Materials.-Fine book muslin, and W. Evans & Co.'s boar's-head sewing cotton, No. 50, and embroidery cotton, No. 60.

THE SLEEVE.

The sleeve, of which our pattern is given the full size, is made in the ordinary form of the mandarin. Seven scallops will be found sufficient for each.

The design consists of a deep-waved vandyke, worked in overcast stitch, and an inner vandyke, worked in the same manner. Five eyelet-holes, of graduated sizes, are placed between the vandykes of each scallop. These are made with a stiletto, and sewed round closely with Evans's boar's-head

sewing cotton, No. 50. The embroidery cotton is to be used for the scallops, which are first to be traced, and then run with this cotton, until a raised surface is produced, to be afterwards covered with button-hole stitch.

The flower is made entirely of a group of eyeletholes, sewed round like those in the vandyke. The stems to be sewed over, and the leaves worked with the embroidery cotton, in satin stitch, the veining down the centre of each being marked by working from the centre to the side, until you have come nearly to the point, when the stitches may be taken completely across the leaf.

The eyelet-holes above the sprays are made by

piercing a small hole in the muslin, and working over it in button-hole stitch.

This kind of work should be firmly tacked on oilcloth before it is begun.

THE COLLAR.

The collar may be done entirely in Broderie Anglaise; that is, by cutting out, or piercing holes in

the form of the design, and simply sewing them closely over; or it may be made of muslin laid on net. In the latter case, the whole pattern must be traced in embroidery cotton, the stitches being taken closely, and through both the materials, and the sewing cotton must be used to sew it closely over. The muslin is then cut away from the ground, which is to be of net.

Whichever way the collar is worked, the edge must be sewed over, very neatly and closely, in button-hole stitch.

NEVER was there a season in which there was so great a variety of graceful cloaks to choose from. Not the heavy, cumbrous garment that once enshrouded and hid all grace or outline in the female figure, but light, yet ample costumes, that answer every purpose of warmth for walking or driving. Travelling wraps, of course, are made of heavier and less elegant materials; a Rob Roy shawl being as comfortable and convenient as anything we could

name.

We give two that are distinguished for elegance and comfort.

No. 1 is the Henri III. Manteau, a graceful style of cardinal, copied with historical accuracy. It may be made of any material-silk, satin, velvet, or even cashmere, or merino. When it is made of silk or satin, the trimming, as in the cut, consists of several rows of thick velvet ribbon, the same surrounding the pointed yoke, which gives an elegant slope to the shoulders. In broadcloth, a thick silk

ribbon braid should be used. It will be noticed that most of the fulness comes in on the shoulders, making it less cumbrous than if it fell in the front or back. To be lined with white Florence silk.

No. 2 is the Alboni Cloak, of embroidered cloth, velvet, or cashmere. It is preferred by many, because no weight is sustained by the arm, a sleeve being constructed from the back breadth, which falls over the front in a line of waves or broad scallops. The embroidery is in braid and silk, the outline of the braid being followed up by a pattern of silk tendrils. The collar has also a trimming of the same. This will be found an exceedingly comfortable pattern, not crushing the sleeve and under

sleeve of the dress, which is the only objection to the cardinal style.

A new evening or opera cloak is called the Brettone, because it resembles so closely the form of the cloak worn by the peasant women of Brittany. It is something like the military wrap, with large, loose sleeves, which gentlemen wore a few years since. It may be made of any soft and warm material; but cashmere, of some light shade, is usually preferred. Gray, fawn, or light blue are the favorite colors; the lining should harmonize with it, and be slightly wadded and quilted. Pink and blue are also used for lining negative colors. The trimming may be of braid or lace gimp.

THE very beautiful design for silk embroidery which we give in the present number is a running pattern of convolvulus and leaves. It is suitable for sacques, dresses, cloaks-indeed, for almost anything to which embroidery can be applied. If wished in fancy colors, the leaves and tendrils should be of shaded greens, the stem of brown, and the blogsom in purple or blue, shaded to imitate nature.

The most fashionable style, however, is to have the embroidery in one color, matching the material on which it is used, or contrasting with it. For infants' sacques, cloaks, and dresses, no prettier trimming can be found. It is also used en plain-colored merino dresses, cloaks, and plain-colored silks, with good effect. The art can be acquired with little instruction, if any one has natural taste for orna

mental needle-work-a branch of female industry never more in vogue than at present. In choosing embroidery silk, if a match to the material is re

KNITTED ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS

WHITE GARDEN LILY.

