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land; and I feel happy in offering lies, and I feel a gratification in them at the present moment, pot making known to a British public only to prove to the gallant Pole the distingaished merits of an inI have not neglected his wishes, dividual, who was once the favourite although some time has elapsed, and confidant of Napoleon ;-raised but also that I think they bear an to the office of Chamberlain of his intrinsic interest as historical do: household, Colonel of his guards, cuments. I had the pleasure of his and General-in-Chief of all the Pos friendship during my residence in lish troops serving as allies or inParis on the first entry of the Al. corporated in the French service.

have the honour to remain, Sir,

Your obedient humble servant,
Feb. 28, 1823.

DOUGLAS Guest. 26, Charles-street, St. James's-square.


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After the splendid quarto vo- matter of taste, and as every man in Jumes of titled travellers in the va- England has a right to please himrious countries of Europe, the very self in his own way, public example mention of a sober journey from always considered, we will first put London to Paris, in the depth of an end to .supposition on this subwinter, when there is no sun to warm ject; and taking a very short road, the imagination and give fertility in which we avoid all tiresome repetito invention, will, perhaps, be suffi- tions about coaches and coachmen, cient to forbid general attention to inns and innkeepers, and guards the following pages.

and blackguards, fancy ourselves As there are thousands, however, driven to the King's Head lon in whose carthly peregrinations reach Dover, and safely lodged in Young no farther than from Bow Church Podevin's coffee - room, ordering to Notre Dame, and not a few who rúmp steaks and potatoes, a good consider a trip from Margate to fire, and a glass or two of what the Calais, with one day's dinner at the French call Vin de Porto. The table d'hote at Meurice's, more than night is passed at Dover; the next sufficient to introduce them to gen- morning is taken up with reflections teel society, as men who have seen about impositions and dread of seathe world, and are qualified for the sickness, and the next evening, after Traveller's Club in Regent-street; having been tossed about and medimy tour is not unlikely to be read, cinally agitated, without and within, and, conceit would say, admired. in the thing called a steam-boat,

' Every body knows or ought to which engineers tell us goes forward know, which is the same thing, that without motion, we are landed at Chaplin's coach leaves the Spread Calais upon fishermen's backs for Eagle in Gracechurch-street in the want of water in the harbour. morning, and after a tedious journey. Now let us suppose that we are arrives at Dover in the evening. in the Hotel de Bourbou, kept by Mr. There is nothing new in this infor- Rignolles; who, from the humble mation, and it will be as little news station of a barber in London, has to say, that the coachmen and the raised bimself to the dignity of an guards on the Dover road are like innkeeper in Calais, providing food the coachmen and guards on other and lodging, attention and civility, roads, very fat, very silly, and very for milords Anglais, at the moderate uncivil. I believe it is pretty ge- charge of 500 per cent. upon prime nerally known, that the road to cost, which is full 3, per cent. under Dover is through Rochester and the en conscience, at Mr. Meurice's. Canterbury, and some other towns. Gentle reader, hitherto we have There are some people, perhaps, gone hand in hand-you have trawho would go by another road, like velled with me to Dover-sailed with the man who wished to go to Hast- me to Calais like me rendered triings and took his place in the coach bute to the vasty deep, and landed to Lancaster, but as this is a mere with me on the pier, at that vene

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sable spot where the large brass secret, but very considerately offered foot commemorates the restoration no interruption to the tete à tete. of that good, fat, jolly-looking Louis The parson, however, though he XVIII who so nearly killed himself cared little, as it seems, about prewith a surfeit ; but the newest as serving his wife's virtue, being a well as the oldest acquaintances man of honour challenged the colomust part. We have travelled to-nel. They met, and the parson fired. gether to Calais in imagination; it The colonel refused to return the was a quick mode of travelling, and fire, and the antagonists separated; I did you the favour of including honour and justice were satisfied; you in my passport; but we are to but the offence was soon afterwards ineet no more. You may suppose repeated, and a friend of the parson yourselfstill at the Hotel de Bourbon, wishing to preserve the character if you please, but not an inch farther of the cloth became his champion. do you penetrate with me into the The colonel, who as luckily escaped French territory. We travelled to- the fire of the deputy as he had done gether comfortably to Calais, but that of the principal, refused to fire I must proceed alone to Paris. in return, and they separated. What

