ture built in the Cyclopean style, are to be seen. At the distance of 80 stadia from the city was the temple of Esculapius, and 40 stadia from the temple was a Peribolus, containing an Adytum sacred to Isis. The Tithoreans held a vernal and autumnal solemnity in honour of the goddess, where the victims were swathed in folds of linen in the Egyptian fashion. Other authorities, however, place Neon here. Neon is identified by some writers with a paleokastron about 1 hour from Velitza. From Velitza to Dadi is 2 hrs. The road turns N.W. by N., and crosses a torrent by a bridge, afterwards a foot of Parnassus, which projects into the plain, and then another stream. On a hill beyond the village are ancient walls of Cyclopean architecture; one of the mural turrets is still standing. These are remains of Amphiclea. Dadi is built on terraces in the form of a theatre, like Delphi. It faces the plain of the Kephissus towards N.N.E. To Budonitza from Dadi is 3 hrs. The road descends by an old military way, by an aqueduct and fountain, into the plain of Elatea, crosses the Kephissus, and soon after traverses the plain, and begins to ascend a part of Mount Eta. Several ruins are seen in this district; the road is very bad as it approaches the summit. From the summit the prospect is grand and beautiful; this was probably the eminence called Callidromos. On the right the N.W. promontory of Euboea projects towards the centre of the picture. To the left extend the summits and shores of Thessaly. From this spot we descend to Budonitza, where good accommodation may be had, and which is a favourable head-quarters for the exploration of Thermopyla. Below the Castle, which must always have been an important bulwark in guarding this passage, are the remains of ancient walls, resembling those at Dadi. To the Polyandrium of the Greeks who fell at Thermopyla is 1 hour's journey from Budonitza. The road is by the ancient military way, the route pursued by the Spartans under Leonidas, who defended the defile against Xerxes. The whole of the road is a descent, but lies high above the marshy plain. The hills are covered with trees and rare plants. | In a small plain into which the road turns suddenly, just as a steep and continued descent commences to the narrowest parts of the straits, is the Polyandrium, or sepulchral monument of the Greeks who fell at Thermopyla, an ancient tumulus with the remains of a square pedestal of square blocks of red marble breccia, so much decomposed on its surface as to resemble grey lime-stone. Thermopyla, 1 hr. The descent is very rapid, and the military way is frequently broken by torrents.hr. from the Polyandrium are the remains of the great northern wall mentioned by Herodotus. It has been traced from the Malian Gulf to the Gulf of Corinth, a distance of 24 leagues, forming a barrier to Hellas, excluding Etolia, Acarnania, and Thessaly. Beyond the road enters the bog, the only passage over which is by a narrow paved causeway. The Turkish barrier was placed here upon a narrow stone bridge. This deep and impassable morass extends towards the E. to the sea; to Mount Eta towards the W. The Thermæ, or hot springs, whence this defile takes its name, are at a short distance from this bridge. They issue from 2 mouths at the foot of the limestone precipices of Eta. They were sacred to Hercules, and are halfway between Budenitza and Thermopylæ. The temperature of the water is 111° of Fahrenheit at the mouth of the spring. It is impregnated with carbonic acid, lime, salt, and sulphur, and is very transparent. The ground round the springs yields a hollow sound like the solfatara at Naples. At the S. end of the pass, close to a pool from the hot springs, is a mound, probably that to which the Spartans | finally retreated, and on which they were killed: from this the localities of the pass are easily traced. The Anopea, or upper path, by which the Persians turned the flank of the Greeks, is on the mountains above. excursion may be made in one day, returning to Lamia; or one may reach by this route the shores of the Ambracian Gulf, or of the Gulf of Corinth. Casparisi is 10 hrs. from Neopatra, and Kravasaras is 1 day's journey further (Route 16). Neópatra is finely situated under Eta, and Zeitun, or Lamia, is 2 hrs. from looks out on Othrys, but it contains Thermopyla. The defile continues for very slight remains of antiquity. In some distance from the springs, and ancient times it was a town of the then the road turns off across the plain district of Phthiotis in Thessaly, and to Zeitun. The pavement in many derives its only interest from having places marks the route of Leonidas in | been the centre of the military operahis attack upon the Persian camp, tions carried on in B.C. 323 by the when he ventured out of the defile confederate Greeks against Antipater the night before his defeat. The Sper--the so-called Lamian war. The only chius is the chief river in the plain. remains of antiquity are some pieces The marshy air of Thermopyla is unof ancient wall in the masonry of the wholesome, but the scenery is some of Castle. Lamia has been compared to the best wooded and most beautiful in Athens, with its rambling old castle, or Greece, and the associations connected acropolis, above, and its Piræus at with the locality offer inducements to