At the foot of this height 5 mutilated statues of white marble were dug up; 3 female figures of colossal size, one of which is recumbent, and exhibits tolerable execution. colour. The platform upon which it | isthmus. Egina was fabled to have derived its name from a daughter of the rivergod Asopus. Its inhabitants were renowned among the ancient Greeks for their maritime skill, and this and their valour were displayed at Salamis. Their glory and prosperity were, however, of short duration; for they became involved in a naval war with the Athenians in the time of Pericles, which terminated in their complete defeat with the loss of their navy, and they never regained their supremacy. The island was originally barren and unproductive, but was rendered fruitful by the industry of the inhabi tants. Boats for any part of the continent may be hired at Egina at a moderate expense. It is 11 m. from here to Epidaurus, which sent 800 men to Platea and ships to Salamis, but which is now a village, with barely 100 inhabitants and a few small boats. There is, notwithstanding, tolerable accommodation for travellers. The houses are built on the rt. shore of the bay as you enter it, and not on the site of the old town, which was situated on a rocky eminence running into the bay, and connected with the land by a narrow swampy Epidaurus was noted for its sacred grove and sanctuary. It is situated in a recess in the Saronic Gulf, open to the N.E., and backed by mountains. In the time of the Peloponnesian war it appears to have been strongly fortified; under Augustus, its circuit was no more than 15 stadia, whence it would seem that Epidaurus was already at that time reduced to the promontory, where we now see, in many parts, the foundations of Hellenic walls, along the edge of the cliff. Its port is good, and is protected by a peninsula to the S. A small plain surrounds the village, highly cultivated, and very productive. Vegetables are raised here for the supply of the Athenian market. Epidaurus has recently acquired celebrity, from having given its name to the Constitution, adopted by a General Congress of Deputies from all parts of Greece, and promulgated on the 1st of January, 1822. During the period of the Congress the Deputies were forced to live in the open air, being unable to find accommodation in the village. The place at which the first Greek Constituent Assembly met, is 1 hr. to the N.E. of Epidaurus, and is called Piadha (Пiása). This village, beautifully situated on a lofty ridge 2 m. from the sea, was formerly protected by an old castle, still remaining, probably built by the Venetians. The road to it, along the hills, is covered with laurels, myrtles, and pines. Numerous Venetian coins are found here; and the deserted state of Epidaurus may, perhaps, be accounted for by the preference which, for some reason or other, seems to have been given to this neighbouring port. 66 The house in which the legislative assembly was convened is a large rustic chamber, forming a parallelogram, and insulated in the middle of the village, near an ancient tower, erected in the time of the Venetians. Epidaurus to Nauplia, by Hieron is 9 hrs.' ride. The direct road, by Lygourio, is only 25 m., and may be performed with ease in 7 hrs. This rough dwelling," adds Count | remain, and many of the seats of white Pecchio, "reminded me of the cottages limestone are displaced by the bushes of Uri, where the Swiss confederated which have grown among them, it is against the tyranny of Austria." A in better preservation than any other short sail S. of Epidaurus is the vol- theatre in Greece, except that of canic peninsula of Methana, highly in- Dionysus at Athens and the one teresting to the geologist. which exists near Dramisiús, in Epirus, not far from Joannina (Sect. IV.). The upper part of the edifice is so ruined, that it is not easy to ascertain its details; but enough remains to show that the orchestra was about 90 ft. long, and the entire theatre about 370 ft. in diameter: 32 rows of seats still appear above ground in a lower division, which is separated by a diazoma from an upper one, consisting of 20 seats; 24 scale, or flights of steps, diverging in equidistant radii from the bottom to the top, formed the communication with the seats. The theatre, when complete, was capable of containing 12,000 spectators. Pausanias enumerates in this valley, besides the Sanctuary of Esculapius, temples of Diana, Apollo, Venus, Themis, &c. The détour to Hieron, including the time requisite for the inspection of the sacred inclosure, will not lengthen the journey much (as a great part of the road is good), provided the baggage be sent by the direct road. The first part of the road is over a fertile plain, producing tobacco and corn, and covered with clumps of arbutus and myrtle; it then passes through a romantic defile, with a mountaintorrent tumbling beneath. The path in some places is a mere shelf, only broad enough for one to pass, with a precipice above and below; while in others it winds through a beautiful shrubbery, where the myrtle and arbutus are joined by festoons of the clematis. By such a path we reach the spot where stood the iepór, or Sanctuary of Esculapius. The sacred aros, or grove of the Epidaurii, renowned for its sanctity, riches, and the splendour of the sacred offerings which adorned it, was situated at the upper end of a valley, there terminated by a semicircle of steep hills, from which several torrents descend. They unite at the south-western extremity; whence the stream passes, through an opening in the mountains, and joins the river of Lessa. The Stadium.