ing on the left, is the village of Katuna, pleasantly situated on a hill; right of Katuna is the bold, round mountain, called Bumisto: and in front of us is a lofty ridge, with a peaked summit, called Varnaka. Near the head of the bay of Lutraki we leave on the right the road to Macrinoros and Arta, and, ascending a height, look down on the Ambracian Gulf. The road soon after enters a forest; at the thickest part of it the village of Nisi ishr. to the right. The road to Leucadia or Santa Maura, turns off to the left. On the summit of a ridge terminating in Cape Geladha, is the castle of Vonitza, with the little town below, and beyond it the lake of Vulkavia (the ancient Myrtantium) opens on the view. Vonitza, 7 hrs., the last town in the kingdom of Greece; formerly a Venetian fortress. It is the chief town of Acarnania, and residence of the eparch and the other provincial authorities. At the entrance of the town are the remains of a square redoubt and detached ravelin, the works of the French, who occupied the place for a few months after the fall of Venice in 1797. They were expelled by Ali Pasha, who also drove them from Butrinto and Prevesa. Vonitza was divided by the Venetians into three separate quarters, viz., Recinto to the S.W., so called from being enclosed between two walls, which descend to the shallow harbour from the summit of a conical hill, crowned with a ruinous and ill-constructed Venetian castle; Borgo, a suburb on the W. side of the hill; and Boccale divided from Borgo by gardens, and stretching E. along the shore of the bay. The greater part of the houses are wretched mud cottages. In Recinto are the ruins of a large church. On the N. point of the mouth of the harbour is a small suburb of a few houses, with a monastery prettily situated. The monastery and suburb are called Mytari, but are now ruinous. The Bay of Vonitza is a large semicircular basin, opening into the gulf between the E. side of a peninsula and Cape Geladha. It is indented with several fine harbours, and has considerable depth, quite to the shore of Vonitza. The castle commands a fine view of the beautiful Ambracian Gulf, surrounded with mountains. The road from Vonitza to Prevesa follows first the shore of the gulf, and then ascends a summit commanding a fine view of the Acarnanian peninsula, with N. the island of Paxo, and the coast from Parga to Salaghora, and all the N. side of the Gulf of Arta. At the S.E. end of the lagoon of Vulkaria, on a height among thick woods, is the Paleo-kastron of Kekhropula, so called from an uninhabited village, 1. of which are seen the islets of Meganisi, Atoko, and a part of Kalamos. Descending, we pass a road to Aghios Petros, a harbour on the shore of the Gulf of Prevesa, where are some vestiges of an Hellenic polis, probably Anactorium, and reach the banks of a beautiful little fresh-water lake called Linovrokhi. The road now lies over an uncultivated country, and passes Punta, where are some Roman remains, probably of some of the buildings of Actium, established by Augustus. This tongue of land is reserved by treaty to Turkey, which therefore commands the entrance to the Ambracian Gulf. Prevesa is 2 hrs. from Vonitza. A boat can be procured at Punta to cross the narrow strait to the town. The principal road from western Greece into Epirus, leads from Kravasaras (see preceding Rte.) by the pass of Macrinoros, on the E. side of the Ambracian Gulf, to Arta. From Kravasaras it is 2 hours, chiefly over a small plain, to requires 3 hrs., lying along the steep slopes of the mountain, which is covered with a forest of oaks nearly down to the waters of the Ambracian Gulf. Animo, 4 hours, is a village near the N. extremity of the pass, on the frontier between Greece and Turkey. Here is a small Turkish fort. From Animo it is nearly 2 hours to Komboti, a village of 150 houses; whence it is 2 hours to Arta, the ancient Ambracia. ROUTE 18. MESOLONGHI TO KALYDON (KURT-AGA). 1 hour. Neochori, near which village are the remains of Argos Ampholochicum, a colony from Argos in the Peloponnese, settled among the non-Hellenic tribe of the Amphilochiots. The neighbouring country was the scene of the interesting military operations described in the 3rd Book of Thucidides as having occurred in B.C. 426, between the Dorian Ambrakiots and the Athenians under the general Demothenes (who afterwards fell in Sicily), allied with the Acarnanians.* The Ambra- tion of the lagoon of Mesolonghi, are Midway opposite to the E. terminakiots were routed in the battle of Olpa, some remains of ancient buildings, reand their re-inforcements were cut off sembling Roman baths. Two chambers in the defile beyond, now called the subsist which have curved and arched pass of Macrinoros. Leake has identi- niches in the walls and on the outside fied the places mentioned by Thucy-several holes, partly filled with indudides in his account of this campaign. rated sediment, formed by a longArgos, as we have seen, was at Neo- continued course of water. These rechori; Crane (i. e. Wells) corresponds mains probably mark the site of the to the lagoon of Armyso, on the coast ancient Halikyrna. of the gulf, 3 m. S.W. of Argos; Olpæ to Arápi, a hamlet, also on the shore, 3 m. N.W. of Argos; at both of which places there are Hellenic remains. Metropolis, and the Greater Idomene were places near the S. extremity and the Lesser Idomene was a fort (of which there are still traces) at the N. extremity of the pass of