in water. Strain this liquid, and when cool, add two ounces of guin arabic in powder, which should be kept in well stopped bottles for use. Then go gently over the coat with a sponge wet in the above liquid diluted to suit the color, and hang it in the shade to dry. After which brush the nap smooth, and it will look as good as new. The liquid will suit all brown or dark colors if properly diluted, of which it is easy to judge.

(4.) To extract Oil or Spermaceti from a Carpet or other Wooten.

ff oil has been spilt on a carpet, that part of the carpet must be Loosened up, and the floor beneath it well scrubbed with warm soap and water, and fuller's earth; otherwise the grease will continue yet to come through. You may extract some of the oil by washing that part of the carpet with cold water and a cloth. Then spread over it a thin coating of scraped Wilmington clay, which should be renewed every two or three hours. If you have no Wilmington clay, take common magnesia.

To remove spots of spermaceti, scrape off as much as you can with a knife, then lay on a thin, soft, white paper upon the spots, and press it with a warm iron. By repeating this you may draw out the spermaceti. Afterwards rub the cloth where the spots have been, with some very soft brownish paper.

Wilmington clay, which may be had in small round balls, is excel ient for removing grease spots however large. Scrape down a suffi cient quantity, and rub on the spot, letting it rest an hour or more then brush it off, and continue to repeat the process. The genuine Wilmington clay, pure and unmixed, is far superior to any other grease ball sold by the druggists.

(5.) To extract Grease Spots.

Grease of the very worst kind, (whale oil, for instance,) may be extracted even from silks, ribbons, and other delicate articles, by means of camphine oil. As this oil is the better for being fresh, get but little at a time. Pour some camphine into a cup, and dip lightly with clean, soft, white rag. With this rub the grease spot. Then take a fresh rag dipped in the camphine, and continue rubbing till the grease is extracted, which will be very soon. The color of the article will be uninjured. To remove the turpentine odor of the camphine, rub the place with Cologne water or strong spirits of wine, and expose it to the open air. Repeat this process if any odor remains after the first.

(6.) To take Mildew out of Linen.

Take soap and rub it well; then scrape some fine chalk, and rub that also in the linen; lay it on the grass; as it dries, wet it a little, and it will soon come out.

(7.) To take Paint off of Cloths.

Rub with spirits of turpentine or spirits of wine, either will answer if the paint is but just on. But if be is allowed to harden, nothing will remove it but spirits of turpentine rubbed on with perseverance a soft sponge or a soft rag.

Use

(8.) To clean White Kid Gloves.

Stretch them on a board, and rub the soiled spots with cream of tartar or magnesia. Let them rest an hour, then take a mixture of alum and fuller's earth in powder, and rub it all over the gloves with a clean brush, and let them rest again for an hour or two. Then sweep it all off, and go over with a flannel dipped in a mixture of bran and finely powdered whiting. Let them rest another hour; brush off the powder, and you will find them clean.

(9.) To wash Colored Kid or Hoskin Gloves.

Have, on a table, a clean towel, folded three or four times, a saucer of new milk, and a piece of brown soap. Spread a glove smoothly on the folded towel, dip into the milk a piece of clean flannel, rub it on the soap until you get enough, and then commence rubbing the glove, beginning at the wrist, and rubbing lengthwise to the ends of the fingers, the glove being held firmly in the left hand. When done, spread them out to dry gradually. When nearly dry, pull them out the crosc way of the leather, and when quite dry, stretch them on your hand.

(10.) To clean White Leather Gloves.

White leather gloves may be cleaned to look very well, by putting on one at a time, and going over them thoroughly with a shaving brush and lather. Then wipe them off with a clean handkerchief or sponge, and dry them on the hands by the fire, or in the sun.

(11.) To preserve Furs from Moths.

Wrap up a few cloves or pepper ears with them when you put them away for any length of time.

(12.) To extract Durable Ink.

Rub the ink stain with a little sal-ammonia moistened with water

(13.) To remove Stains from Cotton and Linen.

Put a small quantity of brimstone into an iron vessel, and drop in a live coal of fire; having first wet the stained spot with water, lay the cloth over the vessel, so as to let the fumes have full access to tho stained spot, and it will soon disappear, or become loose os as to wash out.