Stylidha, next the ancient Philora, on the traveller to visit the spot. The the shore below. There is a fine view road to Zeitun lies over the swampy from the Castle; and several good plain of Trachinia, intersected by the houses have been erected of late years Sperchius, the valley of which river in the town. The frontier of Turkey is 60 miles long, formed by the nearly is only 2 hrs. to the N., and there is parallel chains of Eta and Othrys, always a garrison of 200 or 300 both offshoots of Pindus. To the soldiers at Lamia to repress the robDeity of this river Achilles vowed his bers who infest the boundary line. hair, if he should live to revisit his It is 2 days' journey from Lamia to country. The tragedy of Sophocles, Larissa. the woes of Dejanira, add interest to this scenery. The funeral pyre of Hercules was on the peak of Eta, and, beneath, his Spartan progeny fought at Thermopyla. Here too the Amphictyonic council met at the gates of Greece. The pass, unconquered by man, has been conquered by nature, and is now no longer of much military importance. The defile of a few yards has been widened into a swampy plain from the alluvial deposit of the Sperchius and the retreat of the Malian Gulf. Lamia, or Zeitun, is seated on a hill to the N. of the Trachinian plain, and at a short distance from the Malian Gulf. An excursion may be made from Lamia to the next border town, which is called variously by its Turkish name of Patradjik, and its Greek names of Neópatra and Hypata. It is only 3 hrs. from Lamia; so the ROUTE 5. THERMOPYLE TO LEBADEA is 3 days' journey. The road lies along the plain, within sight of the sea, for about 2 hrs.; there is good riding when you arrive at the little village of Molo, where there is a decent khan, with mud walls. The nature of the ground traversed is such, that in some places a raised road has been constructed above the marshes. Several streams are crossed, running down from the heights of Eta, which have materially altered the features of the ground, and especially the coast, by forming long alluvial beds running into the sea. It would be difficult now to guard the pass against a force so much superior as the Persians were to the Greeks, though another noble stand was made in it during the revolution against the Turks. From Molo to Drachmáno, the site of ancient Elatea, is a ride of 8 hrs. During the first part, the road gradually leaves the sea, rising to the hills; it then ascends a long valley, and winds over a bleak hill. From the summit is a noble view of the extended plain of the Kephissus, backed by the dark heights of Parnassus, here seen rising, unbroken by intervening hills, directly out of the plain of Boeotia. The top is clothed in deep snow for the greater part of the year. The village of Drachmáno contains a khan, with some appearance of comfort. Hence there are two roads to Lebadea: the shorter and more direct passes through Charonea; the other, answering to the spewǹ odos of Pausanias, leads by the ruins of Hyampolis and Abæ to Scripu (Orchomenus). This latter road runs along at the foot of the hills which bound the plain of Boeotia on the 1., and being unfrequented, it requires some attention to trace it. The little village of Vogdáno occupies the site of Hyampolis; the ruins lie on a hill about m. N.E. of the village, where the range ends in the shape of a parallelogram, at the junction of 3 valleys. Pausanias mentions as a curious fact, that the city was possessed of one source of water only, to which the inhabitants were obliged to resort. This perhaps may be traced in a very copious spring, which supplies the village of Vogdáno: it is a little to the W., down the hill: there are many large blocks of squared stones | lying about it. In order to see the ruins of Abæ, we pass the village of Exarcho, which lies about 2 m. across the valley, on the 1. within sight. A little S. of it are 2 lines of polygonal wall, which unite on the N. side, the higher passing down the hill until it meets the lower. There are 3 or 4 gates, 2 of which were partly choked up with fallen stones; a 3rd, to which the path leads, and which is therefore the first seen, is very massive, in the Egyptian style, narrowing considerably towards the top, and of diminutive proportions; for a horse could with difficulty enter, and yet the soil cannot have been raised artificially, because the natural rock on which the town must have been built still projects in sharp points close to the gate. The stones of which it is composed are not generally large, though there is one nearly 14 ft. in length; they are beautifully joined, and afford a fine specimen of that kind of construction. On the top of the lower wall was a broad terrace of greensward, 12 or 14 paces wide, which still exists, little broken; this is artificial, as the natural hill is steep. On either side of this gate the wall projected, and on one side formed a square tower. On the summit is a flat space sufficient for a small temple: but Pausanias is not explicit enough to be a guide to the spot where the Oracle stood, which was of such high reputation in the time of Xerxes. The theatre is entirely gone, as at Hyampolis. The traveller should be cautioned against attempting to cross the marsh by a short road to Scripu, unless with a man of the country to guide him, otherwise he may be detained for hours. The regular road lies over the top of the hills on the rt. of the marsh, and descends directly into the village of Scripu, passing some fine walls of a fort which once crowned these heights. From Scripu to Lebadea the road is laid down in the preceding route. N.B.