Macrinoros, which begins about 1 hr. beyond Neochori. The road through the pass Vide Grote's Hist. of Greece,' Part II. chap. li. by the peasants from the name of a At Kurt-Aga (a spot still so called former Turkish proprietor), the first object that arrests the eye is a wall of regular masonry, formed of quadrangular blocks, 3 feet in their greatest length, standing on the side of a projecting hill. This wall formed part of an oblong building, inclosing all the summit of the height, which, being much steeper towards the torrent than on the other sides, required the sup port of a strong buttress or projection from the quadrangle; and this is the part of the building which is now so conspicuous. This ruin is separate from the enclosure of the city, and is probably the remains of the peribolus of a temple; and there is reason to believe it may have been that of Artemis Laphria, which, according to Strabo, was not within, but near the town of Kalydon. The remains of the town are traceable in their whole circuit of 2 miles. On the W. side they descend the left bank of the torrent, till, after receiving the waters from the slopes of the city itself, through an opening made in the wall to admit their passage, the torrent changes its course. E. the walls ascended the crest of a narrow ridge to the Acropolis; the N. side crossed a ridge, which connects the heights occupied by the city, with Mount Zygos. In the middle of this side, on the highest point, stood the Acropolis, which was well protected by towers. At the foot of the ridge, whose crest is crowned with the E. walls, flows a small branch of the Evenus. It will take about 2 hrs, to row in a canoe (monoxylon) from Mesolonghi to Anatolico. The island of Anatolico is A little to the N. is the point in the 3 m. distant from the N. extremity of river Evenus at which the centaur the Lagoon, at the foot of the ridge Nessus bore Dejanira from the western of Stamna, and a mile distant from to the eastern shore. The stream is the land on either side, E. and W. vulgarly called Phidaro, probably The island is so small, as to be enfrom its winding course; the word tirely covered with the town, which seems to be formed from the modern contains about 400 houses. Being, Greek terms Phidi and Phidari (pidi, like Mesolonghi, supported chiefly by i. e. òpídiov), a snake, and may pro- the profits of its ships and maritime perly be rendered serpentine. But commerce, it has suffered by the ReLeake has another derivation (Nor-volution, which has diverted the trade thern Greece, vol. iii. p. 533, seq.). These remains of Kalydon mark the site of what was in the heroic age the most important city of Ætolia, though it had sunk into insignificance in the time of Strabo. of Greece into other channels. The territory extends 3 or 4 miles on either shore of the lagoon, and produces corn for two months' consumption, rather more than sufficient wine for the place, with a considerable quantity of oil. The distance of Anatolico from Guria is 2 hrs. by the horse-track, but in a direct line much less. From Mesolonghi, in a direct line, it is about 7 m. With a monoxylon, it is double the distance, on account of a long low cape which separates the lagoon of Mesolonghi from that of Anatolico; from the E. shore of the lagoon it is a ride of about 14 hr. to Mesolonghi. Neokhori, 1 hr. A village on the left bank of the Achelous, containing 180 families; opposite to it, on the other side, is Katokhi, on a similar height at the extremity of the hills which begin about Katuna, and end near Katokhi. Guria, 1 hr. Stamna, 2 hrs.-The road from Neokhori follows the bank of the Achelous, and reaching Guria in 1 hr., ascends thence by a rugged path the ridge of Stamna, passing the hamlet of St. Elias, at the foot of a peaked height, which is remarkable in all directions. Stamna, once a considerable town, contains now only 80 families, and not one-fifth part of its lands are cultivated, though it has suffered less than many other places in Acarnania, from not being in the line of the most frequented communications. Its decline dates from the Russian invasion of 1770, when Orloff sent hither a Cephalonian to originate a rebellion in support of Catherine's war with Turkey. Flags were made, under which men, women, and children assembled to establish their liberty and independence; very soon, however, some Albanians marched against them from Vrakhori, slaughtered the men, made slaves of the women and children, and pillaged the houses. Return to Neokhori, and cross the Achelous, at the Skaloma, to Katokhi, containing 200 families, and once undoubtedly a place of greater importance, having a large ancient church of St. Pandeleimon, said to have been built by Theodora, wife of Justinian. On a rock in the middle of the village stands a tower, with very thick walls, apparently of the same age as the church. A sepulchral stone, forming part of the altar in the church, is inscribed with the name of Phormion, in characters of the best Hellenic times. Trikhardó, or Trikhardo-kastro, 4 m. W. of Katokhi, and about 2 hrs. from the port of Petala, is the vulgar name for the ruins of Eniada. The ancient city occupied an extensive in sulated hill, not high, now covered with a forest of Valonea oaks, and half surrounded on the N. and E., which are the highest sides, by the great marsh of Lezini or Katokhi. The lowest point of the hill was excluded from the walls. The entire circuit of the fortifications still