SIX petals, six stamen, one pistil, are required to form each flower; two knitting-needles, No. 19, and a skein of superfine white Shetland wool.

Cast on four stitches.

First row.-Slip one, purl two, knit one. 2d.-Make one, purl one, knit two, purl one. 3d.-Make one, knit one, purl two, knit two. 4th.-Make one, purl two, knit two, purl two. 5th.-Make one, knit two, purl two, knit two, purl one.

6th.-Make one, knit one, purl two, knit two, purl two, knit one.

7th.-Make one, purl one, knit two, and purl two alternately to the end of the row.

8th.-Make one, knit two, purl two alternately to the end of the row.

9th.-Make one, purl two, knit two to the end of row; knit last stitch plain.

10th. Make one, purl two, knit two to the end of row: purl the last stitch.

11th.-Make one, knit one, knit and purl two alternately to the end of row.

You will now have fourteen stitches, making seven ribs; continue these seven ribs until you have knitted a length of three inches from the beginning of the work. Break off the wool, leaving a bit long enough to thread a rug needle with; with this needle take up seven stitches, which you must fasten off; then the other seven, and fasten in the same way, which completes one petal. Take a piece of fine wire, sufficiently long to leave a small bit at the end for a stalk, and sew it neatly round the edge of the petal with white wool, which will make it in form.

PISTIL.

quired, it is better to have it a shade darker than even a half shade lighter; it should also be as fine and smooth as can well be selected, the best work looking badly with coarse materials.

Cut a length of wire of about eight inches, fold a bit of green Berlin wool in six, and split in two another bit of the same wool; place this lengthwise with the other wool, and place the wire across the wool, fold the wire down, and twist it as tightly as possible, thus inclosing the wool; turn down the shortest end of the split wool, and twist the longest round it and the wire, so as to cover them evenly; fasten the wool with a slip knot at the end of the stem. Cut off a part of the green wool at the top, so as to leave merely a neat little tuft of wool at the end of the wire.

Stamens are made in the same way as the pistil, merely using yellow Berlin wool instead of green, and covering the stem with white instead of green. Place one stamen with every petal, twisting the wires of both together. The pistil is to be placed in the centre of the flowers when made up. Sew the petals together, leaving them open about an inch at the top, as neatly as possible, and draw

them close at the bottom, twisting the stems together.

BUDS.

Several buds are required; the large ones are of a very pale shade of green, the smaller ones of rather deeper color. They look best in double knitting, and should be done in different sizes from twelve to twenty stitches. Knit about an inch of these different widths, and open them like a little bag. Take a piece of coarse wire, double some common wool about the thickness of your finger, put it across the wire, which must be folded down and twisted very tight; put this wool into the little bag, and gather the stitches of the bud at the top, catching the wire with your needle to fasten it. This will form the shape of the bud; fasten the stitches also at the bottom, and cover the stem with green wool split in two.

LEAVES.

Different shades and sizes are required. Begin them all at the top, casting on four stitches; they look best in double knitting, without putting the wool twice round the needle; increase one stitch every second or third row, till you have eight stitches for the smallest, and sixteen for the largest size. Continue to knit without increase, till the leaf is the required length. The longest should be about a fin

ger length, the smaller in proportion. The longest must be placed at the bottom of the stem when making up.

To finish a leaf, pull your needle out, and thread a rug needle with the wool, and pass it through the stitches so as to form a little bag, into which you must insert a bit of double wire; catch this at the top or sides to fix it, and it will keep the leaf in shape. Draw the wool tight on while the stitches are threaded, and twist the wool at bottom round the little stem.

The next operation consists in mounting the branch. Begin at the top with the smallest bud, round the stem of which some green wire must be twisted. Fix it at the top of a piece of bonnet wire, the length required for the long stem; continue to twist the wool round, and thus fasten the second bud, and the rest in the same way, at very small intervals. The flowers are fastened in a similar manner, according to taste, adding the leaves as needed.

Six buds, three flowers, and eight or ten leaves, form a beautiful branch.

Although the petals of the lily can be made up with the wool as it is, they look much better if, after being knitted, they are washed with a little blue in the water, and quickly dried, before the wire is put round them.