rough stones. The two other cisterns | is called Ampelia. It was only in the seem also to have been churches, as most populous and opulent times that they bear the names of two saints, but Eretria could maintain a rivalship they are choked with rubbish. Farther with Chalkis. Under the successors of S. are the ruins of an aqueduct on Alexander, the peculiar advantages arches, which supplied Chalkis in the of Chalkis gave it the superiority Roman times. N. of the city, the which Strabo remarked, and an inplain and a cultivated slope extend crease of the same causes has ended along the foot of the mountains as far in making it the only town of magas Politika, 4 hrs., a village near the nitude in Euboea. But the consesea. A little beyond begin the great quence of the opposite fate of Chalkis cliffs, which are so conspicuous from and Eretria is, that at the former many parts of Boeotia, and which rise hardly any vestiges of antiquity reabruptly from the sea for many miles. main, whilst Eretria, by means of its S. of Chalkis, half-way between it and desolation, has preserved sufficient the tower before mentioned, is a round remnants to confirm the former imhill on the shore called Kalogheritza, | portance of the city. The Eretrians which commands a good view of the were carried into captivity by the Euripus and the Euboean frith as far Persians in B.C. 490, just before the N. as Lipso, and S. to a cape beyond battle of Marathon. The village of Kalamo. Immediately opposite to it Nea Eretria is on the site of the New are the bay of Vathy, or larger port of Eretria built a little to the S. of the Aulis, and the smaller port separated ancient city. from the first by a rocky peninsula. On the top of Kalogheritza are two ruined towers, perhaps windmills, and near them some Hellenic foundations, and an ancient column on the ground. Inland, the height falls to a plain, which connects that of Chalkis with the larger one of Vasiliko, which extends S. nearly to the ruins of Eretria. Towards the sea, the hill consists entirely of rock, in which many sepulchral crypts have been excavated, and stairs and niches have been cut. A copious stream issues from the foot of The principal places in Euboea are, the rock, and a paved road leads along besides Chalkis, Carystos, Kumi, and the shore to the plain of Vasiliko. Xerochóri. Carystos is at the S. and Possibly this hill may have been the Kumi at the E. extremity of the issite of Lelantum: the plain behind land. The traveller must be prepared it, being exactly interposed between for worse roads, poorer people, and those of Chalkis and Eretria, must consequently worse accommodation have been that plain which was an than in the more frequented parts of object of such deadly contention be- Greece. The great want of population tween the two states, that a pillar still prevents the more extensive cultivaexisted in the time of Strabo, in a tion of this most fertile Greek island. temple of Diana Amaryzia, 7 stadia Several Englishmen and other foreignfrom Eretria, on which was an in-ers have purchased estates here, and scription declaring that no missiles have done something towards improvshould be used in the war. The ing the agriculture and the condition plain of Lelantum is mentioned in the of the people. Hymn of Apollo as famed for its vineyards; and the plain behind Kalogheritza produces vines in such abundance, that a village in the midst of them Euboea is now, as formerly, valuable on account of the extraordinary fertility of its soil, and the quantity of corn with which, under favourable circumstances, it supplies the adjacent country. Twenty for one is mentioned as the common return of grain. The chief produce of the island, however, is wine. Vallonea, cotton, wool, pitch, and turpentine are exported, but in small quantities. The timber would be very valuable were there sufficient means of exporting it. ROUTE 10. CHALKIS TO OREOS (EUBA). Castellaes (2 or 3 m. from the shore), which consists of only a few poor houses, but affords shelter for the night. About a mile farther up the plain is another village, Psakna, more suitable for passing the night. From Castellaes the road enters the mountains, and after the first ascent crosses a valley, which runs far away to the rt., and resembles those of the Tyrol in its lengthiness, as well as in the magnificent pine-woods which clothe its sides. Here may be said to commence that beautiful and wild scenery for which the island is famous. It increases in beauty and grandeur as we ascend the higher ranges, where the path becomes exceedingly rough. After 34 hrs. the traveller arrives at the highest point, whence the road descends to The excursion from Chalkis to Carystos and back will occupy nearly a week, and the southern district of Euboea does not contain such fine scenery as the northern. An excursion Achmet-Aga, 2 hrs. more. There may be made across the island to is a fine view down the valley over Kumi on the eastern shore, passing the N. coast and Isle of Skyros. The over the lofty ridge of Delphi (see next trees on the N. side of the range of Rte.). But the northern part of Eu- mountains exhibit a more luxuriant bea should by no means be omitted. growth; the pines are succeeded by The rte. to Chalkis may be advan-oaks and ilexes; under which are tageously continued through the found, in more than usual beauty, northern half of Euboea, and thence those flowering shrubs which the soil across the straits to Thermopyla. of Greece so plentifully produces; This rte. is so little frequented, that few persons are aware of the magnificence of its scenery. The extreme richness of the soil, left as it has been in great part uncultivated for centuries, has produced trees of