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as it is, it is not much overdratn. ing the state of public sentiment, All we have to say is, that if it and of witnessing the condition of contribute in the smallest degree to the country. produce an amelioration of morals, The travelling in Spain is exby pointing out to humanity scenes tremely bad; all but the military of the most dreadful cruelty, the roads are in a state almost impassaauthor must feel himself amply re- ble, and infested with robbers and warded; and entitled to the praise mendicants. The inns are of the of all good men.
most wretched description, destitute
of provisions, frequently without A Visit to Spain, detailing the trans even a supply for travellers of coffee
actions which occurred during a or eggs ; either without furniture, residence in that Country, in the or with beds of the worst descriplatter part of 1822, and the first tion, and full of filth and vermine. four months of 1823. By Michael At the principal inn, only eight Quin, Barrister at Law, &c. Lon leagues from Madrid, they found don, 1823. 8vo. Pp. 359. but two beds, one rusty knife, and
a few wooden forks and spoons. In CONSIDERING the proximity of his journey, he witnesses no "neat Spain to England, and the easy cottages or well tilled gardens” on communication betwee the wo the road side, and no country houses countries, and considering also, that even in the neighbourhood of the the peninsula must, in every point largest cities, the capital included. of view, be an object of primary Such are the wretched effects of importance, we cannot help feeling despotism and superstition. The some surprize at our ignorance of condition to which the old governthat country:
How few English ment had reduced this fine country, literary travellers have made Spain is almost incredible.
The people the object of their historical and are without morals, without indusscientific researches. Townsend try, and in the grossest state of ig. was a classical and intelligent norance. The trade of Cadiz and traveller, but since his work was Seville was in decay, and even the published, Spain bas undergone Royal Cloth Manufactory, which sach numerous changes, that liis used to employ upwards of 3,000 volume has become rather one of workmen, latterly employed scarcehistorical curiosity, than of present ly one thousand." So grossly ignoinformation. We have had several rant are the Spaniards of all maamusing volumes of light narra chinery, that in this great manuratives of the events which have factory to this day, all the yarn is taken place in that country since spun by hand; the common spinthe year 1807, when it became the ning-jenny, or any other spinning scene of military and naval ex machine being unknown amongst ploits ; but invaluable as works des- them. So destitute are they of all cribing the Peninsula more minute. manufacturing industry and intelly would be, we are yet totally ligence, that even the inost humble destitute of them. No person of ribbon is supplied from France. science, of political sagacity, or of The opinions of all Spain, except statistical information, appears as the grandees and clergy, were deyet to have made Spain the object cidedly in favour of the Constitution: of his personal inquiries, although -but the subsequent apathy which that country, more than any other the people displayed at the triumph in Europe, would seem to invite of the enemy and of the constitutravellers of such a description. tional faction, is easily accounted
Mr. Quin left London in October, for by the influence which the priest1822, and proceeded to Madrid, vili hood exercised over the public mind, Calais, Paris, Bordeaux, Bayonne, and by the circumstances of the Tolosa, and Vittoria ; and from country requiring a greater sacrifice Madrid, he pursued his journey to in sapport of liberty than the lower Cadiz, 'through Toledo, Aranjuez, orders of any country are ever found Ocana, La Carolina, Andujar, and willing to submit to. Seville. In this route, he had, ne Our author describes the hall of tessarily; opportunities of ascertain the Cortes at Madrid as rich and well
decorated ; and it appears to have to be delightful. The obvious nous been far handsomer than either of of building streets in hot climates our houses of legislature. The pub is to make them extremely wide, to lic are admitted to hear the debates shade them either with trees, or with much greater liberality than in with colonades, and to shade the our gallery of the House of Com- houses with virandas ; but these are mons. Reports of speeches are open. luxuries .which the Spaniards have ly allowed by the Spaniards instead not yet arrived at, and their system of being done by stealth, as with is to render streets shady by making us ; and, finally, the Spanish Cortes them extremely narrow. In thus avoid that absurdity of the Bri- excluding the sun, they likewise extish Parliament of turning the pub- clude the breeze, and in consequence lic out of the house during the divin their large towns like Serille, are sion of a question. The Spanish infected with fever during the heat deputies speak from their individual of summer. The Cathedral of Seplaces, and not from any rostrum ville is of Moorish architecture, and like the French.
