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eountry, whieh greatly interferes with the prospeets of publishers and literary men, and whieh, perhaps, it would be as well not to toueh until we enlarge our own literary boundaries, and extend to tbose engaged within them some additional faeilities and seeurities. From what we see, the halanee of trade is already against us, and we are not so eertain that, in a literary point of view, we ean even bold our own, mueh less gain anything upon our rivals, until something is done lor the proteetion of autbors. Hitherto, we may have had our doubts in regard to the propriety and the general effeets of an international law on the subjeet of literary property; and altheugh we do not intend to argue the question now, we are, nevertheless, prepared to say wo believe it sbould be first settled before we " throw our ports open" entirely to a eompetition whieh appears to be as unjust to parties in our own eountry as it is to similar professions in Europe.

The "Evening Argus" says, "Among the proeeedings of the United States Senate, we observe the presentation of a petition from, the artists and other eitizens of the eity of Philadelphia, asking that P. F. Eothermel, of this eity, may be seleeted to paint one of the National Pietures that are to rulorn the waits of the Capitol. Wo take great pleasure in seeonding the appeal, as we are eonfident that to no artist eould the task be eonfided with more eertainty of its Wing exeeuted with eredit to the national eharaeter than to Mr. Rothermel."

Coneest Aneenote.—A lady attending a eoneert was greatly annoyed, during the performanee of a favorite sympbony of Beetboven, by some young persons wbo sat immediately behind her, and wbo, by their ineessant ehatter, gave equal displeasure to all around them. The party thus offending eonsisted of a young lady and two young gentlemen, wbo affeeted all that indifferenee for the delightful musie, and for the presenee of tbose wbo had eome to enjoy it, whieh is too often assumed as an evidenee of superior intelleet, and of an elevated elass. For, doubt of the faet as we may, there are many otherwise good-hearted people wbo think it vulgar to evinee the least feeling or sentiment at a publie eoneert or musieal toirt'r. But to return. When all was over, the lady alluded to above leaned aeross one seat, and eatehing tbo eye of the girl, wbo was pretty and well dressed, said, in her blandest, gentlest voiee, " May I speak with you one moment?" "Certainly," said the yonng lady, with a flattered, pleased look, bending ftrward. "I only wish to say," said the interrogator, "that I trust, in the wbole eourse of your life, you will not suffer so great a degree of annoyanee as you have inflieted on a large party of lovers of musie this evening!"

Mevaosolitan Hotel, Baoanwav, New Yoak.—Passing along Fourth Street a sbort time sinee, whilo rather in a patriotie mood, we turned for a moment to eontemplate the onee famous Indian Queen Hotel, where, in the olden time, the defenders and founders of our eountry resorted for eonsultation and for eartbly eomforts, and in a retired room of whieh it is said Mr. Jefferson drew up the original draft of tbo Immortal Deelaration of Independenee. We were preparing our mind to eontrast Its plain walls and windows, its breadth and its height, with the splendid and magnifieent mansions in whieh our great men and our rieh men of the present day do mostly eongregate, and where taste and modern refinement, where art, luxury, ease, and eleganee have eomblned all their powers to minister to the wants and eomforts of the present generation. But, alasl (be aneieUt front, whieh had long been shrinking and tottering with age, was eoming down with a erash; and, at

< this day, not one briek elings to another of that modest :< strueture—the onee renowned Indian Qufen Hotel!

I A few days after this ineident, if sueh it may be ealled, I our business required our presenee in New York—we say | our busineaz, beeause we wish it to be understood that wo > never travel exeept on aetual business, unless it be over the i fields, and " over the hills and far away," in eompany with ,< our little namesakes and a few other young eompetitors in { the walk and the raee. But, arrived at New York, what

< was our astonishment, when eondueted by a friend to tbo ] Metropolitan Hotel, at bebolding its magnifieent exterior,

> and its still more magnifieent interior, with all its -• modern ', fixtures" and gorgeous applianees, sueh as Tbomas Jeffer\ son, tbough a wonderfully progressive writer in his time, ) and espeeially progressive while laying out his plans of 1 progress in the old Indian Queen, never eould have dreamed

of, altbough he might have been reading the "Arahian

< Nights Entertainments" just before he went to sleep! 'Entertainment! Ah, here is entertainment, indeed! but

