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ILLUSTRIOUS WOMEN OF OUR TIME.

453

already occupied, and turned, as if to leave it. much of the superiority of her character to this Then came back, as Philip bowed and rose to leave patient and well-directed industry. her in possession, with something of her old man “No-yes, sometimes. But that was not what I ner, the reserve melting into one of her most open meant just then. I was going to say—to beg you and winning smiles. He could but think of the ex to take another pupil, or an old one in charge again; pression, half coaxing, half assured, with which she but I have never had the courage to ask it." had been wont to prefer her childish requests.

“Ah, have you? Will you allow me to offer any “If you will not think me too troublesome,” she assistance, any advice? I have so much idle lei. said, laying her hand on the volume she had come { sure ; and it would carry me back to those dear old in search of.

days: not that I could ever fancy you a child again." “Troublesome, Miss Haywood !" he echoed. “Ah, So the agreement was made, and once more Philip no, you never were troublesome, even in your most directed that quick, grasping intellect, and learned mischievous moods."

to wonder daily at its strength, and yet the true It was the first time he had ever alluded to their womanliness of its character, that could turn from old position of teacher and pupil ; but she was so deep philosophy to the details of social life. like the child May just then.

There was a new charm for his existence. He “Never? You forget how you used to scold me, ceased to notice John's hauteur, or be annoyed by or look at me, I mean—it was always worse than Miss Caroline's marked dislike; nay, he even offered Maumer Fanny's scolding—for my sad, romping to assist her in sorting worsteds one evening, when ways, the torn frocks and aprons, the dog-eared the dim twilight mingled and confused colors bebooks; and I'm sure you must remember how I yond her somewhat failing vision. Not that Miss teazed my brothers when they were trying to study, { Caroline ever paid any outward tribute to Time. and mocked the hic hæc hoc Edward used to Far from it. Her dress was quite as juvenile as stumble in. I must have been a household tor- May's, and her double eye-glass was assumed, as ment,” she added, still smiling.

she on this occasion assured Philip, only on account Philip's reserve and moodiness for the moment of a most annoying near-sightedness. melted at the remembrance of her mischievous Even York noticed the change in his mood, and gayety; its spirit, still lurking in that smile, exor told Lorry, now Miss May's own maid, "he 'spected cised all the bitterness of months.

Massa Philip hab great fortune lef' him, hab such “You were going to read ?” he said.

fine spirits, and whistle w'en he cum in. Else de lady "A little. I find I am getting sadly behind. lub, orf to de Norf-hab de 'garotype on de table, Truth is, I get little time, and I meet with many wid de elegant curls-gwine to hab him right away. difficulties which I have not patience to conquer. I Guess she hab a heap o' money herself.” A piece sometimes have been tempted" —

of speculation which Lorry took care to communi. “Not to give up your studies, I hope ?” Philip {cate to her mistress that very evening, with her spoke eagerly. He had often mentally attributed { own remarks and additions.

(To be concluded.)

ILLUSTRIOUS WOMEN OF OUR TIME.

" It seems to me that we over-educate the memory, while the temper and the feelings are neglected: forgetting

that the future will be governod much more by the affections than by the understanding."-L. E. L.

MRS. ELLIS.

riant and munificent, we must keep you under, and

prune you. We have talents enough in the other It has been judiciously remarked that “if the pos half of the creation, and if you will not stupefy and session of excellent talents is not a conclusive reason enfeeble the mind of women to our hands, we ourwhy they should be improved, it at least amounts to selves must expose them to a narcotic process, and a very strong presumption; and if it can be shown educate away that fatal redundance with which the that women may be trained to reason and imagine world is afflicted, and the order of sublunary things as well as men, the strongest reasons are certainly deranged.'” necessary to show us why we should not avail our Thus wrote one of the leading spirits of the age selves of such rich gifts of nature; and we have a { in the year 1810. At the present day he would not right to call for a clear statement of those perils have to lament that the finest faculties in the world which make it necessary that such talents should have been confined to trifles utterly unworthy of be totally extinguished, or at most, very partially their richness and their strength: for the pursuit of drawn out. Nature makes to us rich and magnifi knowledge has become the most interesting as it is cent presents, and we say to her, 'You are too luxu. } the most innocent occupations of the female sex; they have learned to feel that happiness is to be de- encourage her in becoming what Wordsworth has so rived from the acquisition of knowledge as well as happily described from the gratification of vanity. While this most

