the front of the building, and for access to the lecture-rooms, which are sufficiently commodious. There are also an anatomical theatre, a council-room, &c. In the centre a handsome double flight of stairs leads to the library, and also by a common central landing to a richly-decorated portal, which gives entrance to the Great Hall, and other apartments. The Library is a noble room running over the lecture-rooms described below, and divided into two principal sections by the readingroom. The collection already amounts to upwards of 120,000 volumes, of which 18,000 are Greek and Latin; the manuscripts amount to 600: the Numismatic Museum attached to the library, contains a rare collection of Grecian coins of cities and kings, one fine collection of coins of the Ionian islands, together with a series of Roman, Byzantine, middle age, and modern coins. The books are chiefly donations of various European governments and universities, and are the result of the late librarian's (Dr. Typaldo) great industry in pressing the claims of the University of Athens on the attention of men of learning throughout the world. No regular provision is made by the Greek Government for the purchase of books, and only a very limited sum is allowed annually for binding and other incidental expenses. The library, which contains busts of the most remarkable heroes of the Greek Revolutionamongst them of Mavrocordato, Byron, and Sir Richard Church-is open to all from 10 to 3; and the greatest politeness is shown to strangers by the librarian and his assistants. The University has been chiefly raised by subscriptions, the larger portion of which came from Greeks resident in foreign countries. The students now amount in the aggregate to 1205. There are 52 professors, who are all men of respectable, some of them of eminent, attainments. Lectures are delivered and degrees conferred in the four faculties of divinity, law, medicine, and arts. The University is governed by an academical council of its own professors, presided over by the rector or vice-chancellor (ПpúTavis), who is one of the professors taken in rotation. The whole is under the supervision of the Minister of Instruction. The general system pursued resembles that of the German and Scotch universities. Among Greeks of all classes there is an eager desire for instruction; and probably at least as many persons are at present under education at Athens as in any other European town of the same population. There are likewise the following educational establishments in Athens : Girls' Schools. The Arsakion, from which schoolmistresses are furnished for all parts of the kingdom. Two communal schools. There are also several private schools for girls. Boys' Schools. Two gymnasia. One ecclesiastical school (the Risarion). One normal school (for instruction of teachers). One school for orphans. The Polytechnic, or School of Arts, and several private Schools. Sir Charles E. Trevelyan, who visited Athens in 1869, writes : "A long day spent among the educational institutions of Athens made a deep impression upon me. In England we are discussing compulsory education. In Greece a comprehensive system of public instruction has been established in the last thirty years by the voluntary co-operation of all classes of people. Young men come to Athens from every part of Greece and Turkey, and serve for their keep as domestic servants, or clerks, on condition that they are permitted to attend the classes at the Gymnasium or University. The number of persons of mature age, including several young priests, who were standing among the boys, was those accents which in England we an unmistakable indication of the pre- are flogged for not knowing, and are vailing spirit. The most hopeful sign flogged again if we give practical of all is the Arsakion, at which nearly application to them. It was delightone thousand girls of every class re-ful to hear Greek treated as a living ceive an excellent education. It is language, and to gather new illustradivided into several departments, be- tions of its genius every day from ginning with an infant school. Accord-newspapers, debates, songs, and even ing to the genius of the nation, no from advertisements and street cries. distinction is allowed in education. Owing to the lamentable waste of time The children of rich and poor attend caused by our antiquated mode of the primary schools, but the children teaching Greek in England, the study of the rich are able to complete their itself is in danger; but our boys would education at the University or in the go further in a month than they now highest class of the Arsakion. Young do in a year, if, instead of plodding men who have to enter early upon over grammar, and grinding iambics, active life seldom go beyond the highest they learned Greek as they do French class