< not '" for man and borse," as there was in Mr. Jefferson's : time, but for man and woman, or, to speak In more modem ^ English, for " ladios and gentlemen of the highest degree." s Here, too, is evidenee of progressive independenee; for, as j wo were told—we had not time to eount—this establisb

< meut, whieh is six stories high, eontains over five hundred 1 rooms, one hundred of whieh are suites of rooms, eaeh

suite embraeing parlor, bedroom, dressing-room, hath-room,

< ete., and all supplied with bot and eold water, so that indi\ viduals aud families may live perfeetly independent of : eaeh other and of the outside world. Leading to these

rooms, and through the immense building, there is one i mile of halls and passages elegantly painted, ''and more j than five miles of pipes to eonvey the gas, bot and eold

water, and steam to warm the building, to every part."

The furniture of this building, unique and rieh, eost j $150,000; silver-ware, $14,000; mirrors, $15,000, two of

whieh, intended for the dining-hall, eover one hundred \ square feet eaeh. The eaptions of the dining-hall windows ; are ornamented with the eoat of arms of every prineipal 'nation on earth. In addition to these eostly deeorations,

the purest designs, formed in the purest and most eostly j marble, have been brought into requisition under the best 'artists.

i This new and splendid botel, whieh it is presumed has j not its equal in the world, is now under the management \ of the brothers Leland, wbo have learned the business of botel-keeping pretty mueh in the w sy we have learned tlm ; business of magazine-publishing—by minding their own \ business, and attending strietly to fulfilling all their pro\ miseK made to the publie.

\ The Metropolitan Hotel Is situate at the northeast eorner of Broadway and Prinee Street, on the uite of Nlhlo"s Gari den. three hundred and sixty feet on Broadway, and two * hundred and ten feet on Prinee Street. Tbo eost of the ] building has been estimated at near half a million of dolj lars. It will be a pleasure to the publie to know that the management of sueh an immense and magnifieent esta\ blishment eould not have been plaeed In worthier hands.

The engraving in the front part of our " Book" for tbo ! present month, is an exaet representation of the building ; we have attempted to deseribe. [

> The Kniekekeoekes.—The following announeement was ! made in tbo "Kniekerboeker Magazine'' for May. The

editor of that able magazine has our best wishes for the ; sueeess of his gossip, whieh, unlike that of most of the tribe I of gossipers, has always been a souree of pleasure, as well . as of information, to tbose wbo have listened to its expressive aud feeling tones and gentle admonitions. To doubt

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the sueeess of sueh "kniek-knaeks*' as will be distributed from the editorial table of the "Kniekerboeker," would be about equal to doubting the sueeess of the "Kniekerboeker" itself, whieh, happily, is one of the fixed literary faets of Amesiean history. But read for yourself the pleasant announeement of the fortheoming pleasantries

"Gossip With Reaners Ann Coreesponnents.—Friends, old friends, let us impart a fond seeret to you. We won't nay thai you 'mustn't let it go any further,' beeause you ean * pass it on* as fast and as far as you like. There is in the press of the Messrs. Appletons a Tolume, to be followed by another, entitled ' Kniek-Knaeks from am Editor's Table, by L. Gaylord Clark.* It has been prepared at the suggestion of many friends, the favorable judgment of several of whom would do honor to a far worthier literary projeet. During kixteen years, sitting alone or with eompany in the sanetum, or eireulating in soeiety, we have seen and beard mueh to awaken mirth, and felt mueh that has awakened tears. Looking haek now upon these reeords, almost forgotten, we find that they seem now even to us, and the old emotions with whieh they were originally jotted down eome haek again freshly upon us. Now, any one man who feels and enjoys, who ean neither resist laughter nor forbld tears that vriU out and must have vent, sueh an one, it seems to us, is simply an epitome of the publie.