“A perfect being, nobly planned, important change has been thus progressing, we

To warn, to counsel, and command: have solid reasons for judging that the important

And yet a spirit still, and bright duties of life have not been neglected, for at Home

With something of an angel's light." woman still reigns, and

But while we entirely concur with Mrs. Ellis in As mother, daughter, wife,

deprecating the over-education and the laborious Strews with fresh flowers the narrow way of life, exercises to which youthful minds are sometimes

subjected, and which too frequently overcloud the quite as efficiently and satisfactorily as when her spring-time of life, we cannot exactly sympathize time was wholly devoted to the household gods. with her in the disposition, from which she is not That “good mothers make good men,” may still be free, to deprecate accomplishments, as if there was aptly quoted in application to our fair countrywo anything at variance between them and pursuits of men; and the “Mothers of England," by Mrs. Ellis, a more intellectual nature; and she sometimes, too, one of a series of works on the subject of female seems to forget that a woman is no longer bound duty, is a fair exemplification of the manner in apprentice to accomplishments only; that her unwhich it frequently is, and we trust ever will con- } derstanding is not now confined “to hang upon tinue to be carried out.

walls or vibrate on strings," but has become the first In the choice of her subjects, Mrs. Ellis has been spring and ornament of society, for it is enriched duly actuated by a feeling of their importance as with attainments upon which alone such power and regards the condition and happiness of women, and influence depend. And in saying this, we do not consequently has sometimes given offence by repro depreciate the accomplishments which lend so many bating too sharply the follies which are sanctioned charms to social intercourse; so far from it, we wish by society, and the peculiarity in the present aspect to convey the fact that practical good sense, with of social and domestic life which commonly are science and accomplishments, are thoroughly comexpected to pass unobserved. On this subject she

mis subject she } patible. remarks: “If, in the performance of this stern duty, } It was in 1833 that Miss Sarah Stickney (the I may at times have appeared unjust, or unsisterly, maiden name of Mrs. Ellis) first appeared before to the class of readers whose attention I have been the public in a literary career in which she has been anxious to engage, they will surely have been able to so eminently successful, and her three series of perceive that it was from no want of sympathy with “Pictures of Private Life" soon became as popular the weakness, the trials, the temptations to which as they have ever since continued to be. Her mode woman is peculiarly liable; but rather, since we of combining pure lessons of morality and manners can least bear a fault in that which we most admire, } with the amusement and interest of fictional narfrom an extreme solicitude that woman should fill, rative has been successfully followed up by, among with advantage to others and enjoyment to herself, others, “Family Secrets, or How to Make Home that bigh place in the creation for which I believe her {Happy,” and “Social Distinctions, or Hearts and character was designed.” We have many valuable Homes." A residence of fifteen months on the Condissertations upon female character as exhibited tinent has enabled us to profit by a very amusing upon the broad scale of virtue, but, until this excel. and well-written little book, entitled “Summer and lent series of Mrs. Ellis's, none which contained a Winter in the Pyrenees," and the sensible remarks direct definition of those minor parts of domestic on travelling with which it concludes cannot too and social intercourse which strengthen into habit, strongly be impressed on all those seekers of exciteand consequently form the basis of moral character. ment who think that change of place and scene will She has penetrated into the familiar scenes of infallibly stimulate listlessness or remove discontent. domestic life, and has thus endeavored to lay bare In her own case she completely verified the truth some of the causes which frequently lie hidden at of her motto: “I know of no pleasure that will comthe root of general conduct. “I have confined my pare with going abroad, excepting one-returning attention," she remarks, "to the cultivation of habit

home." -to the minor morals of domestic life, because there In 1845, Mrs. Ellis brought out the “Young are so many abler pens than mine employed in Ladies' Reader.” The remarks which it contains teaching and enforcing the essential truths of reli on the art of reading well are sound, judicious, and gion, and there is an evident tendency in society to usefully directed, and entirely do we agree with her overlook these minor points, while it is impossible opinion that reading aloud ought to form a part of an for them to be neglected without serious injury to accomplished education, particularly in regard to the Christian character."

