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three times and a half as fast as they: this same strap moves the currier L. It also turns the fly P, moving the same way as the surface of the great cylinder, but about half as fast again. This fly is designed to raise and lighten the wool on the surface of the cylinder (not to take it off), so that the doffer, which we have already mentioned, Q, may act upon it the more effectually. This is a cylinder of about fourteen inches diameter, covered with cards about four inches wide, and moving round at the slow rate of about one-thirtieth of the pace of the great cylinder: it is turned by a band connected with the axis of the roller-bowl: a comb which works against these cards cannot be seen. It is supported by rods screwed to it at each end, guided by two borizontal levers. The lower ends are jointed on small cranks formed on an horizontal axis at the lower part of the frame, and put into very quick motion by a strap, from a pulley at the bottom. Each revolution of the cranks causes the comb to rise and fall about two inches; when it descends, its edge-teeth act on the surface of the doffer cards, so as to take out the wool and drop it slowly into the shell of the roller-bowl. The revolutions of this bowl within its shell rolls the wool between them into a straight cylindrical shape, called a carding; these cardings are yielded from between the roller-bowl and its shell, upon a flat table R, in portions there exhibited. An endless cloth covers this table. It is stretched over horizontal rollers, and carries the cardings away to the slubbing machine or biley, by means of the motion it receives from the pulley S, which is fixed on the axis of one of the rollers.

The slubbing machine is a species of spinning engine performing the preparatory operations of reducing and clensating the cardings, and giving them a slight twist___They are then called rovings or slubbings. This was once accomplished by hand on the common hand spinning-wheel, then machines were invented, by means of which a number of slubbings could be drawn out together; but the aid of hands being required for joining the rolls or cardings of wool, they were found of little service, and have universally given way to the modern machine, which we shall now endeavour to describe.

It is a wooden frame, within which passes to and fro a moveable carriage, containing a number of perpendicular spindles, put into rapid motion by a long cylinder, and a band from a pulley affixed to each spindle. These spindles are placed perpendicularly, in a frame at about four inches from each other; their lower extremities are pointed, and turning in sockets; and the upper half projecting above the frame. On the lower part a sinall pulley or whirl is fixed, to receive the band from the horizontal cylinder (about six ches in diameter), and a little longer than the row of spindles: it is placed before them with its centre at a lower position than the row of whirls. The cylinder receives motion by a pulley at one end, with an endless band from a wheel, made like the large wheel used in spinning wool by the hand. This wheel is situated at the outside of the frame of the machine, and its axis supported by upright standards erected from the

carriage; the wheel is turned by the left-hand of the spinner, applied to a winch, and gives motion to the cylinder, which turns all the spindles at once. The operations of the spinning jenny are so very similar, that our plate of that machine will fully enable the reader to comprehend this. The discretion of the spinner regulates the degree of twists given to the slubbings, which depends both on the rapidity with which the wheel is turned, and the corresponding quickness with which the carriage is drawn out, as well as on the fineness of the wool and the length of its fibre. For fine shawl yarns, a machine called the mule, similar to the cotton mule, is often employed, see COTTON MANUFACTURE, the slubbing passing through rollers which assist in drawing out the thread smaller and more regularly.

In the spinning jenny the slubbings are again spun and prepared for the loom. Its parts are similar to those of the preceding machine, only differently placed. Our plate II. CLOTH, WOOLLEN, contains a view of this important modern invention. F, F, F, is the frame work, at the end of which the spindles s, s, s, are placed, about four inches apart. As in the slubbing machine their lower ends turn in caps or sockets of the cross-rail, and near the middle they are held up by brass collars fixed on another rail. Towards the lower end they receive an endless strap round their respective pulleys, communicating with the great roller A, which is generally made of tin plate, and receives its motion from the band B, which passes the great wheel C C. The moveable cross-rail D is morticed into blocks of wood, and runs on the general frame by means of small wheels or castors. It can be moved to and fro from six to seven feet. The underside is furnished with narrow notches for the slubhings to pass through, opposed to the projecting pieces, of a parallel cross-rail E, so as to form a clasp which confines the slubbings in the notches when the lower rail is raised up. They can however pass freely through the notches when the lower rail is down. This rail is limited in its movements up and down a small space by staples, which project downwards from the upper rail. Its rising and falling is effected by small cords fastened to it at about every three feet, and conducted over small pulleys in the substance of the upper rail, which are all attached to a handle, situated over the middle of the upper rail, beneath an arched bar G. This the spinner holds in her left hand, while the right is employed in turning the wheel; and by the fingers of her left hand she raises up the lower rail, and draws it close to the upper. In this position it is returned at pleasure by a small spring-catch, and clasps the slubbings in the notches, through which they pass; when the spring-catch is pushed back the lower rail falls, and releases the slubbings. An inclined frame H, receives the cops of the slubbings to be spun. They are rolled on iron wires, placed in two rows, each containing half as many cops as there are spindles. Each slubbing is conducted through a notch in the clasp, and thence it now proceeds nearly in a horizontal position to the spindles s, s, s. The yarns having been drawn out and twisted are wound on the spindles in balls.

