the ascent over the central ridge of Taygetus. From the summit there are splendid prospects over both the Laconian and the Messenian Gulfs. In the descent the path passes not far from the villages of Sitsova and Kutzava, and so reaches Kalamata. This rte. leads into the heart of the wildest scenery of Taygetus; but it should not be attempted except in the finest and clearest weather. The first part of this pass, that on the eastern side of Taygetus, is perhaps the grandest piece of mountain scenery in the whole Peloponesus. About 1 hr. from Mistra, a great gorge or cleft in the range of Taygetus is entered; 2 hrs. further begins a regular via mala of great magnificence, following up the torrent which rushes down the pass, and sometimes running through the bed itself, which is a broad gravel flat, winding between precipitous walls of rock, crowned with overhanging woods. The mountain sides of the pass are on the grandest scale, and above are seen, from time to time, the snowy summits of Taygetus. The watershed between the Laconian and Messenian sides is reached in about 6 hrs. from Mistra, at a ruined chapel of St. Elias; whence it is 4 hrs. to Lada Kutsava, a hamlet where the night may be passed.

On the Messenian side, the vast scale and savage wildness of the Laconian gorge are lost, but the mountains are still steep, huge, and rugged. Between Lada and Kalamata, the path passes chiefly through olivegroves, and there are some pretty villages scattered about on the hills. Their towers (Túpyo) speak of the vicinity of Maina; and they formerly likewise maintained their independence against the Turks.

Kalamata (Rte. 26).

If the weather or season should render the above rte. impracticable, the traveller can cross Taygetus by a lower col near the village of Kastania.

From Sparta to Leondari is a journey of from 9 to 10 hrs., through a wild and wooded region, a continuation of Taygetus, frequently covered with snow, and supplying the sources of the Eurotas which flows to the E. side, and of the Pamisus and Alpheus which flow to the W. The whole ride is exceedingly beautiful and picturesque.

The road is a continued ascent into the mountains, from the banks of the Eurotas, and on reaching a high ridge overlooking the plain one is disappointed at not being able to see the town of Leondari; but on turning sharp round a prominent point of the hill is agreeably surprised to find it close at hand, planted on the other side of the ridge on which one has been travelling.

Leondari is placed in a commanding position at the top of a hill terminating the chain of Mount Taygetus to the N., and overlooks a narrow pass, separating Arcadia from Messenia. It was considered a position of much importance during the late war, on account of the manner in which an army passing through the defile would be exposed to the enemy at Leondari. The Greeks turned this advantage to but little account; Colocotroni, who

From Leondari to Mavromati is 8 hrs. The descent is steep, and about a quarter of an hr. from Leondari the road crosses the wide bed of a torrent called the Xerillo Potamo, which rises out of the branches of Taygetus, and joins the Alpheus. The valley of Xerillo Potamo to the 1. is beautifully wooded; on the rt. is the lofty mountain Hellenitza. The road passes through fine oak woods and forests.

About 1 hr. from Leondari the road falls in with that from Tripolitza to Arcadia, &c.; 10 m. farther is a tumulus, which was perhaps the boundary mark of the Arcadians and Messenians. The descent continues through a beautiful winding glen, whence Mount Ithome is seen. The view in front of the plains of Messenia, bounded by the Gulfs of Coron and Navarino, is splendid.

The khan of Sakona stands at the foot of the mountains of Macryplagi. It is only suited for a midday's repose, and is to be avoided as a resting-place for the night.

One hour from Sakona the road crosses that to Scala, and in another hour passes over two confluents of the Pamisus; 45 min. afterwards the ascent of Mount Ithome is commenced. It is steep and difficult, though highly beautiful; the trees and shrubs arching over the path. The oak-trees are remarkably fine, their giant arms stretching out horizontally about 6 ft. above the ground, frequently as large as the trunks.

of the remains of Messene. The extreme natural beauty of the site, and the strong historical and romantic interest of the ruins combine to detain one here.

The modern village of Mavromati (Maupouμári) is situated on either side of a fine spring, from which the village derives its name, meaning Black Spring, or literally Black Eye (Mavpov ouμáriov). A copious stream, issuing from it, descends through the centre of the ancient site in a south-westerly direction. The village stands exactly at the foot of the steep hill of Ithome, and nearly in the centre of the inclosure of the city of Messene. This fountain is the ancient Clepsydra, or Water of Secrecy of Pausanias, according to some writers; others identify Clepsydra with a well near the summit of Ithome, and the spring Mavromati with the Fountain of the Agora.