females. “If in our ideas of the fine arts," remarks The whole aim, in short, of Mrs. Ellis, in her the authoress, “we include all those embellishments benevolent and moral exhortations to woman, is to } of civilized life which combine in a high degree the

COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS.

455

gratifications of a refined taste with the exercise of } ual existence of the reader; and where this is the an enlightened intellect, then must reading aloud hold } case, how vastly superior is the enjoyment always a prominent place amongst those arts which impart arising out of new trains and fresh combinations of a charm to social intercourse at the same time that ideas, when shared with others, than when only they elevate and purify the associations of ordinary confined to ourselves! Books are often our best life. The art of reading aloud and reading well is friends, and therefore we ought to share them tothus entitled to our serious consideration, inasmuch gether.” The remarks on the art of reading well as it may be made a highly influential means of im we beg most pointedly to recommend to our fair parting a zost and an interest to domestic associa readers, assured that they must benefit by a study tions; and of investing with the charm of perpetual of the advice there conveyed, while we are equally freshness the conversation of the family circle, the assured that they will be amused as well as instructed intercourse of friendship, and the communion of by the succeeding selection of extracts, which is “mutual minds.” One of the highest offices of modern, and made with much taste and care; at thought, when communicated by one individual, is the same time the pieces are not of such length as to to strike out thoughts from others. There are infringe on the copyrights of the authors, but are books which operate in this manner to such an ex rather brief specimens of their style and mode of tent as almost to create a new era in the intellect- thought.

COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS.—THIRD SERIES.

CHAPTER XII.

Fine cloth, silks, and cloth of gold, it is said, were

worn by the higher ranks in the sixteenth century, THE TOILET IN IRELAND.

and worsted and canvas materials by the lower The ancient dress of the Irish appears to be but } orders. In the reign of Henry the Eighth, an act little known till the twelfth century, when it is said was passed to prevent the Irish wearing clothes to have been much the same as that worn by the dyed of their favorite color, saffron; the number of southern Britons. After the garments of skins were yards also allowed for their garments is specified, discarded, the Irish adopted breeches, a cota, and a and women are ordered not to wear dresses of the mantle, fastened, as usual, with a brooch or bodkin. Irish fashion. This edict leads us to suppose that Armillæ and torques were favorite ornaments among they had a form and shape for their garments pecuthem. Giraldus Cambriensis says of the Irish in liar to themselves. The yellow, or saffron color, is the twelfth century: “ They wear their woollen often mentioned as being a very favorite hue, and clothes mostly black, because the sheep in Ireland one which they usually employed in dyeing their are in general of that color; the dress itself is of a } habits. barbarous fashion. They wear moderate close Spenser greatly censured the ancient Irish dress. hooded or cowled mantles, which spread over their He considered the cloak “a fit house for an outlaw, shoulders and reach down to the elbow, composed a meet bed for a rebel, and an apt cloke for a thief.” of small pieces of cloth, of different kinds and co-} He also strongly objects to the custom of women lors, for the most part sewed together; beneath wearing mantles, and mentions several articles of which they have woollen phalinges, instead of a their dress : “a linen roll which they sometimes cloak, or breeches and stockings in one piece, and wear upon their heads, a thick linen shirt, a longthese generally dyed of some color."

