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is still considered in that light by the Highlanders, of which I once saw an instance in Flanders. Dropping the Gauntlet, at the Coronation, is a kind of challenge.

When the Judge invites the Justices to dine with him at a County Assize, a Glove is handed about by the Crier or Clerk of the Court, who delivers the invitation; into this Glove every one invited puts a shilling. A Bribe is called a Pair of Gloves. In a Play, I think called the Twin Rivals, an Alderman presents his Glove, filled with Broad Pieces, to a Nobleman, as a Bribe to procure a Commission for his Son.

Item, for three dozen Leder Gloves, 12s. Vide Account of Henry VII. in Remembrancer's Office.

I set off next week for Christchurch, where I propose staying a month, or six weeks at farthest. My best wishes attend you and yours.

Adieu!

F. Grose.

312 ERMINE.

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Gentlewomen's Apparel.

What we call Ermine is an erroneous conception, for we give the name to White Fur tufted with Black, whereas it is the Black only that is properly Ermine, of which numberless instances may be produced, and this is one.

Powderings on her Bonnet.—This may require an explanation to those who are unacquainted with the language of that age. What we call Ermine, is a compound, which will bear a little analysis, for it is formed of tbe Fur of one animal, and the tip of the Tail of another. The White Ground is, properly speaking, Minever, so called from a Russian animal of that name. [v. Philips's Dictionary, in voce.] The Ermine is the Armenian Mouse, the tip of whose Tail is Black, which being placed as a falling tuft upon the Minever, forms what we collectively call Ermine, the value of which is enhanced the more, as one animal can afford but one tuft. [v. Bailey's Diet, in voce.] Every one of these tufts is termed a Powdering.

The Heralds make a distinction between the singular Ermine, and the Plural, Ermines; the latter, in their language, importing Black powdered with White: and they go into still more minute modifications, Erminois, &c.

Apparel For The Heads Op
Gentlewomen.

First, none shall wear an Ermine, or Lettice-Bonnet, unless she be a Gentlewoman born, having Arms.

Item, a Gentleman's Wife, she being a Gentlewoman born, shall wear an Ermine or Lettice Bonnet, having one Powdering in the Top. And if she be of honourable stock, to have two Powderings,'one before another, in the Top.

Item, an Esquire's Wife to have two Powderings.

Item, an Esquire'& Wife jfor the Body to wear Jive Powderings; and if she be of great Blood, two before, which maketh seven.

Item, a Knight's Wife to wear on her Bonnet, seven Powderings, or eight at the most, because of higher Blood, as before.

Item, a Banneret's Wife to wear ten Powderings.

Item, a Baron's Wife thirteen.

Item, a discount's[YJ\fe^to wear eighteen,

Item, a Countess to wear twenty-Jour. And above that Estate the number convenient, at their pleasures.

Ex Bibl. Harl. No. 1776. fol. 31. b.

MOURNING.

The French Queens, before the Reign of Charles VIII. wore White upon the death of the King; and were called "Reines Blanches." It was changed to Black on the death of Charles VIII. 1498. [See P. Dan. Hist. iv. 590.]

In a Wardrobe account for half a year, to Lady-day 1684 (a MS. purchased by Mr. Brander at the sale of the Library of Geo. Scot, Esq. of Woolston-Hall, 1781), are the following entries for the King's Mourning.

"A Grey Coat lined with Murrey and White flowered Silk, with Gold Loops, and four Crape Hat-bands."

Again, "A Sad-coloured Silk Coat, lined with Gold-striped Lutestring, with Silverand-Silk Buttons; and a Purple Crape Hatband."

Again, "A Purple Coat." The Emperor Leopold, who died 1705, never shaved his Beard during the time of Mourning, which often lasted for a long time. [Bancks's Hist, of Austria, p. 277-3

The Empress-Dowagers never lay aside their Mourning, and even their Apartments are hung with Black till their deaths. ^Bancks's Hist, of Austria, p. 400. He says this from Baron Polnitz's Memoirs, vol. iv. p. 46.]

The Bavarian Family never give a Black Livery, or line their Coaches, in the deepest Mourning. [Polnitz, i. letter 22.J

The Pope's Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their nearest Relations; as the Romans reckon it so great a happiness for a

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