THE ABERGELDIE WATERPROOF CLOAK. The models in this portion of our plate, give the exact form of the ABERGELDIE WATERPROOF CLOAK, when completed to its full length, as described on page 1 of our letterpress. At the right and left hand corners, we give engravings of the back and front views of this Waterproof when made up. On the model of the front, our engravers have indicated the buttons, the buttonholes and the pocket. The sleeve shows the form of cuff: the back and sidepiece may be cut either separately, as in our full-sized pattern, or may be cut in one piece as here indicated. According to our usual custom, the white portions of these models represent the the full-sized pattern in tissue paper as we have given it: the shaded parts show the additions that have to be made in order to complete the pattern to its full length. For a very tall lady the length may of course be more than we have given, while for a lady of short stature less length will be required. To enlarge the size, add to the front half an inch all down the front edge: to the side-piece, add nearly half an inch at the seam under the arm: in the back, add about half an inch at the seam in the middle. Those Ladies who prefer to have this Waterproof pattern all ready cut out to its full size, can obtain it on thin paper by enclosing 5 stamps, to the EDITOR, at 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. THE THE Ladies' Monthly Magazine, WORLD OF A JOURNAL OF FASHION, LITERATURE, MUSIC, THE OPERA, AND THE THEATRES. ON LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS. We are now approaching the close of the Winter, and the London Season, which is unusually early this year, has already commenced. Never perhaps have the ladies' Toilettes been richer in style than at the present time, and indeed the Fashions of this season may be briefly described as combining an almost classic severity of outline, with richness, graceful elegance, and an infinite variety of effect, but without the least exaggeration. The characteristic features of the present style are chiefly displayed in the richness and distinctive character of the trimmings, in the art of harmonising the different materials of a Costume, and in contrasting the lustre of velvet or silk, with the sober tones of plain or snow-flaked woollens. The Robe Princesse, the Polonaise or Tunique, and the Cuirasse Corsage are all equally fashionable. The Gilet or Plastron style is still increasing in favor. Tabliers are always more or less draped. Dress skirts are still worn perfectly plain round the hips, but there are indications of a return to a more flowing style for the lower part of skirt. The tying back and narrowing of skirts had lately become exaggerated, in some cases almost passing the limits of good taste; any change must therefore be in the direction of a somewhat more flowing and graceful style of drapery. Pelisses and Paletots for outdoor wear, always have the skirts long and define the figure in some degree; cloth is the favorite material: the trimmings are passementerie, fringe and fur. Ball Toilettes are richer in style than ever, as will be seen by a glance at our third plate. Corsages may be made with round or square openings, both styles are equally fashionable. The Mercedes Corsage with the square plastron or gilet in front, is as novel in form as it is elegant in appearance. Dinner Dresses are of course somewhat quieter in style, and are not cut so low in the neck as Ball Toilettes. VOL. 55. THE FULL-SIZED PATTERNS. All allowances necessary for the seams, are already given to these Patterns, so that the seams NEED NOT be allowed for when cutting out, except in materials that require extra wide turnings in. The Patterns are all suited for Ladies of medium height and of proportionate figure: measuring 343 inches round the chest and 24 waist, unless otherwise stated in the description. A very easy manner of altering any of our patterns when cutting out, so as to suit Larger or Smaller Sizes, was given in our number for February, 1874, copies of which may be had from the Editor, by enclosing 7 postage stamps. The first full-sized pattern given with this month's Number is the ABERGELDIE WATERPROOF CLOAK. The fronts are double-breasted and fall perfectly square, while at back the figure is slightly defined by the shape of the side seams. Starting at about nine inches below the waist there are large pleats at the side seams and in the middle of back; these pleats give sufficient fulness to the bottom of skirt to allow the wearer to sit down, without the waterproof opening or dragging at the front. The sleeve is wide enough to pass easily over a dress sleeve, and the shoulders are covered by a triple cape. The pattern consists of front, sidepiece, back, cape and sleeve. Our paper would not permit us to give the full length either of front, sidepiece, back or sleeve; the front will have to be lengthened 30 inches at the front edge and 28 inches at the seam under the arm; the side piece will have to be lengthened 224 inches at the seam under the arm, and 26 inches at the pleat; the back must be lengthened 27 inches at the pleat in the middle, and 26 inches at the pleat which joins to the side body. The sleeve must be lengthened 11 inches at the fore-arm and 15 inches at the hind-arm; the width at wrist being 8 inches. When completed, the width at bottom of front should be 29 inches; the bottom of side piece should be 18 inches, and the bottom of back skirt 14 inches. Ladies who prefer to save themselves the trouble of lengthening this pattern, may obtain it already cut out in full size, by enclosing 5 stamps to the Editor, at 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London. The second pattern (the pieces of which are all indicated by one round hole) is the MERCEDES CORSAGE FOR A BALL DRESS, as illustrated on the second figure of plate 3 it has a square opening at back and front of neck, and consists of four pieces, viz :-middle of front or plastron, front, sidepiece, and back. The Plastron is the long narrow piece with a notch near the bottom and two small cuts near the top; the straight edge of the plastron is the middle of front, and is to be laid on a double edge of the material, so that the plastron may be all in one piece; the notch near the bottom corresponds to a similar notch at the bottom of front. The real edge of front, which must meet the edge of plastron, is shown by the line of pricking which extends from the neck to the notch at the bottom of skirt; a band about an inch wide is left beyond this pricked line, to carry the buttons by which the sides of plastron are fastened to the sides of front. The back has a long narrow fish or pleat taken out as marked by pricking; if preferred, the back may be cut with five seams, separating it into two pieces by cutting it along the pricked lines. |