sleeved smock, a half-sleeved coat, and silken fillet." The mantle and brogues are two well known parts And Camden informs us that when, in Queen Elizaof an Irish costume. Froissart, in Richard the { beth's reign, the Prince of Ulster came to the EngSecond's reign, mentions the four Irish kings who lish court, with his attendants, they all wore “their gwore allegiance to that moparch, and says that hair flowing in long locks upon their shoulders, and linen drawers were ordered to be made for them, had shirts dyed with saffron ; their sleeves were and houpelands of silk, trimmed with miniver and large, their tunics short, and their mantles jagged." gris. “For,” adds the chronicler, “ formerly these { A writer of the reign of James I. says: “TouchIrish kings were thought to be well dressed if ing the mean or wild Irish, it may be truly said of wrapped up in an Irish mantle.” The dress of the them, which of old was spoken of the Germans ; females up to this time is but little known; but it į namely, that they wander slovenly and naked. The is supposed that they wore mantles, bodkins in their gentlemen, or lords of counties, wear close breeches hair, and various ornaments of jewels; they are said and stockings, of the same piece of cloth, of red, or to have been very partial to long hair, and allowed such light color, and a loose coat, and a cloak, or a it to grow lank and rough, and to fall over their three-cornered mantle, of coarse light stuff, made at ears.

home, and their linen is coarse; and,” adds the

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toms and dresses, such as fine-laced hose, golden plates buckled round their legs, high-heeled shoes, stitched with silk, and covered with tissue of gold, jackets that buttoned on the side, with sleeves ten feet long, very narrow, and plaited up to the shoulders."

By this account, we may imagine that the Norwegians were eager followers of fashion, and that at the time of which Snoro Sturleson writes, they dressed like other European nations. We find, how. ever, in another part of the same work, that the long garments were not quite discarded in Norway till about the year 1100, and then King Magnus Olufsen introduced short clothes and bare legs.

The lower order of peasants rarely trouble themselves about Fashion's vagaries; and the natives of this foreign clime still retain the costume that has descended to them from father to son. Some wear breeches and stockings all in one, and waistcoats of the same, and, if they wish to be very smart, they cover the seams with cloth of a different color.

The Hardanger peasants always wear black clothes edged with red; the Vaasserne wear all black; the Strite, white, edged with black; and those near Soynefiord, prefer black and yellow; so that almost every parish has its own color.

They wear on their heads a broad-brimmed bat, or elso a gray, brown, or black cap. Their shoes are without heels, and consist of two pieces of leather; the upper part sits close to the foot, and the other is joined to it in folds. In winter, they have laced half-boots, but when on the ice they put on skates, about ten feet long, covered with sealskin. The peasants never wear a neckcloth, but leave their throats and necks entirely uncovered. Sometimes they fasten a leathern belt round the body, to hold their knives and other implements.

At church, and on holidays, the Norwegian wo.

in the Turkish fashion, with many ells of linen, only the Turkish turban is more round at the top, while that worn by the Irish is flatter and broader." Speed also speaks of wide-sleeved linen shirts, stained yellow, the mantles, and the skeins, and says: “The women wore their hair plaited in a curious manner, hanging down their backs and shoulders, from under the folder wreaths of fine linen rolled about their heads."

From the time of Charles II. the gentlemen in { Ireland are said to have gradually abandoned the national costume, and to have adopted the English fashions. The lower orders, however, retained their dress to a much later period, and even now the brogues and mantles are constantly seen, and still oftener the feet unincumbered with shoes or stockings.

CHAPTER XIII.

HOM

THE TOILET IN NORWAY. The ancient dress of the Norwegian peasants was made of the reindeer's skin. From what old authors say, it seems to have consisted of a cloak or mantle; but we find that about the middle of the eleventh contury, when King Oluf Haraldren founded the city of Bergen, he brought thither a great many foreign merchants, who carried their fashions with them. In the Norwegian Chronicles we read : } men wear laced jackets and leathern girdles, adorned " Then the Norwegians took up many foreign cus- with silver. They are also fond of a chain, which

AUNT MILLY'S VISIT TO THE WATERING.PLACE.

457

they put three or four times round their necks, and in their household affairs, they wear a shift and a hang a gilt ornament at the end of it. Their hand petticoat; the collar of the former reaches to the kerchiefs and caps are covered with plates of silver, throat, and they have a sack, generally of a black brass, and tin, buttons, and rings; and, of the lat- } color, twisted round the waist. The linen they wear ter, they wear quantities on their fingers. The is very fine, and this simple costume is said to be young women plait their hair, and, while employed { very becoming

AUNT MILLY'S VISIT TO THE WATERING-PLACE.

