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Vasilopulo, 6 m., or 2 hrs. A vil- | lage occupying a lofty situation near the N. extremity of the valley. The villages of old Tragamesti and Lutziana are also situated on this side of the valley. Of these three, Tragamesti, or Dragomestre, is the largest. The valley is bounded by the mountains which are a N. continuation of Kalkitza.

Between Lutziana and Tragamesti, below a monastery of St. Elias, a root of Mount Velutzi projecting into the valley, was the site of the town which possessed the district of Tragamesti in Hellenic times, and at a subsequent period. The remains consist of walls of mortar and rubble, erected upon regular Hellenic masonry. There are also the ruins of a large church, and, at the angle of the fortress, a square tower coeval with the church. This Hellenic town was probably Crithote; but according to Kiepert and others, Astacus, which Leake places, as we have said, more to the S.

The road from Vasilopulo crosses the hills and descends into a valley, and, passing through Makhera, once a considerable village, follows the slope of the hills to the

Paleo-kastron of Porta, 4 hrs. The monastery, called the Panaghia of Porta, is founded on a part of the walls of an ancient city (probably Phytia), encircling the summit of an irregular height rising from the middle of the vale, which is enclosed by Mount Bumisto, the ridge of Katuna, and the mountain of Chrysoritzi. The walls are chiefly polygonal, except on the lower side towards Makhala, where they are best preserved, and where a tower of regular masonry subsists to half its original height. A little above it is an ancient reservoir, which still contains the waters of a spring which here takes its rise. Within the Hellenic enclosure are many foundations of ancient buildings and traces of terraces, now separated from each other by luxuriant bay-trees. The monastery is large, but contains no Hellenic remains. The hill of Porta is the limit of the valley of Aetos, so called

from a deserted village at the foot of Mount Bumisto, opposite to which, in the direction of Porta, is a pointed hill crowned with a castle of the lower ages, also named Aetós.

Leaving Porta, we proceed in the direction of Katuna, through the valley, which, except at Aetos and Katuna, is uncultivated. In 2 hrs. we find ourselves immediately below St. Nicholas of Aetos, a monastery on the lower heights of the ridge attached to the castle peak.

Katuna, 24 hrs., a large village.

From Katuna we proceed to Lutraki and Balimbey, near the S. shore of the beautiful Ambracian Gulf. From thence to St. Basil, a village on the N. slope of the mountain of Pergandi, is 1 hr. Here there is nothing except a church of St. Basil, and a cluster of cottages.

Vonitza is 3 hrs. from St. Basil. The road descends the mountain, crosses the elevated plain, re-enters the forests, and approaches Vonitza a little above some ancient foundations on the hill of St. Elias. The lower road from Katuna to Vonitza has been described above (Rte. 16).

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Aetos bring the traveller to a gorge | irrigation of the plain. Thus Hellenic construction and Cyclopean labours were here devoted to a useful work, and remain at the present day an instructive lesson.

near the village of Lavitza, through which a torrent forces its way into the plain of Mytika, separated from the island of Kalamos by a very narrow strait of the sea. On the summit of the pass is a small and beautiful Hellenic tower. Descending the mountain, we cross the plain of Mytika to the Paleo-kastron of Kandili, the name given to the ruins of Alyzea, situated above the village of Kandili, about 1 hr. from the sea. The walls are in the best Hellenic style, and probably, of all the cities in this part of Acarnania, Alyzea would best repay excavation and research.

Near the apex of the plain of Mytika -a triangular level, of which the shore is the base, and two chains of lofty and abrupt mountains form the sides -a stream has forced a magnificent passage through the limestone, and, restrained there by an embankment, has accumulated its waters for the

From Kandili a rugged path leads by Mytika and Zaverdha to Santa Maura, a distance of about 5 hrs.

In the year B.C. 374 the bay of Alyzea was the scene of a naval victory, gained by 60 Athenian ships, commanded by Timotheus, over the Lacedemonians, under Nicolochus: on which occasion the historian relates that Timotheus retired after the battle to Alyzea, where he erected a trophy; that the Lacedemonians, having been reinforced by six ships from Ambracia, again offered him battle, and that when Timotheus refused to come forth, Nicolochus erected a trophy on one of the neighbouring islands, probably that of Kalamos, anciently Carnus, and which is now a dependency of Ithaca (Section I.).