-Of this nothing can be traced but the form, the circular end and a part of the adjacent sides, with portions of 15 rows of seats. Near it are the ruins of two cisterns and a bath, evidently Roman. From Hieron we cross a plain, in which are some vestiges of antiquity, and arrive at the direct rte. about 50 min. after leaving the Hieron. Lygourio is a large village upon a hill, the site of the ancient Lessa. In some parts may be observed traces of the old walls; and the great gate appears to have been near the well. The distance of Lygourio from Nauplia is 4 hrs.; the road passing first through a vale, then across a glen and brook. About 2 hrs. from Lygourio is a pass between a mountain on the rt., and a kastron of good Hellenic masonry, with square and circular towers in good preservation, on the 1. Twenty minutes farther is Mount Arachne on the 1., and half an hour farther a tower on the 1., of old Greek masonry, and a ruined Paleó-kastron about a m. off. About though no traces of the proscenium 3 hrs. from Lygourio is a wooded dell, The most remarkable remains of antiquity here are those of the theatre; numerous fragments of other buildings lie around, but nothing is there to guide the traveller in appropriating to any particular edifice these confused ruins. The Theatre, from the renown of its architect, Polycletus, may be considered as one of the most curious remains of antiquity in Greece. Al and the Monastery of St. Demetrius. | 2 hrs. at Ægina (see preceding Rte.) ; From the monastery there is another whence it proceeds to road to Lygourio. Half an hour farther is a Paleó-kastron of ancient masonry, situated on a bold rock near a torrent. This is probably Midea. The road then passes by several villages and curious conic rocks. The village of Aria succeeds on the 1.; and half an hour further the traveller, passing a rock in which a colossal lion has been sculptured as a monument to the Bavarians who fell in the Greek war, descends to the Bay of Nauplia. ROUTE 22. ATHENS TO NAUPLIA, BY ÆGINA, POROS, HYDRA, AND SPETZIA. A steamer belonging to the Greek Company leaves the Piræus at 6 o'clock each Monday morning (1871), and makes the tour of the Peloponnesus to Patras in 5 days, calling at Ægina, Poros, Hydra, Spetzia, Nauplia, &c.; and a corresponding steamer leaves Patras every Friday morning, calling at the same ports, and leaving Nauplia for the Piraeus every Tuesday at 2 A.M. From the Piræus to Nauplia the passage (fare 21 drachmas) generally occupies, including stoppages, about 11 hrs. Leaving the Piræus at 6 A.M., the steamer arrives in rather less than Poros (2 hrs.), but does not enter the beautiful and capacious harbour of that island. Poros, the ancient Sphæria, is remarkable for its rock of granite. It is separated from the Peloponnesus by a very narrow channel, with a ferry, which is 1 hr. from Damalá, the site of Trazene. The coast of the Peloponnesus in these parts abounds in oranges and lemons; the groves of the latter on the mountain-side are well worth a visit. At Poros mules may be procured, on which it is easy to pass over the sand-bank into the adjacent barren and almost uninhabited isle of Calauria, where there is a large monastery, as well as the substructions of the temple of Neptune, in which Demosthenes expired. The excursion to Trozene is interesting. The traveller, if he be familiar with French literature, will here recall to mind the splendid passage in Racine's Phedre,' "A peine nous sortions des portes de Tresene, &c.," describing the death of Hippolytus. The ruins of the city are hr. N. of the village of Damalá, and consist chiefly of Hellenic substructions, with Frank or Byzantine superstructures. Trozene stood at the foot of the Argolic ridge, and at the entrance of a deep rocky gorge descending from it, spanned by a single arch of rough masonry. At Træezene was held the Greek National Assembly of 1827, when Capodistria was chosen President of Greece for 7 years. From Damala to Castri (Hermione), a rugged road leads, in 5 hrs., across the barren hills of the Argolic peninsula, which commands, however, glorious views over the sea and the neighbouring islands. The Parthenon is conspicuous from one part. Poros was in 1828 the scene of the conferences of the English, French, and Russian Plenipotentiaries, on whose reports the allied Governments settled the basis of the Greek mon archy. Three years afterwards it became the scene of the outbreak which led to the death of Capodistria. The chiefs of the Constitutional party, alarmed at his conduct, took refuge at Hydra, where they established a newspaper, the Apollo,' which awakened the patriotism of Greece, and called on the nation to defend its rights. Capodistria having given orders to seize the national marine at Poros, Miaulis, the high admiral of Greece, acting under instructions from the primates of Hydra, crossed the Peninsula, and took possession of the 'Hellas' frigate. The Russian Admiral Ricord, at that time the senior officer at Nauplia proceeded in company with Capt. (afterwards Lord) Lyons and Capt. Lalande, the English and French commanders, to Poros, where he intended to destroy, at one blow, the island primates opposed to Russian | ascendency. Captains Lyons and Lalande said all they could to prevent this project, but sailed away to get instructions, leaving Admiral Ricord to execute it. Miaulis apprised the Admiral that if a single boat should approach the 'Hellas,' he would immediately set fire to that ship. Admiral Ricord nevertheless attacked the Greek flotilla, whereupon Miaulis consigned the 'Hellas' to the flames. Poros since 1830 has been the national arsenal of Greece; many vessels have been built there under the direction of Admiral Tombazi, who studied naval architecture in England. The naval yard is on a very small scale, but there is no want of skill or of means to build vessels, were funds provided for the purpose. The harbour is between the island and the mainland. The little town of Poros (i. e. Ferry) has a singular appearance, with its houses perched among its dark volcanic rocks, for Sphæria, like the peninsula of Methana, is of volcanic origin. The inhabitants (7000) are of Albanian race; dark, taciturn men, and easily distinguished from the lively Greeks. From Poros the vessel proceeds to have chosen