Having, for the sake of regularity, could now be done ? The parson assumed the first person, I shail now took the advice of bis friends, and inform the reader, that after paying placed the lady upon a separate al the bill at the inn, and giving a lowance. He is in England, and hearty god-dam to the custom-house she is here, you see, under the proofficers, police clerks, and commis- tection of her gallant colonel; but I sioners, who are all of a kidney, forgot the best of the joke. Two I stept into that tremendous machine months before the eclaircissement, called a diligence, and proceeded the parson was at Dover on a visit to Boulogne. Gentle reader, fancy to an acquaintance; one afternoon yourself with me in this Paradise of a gentleman, recently from Bouthe English-this refuge of black- logne, called at the house where the legs, bankrupts, demireps, and decay. parson was staying. B-inquired ed baronets.-Come with me to the the news of Boulogne, the gentleHotel de Londres the best inn in man who did not know him, replied Europe, where we have a delightful “There is no particular news, the coal fire, and dine en seigneur at 4 scandal of the place when I left was francs a bead. Now we are seated that parson B's wife was quite bappy at dinner, and François, the waiter, with colonel K. whilst her good buswho has served in the Grande Armée, band was fancying her miserable at is serving up the woodcocks. Ask his absence.". The poor parson was François about the scandal of the struck with wonder.. The next day place. The prudent dog shrugs up he left. Dover for Boulogne, and his shoulders--we know what he soon learned that his informant's means, and admire his precaution, news was authentic. François is like the man at the You see that lady turning the show-all things to all men ; but corner, it is Mrs. St. who has Dow we bave dined, come with me one of the best natured husbands in into the streets, we shall meet some the world. I shall say no more of the refugees, and as I know them about her. Yonder is the knight nearly all, you shall have their port who came out of the whale's belly, traits.

or, in other words, whose name is Bless my soul, who is that pretty very much like that of the prophet English woman in the cassimere who came out of it. Every body shawl? That is Mrs. B-, Parson knows how he served the pawnB's lady, and the tall gentleman broker who held his plate, previous at her heels is a gallant colonel to his departure from Ireland. The who fought a duel with her hus- knight invited a large party to band. The good parson, fancying dinner, and amongst them the pawnthat the colonel and his lady were broker, who consented to lend the on terms of too great intimacy, plate on condition of its not being watched them into a house, and taken out of his sight. Two to one, then sent a message to his lady, hy as the elegantes of Tothil-fields call way of intimatiog that he knew her a pawnbroker, was delighted to find

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himself among lords and barons, Several English families are resiand by no means uneasy about the

dent there, and a great number of plate, which was constantly before English youths of both sexes are his eyes; but the knight was too placed in academies at Abbeville for keen for the money lender, and so their education. The inhabitants effectually plied him with wine that, are for the most part a very worthy

a in an hour or two, he was senseless.

set of people, fond of the English, Whilst he lay on the ground like a and anxious to imitate them in the pig, the knight's servants packed various domestic duties for which up the plate, and sent it forward to

our nation is remarkable. The prinBoulogne; and, on the next day, cipal hotel in Abbeville is the Tete the knight followed it.

de Bauf, or, as it is also called, That is the house where the man

the Hôtel d'Angleterre. Like most lived who had a rencontre with his ser- hotels in France which aspire to the vant. Whilst the servant lay upon the preference of the English, the Tete ground weltering in his blood the

de Bæuf is by no means celebrated master's friends were busy in get- for low charges. The regular di. ting him into a carriage ; but he ligence continues its route to Paris, refused to go before the washer. after supping at Abbeville ; bat a woman brought home his collars. great many travellers prefer sleepHe was at length persuaded to go, ing on the road, and stop there. with an assurance that his collars After taking a comfortable night's should be sent after him to Calais. sleep, the journey may be continued When he got there he wrote a let- on the following morning, by one ter to his friend, Parson M of these routes Amiens, Dieppe, declaring that he would not budge or hy Neufchatel to Rouen. without his collars ; and, although As these roads are very little the life of the servant was despaired known to the English, I shall state of effectivement, as the French have the particulars respecting them. it, he remained at Calais until his The coach to Rouen by Neufchatel collars reached him. But I shall has been very recently established: waste all my time upon the English it leaves Abbeville between five in Boulogne instead of getting into and six o'clock in the morning, and Paris.- Good bye; and now let me arrives in Rouen at seven o'clock in soberly abjure scandal, and offer the evening. The fare is only nine myself as a new and sure guide to francs. On arriving at Ronen the the Englishman visiting the Conti: traveller may, if he pleases, proceed nent. After having paid my bill at to Paris the same evening, or the the Hôtel de Londres, which, con- next morning. The fare is 15 francs sidering the hotel is the best in from Rouen to Paris. There are Boulogne, was very moderate, I

several very good inds at Rouen. took my place for Abbeville: One of the best is the Hôtel Vatel,