splendid growth, and in great variety, as well as luxuriant shrubs and underwood. In many parts the scenery resembles the most beautiful parks. among them the cystus, arbutus, and oleander. Towards the bottom of the valley, down which the road is carried, the woods become more beautiful; and before opening on the plain of Achmet-Aga there are magnificent plane-trees by the side of a clear stream: the woods abound with game. The plain, with its wooded heights, as well as the romantic mountains on On quitting Chalkis the road lies the 1., are the property of our countryalong the sea-coast, then crosses an man Mr. Noel, who has built a good extensive plain to the foot of the house above the village, near which mountains. On the rt. is seen the is a khan, where travellers may pass lofty peak of Delphi, the highest in the night (being 9 hrs. from Chalkis). the island, which will have already The view in front of the house is attracted attention long before cross-splendid-a natural park, surrounded ing the Euripus. Inaccessible-looking with rich foliage, and bounded by cliffs rise on this side of it, and nearer are well-wooded hills which sink gradually into the plain. Corn crops come nearly down to the sea. A ride of 3 hrs. brings the traveller to lofty mountains, clothed with pinewoods. At the back the valley runs down to the sea, a few hrs. distant. This one spot would be quite sufficient to repay the traveller for the toils of the journey; but the fine natural Mandianika, scenery continues with the road. It and valleys terminating in a seacoast is 4 hrs. hence to plain. Beyond are the straits famous as the scene of the naval engagements of Artemisium, between the Greeks and Persians (Herod. b. viii.); across which is Thessaly. Mount Othrys and other lofty summits appear on the 1., and northward rises Pelion, with Ossa immediately behind it, and the snowy summit of Olympus in the distance: in clear weather Mount Athos is visible. The coast for some miles inland is level; the land then rises step by step to this point, a distance of more than 5 hrs. The road now descends through Xerochori, the ancient Histiæa, and the principal place in the N. of the island, to over a continued succession of little hills and valleys with partial cultivation, and through woods of the same character; but two ranges of mountains, one on either hand, shut out any extensive view. Mandianikà is a wretched village, built of mud and faggots. Far better accommodation will be found in St. Anne (Ayia Avva), also about 4 hrs. N. of Achmet-Aga. Proceeding along the vale, the traveller must beware of a path which leads up the mountains on the 1., and would take him down to the coast. Should he take it he would enjoy from the summit a fine view of both the Ægean and the Euripus, and the snowy peaks of Parnassus, and might continue his route along the coast northwards, for there is a coast road from Chalkis. One must, however, reckon on losing an hour or two during the day in finding the road, which is occasionally ploughed up, and at best is only a mule-track; the population is so scanty, that one or two hrs. frequently pass without the possibility of making inquiries. Neither Mandianika nor Kurkulus, which is of an hr. beyond Mandianikà, affords any accommodation but a poor cottage, where men and cattle are huddled together, and even then a stranger stands a good chance of procuring nothing for man or beast-even eggs, milk, or bread. Money makes little impression, and the traveller must search for himself. Proceeding in a N. direction the path mounts a ridge immediately beyond Mandianikà, and continues over hill and dale through the same character of country as before for 5 hrs., till we reach the village of Kokinimilia, near the summit of a chain of mountains, which, running N.W. and S.E., unite the two chains before noticed as bounding the road on either side. The view from this spot is equalled by few in Greece for magnificence. Below lie wooded hills Oreos, a small port on the N.W. coast, distant 54 hrs. from the summit, where a boat may generally be found to cross to the mainland. On descending, the country opens out still more rich and beautiful: the forest trees are finer, and cultivation is more general. The judas-tree in the month of May is seen covered with red blossom, the pink and white cystus are then in flower, and the yellow broom and white arbutus give a fresh interest to the landscape. Vines and figs grow wild, and the mulberry ripens with little care. There is very little pasture land, though water is much more abundant here than in Greece. At Kokinimilia travellers used to diverge from the road to find their way to Kastaniotissa, where an English gentleman, Mr. Leeves, resided during the summer. The spot occupied by his house and the road to it are so beautiful, that this route to Oreos was recommended in preference to that through Xerochori, which is a poor town, and possesses no inducement to tempt the traveller. But in August, 1854, Mr. and Mrs. Leeves were murdered by a servant under circumstances of great atrocity; and there is no longer the same temptation to their countrymen to diverge from the more direct route. The inhabitants are numerous in this part of the island, owing perhaps to the establishment of foreigners on property bought of the Turks, who | above which rise the strongly-defined were compelled at the peace to give up the island within a certain number of years, thus offering a good opportunity to purchase land. The traveller who embarks at Oreos for the mainland had better land at Stylidha, the port of Lamia, or Zeitun (Rte. 4). The scenery of the Strait is delightful. Those fond of boating should sail from Oreos round the Pagasaan