A.-MODERN ATHENS. INDEX. English Church Protestant Cemetery American Female School University Educational Establishments Observatory PAGE 130 130 130 130 131 132 | three first-class hotels. They leave little to desire. They are the Hôtel d'Angleterre; the Hôtel de la Grande-Bretagne; and the Hôtel des Etrangers. At present hotel is 10 francs a day for each trathe expense of living at the last-named veller. At the Hôtel d'Angleterre and at the Grande-Bretagne each person pays 12 francs a day. This charge includes lodging and board at the table-d'hôte, but not wine, service, or lights. The Hôtel d'Angleterre has the best suite of apartments, and is rather more expensive than either of the others. The Hôtel des Etrangers is new and cleanly, and for persons rethe recommendation that they are not maining some time at Athens it has charged for dinner, if giving notice that they intend to dine out. At the other hotels they pay the full daily charge whether dining at home or not. At the Hôtel de la Grande-Bretagne and the Hôtel d'Angleterre, Galignani's Messenger' is taken in, at the latter also the Times;' at the Hôtel des Etrangers there is a reading-room, where the Times' and several French and German papers may be read: there are likewise excellent baths at this hotel. These three hotels are situated near each other on the square in front of the Palace, where a band plays in winter on Sunday and on Thursday afternoons and on Sundays and Tuesdays in summer. : Several other hotels exist at Athens: the Hôtel d'Orient and the Hôtel de la Couronne can be recommended. The living at the Hôtel d'Orient (Eolus Street, which is both good and cleanly, costs for each person 8 francs a day. This hotel is kept by дanny Adamopoulos, the well-known travelling servant, who possesses a long list of excellent certificates from Englishmen who have performed journeys under his care. There are other inns and restaurants, but some of them are merely Greek eating-houses, not adapted to the reception of English travellers. At the new Hôtel de Paris, in Hermes Street, one may board and Hotels.-At Athens there are now lodge for 7 francs a day. Chamber of Deputies Palace Cathedral Church of St. Theodore St. Nicodemus 132 132 134 134 134 Cafés, resembling those of Italy, For foreign books, prints, maps, &C., abound in all Greek towns. The best the shop of Karl Wilberg, a German at Athens is the Café de la Belle Grèce, bookseller, in Hermes Street, is the situated in Eolus Street, near the centre best. The best map of Athens is that of the city. There are other establish- published by Kiepert, and which is ments where ices, &c., may be procured, nearly the same as that given in such as Solon's and the Luxembourg | this Handbook. Besides Kiepert, the on the Patissia Road, and others on the Palace Square. French Government has published a magnificent Map of Greece on a very extended scale. For varietés, the shop of Messrs. Philip, frères, in Hermes Street, is noted, as are those of Tsatso, Pappagiorgion, and Madame Jacob, in the same street. Photographers.-For views of Athens and its monuments, travellers should visit the establishment of Demetrius Constantine, at No. 72, Eolus Street (near the Hôtel d'Orient), where excellent large photographs may be purchased at 3 francs each, and smaller ones at 1 franc. Mr. Constantine speaks English. Houses.-House rent is enormously The booksellers for the sale of high at Athens, considering the condi- modern Greek works, school-books, &c., tion of the country. The seat of govern-are Coromelás and Vlastós, in Hermes ment was transferred to Athens from Street, and Naki in Eolus Street. Nauplia in 1834, and King Otho made his public entry in December of that year. The medieval town had been completely devastated during the War of Independence; and that which has arisen on its ruins since 1834 has somewhat the general appearance of a German city. The ruinous walls, 4 m. in circumference, which surrounded Athens in the time of the Turks, have been pulled down, in order to extend the Hellenic capital. A new quarter of good houses has been built on the N. side of the city, stretching westward from the Palace till it reaches Eolus Street. This is the "West End" of Athens; here are the residences of Physicians and Surgeons, &c.