BY FANNY BRACY.

Aunt Milly considered herself an invalid, not } am no invalid, and have always a good appetite, that she had any particular complaint or suffered and a fondness for my own bed, uninfested by little at all from debility. But she had been for years unmentionable insects that devour you in hotels and accustomed to sigh and moan habitually, to tie a } wayside inns. So leave me at home, and travel handkerchief around her face lest that lately fash from South to North, and East to West. Drink ionable terror neuralgia should make her a victim. sulphur water, bathe in hot springs, enjoy salt air, She ate rye bread for fear of dyspepsia, took seltzer and sleep in dirty places, since you have a fancy for every morning to guard against nervous headache, it; but let me have my way here." and never drank coffee or green tea, for the same “ I sleep in dirty places, Mr. Jones! You forget reason. When winter set in, she was swallowed in yourself, indeed! When did I ever express a likflannel, because her father had been dreadfully ing that way, sir? But let me die. You know I afflicted with rheumatism, and it was said to be cannot go without you, ill and feeble as I am. I hereditary. She kept cough drops in her pocket, am resigned to my fate, poor, neglected creature ! and took posset every night, for her chest was weak; } Oh, my side! My heart beats so painfully! Joanshe dreaded walking fast because she was sure that na! quick with the white mixture ! Joanna! Joshe was threatened with palpitation of the heart, anna! Mr. Jones, will you ring the bell? Dou't and when she drove out, sank back in the carriage { you see the state I 'm in ?" overwhelmed with the exertion of asking John if “I do, and hear, too,” said he, seizing the belleverything were safe-shafts, axle-tree, springs, } rope. “But you look remarkably well under the wheels, tires, harness, reins, and check-reins.

excitement, Milly; and you only want exercise and My uncle Jones called in physicians, and consulted fresh air to make you a sensible woman once more. medical works. He could find nothing in reference Whereas, with your swaddling in flannel, burying to her many nervous attacks, and gave up in de- yourself in your room, and drugging from sunrise spair. Numberless were the plain bread pills Aunt till sunset, you are getting to be like a withered Milly swallowed, countless the vials of colored wa- apple-withered and screwed into wrinkles while ters that she imbibed. She could not sleep without you are yet a young woman; for a woman of thirtytwo pills at night, and fancied herself dying, if, nine is by no means old, unless illness, and a fancy throughout the day, her teaspoonful of mixtures had } for illness, make her so." been omitted, or five minutes of the exact time had “You are surely crazy, Mr. Jones," cried my aunt, been allowed to elapse before her maid prepared rising and looking in the glass. “ I look withered ! them.

How decidedly ungentlemanly of you to say so! I She knew by heart the name of every watering defy you to show me a more youthful-looking woplace in the Union, and declared that she would man of my age than I am; and will thank you not die, a victim to Mr. Jones's indifference, if she were } to remember my years either, or to show a greener to be deprived of the benefit attending Sulphur memory. I am not thirty-nine yet, thank Heaven!" Springs, Sweet Springs, sea-bathing, and salt air. “Well, convince me of that, Milly, and I 'll be as

He had a holy horror of travelling. He could green as you can expect," said he, slyly, as he not be convinced of the necessity of shifting from winked his eye at me. “When were you born, my place to place, deprived of bis usual comforts, when dear?” he could stay at home and have everything he “Pshaw, Mr. Jones! What is the use of being wanted. So, for years, Aunt Milly was allowed to so foolish ? Go and ask my grandmother such groan and hint, and tie up her head in vain. She questions. She could tell to a minute : old people could not move his obdurate heart, and resigned are forever talking about ages. It seems to be ono herself to die of neglect.

of their infirmities." And here Aunt Milly rather “My dear, you can go where you like,” said he ; tossed her head. “but you must not expect me to accompany you. I “Well, may be so, Milly; but is it not singular

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