of the Gymnasium of their dis- and Hindustani, in which they might trict. This, however, is no vulgar have the assistance of carefully-selected levelling feeling, for, although it suf- masters from the University of Athens, fices to secure equality before the law who would teach it in the spirit of a and in the enjoyment of educational modern language." and every other national advantage, including a perfectly open career in the public service, there is no country where families which have established a claim upon the national gratitude are more respected than they are in Greece. "The large private donations and bequests for the establishment of educational and other public institutions are so remarkable a feature of modern Greece that a full statement of them The Chamber of Deputies (Bovλ) is would leave no doubt as to the na-in course of construction. tional unity of this race in whatever part of the world they may happen to be sojourning. Even the passing stranger cannot fail to see signs of a prevailing spirit of munificence. A beautiful new Academy of Arts, Sciences, and Belles Lettres, and a Polytechnic School, including a new National Museum, are rising by the side of the University, both of them gifts of patriotic Greeks. "When the pupils in the male and female schools have been sufficiently matured in the language as it is actually spoken, the charming popular style of Xenophon is impressed upon them; and the patronesses of our ladies' colleges will be glad to hear that Thukydeedes (ovкudions), as they call him, is read by the most advanced pupils of the Arsakion. The pronunciation is entirely according to The Observatory, situated on a rising ground N. of the Pnyx, is, with its instruments, the offering to his country of the late Baron Sina, a wealthy Greek gentleman, long one of the principal bankers of Vienna. It is conducted by the very distinguished German astronomer, Dr. Julius Schmidt. The deputies for the mean time sit in a temporary building on the boulevard. The Palace, commenced in 1836, and terminated in 1843, is the most conspicuous building in Athens. It is situated on a gentle eminence, at the foot of Mount Lycabettus, and faces a square which is about of a mile from the centre of the city. It is a huge quadrangular building, of which the sides are 300 and 280 ft. long. There are two internal courts, separated from each other by two enormous and highlydecorated salons, used for ball-rooms, and on state occasions. The front of the palace has a portico of Pentelic marble; the frontispiece towards the front, and all the window-frames, cornices, angles, plinths, &c., as well as a colonnade on the S. side, are of the same material, but the massive walls are of broken limestone faced with cement. The royal apartments are decorated in the style of Munich, and one hall has a series of Greek portraits and historic pictures. There is a chapel for the king, and also a chapel for the queen. The palace is shown by tickets, which can be procured on application by a ralet-de-place, but it possesses few remarkable attractions. Attached to the palace is a garden, designed by Queen Amalie, very prettily laid out, and which is open to the public from 4 to 7 o'clock each afternoon. From some points within it beautiful views may be obtained of the Acropolis, the Temple of Jupiter, the Arch of Hadrian, Hymettus, Lycabettus, &c. It was on the square in front of the palace that the people and troops assembled on September, 1843, and remained for ten hours without committing the smallest act of violence or bloodshed. After much hesitation, King Otho yielded to the demands of the liberal leaders, and signed the Constitutional Charter; calling at the same time a national convention, and forming a new ministry. Full details of these events will be found in Mr. Finlay's History of the Greek Revolution,' which no English or American visitor to Greece should fail to peruse ere leaving the country. There are several public buildings besides those already described; the Barracks, the Civil Hospital, the Military Hospital, the Asylum for Blind Persons, which establishment, near the University, will repay a visit, the Theatre (where plays and operas are sometimes given by foreign performers), &c. Close to the University a very handsome building is being erected. at the cost of the present Baron Sina, of Pentelic marble, which is intended for the sittings of the National Academy. Two handsome marble edifices are likewise in the course of construction by the Patissia Road-the one for a Museum, the other for a Polytechnic School. The principal thoroughfares are Hermes Street and Eolus Street, which intersect each other at right angles nearly at the centre of the town. The former is parallel with the Acropolis, and divides Athens into two almost equal parts; the latter