ON THE CARE OF FURNITURE AND HOUSEKEEPING ARTICLES.

(1.) To clean the inside of Jars.

There is frequently some trouble in leaning the inside of jars that Dave had sweatmeats, pickles, mince-neat, or other articles put up in them for keeping, and that when empty are wanted for further use. This can be done in a few minutes, without scraping or soaking, by filling up the jars with hot water, (it need no be scalding hot, and

then stirring in a teaspoonful or more of pearlash. Whatever of the former contents has remained sticking about the sides and bottom of the jar will immediately be seen to disengage itself, and float loose through the water. Then empty the jar at once, and if any of the former odor remains about it, fill it again with warm water and pearlash, and let it stand undisturbed a few hours, or till next day; then empty it again, and rinse it with cold water. Wash phials in the same manner. Also, the insides of kettles, or anything which you wish to purify or clear from grease expeditiously and completely. If you cannot conveniently obtain pearl-ash, the same purpose may be answered nearly as well, by filling the vessels with strong ley, poured off clear from the wood-ashes. For kegs, buckets, crocks, or other very large vessels, ley may be always used.

(2.) To clean Wine Decanters.

Use a little pearl-ash or soda, and some cinders and water. Rinse them well out with clean water.

(3.) To clean China.

Use a little fuller's earth and soda, or pearl-ash, with your water.

(4.) Cements.

Cements of various kinds should be kept for occasional use. Flou. paste answers very well for slight purposes; if required stronger that usual, let a little glue be boiled in it, or put some powdered rosin in it. White of egg, or a solution of glue and strong gum water, are good cements. A paste made of linseed meal dries very hard, and adheres firmly. A soft cement is made of yellow wax melted with its weight of turpentine, and a little Venetian red to give it color. This, wher cool, is as hard as soap, and is very useful to stop up cracks, and is better to cover the corks of bottles than sealing-wax or hard cement.

The best cement for broken China or glass, is that sold under the name of th diamond cement, which is colorless, and resists moisture This is made by soaking isinglass in water till it is soft, and then dis solving it in proof spirit. Add to this a little gum-ammoniac, or galbonam, or mastic, both dissolved in as little alcohol as possible. When the cement is to be used, it must be gently liquified by placing the phial containing it in boiling water. The phial must be well closed by a good cork, not by a glass stopper, as they may become forced. It is applied to the broken edges with a camel's hair pencil.

When the objects are not to be exposed to moisture, the white of an egg alone, or mixed with finely sifted quick-lime, will answer pretty well; shellac, dissolved in water, is better.

A very strong cement for earthenware is made by boiling slices of skim-milk cheese with water into a paste, and then grinding it with quick-lime in a marble mortar, or on a slab, with a mallet.

(5.) To remove dark stains from Silver.

A certain remedy for the most inveterate stains that are sometimes to be seen on teaspoons and other silver ware, tain from a drug

gist a small phial of sulphuric acid, and pouring a little of it inte a saucer, wet with it a soft linen rag, and rub it on the blackened silver till the stain disappears. Then brighten the article with whiting finely powdered and sifted, and wetted with whiskey or spirits of wine. When the whiting has dried on, and rested a quarter of an hour or more, wipe it with a silk handkerchief, and polish with a soft buckskin.

(6.) To prevent Lamps smoking.

It is very often difficult to get a good light from a lamp, and yet keep it from smoking, but if the wick be first soaked in strong vinegar, and then thoroughly dried, this annoyance will be prevented. Still the wick must not be put up too high.

(7.) To take stains out of Mahogany.

Mix spirits of salt 6 parts, and salt of lemons 1 part, then drop a little on the stains, and rub them until they disappear.

(8.) To clean Britannia Ware.

Britannia ware should be first washed with a woolen cloth and sweet oil, then washed in water and suds, and rubbed with soft leather and whiting. Thus treated, it will retain its beauty to the last.