PART II. THE PELOPONNESUS.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

THE isthmus of Corinth is so narrow in comparison with the size of the peninsula, that the ancient Greeks called the latter the Island of Pelops-or Peloponnesus-after the mythical hero of that name. In fact, it has all the advantages, without the drawbacks, of an insular situation. The mediæval name of Morea is derived by some writers from the mulberry-trees (μopéa) grown there, or from its resemblance in form to a mulberry-leaf. But, as Strabo and Piny observed, the Peloponnesus more nearly resembles in shape the leaf of a plane-tree or vine; and Morea was probably derived from the Slavonic word Moré, the sea, as being, par excellence, the maritime province of Greece. The name dates from the period when the peninsula was overcome by Slavonians, who have left many traces in the modern names of towns and mountains.

Arcadia is the Switzerland of the Peloponnesus. This Alpine district is encircled by an irregular wall of mountains, from which lateral branches extend in various directions to the sea. The highest peak is that of Taygetus, 7905 ft. above the sea; the next Kyllene, 7788 ft. Erymanthus rises to the height of 7297 ft., and the Aroanian mountains (Khelmós) to that of 7726 ft. The other principal summits, are those of Mount Panachaicum above Patras (6322 ft.), Mount Lykæus (4659 ft.), Mount Artemisium (5814 ft.), &c. The chief river-the Achelous of the Peloponnese-is the Alpheus.

The Peloponnesus contains five of the thirteen departments, or nomes, into which the kingdom of Greece is divided; and these divisions correspond with tolerable accuracy to the ancient districts whose names they bear.

Though the surface of the Peninsula is only about one-third more extensive than that of Yorkshire, there is probably no part of the world which will more fully repay a tour of a month or six weeks. The scenery, both of the great historic sites and of the more obscure retreats of the Peloponnese, is of the rarest grandeur and beauty, and stamps itself on the memory with distinctness. Other sights and length of time do not confuse or alter its impressions. The cloud-capped Acropolis of Corinth, the primæval remains of Tiryns and Mykenæ, the hollow, stadium-like valley of Sparta, the massive walls and towers of Messene, with the altar-like hill of Ithome above, the mountainshrine of Bassæ, the beautiful vale of Olympia, the Convent of the Great Cavern (Megaspeleon), the vast caldron-glen and cliff of the Styx, the secluded lake of Pheneus, with the curious phenomena of the rise and fall of its waters, all these are among the choice places of the earth which, once seen, live in perpetual freshness in the imagination.

The following routes will point out to the traveller the most striking features of the Peloponnese. Still there is doubtless room for discovery, at least in the way of natural beauty, for those who deviate from the beaten tracks. We cannot doubt that there would be much to reward a diligent explorer in the mountains of Epidaurus and Trozen, and in the volcanic peninsula of Methana; in the hills of Isakonia, where a primitive dialect still lingers; in the chain of Erymanthus, S.W. of Patras; and, above all, in the crags and recesses of Taygetus.

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ROUTE 21.

sessing a powerful navy. About B.C. 500, the Æginetans held the empire of the sea; and at the battle of Salamis, B.C. 480, they were admitted to have distinguished themselves above all

ATHENS TO NAUPLIA (BY EPIDAURUS). other Greeks for their bravery. Long

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Boats can be hired in the Piræus at reasonable rates for excursions in all directions. Ægina may be visited in a separate excursion from Athens, or en route for the Peloponnesus. In shape the island is an irregular triangle, and contains about 41 square m. Its western half consists of a plain, which, though stony, is well cultivated with corn, but the remainder of the island is mountainous and unproductive. A magnificent conical hill, called Oros, occupies the whole southern part of the island, and is the most remarkable among the natural features of Egina. Notwithstanding its small size, Ægina was one of the most celebrated of the Greek islands. It was famous in the mythical period; and in historical times we find it peopled by Dorians from Epidaurus, and pos

a rival of Athens, Ægina succumbed to her in B.C. 456, and became a portion of the Athenian empire. But, dreading the vicinity of such discontented subjects, Pericles, who used to called the island the Eye-sore of the Piræus, expelled the whole population in B.C. 431, and filled their place with Athenian settlers. The expelled Eginetans were settled by the Spartans in Thyrea, and, though restored to their country at the close of the Peloponnesian war, they never recovered their ancient power and prosperity.