runs across the city from S. to N., beginning at the Temple of the Winds at the foot of the Acropolis. Bazaar or Market Street, so called from its containing the shops for the supply of the various articles required by the population, is about of a mile in length, branching off from Eolus Street. The principal commodities exposed for sale here are "caviar, onions, tobacco, black olives, figs, rice, pipes with amber mouth-picces, rich stuffs, silver-chased pistols, dirks, belts, and embroidered waistcoats." The houses in the principal streets are generally built in the modern German style. The minor streets of Athens are hardly deserving of the name, being merely narrow lanes, displaying a contempt for regularity. The population is, in outward appearance at least, more heterogeneous in its composition than that of any other town of its size. Greeks, in their splendid national costume, are jostled in the streets by islanders and Levantines, by foreign naval officers from the vessels of war in the Piræus, by French, Italian, and German artists, merchants, and travellers. European shops invite purchasers by the side of Eastern bazaars; coffee-houses, billiardrooms, and restaurants are open in all directions. The mixture of its population bears a striking analogy to the curious contrasts presented by the city itself. The same half-acre of ground sometimes contains two or three remaining columns of an ancient portico, a small Byzantine chapel of the middle ages, a dilapidated Venetian watchtower, a ruinous Turkish mosque, with its accompanying cypress and palm-trees, and a modern fashionable residence; thus distinctly exhibiting the different phases of the varied existence of this celebrated city. The most interesting relics of mediaval Athens are the few churches which have escaped the ravages of the Revolution. In the time of Justinian, Athens possessed 300 churches; the principal of those still remaining are unfinished appearance, and the outline of the roof, except the dome, is not seen. The result of this part is certainly unsatisfactory. It may be taken as a type, both as to style and dimensions, of several hundred buildings erected for the purposes of the Greek Church during the middle ages, before the Western style began to re-act upon the architecture of the East." This church has been given to Russia, and has been beautifully restored. 4. Kapnicaréa is a well-preserved and picturesque Byzantine church, in the middle of Hermes Street. 1. The old Cathedral-one of the most interesting specimens of the Byzantine style-is built of massive blocks of white marble, some of which were taken from pagan temples. A frieze running along the front is curiously carved, and a beautiful antique fragment, consisting of two metopes and two triglyphs, surmounts the arch over the door. The interior was covered with paintings, of which traces remain. Couchaud (Choix d'Eglises Byzantines en Grèce') assigns this church to the 6th centy. A.D. Too small to serve as the metropolitan church of the 5. The Church of the Angels (AowHellenic capital, this curious build-uaro), with some fresh fresco paintings, ing has been unused since the Re- is about 1 m. from Athens on the road volution. It contains the embalmed to Pentelicus. remains of the martyred Patriarch Gregorius, which are displayed on feast days.* The new Cathedral contains some handsome columns of Pentelicus marble, but is built rather after the Basilican than the Byzantine model. The service at the Cathedral on Sundays and festivals is at 8 A.M., lasting 2 hrs.; and at 4 P.M. (see GENERAL INTRODUCTION, M). 2. The Church of St. Theodore is the most complete and best preserved Byzantine church in Athens. It is built of stone, with courses of brick. "The largest and finest of the Athenian churches," says Mr. Fergusson, "is that of St. Nicodemus; but even its size is very insignificant, its extreme breadth being only 45 ft., and its length 62 ft.; and the dome, which is supported on 8 piers, 21 ft. in diameter. Still the arrangement of the building internally is is such that considerable architectural effect is obtained even with these small dimensions, and the points of support are so proportioned to the mass as to give it a very monumental character. The exterior is also pleasing, though the absence of a cornice gives it an A statue of the Patriarch, now being executed, will be erected in front of the University. Character of the Athenians.