Gulf (Gulf of Volo). ROUTE 11. CHALKIS TO KUMI (EUBŒEA). A picturesque excursion may be made round the southern end of Mount Delphi, or more properly Dirphe, to Kumi on the E. shore of the island, returning to Chalkis across the ridge of Dirphe. Chalkis to mountains about Carystos. The bay of Alivéri runs deep inland. Hence the road turns N.E. through fine valleys and gorges between the ridge of Dirphe and the hills which line the E. coast of the island. At length it comes out on the shore, and mounts a steep glen to Kumi, 6 hrs., a large village, nearly retaining the ancient name of Cuma. The population is chiefly seafaring. From Kumi the road leads W. over hill and dale clothed with luxuriant vegetation, till it reaches the summit of the ridge of Dirphe, whence is a splendid view over Euboea, with the winding Euripus and the opposite mountains and coast of the mainland. Hence the path descends to the Khan of Lotosi, 7 hrs., in a richlywooded valley. The highest peak of Dirphe appears at intervals, and is 7266 ft. above the sea. The planes and oleanders are especially luxuriant; and there is much fine scenery between Lotosi and Chalkis, 6 hrs. (Rte. 9). Eretria Alivéri Kumi Khan of Lotosi Hrs. 4 4 6 7 6 On leaving Chalkis the road keeps at first close to the sea-shore, then strikes across a valley, and, mounting a long ridge, descends to the plain of Eretria. An insulated hill marks the ROUTE 12. KOKHINO. site of the ancient Acropolis. The CHALKIS TO THEBES. BY LUKISI AND view of the opposite coast of Oropus and Attica is very interesting. Accommodation can be procured in the modern village of Eretria, 4 hrs. from Chalkis. Hence the road chiefly follows the shore as far as Alivéri, 4 hrs. The chain of Dirphe here falls into the plain, which stretches towards the S. of the island, bordered by low bare hills, Ruins of Salganeus After leaving Chalkis, and crossing the bridge over the Euripus, the road follows the shore for hr., and then, leaving the road to Thebes on the 1., crosses the plain in a direction parallel to the foot of the mountains, with the sea on the rt.; in an hr. we reach a ruined ch., containing the fragment of a large column, which may have belonged to the temple of Ceres Mycalessia. There are here a series of wells, narrow and lined with stone, but not of great antiquity.m. to r. is Chalia, not far from the sea-an ancient site. Salganeus, 1 hr. The remains of this town are just in the angle where the plain terminates at the foot of Mount Ktypa, the ancient Messapium, on the side of a small fort under the highest summit of the mountain. The citadel occupied a height rising from the shore, having a flat summit sloping S.E. to the sea. The sides of the hill have been partly shaped by art, and faced with stone. The facing appears on all sides excepting on the N., and some remains of walls are visible on the crest of the summit. The road ascends the cliffs which border the shore, and passes opposite to the S. extremity of the islet of Gaidharonisi in the Euripus. On the rocks are traces of chariot-wheels, and, descending to the beach, we find the foundations of a thick wall. These are vestiges of the ancient road from Chalkis to Anthedon. We soon after enter on a slope, covered with lentisk, myrtle, and oleander. At the head of the slope, just under the steep summit of the mountain, is Lukisi, 14 hr.-Before reaching this small village, an ancient foundation, cut in the rock, crosses the road, 1. of which is a ch., in which are several ancient squared stones; other remains of an old wall occur shortly after. 1 m. distant from Lukisi, at the foot of the slope on the sea-shore, are considerable remains of the ancient Anthedon; they consist of traces of the town-hall, an acropolis, situated on a small height terminating towards the sea in cliffs, on the face of which large pieces of the wall are found; some cisterns between the town-wall and the acropolis, part of the platform of a public building, 34 yds. long, founded in the sea; in the midst of the fort, which was defended by a mole connected with the N. wall of the town, foundations of a similar work of smaller dimensions are to be seen, by the extremity of a small sandy island near the end of the great mole. The vestiges of antiquity, at the village of Lukisi, may be those of the Isus of Homer. Opposite to Anthedon, in Euboea, is the modern village of Politika. The road proceeds past the foundations of Anthedon, and across a torrent which descends from Mount Ktypa, and ascends to the summit of the ridge which connects Mount Ptoum with the lower heights of Messapium above Lukisi. This was the road from Anthedon to Thebes. From the summit of the ridge we look down on the lake Paralimni, and then descend opposite to the N.E. end of this lake, and, leaving it to the rt., follow a rugged path along the last falls of the Messapian ridges. After passing a portion of the ancient road we emerge into a plain separated only by a small rise from the plain of Thebes, and in an hr. find traces of an Hellenic town. The road then ascends a rugged ridge, whence there is a splendid view; in front are the hills above Kardhitza and part of the Copaic lake; over which appear Helicon and Parnassus. The road now passes by a modern fountain constructed of ancient stones, where formerly stood the monastery of Palea, by which name the adjacent summit of Mount Ptoum is still known. Kokhino, 5 hrs., is a village of some 50 houses, which, as usual in this part of Greece, consist of one apartment, serving for a stable and lodging. The people are Albanian. The basin of the Copaic lake is surrounded by mountains, and, like several valleys in Arcadia, its waters find outlets by subterranean channels |