The distance from Boulogne to in the Rue des Carmes, near the Abbeville is about fifty English cathedra). As there is a very exmiles. The diligence leaves Bou cellent theatre in Rouen, I recomlogne at about one o'clock in the mend every Englishman who stops day, and arrives generally at about a night at Rouen to visit it. The ten o'clock at night. Abbeville is coach to Amiens leaves Abbeville a large dirty French town with a in the morning at seven o'clock, few manufactories, which are by no and reaches Amiens at twelve. The means in a flourishing condition. fare including conductor and postil

* The Hôtel de Londres is a first-rate inn, and the charges may be expected to be enormous. It is only an act of justice to the landlady to state, that a very excellent dinner is charged only 4 francs, and very good Bordeaux wine 2 francs 10 sous per bottle. 1 dined in my own room alone one day, as follows, for 4 francs. Soup, fish, fricandeau, a roast chicken, a pair of snipes, a tart, and a good dessert.

For a very large coal fire, which was burning from eight o'clock in the morning till twelve at night, I was charged only 3 francs per day. Breakfast of tea, coffee, and eggs, is charged 2 francs.

lion, is only 4 francs and 16 sous. or thirty-three hours on the road. A diligence leaves Amiens in the The latter leaves late at night, and : evening at 5 o'clock for Paris, and is twenty-seven or twenty-eight arrives at eight on the following hours. The fares by the first two morning. The fare is 15 francs ; are alike-40 francs ; by the mallebut if the traveller wishes, during poste the charge throughout France the journey from Calais to Paris, is at the rate of 30 sous per post to sleep, on the road, he must take of two leagues. As there are thirtythe malle poste (mail coach) from four posts from Calais to Paris, the Amiens to Clermont, a distance of charge is 5l francs ; but no other about forty miles. The malle poate luggage than a travelling bag is leaves Amiens at two o'clock, two allowed by this conveyance. hours after the arrival of the coach

Fr. from Abbeville, and reaches Cler- From Calais to Paris by the dimontat nine in the evening, or earlier


40 if the roads are good. The fare is. Conductor and postillions 8 12 francs 13 sous. On the following Expenses on the road.... 14 morning a diligence leaves, Clermont for Paris between six and

62 seven o'clock, and arrives in Paris

By Neufchatel. at three. The fare is only 6 francs, From Calais to Abbeville. 18 the conductor not included; he From Abbeville to Rouen, by expects another franc. The. Hótel Neufchatel

9 de la Poste at Amiens, where the From Kouen to Paris

15 coach from Abbeville stops, is a Dinner at Boulogne.

4 Fery good one--so is the Hótel de Inn bill at Abbeville

6 l'Epée at Clermont, where the malle Ditto at Rouen and on the road 12 poste stops, and from whence the Conductors

6 coach to Paris sets out. At Anniens there are several

70 things. worth_seeing, particularly The time required for this jourthe Weeping Boy in the cathedral, ney is three clear days; sleeping which is one of the finest pieces of one night at Abbeville and one sculpture in France. At Clermont, night at Rouen. Rothing is lost by arriving at night,

By Dieppe. and setting out very early in the From Calais to Abbeville 18 morning The coach to Dieppe From Abbeville to Dieppe. 6 leaves Abbeville at about one o'clock Dinner at Boulogne....

4 in the day, and arrives at Dieppe in Inn bill at Abbeville

6 the evening. The fare is 6. francs, Ditto at Dieppe and on the road 10 iacluding all charges. As there is From Dieppe to Rouen

7 not one hotel in Dieppe which I lon bill at Rouen....

10 would recommend, the reader will From Rouen to Paris

15 excuse my saying more than this Conductors.

