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choice of his subjects; and that if his the salutary conclusion, that his past patrons are weary of historical pic- progress has been constructed upon tures, he must, like Lawrence, and erroneous principles; and if the hour Phillips, and Shee, or like Rubens that sends him among the world again and Rembrandt, occasionally stoop to shall send him out as a new man, to paint portraits. He is a man of ta- commence a new career, young with lents, from which much may be hoped the experience of years, and vigorous for still. The severity of his present from the excitement of new hope, he lesson, however to be regretted, may may yet rejoice in his temporary cahave the advantage of forcing on him laniity, and do honour to his age.
There is some old and absurd at the rights of independent nations, and traction in all that relates to Spain. swears by Monarchy and la Charte. Nous Anglois talk of it in a universal His work is written with some ingespirit of romance; and it is the only nuity, with the eye of an artist, and topic on which we do not ridicule and with a profound admiration for France, scorn romance in word and deed. But, the great man now no more, and himsomething
mingled of Moor and Chris- self. But his descriptions are better tian chivalry, as theorbos touched to than his politics. His coup-dæil of the Sultanas, and bowers and alcoves fret- south is graphic. ted over with Arabesques and Saracen “ The soil of Provence, though copoetry, the remnants of the manners vered with mountains, is essentially of a brilliant, fierce, jewelled, and different in character from that of the mailed people haunt our imaginations; Alps and Pyrenees. It does not present and it is thenceforth allowed and al- continual heights and defiles, like the low ble for every man to be an cat!. great mountainous countries, nor mosiast for Spain, for its beauty and va- derate eminences, gradually declining lour, gallantry and guitars, the lux, to the plain, as we see on the north uriance of its valleys, and the proud side of the Pyrenees. There are plains, brows of its sierras, provided he has hills, and, above all, some stray ridges never been within the borders of the of the Alps, which terminate in the land. Romance in an actual traveller is Mediterranean. Hence the prospect beyond all mercy. In our closets, and over this diversified soil, is not always with a volume of Gongora or Calderon bounded by masses of rocks, confined on the table, we may be forgiven for within valleys, or lost in immense the folly of dreaming the Spaniard of plains. It alternately contracts and the 19th century into the bard, the extends over a soil which is sometimes hero, and the enthusiast of the 15th. level, sometimes covered with perpenBut the testimony of the eye should dicular mountains, and sometimes loses be fatal ; and he who resists it is itself over the expanse of a sea, when - equally desperate of cure and pardon. the darkest azure is contrasted with The Spanish war is already extinguish- sparkling light. ed, cast away, gone down with its whole revolutionary cargo. But some
" In the midst of an immense openpamphlets have been brought out bying between two great chains of rocks, it, descriptive of features and adven- which stretch into the sea, lies Mars tures that deserve to survive the Cortes, seilles. When a traveller arriving from their Constitution, and their burlesque the north reaches the first chain, he war. One of these gives a few cu- suddenly perceives this immense barious details of the frontier, when sin, and is astonished at its extent and the French kept watch, during the dazzling brilliancy. Soon after, he is past year, over the plague and the re- struck with the structure of the soil, volution together. The writer, Thiers, and its singular vegetation. An imis a Frenchman, and is what would mense mass of grey and bluish limeonce have been a philosopher, and stone forms the first enclosure ; lower would have been worshipped in the branches diverge from it, and extend Pantheon, but that fashion has passed into the plain, composing an unequal away, “nous avons changè tout cela ;” and very varied soil. On every emiand J. Thiers is now a respecter of nence there are tufts of Italian pines,
The Pyrenees, and the South of France, during the months of September and December 1822. By A. Thiers. 8vo. Treuttel and Wurtz, London, 1823.
which form elegant parasols of dark, repaired a considerable part of them; and almost blackish green. Pale green he has replaced most of the towers by olive trees, of a moderate height, de- bastions, protected the ramparts by scend along the hills; and, by their means of terraces or excavations; has paleness and little round masses, con- made covered ways and outworks. trast singularly with the slender sta- The citadel is now very strong; a triture, and magnificence, and dome of ple enclosure renders it able to resist the pines.