-One has also the choice of proceeding from Thermopyla to Chalkis, a picturesque journey of 3 days, Hrs. 11 Thermopyla to Budonitza, see Rte. 4. On leaving Budonitza for Architza, the road descends to the sea-shore, along which it continues for many hours. About half-way we pass the Monastery of Constantine. The wooded sides of Mount Cnemis rise on the rt.; on the 1. are the coast and mountains of Euboea, and the winding strait which separates them from the mainland. The myrtles grow with great luxuriance close to the edge of the sea. Besides its natural beauties, there is not much to interest the traveller on this route. Architza, 8 hrs., a considerable village. Hence to the village of Proskymno is 5 hrs., passing by the scala of Talanda, leaving that town itself about 2 m. to the rt. Talanda derives its name from the islet of Atalanta, which shelters its port. Remains of the ancient city of Opus are found at Kardenitza, a village 1 hr. S.E. The plain is left soon after leaving the scala, and the road passes over barren hills by Proskymno to Return to Oropos Delisi (the site of Delium), 7 m. from Oropos, a little 1. of the road. Dramisi Chalkis 1 3 form 2 sides of a platform. On this Grammaticos, 14 hr., is an Albanian platform are heaps of scattered frag-village. The route now lies over a ments of columns, mouldings, statues, mountain tract, near the tops of and reliefs, lying in wild confusion. Mount Varnava (Barnabas). Hence The outlines of two edifices standing is a magnificent view extending W. nearly from N. to S. are distinctly over the highest ridge of Parnes, with traceable, which are almost contiguous a glimpse of the Saronic Gulf. S. and nearly, though not quite, parallel are the high peaks of Brilessus. Beto each other. These two edifices neath, on the rt., is the strait of were temples; this terraced platform Euboea. The surface of the hills is was their réuevos, or sacred enclosure. here and there clothed with shrubs, The western of these temples, to judge but there is no large timber. from its diminutive size and ruder architecture, was of much earlier date than the other. It consisted of a simple cella, being constructed in antis, whereas the remains of its neighbour show that it possessed a double portico and a splendid peristyle. It had 12 columns on the flank, and six on each front."-Wordsworth. The largest of these temples has been supposed to be that of the Rhamnusian goddess Nemesis, and an inscription found here seems to confirm the idea. It records the dedication by Herodes Atticus of a statue of one of his adopted children to the goddess Nemesis. But both these temples were dedicated to Nemesis, and it is probable that the former temple was in ruins before the latter was erected; at what period it was destroyed, or by whom, is uncertain. The remains of Rhamnus are considerable. The W. gate is flanked by towers, and the S. wall, extending towards the sea, is well preserved, and about 20 ft. high. The part of the town bordering on the sea is rendered very strong by its position on the edge of perpendicular rocks. The beauty of its site and natural features is enhanced by the interest attached to the spot. Standing on this knoll, among walls and towers grey with age, with the sea behind you, and Attica before, you look up a woody glen, where, on a platform like a natural basement, the temples stood, of which the ruined walls, of shining marble, show so fairly to the eye through the veil of green shade that screens them. This was the birthplace of Antipho, the master of Thucydides. We descend by a route broken into frequent ravines by the torrents which flow from the higher summits. Kalamos, 3 hrs., is on the heights above the sea, in face of the deep gulf of Aliveri in Euboea. From the hill above the town is a fine view of the surrounding country. Leaving Kalamos we descend by a bad road to the Charadra, or torrent which comes from the summit of Parnes. There are many remains of antiquity here, and some inscriptions have fixed this spot as the site of the temple of Amphiaraus. Hence we descend through a gorge in the hills by a gradual slope. To I., in a lofty situation, is the village of Markopoulos, which must not be confounded with another village of the same name in the central district of Attica. We now enter a plain extending to the mouth of the Asopus; and, crossing two large torrents, arrive at Apostoli, 3 hrs. (Αγιοι Απόστολοι, the Holy Apostles), most probably the site of Delphinium, which was once the harbour of Oropos. It is now the scala or wharf of Oropos, and the port whence passengers embark for Euboea. Such was the case also with Delphinium. "The name itself of Apostoli was, I conceive, chosen from reference to this its maritime character. The vessels which left its harbour, the voyages which were here commenced, suggested, from the very terms in the language by which they were described, the present appropriate dedication of the place to the Holy Apostles; which the pious ingenuity, by which the |