You are not to fuppofe that here are to be any more towns or inns. We came to a cottage which they call the general's hut, where we alighted to dine, and had eggs and bacon, and mutton, with wine, rum, and whiskey.

I had water.

At a bridge over the river, which runs into the Nefs, the rocks rife on three fides, with a direction almoft perpendicular, to a great height; they are in part covered with trees, and exhibit a kind of dreadful magnificence;ftanding like the barriers of nature placed to keep different orders of being in perpetual feparation. Near this bridge is the Fall of Fiers, a famous cataract, of which, by clambering over the rocks, we obtained a view. The water was low, and therefore we had only the pleasure of knowing that rain would make it at once pleasing and formidable ; there will then be a mighty flood, foaming along a rocky channel, frequently obstructed by protuberances and exasperated by rever beration, at laft precipitated with a sudden defcent, and loft in the depth of a gloomy chafm.

We came fomewhat late to Fort Augustus, where the lieutenant governor met us beyond the

the gates, and apologised that at that hour he could not, by the rules of a garrifon, admit us otherwise than at a narrow door which only one can enter at a time. We were well entertained and well lodged, and next morning, after having viewed the fort, we pursued our journey.

Our way now lay over the mountains, which are not to be paffed by climbing them directly, but by traverfing, fo that as we went forward. we faw our baggage following us below in a direction exactly contrary. There is in these ways much labour but little danger, and perhaps other places of which very terrifick representations are made are not in themselves more formidable. Thefe roads have all been made by hewing the rock away with pickaxes, or bursting it with gunpowder. The ftones so separated are often piled loofe as a wall by the way-fide. We faw an infcription importing the in which one of the regiments year made two thousand yards of the road eaftward.

After tedious travel of fome hours we came to what I believe we must call a village, a place where there were three huts built of turf, at one of which we were to have our

dinner and our bed, for we could not reach any better place that night. This place is called Enock in Glenmorrifon. The house in which we lodged was diftinguished by a chimney, the rest had only a hole for the smoke. Here we had eggs, and mutton, and a chicken, and a fausage, and rum. In the afternoon tea was made by a very decent girl in a printed linen; she engaged me fo much, that I made her a préfent of Cocker's arithmetick.

THE

into these parts, is so foon to go that I have not time to go on where I left off in my laft letter. I have been feveral days in the island of Raarsa, and am now again in the isle of Skie, but at the other end of it.

Skie is almoft equally divided between the two great families of Macdonald and Macleod, other

II

other proprietors having only small districts. The two great lords do not know within twenty fquare miles the contents of their own territories.

kept up but ill the reputation of Highland hofpitality; we are now with Macleod, quite at the other end of the island, where there is a fine young gentleman and fine ladies. The ladies are studying Earse. I have a cold, and am miferably deaf, and am troublesome to Lady Macleod; I force her to fpeak loud, but she will seldom fpeak loud enough.

Raarsa is an island about fifteen miles long and two broad, under the dominion of one gentleman who has three fons and ten daughters; the eldest is the beauty of this part of the world, and has been polished at Edinburgh: they fing and dance, and without expence have upon their table most of what fea, air, or earth can afford. I intended to have written about Raarfa, but the poft will not wait longer than while I fend my compliments to my dear master and little miftreffes.

I am, &c.

I

LETTER LXXIX.

To Mrs. THRAL E.

DEAREST MADAM,

Skie, Sept. 21, 1773

AM fo vexed at the neceffity of sending yesterday fo fhort a letter, that I purpose to get a long letter beforehand by writing fomething every day, which I may the more eafily do, as a cold makes me now too deaf to take the usual pleasure in converfation. Lady Macleod is very good to me, and the place at which we now are, is equal in ftrength of fituation, in the wildness of the adjacent country, and in the plenty and elegance of the domestick entertainment, to a castle in Gothick romances. The fea with a little ifland is before us; cafcades play within view. Clofe to the house is the formidable skeleton of an old caftle probably Danish, and the whole mafs of building ftands upon a protuberance of rock, inacceffible till of late but by a pair of stairs on the fea fide, and fecure in ancient times against any enemy that was likely to invade the kingdom of Skie.

Macleod