At their feet is a low, three attacks; and, by its position, it thick, and greyish vegetation ; it is commands the town. The works were the
sage, and the odoriferous thyme, carried on with extreme activity duwhich, when trodden on, emits a power- ring the latter end of the autumn; alful and agreeable perfume. In the most all the batteries were armed; the centre of the basin, Marseilles, almost supplies of powder, cartridges, and concealed by a long and strasgling hill, provisions, were completing ; wood appears in profile; and its outline, was cutting in the country for making sometimes hidden in the vapour, some gabions, and a park of field-artillery times appearing between the undula- was forming in a plain to the east of tions of the ground, terminates in the the town. A considerable number of blue of the sea, with the handsome waggons was already collected, and town of St John. Indentations of the twenty, or twenty-five, pieces of cancoast are washed by the waves of the non, were placed on their carriages. Mediterranean, which extends to the Though these preparations are not so west, with the Isles of Pomegue, Ra- considerable as had been reported, it tonneau, and the fort of If. It is un. is nevertheless equally desirable that der those beautiful pines, and in these the same were done in the fortresses innumerable country houses, that the on the Rhine ; for it is probable that Marseillese come every Sunday to for- our real enemies are rather in the get the bustle of the quays, their dis- north than on the south. Sowever, putes with the officers of the customs, the works of Perpignan are said to be and the business of the counting- nothing more than the completion of house.
plans long since made, for the repairs “As the tourist approaches the Spa- of our fortresses; and the expense does nish frontier, he is reminded of the not perhaps amount to above 150,000 state of things by groups of Spanish francs. Monks flying into France, by aides- “ Perpignan is certainly not of so de-camp Killing the inns, by waggons much political importance as Touand droves of mules choking up the louse. The latter city, with its Traproads, and all the bustle of fugitation pist, its two journals, and its pious and war. He reaches Perpignan. souls, is the centre of vast projects.
“ I immediately walked through However, Perpignan is, for the mothe town. It is an ancient place, ment, a place of great interest, if not which was always fortified, because it political, yet picturesque; and I ofis the passage between Roussillon and ten wished for the pencil of M. CharCatalonia. It is situated in a beauti- let, to paint the numerous fugitives ful plain, bounded on the west by with which it is filled. Mount Canigou, one of the highest “ The monks, who are the forerunof the Pyrenees; to the north, by the ners of every emigration, swarmed at mountains of Corbieres ; to the east, Perpignan, and
preceded the Regency. by the sea, hidden behind fertile hills; At Narbonne, I had already met the to the south, by the road to Catalonia. Capuchins, with their ample brown The temperature of the climate is en- flowing robes, their large hoods hangtirely southern. Some leagues from ing down to the middle of their backs, it, the orange grows in the open air, their rosary, and their bare head and and in the very basin in which it feet. At Perpignan, I saw monks of stands, there are immense plantations all colours; black, blue, white, grey, of olives, which extend to the foot of and reddish brown; the Curés, in large Canigou. Thus, while the summit of surtouts and immense French hats. this mountain is buried under the I remarked a singular habit in them snow, its base is covered with the finest when I met them; they followed me productions of the south.
with their eyes, as if ready to answer “ The fortifications of Perpignan are a question, and their extended hands, of brick, and their form and system are as if ready to give the benediction. In ancient. A skilful engineer has lately Spain, they bless all the peasants; and
I understood they were inclined to be finer features of landscape, which make equally generous in France. Two of the true province of painting; with them, with whom I conversed, said some points of gigantic height and carelessly, The Spaniards like it, savage solitude, with glaciers and avaand we give it to them. In France, lanches, its general height is that which they do not care for it, and we keep it allows the harmonies of forest colourto ourselves.' In general, I did not ing, of luxuriant valleys, and of spark find them very fanatical. They have a ling and gentle streams. The Alps are kind of indolence, which excludes vio- too wild and lofty for this; the Apenlent sentiments. They are very little nines are perhaps too low, too naked affected by the diminution of the of forest, and too steril. Our artists King's power ; but the happy theo- have now exhausted the prominent cratic influence which they enjoyed, subjects of the pencil at home; a dihas been disturbed. Several of their ligence and a week will place them convents have been visited ; the ma- in the midst of a new world of characjority have suffered for the crimes of teristica nd glorious scenery ; and I a few, and they have fled ; in no great should not be surprised to see Mount hurry, however, and contented with Canigou, and the Cerdagne, monks, the quiet and easy pace of their mules. mules, fortresses and all, transformed The profession of a monk is very ge