-The modern Athenians, like the ancient, have been noted among their own countrymen for their quickness, vivacity, and restlessness. Plunged for centuries in barbarism, and subject to the galling yoke of a foreign despotism, it is not surprising if they inherited many vices. But nationality and the light of civilization will, we trust, ere long render them worthy denizens of the soil, unde humanitas, doctrina, religio, fruges, jura, leges ortæ atque in omnes terras distribute putantur. The women of Athens are, in general, anything but remarkable for their beauty. Ladies of the higher ranks usually dress in the fashions of Western Europe. As a description of their manners under the Turkish régime at the beginning of the present century, we extract the following interesting account of the 'Maid of Athens' and her family, from the travels of the late artist, Mr. H. Williams, who lodged, as Lord Byron did, in the house of Theodora Macri: "Our servant, who had gone before to procure accommodation, met us at the gate, and conducted us to Theodora Macri, the Consulina's, where we at present live. This lady is the widow of the consul, and has three lovely daughters; the eldest celebrated for 6 her beauty, and said to be the 'Maid | clined, with their limbs gathered under of Athens' of Lord Byron. Their them on the divan, and without shoes. apartment is immediately opposite to Their employments are the needle, ours, and, if you could see them, as tambouring, and reading." The Maid we do now, through the gently waving of Athens' is now Mrs. Black (1871), aromatic plants before our window, and is reduced to very indigent ciryou would leave your heart in Athens. cumstances. Theresa (the Maid of Athens'), Ca- After this sketch of the actual continca, and Mariana are of middle dition of modern Athens, we shall stature. On the crown of the head of proceed to give a brief but systematic each is a red Albanian skull-cap, with account of its situation, history, antia blue tassel spread out and fastened quities, &c. A full illustration of this down like a star. Near the edge or part of our subject would, of course, bottom of the skull-cap is a handker- require volumes. Besides the admirchief of various colours bound roundable article 'Athena' in Dr. Smith's their temples. The youngest wears Dictionary of An. Geog.,' we refer the her hair loose, falling on her shoulders, traveller also to Leake's Topography the hair behind descending down the of Athens,' and 'Demi of Attica, to back nearly to the waist, and, as usual, Wordsworth's 'Athens and Attica,' to mixed with silk. The two eldest Dean Stanley's admirable Essay on generally have their hair bound, and Greek Topography,' and to Penrose's fastened under the handkerchief. Their 'Principles of Athenian Architecture.' upper robe is a pelisse edged with fur, These works will afford all necessary hanging loose down to the ankles; information. Travellers will find in below is a handkerchief of muslin the Library of the University the covering the bosom, and terminating means of consulting the best works at the waist, which is short; under respecting the History, the Archæothat a gown of striped silk or muslin, logy, the Botany, &c. &c., of Greece. with a gore round the swell of the An order from the Conservator of loins, falling in front in graceful negli- Antiquities, is, properly speaking, regence; white stockings and yellow quired for admission to the Acropolis, slippers complete their attire. The and is granted on application; but a two eldest have black, or dark, hair small fee to the veterans of the Revoand eyes; their visage oval, and com-lution who are quartered there will plexion somewhat pale, with teeth of dazzling whiteness. Their cheeks are rounded, and noses straight, rather inclined to aquiline. The youngest, Mariana, is very fair, her face not so finely-rounded, but has a gayer expression than her sisters, whose countenances, except when the conversation has something of mirth in it, may be 1. See the sunrise from the Acrosaid to be rather pensive. Their per-polis; visit the monuments there: sons are elegant, and their manners pleasing and ladylike, such as would be fascinating in any country. They possess very considerable powers of conversation, and their minds seem to be more instructed than those of the Greek women in general. With such attractions, it would indeed be remarkable if they did not meet with great attentions from the travellers who occasionally are resident in Athens. They sit in the eastern style, a little re generally serve the same purpose. If the weather be favourable, a moonlight visit should be paid to the Acropolis. The following plan for the disposal of 4 days in Athens and its vicinity may here be given: then the Areopagus, the Pnyx, the Temple of Theseus, the Monument of Philopappus, the Odeum of Herodes, the Dionysiac Theatre, the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, the Ilissus, the Fountain of Callirrhoë, the Panathenaic Stadium, the Arch of Hadrian, the Monument of Lysicrates, the Tower of the Winds, the Agora, the Stoa of Hadrian. These objects lie within a reasonable distance of each other; and there is little of modern or medieval interest |