for your country!" said Mr. Waddington to Admiral Tombazi. "It was Liberty that chose the spot, not we," was the patriot's reply. On a rock so barren as scarcely to present on its surface a speck of verdure, rises, in dazzling whiteness, this interesting city. Seen in a summer's evening by moonlight, it is one of the most magnificent scenes imaginable. The white houses, in the form of an amphitheatre upon a steep mountain, then appear like snow; and the lights sparkling from the windows, show like stars. Hydra was not inhabited by the ancients; the people of the island are for the most part of Albanian race, who chose this spot because it was untenanted. These Albanians, like the mountaineers of the same race at Zuli, were the bravest asserters of Hellenic independence. The harbour, from the abrupt sides of which the town suddenly rises, is a deep bay, neither spacious nor secure, on the western side of the island, only protected by the opposite coasts of the Peloponnesus, which are 4 or 5 m. distant. There are two other ports, in which ships of war were laid up during the winter, one on the north and the other on the south of the city. The streets, from the rugged situation of the town, are precipitous and uneven, but remarkable for their cleanliness. The quay is lined with storehouses and shops, the number of which suffices to prove the former extent of the Hydriote commerce. The houses are built in the most substantial manner, and, with the exception of their flat roofs, on European models. The apartments are large and airy, the halls spacious, and paved with marble. The walls are so thick as almost to supersede the necessity of sun-blinds in the niches of their deepset windows. But, independently of the strength of the habitations, their neatness and extreme cleanliness are remarkable, and speak highly for the Hydriote ladies, who are not entirely freed from the sedentary restrictions so general in the East. The furniture, half Oriental and half European, com- | 1835, and lies interred at the Piræus, where a temporary monument has been raised to his memory. The island of Hydra is 12 m. from Spetzia. It is 11 m. long, and 3 m. broad. bines luxury with convenience, whilst its solidity and want of ornament show that it has been made for comfort, not for ostentation. Several monasteries are perched on the cliffs, and the churches and religious establishments amount to 100, some of them possessing ornaments of value. The Hydriote women are pretty; their dress is picturesque. The men are athletic and well formed. The share which this little island took in the regeneration of Greece brought it conspicuously into notice; and to late posterity the names of Conduriotti, Tombazi, Boudouri, and Miaulis, all natives of Hydra, will be cited as those of champions of freedom. The integrity, disinterestedness, and unanimity of these islanders formed a striking contrast to the covetousness, love of plunder, and discord of the Moréote chiefs. The family of Miaulis had been long established at Hydra, and Miaulis was accustomed to the sea. Being entrusted at 19 by his father with the management of a small brig in the Archipelago, his successes were such that he became amongst the richest of the islanders; but the loss of a vessel on the coast of Spain, which, together with her cargo, was his own property, and worth about 160,000 piastres, reduced his circumstances. A few years, however, recruited his fortunes so far as, at the opening of the war, to enable him to contribute three brigs to the navy of Greece. He had at one time been captured by Lord Nelson: his companions, after a strict investigation, maintaining that their cargo was not French property, were condemned; whilst his frankness in admitting the justness of the capture induced the British admiral to give him his liberty. His manners were friendly and unaffected. He was above vaunting or affectation, and only anxious to achieve the liberation of his country. Whilst the bravery of his associates was mingled with a considerable alloy of selfish ambition, Miaulis displayed a cloudless career of patriotism. He died in August, A few fishermen and peasants, forced from the neighbouring continent by the oppression of the Turks, raised the first nucleus of a town; to which, afterwards, numbers of others crowded from Albania, Argolis, and Attica. The descendants of these, and of the refugees who took shelter here after the expedition of the Russians to the Morea in 1770, form the present population of the island. In 1825 its population was estimated at 40,000; but in 1871 it but numbers 11,684. Previous to the Revolution, the island enjoyed the privilege of self-government, no Mussulman being allowed to reside there. A senate, or council of primates was elected. They chose a president, whose appointment required the confirmation of the Porte, to which he became responsible for the tribute, and for the stipulated contingent of sailors furnished to the Ottoman navy. The islanders were the richest in the Archipelago. The ship-owners not only almost exclusively possessed the carrying trade of the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, but many extended their voyages to England and the Baltic. At the commencement of the war, the commercial navy of Hydra amounted to 150 vessels. So proverbial was the honesty of the islanders that, on the departure of a vessel on a distant voyage, it was the practice of the captain to call at the various houses, previous to setting sail, and receive sums of money on speculation, for which no receipt was taken; and no instance is recorded of any captain having failed, within two days of his return, to call and give back the money, with the accumulated profits. Both Hydra and Spetzia have declined since the Revolution; more accessible places having now become the chief centres of Greek commerce. Kastri is opposite the island of Hydra. It is the representative of the ancient Hermione, which was situated |