"So thinking, and so hoping, we have gone haek over the long, long period during whieh we have gossiped with our readers, and have segregated from our pages sueh passages as interested us most when we wrote them; and, as there will bo at least no laek of variety, and abundant eontrast, we trust to be able to make our humble ' venture' I aeeeptable to readers generally. One thing we ean at least

promise, and that is that, however far short it may fall of exeellenee, it shall esjhtain nothing that may offend; while in the eharaeter of its exeeution, its distinet divisions, largeness of type, quality of paper, ete., the publishers will leave nothing to be desired. Our brother editors who may approve of our little projeet will lay us under an obligation, whieh we shall be only too happy to reeiproeate, if they will eopy into their eolumns this brief programme of our design. Tell your readers, gentlemen, please, that we shall try to present for their aeeeptanee a work that shall be a various and pleasant eompanion for the rail-ear, the steamboat, and the fireside.*'

Aeanemv or Ftne Arts.—It gives us great pleasure to state that the exhibltion of this institution for the present year opened with a display of paintings and statuary more brilliant and interesting than on any preeeding year sinee its foundation. This faet affords us most gratifying evidenee that our eitizens are beeoming every year more and more sensible of the refining and elevating influenees of the fine arts upon the general eharaeteristies of our eountry. The present display embraees a eolleetion from the works of the brst European and Ameriean artists, among whieh are several masterly produetions, the private property of the stoekholders. This institution is, indeed, one of the erowning glories of Philadelphia, not merely affording at all times a quiet retreat for those who love to eontemplate the wonderful efforts of genins in its Imitations and in its emulations of the truthfulness of Nature, but also as a plaee to whieh Genins itself may retreat, ln order to reanimate its drooping energies, and rekindle its fliekering hopes of fame. For, aside from its magnifieent eolleetion of paintings, ete., the liberality extended by the Aeademy to artists and to seholars is of the greatest importanee in seeuring to our eountry those trophies of native genins whieh, in time to eome, will form a portion of her imperishable renown.


| To Preserve Flowers In Water.—Mix a little earbonate

'of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for

! a fortnight.

! To Restore Color Taren Out Rt Aeins.—Sal volatile or

| hartshorn will suffiee for this purpose. It may be dropped

', on silk without doing any injury.

I Hoarseness.—A pieee of flannel, dipped in brandy, and

; applied to the ehest, and eovered with a dry flannel, is to

'be worn all night. Four or six small onions, boiled, and

! put on buttered toast, and eaten for supper, are likowise

J good for eolds on the ehest.

J To Mare Eau-ne-cologne.—Reetified spirits of wine, four

> pints; oil of bergamot, one ounee; oil of lemon, half an J ounee; oil of rosemary, half a draehm; oil of Neroli, three! quarters of a draehm; oil of English lavender, one draehm; J oil of oranges, one draehm. Mix well, and then filter. If | these proportions are too large, smaller onos may be used.


i Moths.—Take of eloves, earaway teeds, nutmeg, maee, ein

> namon, and Tonquin beans, of eaeh one ounee; then add

i as mueh Florentine orris-root as will equal the other ingre

\ dients put together. Grind the whole well to powder, and

S then put it in little hags, among your elothes, Ae.

S Lanies, Beware.—The use of white paint as a eosmetie

\ affeets the eyes, whieh it renders painful and watery. It

4 ehanges the texture of the skin, on whieh it produees phn

> pies; attaeks the teeth, destroys the enamel, and loosens ( them. It heats the mouth and throat, infeeting and eor\ rupting the saliva. Lastly, it penetrates the pores of the j skin, aeting by degrees on the spongy substanee of the \ lungs, and induefng disease. Powdered magnesia, or violet i powder, is no further injurious than by stopping the pores

of the skin; but this is quite injury enough to preelude its i use. The best eosmeties are early hours, exereise, and

> temperanee.

> An Exeellent Dush.—Potatoes d la MaOn *THotel: Boil < the potatoes, and let them beeome eold; then eut them J into rather thiek sliees. Put a lump of fresh butter into a i stowpan, and add a little flour—about a teaspoonful for a i middling-sized dish. When the flour has boiled a little

while in butter, add by degrees a eupful of broth or water; when this has boiled up. put in" the potatoes, with ehopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Let the potatoes stow a fow minutes, then tako them from the fire, and when quite off the boil add the yolk of an egg beat up with a little lemon juiee and a tablespoonful of eold water. As soon as tha sauee has set, the potatoes may bo dished up and sent to table.

Creaieh may be removed from velvet by passing the under side of the velvet over a warm smoothing iron. Let ono person hold the velvet tight, and another pass tho iron; then spread out the garment, and brush gently, yet briskly, with a velvet brush.

j To Clean Laeouer.—Make a paste of stareh, one part; ( powdered Tottenstone, twolve parts; sweet oil, two parts; \ oxalie aeid, one part; water to mix.