to English walls. neral in Spain, because it is easy, plea- “ One of the finest sights that I sant, and favours all kind of idleness. met with in the Pyrenees, was that If a man has committed any irregula- which struck me when I first left Perrities, or if he be still more lazy than pignan to penetrate into the mounhis lazy countrymen, he is received tains. It was about six in the morninto a monastery, and displays his ing. The cold was severe; a violent tranquil sanctity in the eyes of the and icy wind blew from the mountains people. A portion of the land is allot- of Capsir, which were covered with ted for their support; and voluntary snow;
and a young man of Rousillon, donations add considerably to their with a short jacket, a hanging cap, established income. This lazy mode of and a short and lively face, drove at a life gives most of them a happy en bon gallop four horses, which carried us point ; a lively red to their cheeks, round Mount Canigou. The plain had effaces the fine lines of the Moorish not yet received a ray of the sun, countenance; renders those happy bo- when suddenly the top of Canigou was dies difficult to be moved ; and in lit with a rose-coloured tint, which, their untroubled reign, takes from blending with the white of the snow, them even the hatred of heresy, the produced a shade inexpressibly soft. very name of which is unknown to The luminous band increasing as the the greater part of them. In others, sun rose higher, the upper peak seem, the cloister appears to have made the ed to enlarge in proportion as it was complexion sallow, hollowed and in- illuminated. The whole mountain was flamed the eyes, depressed the cheeks, speedily covered with light and purand thus produced the ideal of fana- ple. Then all its forms, hitherto conticism. have never seen anything cealed by the darkness, became markfiner than some of these heads project- ed at once; all its projections rose, all ing from the large robes of the capu- its hollows seemed to be deeper. The chins, with an ample forehead, a long cold, the wind, and our rapid motion, straight nose, large black fixed eyes, a
added to the effect of this fine scene. little, strong, and thick beard. Among “ After having proceeded a long time them are those men, who, by turns, round the foot of Çanigou, the mounmonks and guerillas, have quitted the tains of Caspir, which are at first in mountains since the return of Ferdi- front, appear at the side. We then ennand, and now go back to them, to ter the defiles, and the plain disappears, satisfy an ardent temperament, which, not to appear again till a hundred under other institutions, would have leagues off, that is to say, at Bayonne. shewn itself in great actions and noble Advancing to the defiles which lead to enterprizes.”
Cerdagne, we find a people who are This Frenchman describes with some entirely Spanish. The women, whose feeling of picturesque beauty, and his faces are round and animated, wear a sketches of scenery have a clearness handkerchief, which, spreading like a rare among his countrymen. The veil at the back of the head, is fastenrange of the Pyrenees is full of those ed, by two corners, under the chin,
and hangs in a point over the shoulders. A bow of black ribbon, taste- The traveller then penetrates into fully fastened at the root of the hair, the defiles, and finds, as he advances, ornaments the forehead; the waist is the increasing evidences of the confustrongly compressed by a corset, laced sion and misery brought upon the poin front; and they shew peculiar grace pulation by the
giddy and unnational in their Sunday dances.'
attempt of the Cortes. M. Thiers now comes rapidly into
« 1 resumed my way among the the centre of operations.
mountains. The roads were covered « Prades is the first place at all con- with the poor stragglers who had residerable that we meet after Perpig
mained behind. To these were added, nan, and it is the last. Carriages can- officers, monks, curés, students with the not pass beyond it; the way of travel- large Arragonese hat, and the gown ling is on horseback. At the moment of my arrival, news had been received of the late defeats of the Regency, and “ In the midst of this melancholy of the flight of the insurgents into the scene, I was much struck with a young French territory. I heard the moun- man, dressed in rather a handsome taineers speaking of it with warmth, uniform, and well mounted, who, and with the fullest disposition to find though unarmed, was distinguished by something marvellous in it. Every one a loftiness and grace entirely African, told his own story, but all spoke with put his horse on all his paces, and wonder of the cavalry of Mina, which, seemed to amuse himself with the road they said, ran upon the points of the and the fugitives.” rocks. Without, however, being so mi- Our extracts must close, though the raculous, it is certain that this cavalry pamphlet contains many interesting traverses the mountains with surpri- details. But the flight of the Regency sing rapidity and ease. They also an- is too curious an event in the chapter nounced the approach of several ge- of revolutionary accidents, not to be nerals, the Regency itself, and, above worth transferring. The traveller has all, El Rey Mata Florida, as the pea- set out early to pass the defiles lead. sants here called him.”
ing to the valley of the Cerdagne. In those days, “ Rebellion was « I left Olette in the morning, after good-luck;" and the Cortes were having, with great difficulty, procured * viceroys over the King.” The scale a mule and a guide. The sky was dark has turned since, and the kingly Cor- and stormy; an impetuous wind blew tes are now playing the fugitive, in through the defiles. I took the road to place of El Rey Mata Florida. The Mount Louis. There the mountains tourist is at last indulged with a view draw closer together, and rise. The of an emigrant rebellion.