-There the diplomatic corps, including that of are several excellent medical men in the English Minister. These houses are Athens. Doctors Treiber (German), solidly built, and many are large and and Macas, Marato, and Pretenderi commodious. The rents are from 50l. to (Greeks). The best apothecary is 4001. per annum, unfurnished. Straight Leonidas G. Basilio, by the Hôtel d'Anlines for wide streets and boulevards gleterre. These gentlemen have all have been marked out in other direc-been educated in Northern or Western tions, and well-built houses are spring-Europe, and speak several languages. ing up on every side. Some of the in- One should take precautions here ferior streets are still encumbered with against sudden variations of temperahovels which, previously to the re-ture, which may occasion fever, and one moval of the Court to Athens, ren- should rest during the heat of the day. dered it a labyrinth of narrow, crooked Those persons who may wish to and irregular lanes. The popula-study modern Greek should consult, tion of Athens before the Revolution as to a teacher, with some person resiamounted to from 12,000 to 15,000, dent in Athens. it is now (1871) estimated at over 48,000, not including the Piræus, the population of which place numbers over 11,000. Athens and the Piræus may be said, in round numbers, to contain 60,000 souls. Shops. The shops of Athens have been much improved of late years. Bankers. Besides the National Bank of Greece, there are several foreign and Greek banking-firms at Athens. The English traveller will of course deal with the correspondent of his London Banker. The London Custom-house Agents have also corréspondents here. With the exception of chibouques, sticks, and pipes made of | small indeed. The service is performed the blackthorn of Parnassus, and Greek throughout the year on Sundays and or Albanian dresses (which cost from on the chief Festivals and Fasts, at 10l. to 301., or even 501., according to 11 A.M. and 3:30 P.M. A painted their quality), there are few curiosities window is about to be put up in this worth purchasing at Athens. church by Lord Muncaster, in memory of Mr. Frederick Vyner. Travelling Servants (GENERAL INTRODUCTION, f). The best travelling servants and valets-de-place will be found at the principal hotels. Amongst such is Alexander Annemoyanni, who was fully acquitted of the imputation attributed to him, in 1870, of having been in collusion with brigands. They all speak French and Italian, and several of them speak English. Amongst these are the Ionian dragomans of the Hôtel des Etrangers and of the Hôtel d'Angleterre. No traveller should engage a servant who is not recommended by the proprietor of one of the chief hotels. For arrange-arrangement with Mr. Hill for the ments made, see GENERAL INTRODUCTION, f. The Protestant Cemetery, at some little distance from the English church, is near the banks of the Ilissus. The Greek Cemetery, also near the Ilissus, contains the tomb of Sir Thomas Wyse, who was for many years British Minister at Athens. Comfortable two-horsed carriages are to be hired in the streets (äuata). There is no tariff of charges, and if a vehicle be hired for a long distance a bargain must be made. A"course" is generally charged for at the rate of a drachma, and "an hour" at 2, in the town. The American Female School at Athens was commenced by the Rev. J. H. Hill and Mrs. Hill, who were sent out by the Protestant Episcopal Church of the United States in 1831. The Greek Government made an education of a certain number of girls as future schoolmistresses in the provinces; and from this origin have arisen the female schools of Greece. In 1842 the establishment for domestic education was transferred to the care of the newly-formed Greek Society for the promotion of education; but the department for day scholars is still continued. There are now various public schools English Church.-The English church in Athens, under the direction of the at Athens owed its foundation to Mr. Minister of Public Instruction. Of C. H. Bracebridge, of Atherstone, in these the most important is the UniWarwickshire, who resided much in versity (ПaveToThμLOV), founded in Greece. Subscriptions were raised in 1837, and which is regarded as the England, and unceasing efforts made central place of education for the whole until the edifice was completed. The Hellenic race. Though his design is structure was commenced in 1840, and as yet not fully completed, the archithe church was consecrated by the tect, Mr. Hansen (from Denmark), has Bishop of Gibraltar on Easter Sunday, seized the opportunity of giving an 1843. It is a neat building, beauti-illustration of the Polychromatic paintfully situated on the Boulevard, in the ing of the ancients, which he has accomvicinity of the temple of Jupiter Olym-plished with much taste, but which pius, and commanding a prospect of would have been far more valuable had the sea. As there is no endowment nor fund for the current expenses and repairs, the Trustees depend chiefly upon the liberality of occasional visitors, for whose accommodation the church was mainly erected, the number of residents in Athens, who are members of the Church of England, being very the funds at his disposal sufficed to carry it out farther by shading the columns, and painting rilievos in the corridor. King Otho, who gave his name to the University, presented to it a handsome portico of Pentelic marble; on each side of which an open corridor serves at once for a shady walk along |