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We have been frequently asked, What is the proper season for spring bonnets, and when sbould erape shawls be laid aside? The exaet time for the blooming of a spring wardrobe is a dehatable question among our eity and eountry belles: the present season, for instanee, when laee bonnets and tissue robes reposed so long in the wardrobes of the purehasers, wbo still went elad in furs and velvets.

Some, to be sure, did not look beyond the almanae, and; shivered in their finery; and this is often done witheut a! tbought of the appropriateness of the dress for the day. So, j through the season, erape bonnets are sported wet or dry, umbrellas drip over thulle, and light silks trail upon a mud-stained pavement. In the last instanee, a glaring < ignoranee of propriety Is notieeable—a vulgaritg of d^play, j we had almost said. This is admirably eorreeted in a line; from a Freneh journal des modes—" Another bonnet notable \ for fine weather," ete. etc.; it espeeially prefaees the deserip-! tion with a supposition that it will not be worn at any other time. A Freneh woman does not eonfine herself to one expensive bonnet, to be worn on all oeeasions—the ineonsisteney Is purely Ameriean. An English woman rarely ventures on a dress-lmnnet in walking-eostume. It is intended for the earriage alono; a eloso eottage shape of straw, with dark ribbons, answers her turn.

As to the time when this ehange is to he made, all Paris waits for its spring eostumes until the Fitede Longehamps, whieh oeeurs in Mav. On that important day, the boulevards are thronged with four miles of beauty and fashion, up through the Champs Ely sees to the Bois do Boulogne. Hear what the elever "Ameriean In Paris" says of it:—

"Formerly, the eause of going to Longehamps was to say mass; now it Is the variation of a sleeve. The ehief eoneern of the day is the exhibltion of pretty women in open harouehes, elad in the splendors and novelties of tbo season. The dresses of Longehamps, like Caesar's, go forth upon the whele earth, and it Is the only tribunal that ean elaim upon earth this extensive jurisdietion."

So mueh for Longehamps in 1K36, when the prineipal? ehanges of fashion wero mutton sleeves for the wide blsbop, s and the lengthening of dress skirts to eoneeal the anklr. j But this Longehamps has also Its hemage to the season, \ for what says the " Moniteur" of the spring of 1852?—

"Longehamps is now elose at hand. It is mueh talked 5 of in the world of fashion. But is It really Longehamps 5 that proelaims sueh and sueh a dress or mantle? I ean > hardly believe so, theugh I am by no means inelined to \ derogate from its past glory. Sometimes at Longehnraps' the weather is gloomy and wet; elegant ladies, frightened \ by the ehilling blast, wrap their persons in Indian eashmeres, and do not venture to exhiblt tbo wonders of fashion. The eonsequenee is, therefore, that Longehamps is often less gay, less animated, less elegant, and less magnifieent than the ordinary daily parade in the Bois do Boulogne and the Champs Elysoes, when the sun shines bright and the blue sky speaks of spring. What! some one will exelaim, do you dare to attaek Longehamps? do you rati against It? What will Fashion say? Fashion knows well enough that I am right, and will approve of what I say.

Not that I mean to say Longehamps sbould be dethroned, but that Longehamps depends altogether on the eapriee of the ladies and the planets. If the sun refuses to smile on it. and assumes a dark frown instead, adieu to Longehamps I In that ease, it will only be eseorted by a few republiean guards, fine brave fellows in their way, no doubt, but, In my opinion, not to be eompared to all the fairy ereations of faney and eapriee."

So mueh for the eloquenee of a Freneh modiste, on an allImportant theme in the world of fashion; and so mneh for our argument against wet weather displays. The safest rule is to follow Nature, and bring out your spring ribbons and your gauzy tissues with her fluttering foliage, remembering always— •

"One violet doesn't make a summer."


Miss Annie S. Ashton has our thanks for the following:
response to the Poetieal Enigma in our last:—
When tolled the fearful tower bell

The dirge for Lady Gray—
When sorrow on her true friends fell.

And on her foes dismay,
Draped in its sombre eereelotfc deep,

Ere fell the fearful sboek,
How many pitying eyes did weep
To view the headsman's bloek!

And now, with brave, unfaltering mien,

The gentle lady stands;
In murmured prayer her lips are seen,

Upraised her elasped hands;
Then softly, as an eider eoueh

For that sweet form were spread,
The lady kneels, and on tbo bloek
Is laid her fair young head.