The island of Ægina is distant about 11 m. from the Piræus, and nearly the same from Epidaurus. It was one of the few places which escaped the calamities of the devastating war of the Revolution. It was for some time, in 1828-29, the seat of the Greek government; and many rich families of the Peloponnesus bought land and settled here, added to which, refugees from Scio and Psara flocked hither in great numbers; so that in 1829 it became the resort of a mixed population of about 10,000 Greeks from all

parts of Greece. At present the inhabitants of Egina do not exceed 7000 in number. It is in general easier to go from Athens to Egina and Epidaurus than vice versa, owing to the prevalence of northerly winds during a great part of the year; and it is misery to be wind-bound in either of the latter places.

The climate of Ægina is delightful, and the air so pure, that epidemic fevers, the scourge of the Peloponnesus, are almost unknown in it. The soil is fertile, and it is carefully cultivated, yielding all the usual productions of Greece in great abundance. The interior of the island is rather destitute of wood, but the picturesque hills, rocky precipices, and pretty valleys with which it is diversified, afford a variety of pleasing landscapes. The heights present beautiful views of the surrounding islands and continent. The best plan is to land at the N.E. extremity of the island, and to walk up to the temple. This can be easily effected, and it is not more than half an hour's walk.

Town of Egina.-On a pointed hill, 3 m. inland, may be seen the ruins of the Venetian town of the Middle Ages. This has been abandoned by the inhabitants, who, being induced by their love of commerce to prefer the seashore, removed to the site of the ancient city, whose position is marked by a Doric column. To the S. of this column may be seen traces of an old port, oval in shape, and sheltered by two ancient moles, which leave only a narrow passage in the middle, between the remains of towers, on either side of the entrance. In the same direction we find another oval port, twice as large as the former one, the entrance of which is protected in the same way by moles 15 or 20 ft. thick. The walls of the ancient city are traced through their whole extent on the land side. The actual town occupies the site of the ancient city at the N.W. end of the island. The streets in the modern town are more regular than those in most other towns of Greece; some good houses were built here [Greece.]

before Athens became the residence of the court. Since that period, however, the place has again dec ed. Capodistria erected an extensive range of buildings near the town, which he destined for barracks, but they have been converted into a museum, a library, and a school. The Museum was the first institution of the kind in Greece, but its antiquities were transferred to Athens, and the building is falling into decay. The Library, a spacious lofty room, contains a few ancient Greek or Roman books printed in London.

In former days Ægina was celebrated for the beauty and richness of its monuments; the only remains of them consist of a few tombs, vestiges of wells, a mosaic pavement, the column on the shore above mentioned, and the ruins of the

Temple of Minerva (formerly supposed to have been a temple of Jupiter Panhellenius).—This temple, one of the most ancient in Greece, is 6 m. distant from the port, and the badness of the road requires 24 hrs. to reach it; the best course is to land immediately below the temple and to proceed to the town afterwards. The approach, by a winding path, ascending through rich and varied scenery, is very attractive, and nothing can exceed the picturesque beauty of the situation. The ruins are on the top of a hill, of moderate height, but commanding a view of the greater part of the island, the whole of the Gulf of Salamis, and some of the more distant islands, the coast of Attica from the Skironian rocks to Cape Sunium, the Parthenon, and Eleusis. The temple is not near any human habitation, and was surrounded with shrubs and small pinetrees. 22 of its 34 columns are entire, viz. 20 of the peribolus, and 2 of the cella. The greater part of the architrave is remaining, but the cornice with the metopes and triglyphs have fallen. The temple is built of soft porous stone, coated with thin stucco, and the architraves and cornice were painted. The pavement also was covered with fine stucco, of vermilion

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