the most superb in Earope. The We have a long history of theatre is tolerably good, and the the Laudaburian Society; a society coffee houses on the plan of those which took its name from an officer at Paris. of the King's guard, who conscien As our limits will not suffer us to ciously resisted the insurrection of make such extracts as we could wish these men against the constitution, from this interesting work, we shall and was murdered by the soldiery. confine ourselves to one from Mr. The refectory of the suppressed con Quin's description of the Spanish vent of St. Thomas was assigned to theatres and bull fights. its use ; but the debates became rather too inflammatory, and the society “ Although the theatrical amusewas deprived of the protection of ments of Madrid are yet behind those Government. In these debates the of Paris and London, so far as good party called the Exaltados, or what acting and changes of fine scenery we should call the extreme radicals, are concerned, still they are not altóshewed much talent and rea elo- gether unworthy of notice. The opera quence, but often accompanied with particularly, is at least as good as great violence.
we had some years ago in London. The climate of Madrid, it appears, It is conducted at the principal the is far from salubrious, and the keen atre (El Teatro del Principe) by an north winds carry off a number of Italian company, which, though not the inhabitants by inflammation of numerous, possesses one or two enthe lungs. Our author describes engaging singers. The theatre is Madrid, with its elegant Prado, and about the size of the Lyceum, in the its one superb street, the Alcald ; Strand, and is well calculated for with the stately dulness of the inha the equal distribution of sound. The bitants, and their dislike to English boxes have a dull appearance, as society.
they are all painted a dead French We have a chapter descriptive of grey, without gilding or decoration the Escurial and of its present con of any sort, except that one or two dition, and a sort of travelling des have velvet cushions, fringed with cription of the country between Ma gold, which belong to noblemen. drid and Seville, and of the city of The King's box, which is in the se Seville itself. The population of Second circle opposite the stage, is, I ville, according to a late census, is am told, handsomely ornamented; 90,415 persons
whilst that of the ca. but when his Majesty is not present pital is only 140,000. The houses in (and it is very seldom lately that he Seville are only two stories high, and attends the theatre), his box is coverconstructed round a quadrangular ed over with a curtain of faded crimarea, paved with polished tile, cool son tapestry, which only increases ed by fountains, decorated with the dull aspect of the house. The vases, or planted with trees; and the boxes in the first circle are mostly retreat into these beautiful areas private property, being rented by from the close, narrow and burning annual subscriptions ; a considerastreets is described by all travellers ble space in the first cirale immedi
ately under the royal boxiis (formed and the last affords a passage to the into a kiud of tribune, which is al horses which drag out the bulls that lotted to females exclusively. On are slain. The lower gallery for the other hand, the pit is reserved as spectators' is at a distance of five or exclusively for the men; and, in six feet from the wooden boundary deed, nothing can be more desirable of the arena ; this unoccupied space for an amateur of music than one runs all round, in order that if the of the seats in this part of the the bulls overleap the boundary, as they atre. They are separated from each sometimes do, they might be preother by rails, which support the vented from injuring the spectators, arm, and each affords ample accom and be driven back to the arena, the modation for one person. They are nearest gate being opened. The lowall numbered, and the visitor occu er gallery, as well as the arena, is pies the number which he finds writ- exposed to the open air. The second ten on his card of admission. Thus, gallery, which is above the first, is in the first place, the inconvenience protected from the sun and rain by of a crowd is avoided, for no tickets a tier of boxes, and the latter are can be issued beyond the number roofed with tiles. Fifty reals are which the seats amount to. In the paid for the use of a whole box, four next place, by a timely application for a seat in the second gallery, and in the morning, one may purchase two for a place in the lower one. whatever seat he pleases; and if, “My prejudices against bull-fights during the performance, he wishes were strong, but happening one Sunto go out and return, his place is day to see crowds of men, women, still reserved. The convenience of and children hastening to the amsuch an arrangement is so obvious, phitheatre, I could not avoid followthat the London managers would ing in their train. Shortly after do well to adopt it.