And so the riddle was to me—

If thus its numbers move,
Tbo whole, is guessed; for, theugh I write.
No bloekhead I shall prove.


That ever we. as a Lady's Book, sheuld be eompelled to bold up depreeating hands in a plea for the nursery! That wo sbould find, upon our eheerful eentre-table, so lamentable a ery as the one now elaiming our response!" What > to bo dono with the ehildren? indeed 1 poor. little weary dears, finding no rest for their feet!" What *s to be done with the distraeted parents? also beeomes a serious eonsideration; but we give our eorrespondent's letter as It lies In our eontribution-hasket, sealed ominously with a Shakspearian motto-wafer—" Sorrow ends not when it seemeth done"—solieiting adviee or suggestion for the unj happy writer from any quarter whatever:—

"PmUDBMU, June. 10. \ "Your kind heart will perhaps exeuse the liberty taken i by a stranger, in addressing the presiding genius of 'GoCENTRE-TABLE GOSSIP.


dey's Centre-Table.' I apply to yon, as a last resouree, to

suggest, if possible, some way or disposing my five preeious \

innoeents for the summer months. The haby 1r tot-thing, s

poor dear! and the doetor espeeially reeommends ehange '•

of air: indeed, he says he eannot answer for the oonse- .

quenees, if we remain in the eity another month. John:

and Jane—the twins—have never fairly reeovered from the [

measles; Augusta looks delieate; and, now that Philip is \

out of sehool, he leaves me no penee of my life, tearing;

about the house, and making donkey-earts of the elothes- i

haskets and his brother and sisters. In the eountry, this [ playful exuberanee would pass unnotieed. But in vain have we advertised—searehed—seoured the eountry over. Of the fifty-seven applieations we hare made, fifty-four return answer that they hare made up their minds not to

take ehildren this season; and the other three allow them J no privileges of grounds or garden, poor loves!

"What does all this mean, my dear madam l Whenee

this eoalition of boarding-house keepers against these un- >

offending innoeents T Their eountry wardrobes are pre-'

parod; their father stands ready, purse in hand, to dis- \

eharge any reasonable demand; and I await in tortured '\

anxiety the doily blasting of hopes whieh the morning's;

* Ledger' has exeited. I read of * desirable aeeommoda-;

tions,' 'eharming neighborhood,' 'unsurpassed eonveni-; enees,' but to be told that the t»n of proseription is passed

upon my interesting family. What is to be done with the ,

ehildren? Cannot you aid in dissipating this unfounded . prejudiee against sueh injured loveliness?

"P. S. I inelose a pen and ink drawing of my Philip, in < the straw hat purehased in Seeond Street, to iave his lovely

eomplexion in the eountry he seems destined never to visit, • that you may see, from his prepossessing eountenanee,

how little my eldest born deserves sueh exeommuniea- \



Aeeording to our promise in the June number, we eom- j

menre a series of household hints, under the alt>ve title; j

many of them are original, and all valuably we believe. J

Disrspeetanrs.—Do our lady readers understand the sim- \

pie theory of disinfeetants? Every housekeeper has had;

oeeasion to use ehloride of lime: half a pound to five gal- f

Inns of water, is the quantity reeommended by a very able j ehemist. Aromatie vinegar poured upon a heated iron

plate is perhaps the pleasantest of all, though not always i

to be had, or remarkably eeonomieal. The eheapest, and,!

at the same time, one of the most eonvenient and agreeable J of all, is eommon eoffee. Pound the well-dried raw bean in a mortar, and strow the powder on a moderately heated

iron plate. Just traversing the bouse with a roaster eon- j

taining freshly burned eoffee will elear it from all offensive 1 toiells.

Moths.—When there has been a laek of preeaution in

putting away woolens, or moths have eolonized in fund- j

ture.we know of no better remedy than to subjeet the infeet- \

ed artieles to a smoke of powdered brimstone. Put glowing eoals in a small tin or iron pan, and strow the powder upon them. The old-fashionwl foot-stoves answer the purpose admirably, the smoke eseaping through the punetures of the tin. This is said to be effeetual in the eleansing of elosets, sales, ete., infeeted with auts, and is, at least, worth a trial.

