56 FORTS OF ALEXANDRIA. itself among his brighter reminiscences, like Satan among the sons of God; and conscience may, moreover, have whispered that his hearers also remembered the event but pleasurable feeling predominated, and gaiety sparkled in his eyes. Without allowing him time to cool, I continued my inquiries:"And what time does your Highness think it will require to complete the history up to the present time? I also, perhaps, may desire to give some account of your Highness's life, and should consider myself fortunate in obtaining access to materials so original and valuable." "Ah, that is very uncertain. The work is long, and my moments of leisure are few. It cannot possibly be finished by the time you return down the river." XXVI. I now turned the conversation into another channel. Your Highness is not, I am aware, accustomed to grant travellers the permission to visit the fortifications of Alexandria, particularly the Castle of the Pharos, and the battery on the point of Ras-el-Teen; and, therefore, though extremely desirous of examining them, I scarcely know how to ask such a favour." At these words he opened his eyes, and darting at Mr. Harris a look, in which the words "What the devil have you brought here?" were clearly implied, he bit his lips, and was for a short time silent. He then directed a scrutinising glance at me, and replied, "Yes, you may visit THE PASHA'S LETTER. 57 them. You may see them all. I will give orders to that effect. You shall have a kawass to-morrow." Oh, I thank your Highness! But to-morrow I set out for Cairo. When I return, will be time enough. And now I have another favour to ask: may I be permitted, while at Cairo, to see your Highness's children, and such parts of the harem as a stranger can enter with propriety?" "There will be no difficulty. And, to ensure your admittance, I will this evening cause a letter, containing my orders, to be written to M. Walmas, which shall be delivered to you before your departure. What time do you leave?" "At noon." Well, the letter shall be sent you in the morning." XXVII. We now retired; but, from the wellknown character of Eastern princes, who promise with facility, without the smallest intention of keeping their word, I entertained little or no hope of receiving the letter. But I wronged him. It came even sooner than it was promised, and contained a sufficiently explicit declaration of his wishes in my behalf.* In an antechamber, through which we * This letter, written by the prime minister, by order of the Pasha, was never delivered; M. Walmas, the person to whom it was addressed, not being in Cairo when I arrived. Supposing that the gentleman who accidentally accompanied me to the palace was to be my companion on the Nile, which was not the case, he writes, "J'ai eu l'honneur de les présenter à S. A. le Viceroi, accompagnés par M. Harris, qui m'a procuré le plaisir de leur connaissance; et ayant 58 EVENING PRAYER. passed on leaving the divan, we observed a number of Musulmans at their devotions. It was an interesting sight. Young and old, rich and poor, the officer and the common soldier, setting aside all ideas of rank and distinction in the presence of God, knelt down beside each other on the same mat, and addressed in concert the same prayers to their Maker. They knelt in rows; their preacher was in front of them ; their faces were, I believe, turned towards Mekka. From time to time, when the preacher pronounced the holy name of God, all bowed down their foreheads to the earth with an air of profound humility; and, whatever may have been the secret thoughts of their hearts, which He to whom they prayed alone can know, they certainly appeared to be under the influence of faith and piety. XXVIII. Mohammed Ali is a man of middling stature, robust and stout in his make, exceedingly upright, and, for a man of sixty-five, hale and active. His features, possessing more of the Tartar cast than is usual among European Turks, are plain, if not témoigné ces messieurs le désir de passer au Caire pour visiter les endroits qui peuvent intéresser leur curiosité, S. A. daigna m'ordonner de les addresser à vous, Monsieur, pour leur être utile et agréable pendant leur sejour dans la capitale, en les accompagnant, ou les faire accompagner dans les lieux qu'ils désireront voir, à la citadelle, dans les fabriques, et ailleurs. Vous pouvez même vous adresser à S. E. Habib Effendi, si il sera nécessaire d'avoir une personne du service pour les accompagner," &c. &c. "Votre très-humble serviteur, PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PASHA. 59 coarse; but they are lighted up with so much intelligence, and his dark grey eyes beam so brightly, that I should not be surprised if I found that persons familiar with his countenance thought him handsome. In dress he differs but little, if at all, from any other Turkish gentleman: he has, however, a certain dignity in his manner, which, in the estimation of many, even borders upon majesty. But this dignity seems almost inseparable from the possession of power the man who can do much good or harm, whatever may be his stature, form, or features, will always appear to exhibit it; as the scorpion, in size no larger than a snail, is viewed with awe, because he is supposed to carry death in his sting. The manner in which he spends his time is nearly as follows:He sleeps very little. Europeans who have happened to repose in the same tent with him, while on a journey, complain of having been often disturbed in the night by his asking them questions, and afterwards continuing to talk on when they wished to sleep. He rises at or before daybreak; and, very shortly afterwards, leaves his harem on horseback, and repairs to his divan for the despatch of business. Here he receives all memorials, petitions, despatches, &c. Shortly after his arrival, the secretaries walk in with large bundles of letters, received since the day before, the contents of which are read to him. He then commands, and sketches out, vivá voce, in a rapid manner, the necessary replies. Then the answers to letters and papers, ordered to be made on 60 THE PASHA'S HABITS. the preceding day, are brought in, and read to him by the secretaries; and when he has heard and approved of their contents, he orders his signet, which he delivers into their hands, to be affixed to them; while he generally paces up and down the room, turning over the matter in his mind, and probably deliberating whether there shall any postscript be added. This sort of business usually occupies him till about nine o'clock; at which hour all those consuls, and other persons, who desire a public audience arrive. In an hour or two these individuals take their leave; upon ; upon which he retires to his harem, where he remains until about three or half past three in the afternoon. Even here, however, he is still employed; and his general orders are, that, if any verbal message be forwarded to him, as it is to be delivered to the chief of the eunuchs; but that, if any letter or note arrive, whether by day or night, he is to be immediately awakened from sleep. Boghos Ioussouff often attends him in the harem for the despatch of important business. At half past three o'clock he again returns to the divan; where, except that the order of proceeding is reversed, he first gives audience, and then enters into the affairs of the interior, the same round of business takes place as in the morning. About an hour after sunset he takes a slight repast, and remains in the divan until ten or eleven o'clock at night. During these evening hours he generally finds time for a game or two at chess, a person retained for the purpose being always in attendance to play with him; and this fel |