three o'clock, crowds began to pour “ The theatres, however, do not ex. in rapidly. The women and young cite the public attention here so much girls were all in their hair, but coas they do in Paris and London. In vered, the better sort with black Madrid, as in the other principal lace veils, and those of the less towns of Spain, the amusement to afluent classes, with a black silk which the people are most fervently veil bordered with lace: The greater actached is that of the bull-fights. number of them had also their fans, In summer these exhibitions are car which the Spanish women use not ried to their highest degree of excel- only to cool their faces in warm lence : in winter they are limited to weather, but to guard their eyes six or seven bulls of inferior breed; from the sun, as their head-dress is which, however, sometimes afford ill calculated for this purpose. It what is considered good entertain was not uninteresting to a stranger ment. They are presented every to hear the members of different parSunday (except during the Lent), ties recognizing each other by such the weather permitting, in a large names as Barbara, Maragita, Heramphitheatre, specially constructed minia, _Olimpia, Nicanora, Nicofor these exhibitions,
lassa, Fernandina, Innocentio, Pa“The amphitheatre of Madrid is a tricio, Francisco, Pedro, and others short distance beyond the walls, of similar termination. about one hundred yards from the “ The director, dressed in the angate of Alcala. It is capable of cient Spanish style, with a short accommodating from six to eight black mantle, a hat turned up at the thousand spectators. Let the reader sides, and on the left side a plume imagine, in the first place, an exten of red and white feathers, rode into sive circular arena, which is bound the arena upon a handsome charger. .ed by a high and strong wooden par- After receiving the keys of the den tition that runs all round, and has from the Alcalde, who presided, and in it four gates at the four points of who sat in a box on the right of the the compass. One of these gates is king's box, he gave directions for used for the entry of the director of the entertainment to commence. the games and the performers en Two horses immediately appeared gaged in them; another for the entry in the arena, each laden with two of the bulls; the third for the egress clownish riders, who were seated on of those bulls which are not killed'; a pad back to back. The hinder
most rider kept his place by holding him. If he be in danger of being in his hand à cord attached to the overtaken, he lets the flag fall on the pad. In his right hand he bore a ground: the bull immediately stops long wooden staff
, pointed with iron and vents all bis rage upon it, as if A bull was then let into the arena under the impression that it conceals the tips of whose horns were made his adversary, while the fugitive has harmless by being covered with leadi time to get away in safety. As soon as he saw the horses, he “ The bull being now pretty well proceeded directly against one of fatigued, the banderilleros, who them, and the combatants, who were were also handsomely though very apparently new to the office, offer lightly dressed, armed themselves ing no effectual resistance with their with two strong steel darts each. spears, he easily overthrew both They were short, fitted for the hand, horse and riders. He then attacked and decorated with pieces of cat the other, and this contest was con paper, so as to disguise them. It tinued for some time with alternate was the object of each performer to success, the ball, however, being run towards the bull with agility, most frequently the conqueror, to and just as the animal was in the act the great amusement of the spec- of stooping the head to toss him, to tators.
fix the two darts in the back of the “. Upon a flourish of trumpets neck. As soon as the ball felt the being given, this bull retired, and points of the weapons, he lifted his two "fresh horsemen, on separate head again from pain, without athorses, entered. They were hand- tempting to touch his adversary, somely dressed, in white and red who thus had time to escape. The silk jackets, decorated with gold animal immediately endeavoured by lace; their hats. were white, with tossing his head to get rid of the & wide leaf, and a low round crown. darts; but this he was not often able These also carried each a long to accomplish, as they were strongly wooden staff or spear, with an iron bearded, and sometimes he was seen spike in the end of it, A bull was raging, round the arena, his neck then admitted, whose horns were in bristled with these torturing instrutheir natural condition. Nothing ments. At length, when he was can be finer than the entry of à almost exhausted, a matador (slayer) fierce proud bull into the arena. He approached him, holding in his left rushes in; astonished by the crowd hand a large red flag, with which of spectators: he stops a while, he engaged the bull's attention for looks around him, but when his a while, until, finding him in a eye lights on the horsemen in the convenient position, he thrust be arena, he paws the ground with the neath the shoulders and up to the majesty of a lion, and summons up very hilt a long sword, which le all his fury for the contest. This held in his right hand, and which engagement being attended with he had hitherto concealed from the danger, both to the horse and rider, eye of the animal as much as possiit excited strong interest. One of ble. The bull now fell, but was not the combatants, or as they are call. yet quite dead, when an attendant ed in Spanish, picadores (pikemen), came with a short knife, which he was thrown to the ground, but infixed at the junction of the spine happening to be near the boundary with the head, and instantly put an of the arena, some of the spectator's end to his agonies. He was then came to his assistance, and delivered dragged across the arena by three him from the rage of the ferocious horses, and carried away.