Swiuatmeats.—As the season for putting up sweetmeats approaehes, all young housekeepers should be admonished to soe to the jars themselves, and, if possible, not to trust any part of the proeess to a servant. it is mueh better to put them up in large, phtin glass tumblers, eue or two of whieh will be suffieient to till a eut-glass dish, so that there will be none wasted. Besides, you eon more easily wateh them to prevent fermentation, ehina or earthen jars being, of eourse, opaque. There U no absolute neeessity of laying a brandied paper ocer them, although many think so: if well done, with a full allowanee of sugar, there will be little danger from fermentation.


We eommend the following notes on the " business of being beautiful" to the attention of our yoonger ladies, who ore just eommenefng a self-forming proeess of eharaeter. Wo know it is rather a now doetrine; that the world, as a general thing, will ery it down under the name of vanity; but we separate the eonseiousness of giving pleasure by graee or deheaey from the vulgar pride in physieal advantages, to whieh, and their display, the name more properly belongs. It is not a selfish motive, that of giving pleasure to others, and every one knows that " a thing of beauty is a joy forever." The "Quarterly" is a good authority, moreover, and we quote from the "Quarterly:*' so, ladies, it is your duty to be beautiful, whethor you like it or no.

*• Man's faee is bound to be elean, and may be allowed to be pieturesque; but it is a woman's business to be beautiful. Beauty of some kind is so mueh the attribute of the sex. that a woman ean hardly be said to feel herself a woman who has not, at one time of her life, at all events, felt herself to be fair. Beauty eonfers an edueation of Its own, and that always a feminine one. Most eelebrated beautha have owed their highest eharms to the refining edueation whieh their native ones have given them. It was the wisdom as well as the poetry of the age of ehivalry that It supposed all women to be beautiful, and treated them as sueh.

"What ean be more false or eruel than the eommon plan of foreing upon a youuir girl the withering eonvietion of her own plainness? If this be only a foolish sham to eounteraet the Fupposed demoralizing eonseiousness of beauty, the world will soon eounteraet that; but, If the vietim have really but a seanty supply of eharms, it will, in addition to inealeulable anguish of mind, only diminish those further still. To sueh a system alone ean we aseribe an unhappy anomalous style of young woman, oeeasionally met with, who seems to have taken on herself the vows of voluntary ugliness—who neither eats enough to keep her eomplexion elear, nor smiles enough to set her pleasing museles in aetion—who prides herself on a skinny parsimony of attire whieh she ealls neatness—thinks that alone respeetable whieh is most unbeeoming—is always thin, and seldom well, and passes through the soeiety of the lovely, the graeeful, and the happy, with the vanity that apes humility on her poor disappointed eountenanee, as If to say, 'Stand haek, I am uneomelier than thou!*"


Ilaving had frequent applieations for the purehase of jswelry, millinery, ete., by ladies living at a distanee, the l'Hitrtxt of the FUshion Department will hereafter exeeute eommissions for any who may desire it, with the eharge of a small pereentage for the time and researeh required. Itridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jswelry, bridal eards, eake boxes, envelops, ete . ete., will be ehosen with a viow to eeonomy, as well as taste; and boxes or paekages forwarded by express to any part of tho eountry. For the last, distinet direetions must be given.

Orders, aeeompanied by eheeks for tite proposed expenditure, to br addressed to the eare of L. A. Oodey, Esq. , who will fte resjxmsible for the amount, and the early exeeution of eommissions.

Instruetions to be as minute as is possible, aeeompanied by a note of the height, eomplexion, and general style of the person, on whieh mueh depends in ehoiee. Dress goods from Levy'e or Stowart's, bonnets from Miss Whartou's, jowelry from Bailey's, Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiiluuy's, Now York, if requested.


Fig. 1pt,—I>innFT-drail, eomposed of a vest to be worn with a skirt of plaid Organdy muslin, pink and white, the plaid rather largo—made very full, but plaio. The vest is of while embroidered eambrie, lined with white Florenee silk; it has a short basque, and the skirt is disposed en ehemisette. The besque and sleeves, whieh are demi-long, are trimmed with a rieh fall of laee. The ehemisette itself in of full muslin folds, with a ruefte about the throat. Hair dressed in a high twist on the haek of the head, with full bandeaux at the side, rosettes and flowing ends of velvet . This eostume is at onee simple and elegant, and is espeeially suited to a young girl.