(10.) To clean Looking-glasses.

when

Take a newspaper, or part of one, according to the size of the glass. Fold it small, and dip it into a basin of clean cold water, thoroughly wet, squeeze it out in your hand as you would sponge, and then rub it hard all over the face of the glass, taking care that it is not so wet as to run down in streams. In fact, the paper must only be completely moistened, or damped all through. After the glass has been well rubbed with the wet paper, let it rest a few minutes; and then go over it with a fresh dry newspaper (folded small in your hand) till it looks clear and bright-which it will almost immediately, and with no further trouble.

This method, simple as it is, is the best and most expeditious for cleaning mirrors, and it will be found so on trial-giving it a clearness and polish that can be produced by no other process. It is equally convenient, speedy, and effective. The inside of window frames may be cleaned in this manner to look beautifully clear; the windows being first washed on the outside; also the glasses of spectacles, &c The glass globe of an astral lamp may be cleaned with a newspaper in the above manner.

(11.) To clean Mahogany and Marble, and to restore Mahogany Varnish.

Use no soap on them; wash them in fair water, and rub them till dry with a clean soft cloth. A little sweet oil, rubbed on occasionally, gives them a polish. Rub furniture with a cloth dipped in oil; then with a clean cloth, till dry and polished. Rubbing with sweet oil will restore the spots from which the varnish has been removed. White spots on varnished furniture may be removed, by rubbing them with a warm flannel, dipped in spirits of turpentine. Remove ink spots by

rubbing them with a woolen cloth, dipped in the oil of vitriol and water Be careful to touch only the spots with the vitriol. Rinse them with saleratus water, and then with fair water. It is said, blotting paper will extract the ink, if rolled up, and rubbed hard on the spots. Mahogany furniture may be beautifully polished thus:-Rub it with cold drawn linseed oil; wipe off the oil, and polish by rubbing smartly with a clean dry cloth. And marble may be cleaned thus :-Pound, very fine, a little stone blue with four ounces of whiting; mix them with an ounce of soda dissolved in a little water, and four ounces of soft soap; boil all fifteen minutes over a slow fire, carefully stirring it. When quite hot, lay it on the marble with a brush, and let it remain alf an hour; wash it off with warm water, flannel, and a scrubbing brush and wipe it dry. Some clean alabaster and all kinds of marble, by mixing pulverized pumice stone with verjuice, letting it remair several hours; then dipping in a perfectly clean sponge, and rubbing the marble till clean. Rinse it off with fair water, and rub it dry with a clean linen cloth.

(12.) To clean Knives and Forks.

Use finely powdered Bath brick to remove rust, and to polish steel utensils. Rub knives on a board with a thick leather cover over it fastened down tight, applying a cork dipped in the powder, and moistened, if they are spotted. Do not wet them, only wipe them with a dry cloth. Wipe the handles with a cloth rather damp, to make them smooth; do not touch the blades, as it will tarnish them. It will yellow ivory handles to dip them in hot water. If yellow, rub them with sand paper. If Bath brick does not remove rust from steel, rub the spots with sand paper or emery, or rub on sweet oil and let it remain a day, and then rub it off with quicklime. Clean thoroughly steel utensils that are not in constant use; rub them over with sweet oil, and exclude the air by a wrapper of brown paper, wrapping each knife and fork separately.

(13.) To clean Stoves and Stone Hearths

Put on varnished stoves several coats of varnish in the summer, to have it get hard before used. Wash them in warm water, without soap, and rub a little oil on them occasionally. It will make them look nice, and prevent the varnish wearing off. Black stoves that have never been varnished, with black lead and British lustre. It will not answer if they have been varnished. Mix them with cold water to a paste, rub it on the stoves, and let the paste remain till quite dry; then rub the stoves with a dry, stiff, flat brush, till clean and polished. To preserve the color of freestone hearths, wash them in water without any soap; rub on them, while damp, pulverized freestone; let it remain till dry, and then rub it off. If staired, rub them hard with a piece of freestone. To have your hearths look dark, rub them with pure soft soap, or dilute it with water. Use reddening for brick hearths, mixed with thin hot starch and milk.

(14.) To remove Putty and Paint from Window-glass. Put saleratus into hot water, till very strong; saturate the putty or