Two animal. The atiention of the ball balls were killed in this manner. .was, in the meantime, diverted by The second was an immenstly strong the banderilleros. These are pre- one : he leaped aftor the banderilledestrian performers, who carry in ros tivice over the boundary, bot one hand a flag (banderilla) of yel- from the arrangement already mentlow or red silk, with which they tioned, he was driven baek into the approach the bul). As soon as he arena without doing any mischiet. sees the gaudy colour, he rushes to * A third bull was killed in the wards it, and the flag bearer nos following barbarous way. A green with all his speed to escape over the fir-tree was planted in the arena, boundary, trailing the flag behind imoediately opposite the gate at
which the balls enter. Before this very opposite feelings. But, uns tree, a man covered with a kind of happily, politics is a subject on armour of stiff canvas, and having which, whoever does not speak dea false head of a monster with the cidedly is suspected of entertaining mouth open superadded to his own opinions and prejudices contrary to staturé, knelt on one knee. A thick
our own. The politician imagines wooden pole, pointed with a strong that every man is either for him or steel blade, was given to him, and against him. For our parts, we fixing the lower end of it in the think Mr. Quin has embraced that ground, he sloped the point so as to happy mediam, beyond which who meet the bull on entering at the ever passes, passes also beyond the gate. The pole being so tixed, the bounds of reason and common sense. gate was opened, and a wild bull immediately rushed in with such The Footman's Directory and Butamazing force, that the spear pene ler's Remembrancer. London. trated completely through the ribs, 1823. 12mo. Pp. 324. and came out near the back. Stili the animal was not mortally wounds. It has been observed by moral ed. : He attacked his adversary fun and political writers of high authoriously, who pretending to be deadrity, and the observation has been permitted himself to be rolled about. frequently reiterated, that the world The bull seeing the thing before has not yet seen a class of books him apparently shapeless and void adapted to the lower orders of soof life, soon left it, and ran mad- ciety. Those who entertain, what dened over the arena, the spear still we should call, the reprehensible remaining in his side.
It was a
opinion that the poor ought not to shocking spectacle; but still so be educated, triuniphantly ask, after strong was the animal, that the ma the labouring classes are taught to tador could not get near enough, read and write, what are the occa without manifest danger, to kill sions on which their writing can be him. At length by means of a aseful, and where are the books curved knife, which was fixed on a that are at all adapted to an order of long pole, one of the assistants cut people who are instructed merely in the ham-strings. Even after this the initiatory branches of education? the victim made efforts to move ; For our parts, we should reply to but at last he fell, and his agonies such arguments, that the want of were terminated in the usual manner. such a description of books is mere The whole concluded with a dis. ly the effect of the ignorance in play of fire-works which was upon which the poor have been kept, a limited scale. There was about five that, with books as with all other or six thousand persons present." things, demand naturally produces
Our limits will not permit us to supply, and therefore as soon as proceed farther in our notice of this education is diffused amongst the interesting, work; interesting at lower orders of society, there will any time from the judgment which be an abundance of works adapted Mr. Quin has evinced in his selec to their capacities, and to the extent tion of circumstances and traits of of their knowledge. Our Gallic national character, but more parti neighbours have by no means been cularly interesting at the present struck with this obvious reflection, moment, from the important scenes for apprehensive of a want of books, of which Spain has been made the adapted to the poor who are now theatre.
receiving instruction in France, the We know there are some who government has employed a number suspect Mr. Quin, not only of en, of persons to write narrative and tertaining, but of giving expression didactic works, of a description to political feelings, which incline suited to the lower classes. In this to toryism and abitrary rule; but if country several individuals. have we can offer an opinion derived from lately published works of practical the impression made upon us by the utility to the lower orders, such as perusal of his work, we must say, will materially assist in the diffuthat we would be more inclined to sion of sound morals and decent suspect him of indulging in the labits i throughout the humbler