Fig. 2rf,—Walking-dress of lavender silk, the skirt full, with three deep flounees; eaeh flounee is edged, not headed, by a double puffing of silk. The eorsage is terminated by a not very long or sharp point, and opens en Marquise, with au embroidered ehemisette. Sleeves open, demi-long, and edged with a double ruffle of the silk; undersleeves in puffs. A white drawn bonnet, is eomposed of silk and blonde, and ornamented by a elose bouquet of blush roses and foliage. In tho street, the eostume is finished by a blaek silk mantilla, trimmed with laee.

The ehild's dress is of embroidered eambrie, the sleeves tied with bows of wide blue ribbon. It will be notieed that the sash is onee more in favor, and broader than ever.


So many of our fair ladies have deserted the town for the eountry, that our shops are "halls deserted." This and the sueeeeding months have fow deeided ehanges. Almost every one has finished her summer wardrobe, and is not yet thinking of fall eostumes; so there is little to ho ehronieled, so.ve a fow novelties in mantillas, lingerie, ete. Ma

Laee applieation is now applied to mantillas with great sueeess. it is done by drawing a border on the silk, whieh is first eut after a searf pattern, and lining the silk with eommon eotton net laee of the same shade. This pattern is followed by taeking a narrow silk braid on the outline, and eutting out the silk, leaving the eentre of the pattern in laee. it has a very light and graeeful effeet, but is seareely suited for anything but a searf pattern. We have already deseribed a still neater style of laee insertion. (See J une number.)

The favorite eolors for mantillas eontinue to be white, blatk, and lavender; some in muslin have been seen, and one in exquisite taste, whieh we must deseribe to our lady readers. The mantle itself is of the finest Swiss muslin, with a vine of fine embroidery eneireling It, There i s a small eireular hood that ean be brought into use, also riehly embroidered, and fastened by a bow of pure white ribbon with flowing ends. The mantle and hood are lined with the softest white Florenee silk, and altogether has an air of indeserihable graee and lightness. For a wateringplaee, nothing eould be in better taste, or more really useful, to be thrown on for short promenades, with adinner or evening-dress, or after daneing. It may be lined with pink, violet, green, or any shade that suits the faney.

Speaking of watering-plaees reminds us of a very neat style of travelling bonnets brought out by Miss Wharton, or rather n favorite style revival. It is a easing, or drawn hat of fine brown grass eloth, a elose but not unbeeoming shape, trimmed by a double ruehl of blue ribbon on the i outside, and nozuds and strings of the same inside the brim. \ Straw travelling bonnets have been worn so long, that this I will be weleomed as a ehange. For beriges, Organdy mus\ lins, or, indeed, thin tissues of any kind. Miss Wharton hfrs i adopted the " infant waist;" a belt slightly rounded behind S and before, seareely more than a slope, indeed; the slight i fulness of the waist has perhaps three shirrs, drawn with j fine eord; the lining is eut out at the throat. This gives a i simple and graeeful air, espeeially suited to young ladies. I A eollar, pointed in style, and of slight depth, is attaehed c to the open eorsages of older ladies. Small blnhop sleeves, > with euifs, are used for morning-drosses, whieh saves the

< trouble of a eambrie undertlueve, and are really very neat, j The ordinary pagoda, or loose sleeve, is still in use for thin J dresses. We havo seen an Organdy muslin finished by

< ruifles of the same, they being headed by a fine edge of S Valeneiennes laee. Others ore made eut up, or rounding

< up on the inside of the arm, instead of towards tho elbow, \ as deseribed in May.

< Thiek white silks, either of moire aVantique or with a heavy eord, remain still in favor for bridal dresses, relieved by having the eorsage and sleeves eovered with light puffings of thulle or blonde. The dress of Lady Constanee, youngest daughter of the Duke of Sutherland, reeently married to the oldest son of the Marquis of Westminster, was of white satin, with guipure flounees. The head-dress was of white roses, entwined with orange and myrtle, and a splendid guipore veil falling almost to her feet. The eorsage and sleeves were of laee, and the ornaments wero a magnifieent earbunele set in brilliants, the gift of the queen, and a neeklaee of pearls, diamonds, and emeralds.

Rather an extravagant eostume for a young lady, and quoted not for Imitation, but as a matter of simple feminine interest. Fashion.

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