited to a young girl.

Fig. 20.--Walking-dress of lavender silk, the skirt full, with three deep flounces ; each flounce is edged, not headed, by a double puffing of silk, The corsage is terminated by a not very long or sharp point, and opens en Marquise, with an embroidered chemisette. Sleeves open, demi-long, and edyed with a double ruffle of the silk; undersleeves in puffs. A white drawn bonnet, is composed of silk and blonde, and ornamented by a close bouquet of blush roses and foliage. In the street, the costume is finished by a black silk mantilla, trimmed with lace.

The child's dress is of embroidered cambric, the sleeves tied with bows of wide blue ribbon. It will be noticed that the sash is once more in favor, and broader than ever.

Lace application is now applied to mantillas with great success. It is done by drawing a border on the silk, which is first cut after a scarf pattern, and lining the silk with common cotton net lace of the same shade. This pattern is followed by tacking a narrow silk braid on the outline, and cutting out the silk, leaving the centre of the pattern in lace. It has a very light and graceful effect, but is scarcely suited for anything but a scarf pattern. We have already described a still neater style of lace insertion. (See June number.)

The favorite colors for mantillas continue to be white, black, and lavender; some in muslin have been seen, and one in exquisite taste, which we must describe to our lady readers. The mantle itself is of the finest Swiss muslin, with a vine of fine embroidery encircling it. There is a small circular hood that can be brought into use, also richly embroidered, and fastened by a bow of pure white ribbon with flowing ends. The mantle and hood are lined with the softest white Florence silk, and altogether has an air of indescribable grace and lightness. For a watering. place, nothing could be in better taste, or more really use ful, to be thrown on for short promenades, with a dinner or evening dress, or after dancing. It may be lined with pink, violet, green, or any shade that suits the fancy.

Speaking of watering-places reminds us of a very neat style of travelling bonnets brought out by Miss Wharton, or rather a favorite style revival. It is a casing, or drawn

hat of fine brown grass cloth, a close but not unbecoming } { shape, trimmed by a double ruché of blue ribbon on the

outside, and næuds and strings of the same inside the brim. Straw travelling bonnets have been worn so long, that this will be welcomed as a change. For barèges, Organdy muslins, or, indeed, thin tissues of any kind, Miss Wharton has adopted the “ infant waist;" a belt slightly rounded behind and before, scarcely more than a slope, indeed; the slight fulness of the waist has perhaps three shirts, drawn with fine cord; the lining is cut out at the throat. This gives a

simple and graceful air, especially suited to young ladies. }

A collar, pointed in style, and of slight depth, is attached to the open corsages of older ladies. Small bishop sleeves, with cuffs, are used for morning-dresses, which saves the trouble of a cambric undersleeve, and are really very neat. The ordinary pagoda, or loose sleeve, is still in use for thin dresses. We have seen an Organdy muslin finished by

ruffles of the same, they being headed by a fine edge of } Valenciennes lace. Others are made cut up, or rounding

up on the inside of the arm, instead of towards the elbow.

as described in May. } Thick wbite silks, either of moire d'antique or with a

heavy cord, remain still in favor for bridal dresses, relieved by having the corsage and sleeves covered with light puffings of thulle or blonde. The dress of Lady Constance, youngest daughter of the Duke of Sutherland, recently married to the oldest son of the Marquis of Westminster, was of white satin, with guipure flounces. The head-dress was of white roses, entwined with orange and myrtle, and & splendid guipore veil falling almost to her feet. The corsage and sleeves were of lace, and the ornaments were a magnificent carbuncle set in brilliants, the gift of the queen, and a necklace of pearls, diamonds, and emeralds.

Rather an extravagant costume for a young lady, and q uotol not for imitation, but as a matter of simple feminine interest.

F. SHOX.

CHITCHAT ON PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS

FOR JULY.

So many of our fair ladies have deserted the town for the country, that our shops are “halls deserted.” This and the succeeding months have few decided changes. Almost every one has finished her summer wardrobe, and is not yet thinking of fall costumes ; so there is little to bo chronicled, save a fow novelties in mantillns, lingerie, etc. etc.

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