road is cut out on one side of the rocks, " I was anxious to get to the place at one third of their height, and alwhere those celebrated insurgents were lows room for one mule at most.to be seen. After travelling very ra- Above, are inaccessible eminences pidly, towards night-fall, I met with below, are torrents—and beyond, are the first encampment, in a small field, other mountains. The scene is most at the foot of the mountains, and in diversified. Sometimes you rise, and the midst of the snow. I never saw a seem to command the abyss; at others, more melancholy and original sight. you descend, and seem to have it over It was distinguished, at a distance, by your head. Sometimes, following the the floating pennons of our lancers, sinuosities of the defile, you come inwho were placed as sentinels at the to an obscure enclosure, apparently four corners of the itinerant village. without an outlet ; then, suddenly Twelve or fifteen hundred poor crea- doubling a point, you discover an untures, men, women, children, and old expected and immense prospect; vast people, were stretched upon theground, amphitheatres of dazzling snow, black with their baggage spread out; some pines, and a succession of mountains, were lying on a little straw; others which crowd together, and lock into added their clothes, and endeavoured each other. The confusion of cubic to inake beds of them. Some mules and broken masses of limestone; blocks were fastened outside the circle, with of granite; the schistus, detached in their heads covered with ornaments, slabs, or broken into little flakes, addand their eyes with plates of copper, ed to the roaring of the torrents, the according to the Spanish fashion. disorder of the winds, and the pressed
and rent clouds, afford a perfect pic- found in all the expulsions of Europe. ture of chaos. Never did the confu- Its decrepitude, contrasted with the sion of the elements appear to me more speedy tríumph of its principles, and dreadful, even in the midst of a storm the pomp of its military return, form at sea.
a singular contrast, and seem made to “ On this day, and during this forbid politicians from prophecy. dreadful storm, I met with still more “ At last I met the long-expected fugitives than on the day before. Not Regency. We were climbing a flight a Monk, not a woman, had ventured of steps, which, extending along the to set out. Those who had no families side of a hill, turned towards its sumwith them, were conducted in bands mit. On a sudden, I saw a horseman by some of our soldiers. The poor at the summit of the path, who turna wretches wrapped themselves up as ed the point, and advanced towards well as they could; fortunately for us with a truly martial air. He was them, they had the wind in their backs, an old dragoon, enveloped in an imand, impelled by it, they ran along the mense cloak, and resembling the warnarrowest paths with extreme agility." riors in Wouverman's battle-pieces.
He now meets the curious phe- After him came a foot-soldier, leading nomenon of a Government running two good horses by the bridle. We away, and seems to have been rather were in our turn doubling the point, exhilarated with the sight, notwith- and descending by the opposite flight standing some natural touches of feel- of steps, when i perceived a group ing for those luckless fellow-sharers who appeared to ascend it with diffiof the desert and the storm.
culty, on foot. A man between fifty “My guide, when we set out, told and sixty years of age, of middle stame that we should meet El Rey Mata ture, pale, thin, and stooping, with Florida. In fact, the pages of the Rea his eyes red, wearing a black cap and gency soon announced his approach. a brown great-coat, was leaning upon I must make my reader acquainted two other persons, and dragging himwith those pages, who have been spo- self along with the greatest difficulty. ken of with so much complacency, as My guide, at this
sight, called out to well as the portmanteaus containing me, 'El Rey, El Rey Mata Florida ! the archives of the Regency. I saw horsemen pass me in groups of three “ His suite were not less character. or four together, upon horses which istic-three or four mean-looking and were lean, indeed, and ill-shaped, but ill-dressed individuals walked by his excellent, for they galloped over the side ; those were the great officers of snow, and aloirg the paths, with a se- the Regency. One of them, who was curity, I might almost say an infalli- pretty far advanced in years, very tall, bility, which was truly surprising - wearing an enormously large French Their equipment was worthy of the hat, covered with oil-skin, and carryplace, of the men, and of the army to ing a bundle under his arm, kept a which they belonged. Some had old little on one side—he was a minister, caps, very much worn; others rusty I know not of what department. Behelmets, or little round hats, with hind him was a tall Capuchin, in a short plumes of various colours. They long robe, who seemed to represent had uniforms, or Catalonian jackets, the altar near the throne. Lastly, a sometimes pantaloons and shoes, but, few steps behind them, came a young for the most part, gaiters and spartil- man in a green cloak, with several las, and no spurs. Some had no sad- capes, dressed completely in the French dles, nor any other harness than a hal- fashion, rather stout, and of a very reter. We met from sixty to eighty markable appearance. I was told that horsemen, of whom there were per- he was the son of the Marquis Mata haps twelve or fifteen well equipped, Florida. The wind blowing violently at and wrapped in good blue cloaks, es- the moment, both parties stopped, and corting officers,” &c. &c.
I had sufficient time to examine this The aspect under which this unfor- fugitive court. They watered their tunate Regency appeared at last, was horses at a little stream which issued certainly not calculated to raise very su- from the side of the mountain, and perior ideas of its former influence. A which flowed under a thick covering more shattered and lonely remnant of of ice that had been broken. After this, government, could not have been easily we continued our respective routes."