6 the coach stops at the Hôtel de Londres, at which house, for a

82 single night, the traveller may per

In this, four days are necessary baps be as well as at either of the to avoid travelling at night. others. The diligence to Rouen

By Amiens. leaves Dieppe at ten o'clock in the morning, and arrives in Rouen at Calais to Abbeville

18 three o'clock in the afternoon. The Abbeville to Amiens

4 16 fare is 7 francs.

Dinner at Boulogne

4 I shall now give a scale of the Inn bill at Abbeville

6 travelling expenses from Calais to Dinner at Amiens

4 Paris by the four modes, viz. direct Malle poste to Clermont 12 13 by Amiens, by Dieppe, and by Neuf. Inn bill at Clermont

3 chatel. There are three conveyances Coach from Clermont to to Paris from Calais direct. The Paris

6 grande diligence, the Hirondelle Expenses on the road

2 coach, and the malle poste. The Conductors ..

6 former leares Calais morning and evening, and is about thirty-two

66 9 Eur. Mag. March, 1823.


Fr. sous.

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In this, three days are necessary

a person who will content himself sleeping one night at Abbeville, and with one copious dish and the ordione night at Clermont.

nary wine, and do without coffee, The road by Dieppe is about may dine very well for 34 sous or sixty miles farther than direct to 16d. English. The same mode is Paris, and can only be recommended adopted by Frenchmen as to breakto persons who frave business in fast. Instead of ordering a regular Dieppe, or who wish to see the service of coffee, &c. they call for a beautiful country between that place bolle de café ; which is a good sized and Rouen, which is the finest in basin full, with bread and butter. France. Those who travel for plea- The charge is—coffee and bread 12 sure will take great interest in this sous, butter, 2 sous; or, in some route ; if, however, they are able to places, 4 sous. If eggs are ordered hear the imperative long sea voyage

they are charged three sous each ; from Brigtiton to Dieppe. They thus, instead of paying 2 francs for have nothing to see on the Calais a breakfast, the expense is only Road, which is the most dreary in 22 sous, or, according to the general Earope. The route by Neufchatel charge, 20 sous, which is just one is also much longer than the direct

half. An Englishman's travelling one, but by no means so long as by expenses in France are usually 15 Dieppe. By Amiens the difference or 20 francs a day, or if he is eco. is very trifling, about four or five nomical in his own way about 12 leagues only.

francs. A Frenchman will live My last journey was by Amiens better, or at least quite as well, for and 'Clermont, and my expenses

6 francs. In the south of France a were something under the scale Frenchman will travel at one third given in this article. When once of the expense which falls upon an away from the direct road frequented Englishman, who is ignorant of by the English, the charges are the proper modes ; because in that by no means high. At Clermont, part of France the regular charges where I slept and took coffee at at the Inns are lower than those of night and breakfast in the morning, other parts, whilst the charges to my Inu bill was as follows.

the English are higher than those in

Picardy and Normandy. Coffee and bread and butter

Before I left smoky, dirty, but to at night


an Englishman, still dear London, Bed

1 10 I heard much of the clear air and Breakfast


serene sky of Paris, and was full of

anticipation. The sun always shines Fr. 2 18

at Paris, said the little deputy of Or in English money 28. 5d. Cripplegate Ward, who, with his

On the road from Clermont to wife and two overgrown daughters, Paris, where the passengers dine, had taken a trip to the Capital in my bill was, Soup

6 the beautiful month of August. It Ragout of veal, very excellent 14 is never cold in Paris, said my Bread

3 frenchified uncle, who had resided Half a bottle of very good a winter there in one of those mild Chablis

15 years which now and then revolve, Coffee and brandy

10 and when there is no severe weather

even in England. With what de

Fr. 2 8 light did I enter this place on a fine In English money, 2s.

warm day in the early part of NoA dinner on the high road, with vember. The sky too was cloudless, bad wine and without coffee, is the wood-smoke rose rapidly from charged 4 francs. On French roads, the chimnies, and in an instant was where the English do not abound, lost in hydrogen or pure ether. The the mode of dining is always very people in the streets, inhaling the economical. The traveller goes into pure atmosphere as they walked the kitchen and takes his choice of along, seemed to me as full of fun any joint or poultry on the spit, or and frolic as Dr. Thornton's pupils from the contents of the stew pans. after inhaling his nitrous oxide. Each article is charged separately; The deputy was right-my uncle


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