I is a wire used for bearing down the thread from the points of the spindles, and attached to a horizontal rail, which is supported, on pivots at its ends, close to the row of spindles. A pulley K receives one end of this rail, and a short lever at the other is hid by part of the framing. Between the pulley K and the lever the wire is extended, and by turning round the rail the wire receives a perpendicular motion This the spinner can communicate when at her business by the cord L, the end being made fast to a pin at M, and the pressure of her finger on a small trigger in the handle G. A counterweight to bring it back to its first position is suspended from the pulley K.

The spinning jenny is worked by a female (generally) standing within the frame and turning the wheel with her right hand, while the cross-rail D is managed by her left. We have described the manner in which the slabbings are drawn between the upper and lower rails of this part of the machine; they are drawn off the balls at H, when the clasp retires from the spindles, until a certain length of each is extended nearly in an horizontal position between the spindles and the clasp. The motion of the wheel then twists those parts of the slubbings which are extended, and first in a contrary direction to the twist of the slubbing. They are now wound up upon the spindles, previously to drawing out a fresh portion of each slubbing, in order to spin it in the same manner. For this purpose they are pushed down upon their respective spindles, by pressing the trigger which moves the wire L; and the motion of the wheel is applied while the carriage and clasp are pushed home towards the spindles. Arrived there, the thread is finished and wound up.

The art of using the jenny consists in drawing out the carriage with a movement correspondent to the rapidity with which the spindles give the twist, or rather untwist, to the slubbing; for the principal extension of the thread is effected whilst this is going forward: as also in giving an equal degree of twist to the whole thread. The yarn that is intended for the warp, we should add, requires that the spindles be turned for a time after the thread is extended to its full length; but for the yarn which is to be used as weft, it is different: the whole of the twist is given during the extension of the thread, and none afterwards; this renders the weft softer than the warp, because in the cloth the weft appears more on the surfaces than the warp, and it is principally the felting and interlacing of the fibres of the weft that will form the surface of the cloth.

Warping, which is our next process, is performed by mounting the yarn on wires in a frame, and drawing it off the coppings, so as to combine a number of them together. The warping-mill, which is now generally used, is a large reel, with an horizontal axis; the ends of the threads in fact are made fast to the reel, which is turned round, and it draws off the threads upon its own circumference. To prevent them overlaying one another, they are guided through an eye or ring affixed to a slider, moved along a wooden rail, in a direction parallel to the axis of the reel, by a cord that winds round one end of the axis.

After this process the warp is scoured with urine to cleanse it from the unctuous matters adhering, and sized in a cauldron, about a dozen yards at a time: it is then dried and stretched in the open air: and when dry it is transferred from the field to the loom. The weft-yarn is wound off the jenny-cops on the quills or bobbins which are afterwards used by the weaver.

For the loom employed, and its most recent improvements, we refer the reader to the article WEAVING. It will be sufficient here to observe that the width of the cloth returned from that process is expected to correspond with the number of the yarns, so that 3000 common threads will make a piece of coarse cloth 103 inches wide; and 100 yards of fine cloth is expected to be produced from about 2960 threads: the weft averages about one pound per yard: and sixtytwo yards of cloth is considered a fair return for sixty-five yards of yarn.

The cloth must now be scoured in the piece, preparatory to felting: and for this purpose it is taken to the fulling-mill, which ordinarily consists of a pair of stocks in wooden hammers, suspended in an inclined position, and the heads lifted up and down by cogs or tappets, fixed on the axis of a water-wheel. When the cogs are removed by its revolutions from under the hammers, they fall by their own weight, and strike the piece of cloth, which is contained in a wooden cistern or trough. This both causes a continual circulation or turning round of the piece of cloth in the trough, and effects the scouring or washing it by continually bending or folding it in a fresh direction. It is now extended on the well known tenter-hooks, fixed in horizontal rails, attached to vertical posts, one line of the rails being fixed and the other moveable, by means of pins and holes.

Milling is another operation performed by the action of the hammer of the fulling-mill. To a piece of cloth thirty-one yards long, three pounds of soap are allowed at this stage, and it is worked in the mill about two hours, then soaped anew twice, and returned to the mill for about the same time, so that it undergoes the operation three times.

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The operation of fulling woollen stuffs, has so close a relation with felting,' says M. Monge, a writer we have before quoted, that we cannot dispense with entering into some details on this subject. The roughness with which the fibres of wool are bristled at their surface, and the disposition which the fibres have to take a progressive movement in the direction of the root, is an obstacle to the spinning of wool and to the fabrication of stuffs. In order to spin the wool, and afterwards weave it, we are obliged to coat all the fibres with a film of oil. When the piece of stuff is manufactured it must be deprived of this oil which gives it a disagreeable color, and constitutes a kind of filthiness which would be an obstacle to dyeing. For this purpose it is carried to the fulling-mills, where it is beaten with mallets in a trough filled with water, through which clay (fuller's earth) has been diffused. The clay combines with the oil, which it renders soluble in water; both are carried off by the fresh water which the machine itself brings

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