exists. At the highest or N.E. point of the enclosure is a tower still 30 ft. high, with loopholes for defence, like those in the walls and towers of Messene. The adjoining wall has scarcely a single rectangular stone in it; as Leake remarks, "most of the polygons are equal to cubes of 2 and 3 feet, and the beauty and accuracy of the workmanship are admirable." Proceeding W., we arrive at a small gate in a retired angle of the walls leading to a large cavern in the rocks, full of water very clear and deep, but which, as the sides of the cavern are perpendicular, is inaccessible. It is called one of the ancient cisterns of the city, but seems entirely the work of nature. The view of the surrounding country from the summit of the tower abovementioned, as also from the wooded banks of the cistern, is very extensive and striking. It is obvious that the sea formerly flowed over a great portion of the existing plain and marshes, which have been coated by the alluvial deposits of the Achelous. The river winds greatly in the latter part of its course. About two-thirds of the distance between Trikardhó and Kalkitza -a steep and woody mountain-is a rocky insulated hill, like that of Trikardhó, and also covered with trees and bushes. On another insulated hill, N.E. of the marsh, stands the monastery of Lezini, which gives its name to the reedy lake. Beyond the cistern above-mentioned, following the walls of Eniada for a short distance, we arrive at what is called traditionally the port; which, though at present only a marshy pool, was evidently once filled by an inlet, or creek, reaching from the open sea at the island of Petala, but which now extends only to within about 2 m. of the ruins. Anchors, and other parts of ancient galleys, have been found at this spot. The banks are rocky and steep, overgrown with trees, and festooned with creeping plants. The most remarkable part of the ruins of Eniada is the gate which led from the port to the city, terminating in an oblique passage through the wall, 8 ft. long. Though the passage is ruined, and the gate half-buried, the elevation of the upper part of the latter is preserved, and is one of the most curious remains of antiquity in Greece, as it shows that the Greeks combined the use of the arch with that of polygonal masonry: 5 feet above the arch a quadrangular window formed by three stones, crowns the gate. The remains of a theatre may be traced near the centre of the ancient city, and command a view towards Kurtzolari and the mouth of the Achelous. The ruins and woods of Trikardhó are singularly beautiful, while the picturesque dresses of the Greek peasantry form an appropriate accompaniment to the scenery. The coins of Eniada, bearing the head of the tauriform Achelous and the legend OINIAAAN in the Doric dialect, have been found in great numbers in the surrounding parts of Greece. Twenty-three years prior to the Peloponnesian war (Eniada resisted Pericles, who attempted to reduce it with an Athenian squadron. It was the only city in Acarnania adverse to the Athenian alliance, and did not join that alliance till the eighth year of the war, when it was compelled to do so by the other Acarnanians, assisted by the strong fleet of Demosthenes at Naupactus. In B.C. 211, Eniadae was taken by the Romans under M. Valerius Lævinus, and given by them to the Etolians, but was restored to the Acarnanians twenty-two years later. On the whole, it is one of the most interesting places in Greece. Descending from Trikardhó, we proceed to a mill 2 m. distant from the ruins, and thence down a creek to the island of with a luxuriant growth of herbage and aromatic shrubs. On the W. side a few fields are cultivated by the Ithacans and Cephalonians. Petala, like all the other islands, great and small, lying off the W. coast of Greece, belonged to the Septinsular State. There is good partridge-shooting here in autumn; and on each side of the island is a secure little port, where a yacht may lie while its owner and his friends are enjoying the excellent woodcock and wild-fowl shooting which is to be had in winter near the mouth of the Achelous. A fishing-boat may generally be found at Petala; and proceeding thence towards the Skala, or Skaloma, of Tragamesti, we sail between the Echinades and the Acarnanian coast, in which about midway are the harbours of Platia and Pandeleimon. They are beautiful bays, with narrow entrances. On the summit of a hill rising from the latter harbour are the ruins of an Hellenic town, perhaps Astacus, which was the chief maritime city and harbour N. of Eniada. Fallow-deer and roe abound in the woods near Pandeleimon bay. Red-deer are found on the opposite promontory N. of the bay. Guides and beaters should be procured from the village of Dragomestre. The Bay of Tragamesti is 5 or 6 m. long and 1 broad, sheltered on the S.W. by the Echinades; on the N.W. shore is the mountain Velatzi. There is a rough mole on the beach at the extremity of the bay, where the modern village stands. It is a thriving place, having the official name of Astacus, but more generally called Dragomestre, or Tragamesti. The upper village of the same name is at some distance from the sea. Now that piracy no longer exists, the inhabitants of Greek towns and villages are generally removing to the coast from the lofty inland positions, which formerly were alone safe. It is 9 hrs. by land from Dragomestre to Mesolonghi, and 14 hrs. to Vonitza, by the most direct routes. |