The name of Mavromati, or Black Eye, is not an uncommon term in Greece for springs, and recalls the μéAav üdwp of Homer. The same stream which in the light is most transparent is blackest in the shade, being naturally pure and colourless. "The comparison of a liquid pool fringed with lashes of fern, and overtopped by a brow of shrubs, making a break in the blank, bare hill-side, to the human eye, is a touch of natural poetry for which the Greeks are indebted to an Eastern source. The Turks also call springs eyes.' The author of the Song of Songs says, 'Her eyes are like the fish-pools of Heshbon."”—Clark.

an inscription over it. The interior masonry of the circular court is very beautiful and exact. The soffit stone of the inner door has been thrown down,

so as to rest against the side of the gateway, and gives a clear idea of the grandeur of the original works: it is 18 ft. 8 in. long; in the other two dimensions it is 2 ft. 10 in. and 4 ft. 2 in. The works consisted of a wall or rampart, with square towers at certain intervals, very like the fortifications of the Middle Ages in western Europe. There were originally at least 30 of these towers; 9 were standing a few years since, and seven may be still counted rising above the level of the walls, and in some both stories remain; but on the southern, or seaward side, the foundations only of the walls now exist. It is not one of the least interesting circumstances of these ruins, that we know Messene to have been built under the orders of Epaminondas. After the battle of Leuctra he re-established the power of this city as a check on the ambition of Sparta, B.C. 369.

The two towers next to the gate on the slope of Mount Ithome present a beautiful view as they rise above the woods. These towers, which, with the interjacent curtain and the one towards the northern gate, or gate of Megalopolis, are in better preservation than the rest of the ruins, show that this part of the fortification resembled a chain of redoubts. A flight of steps behind the curtain led to a door in the flank of the tower at half its height. The upper apartment, which was entered by the door, had a range of loopholes, or embrasures, on a line with the door, looking along the parapet of the curtain, and was lighted by two windows above. The embrasures, of which there are some in each face of the towers, have an opening of 7 in. within, and of 3 ft. 9 in. without, so that, with a small opening, their scope is very great. The windows appear to be too high for any purpose but to give light. Both the curtains and towers in this part of the walls are constructed entirely of large squared blocks, without rubble or cement. The curtains are 9 ft. thick. The inner face of the towers has neither door nor window. The tower next to the gate of Megalopolis has had all the stones disjointed,

like those of the Propylæa at Athens, probably by an earthquake. A portion of the ancient pavement still exists. Of the Stadium there are remains of the upper or circular end, and of more than half of one side. At the lower end are ruined fragments of a small Doric temple, which lie together in a confused heap. There are also traces of a theatre, and of other ancient buildings within the walls, which embraced a circuit of about 6 Eng. m., and afforded a refuge for the people of Messenia in time of war.

It is not wonderful that the Spartans were covetous of a neighbouring land so superior to most of their own territory. In B.C. 724 they took Ithome, the acropolis and capital of Messenia. In 685 the war was renewed under Aristomenes, who fortified himself in Ira among the fastnesses of Mount Lykaum. During many years he performed those wonderful feats of courage, and saved himself by those marvellous escapes, which made him the national hero of Messenia. But in 668 Ira fell into the power of Sparta as Ithome had done before. Nothing remained for the conquered Messenians but to become Helots or exiles. Many fled beyond the sea, and settled in Sicily, Italy, and Africa; but enough remained behind to make Sparta the mistress of 200,000 slaves. After an absence of three centuries, their descendants were recalled (B.C. 370) by Epaminondas, who had laid low the power of Sparta on the field of Leuctra. Amid the sound of music and sacred pomp of procession and sacrifice, the Messenians rebuilt the city of their ancestors. It still retained the evidence of its former power in the time of Pausanias, who considers its fortifications far stronger than those of such towns as Byzantium and Rhodes. In B.C. 183, Philopomen, "the last of the Greeks," was taken prisoner before these walls, and cast into a dungeon where he died.

Ascent of Mount Ithome. Ithome is a rugged mountain rising to the height of 2631 ft. between the two great Messenian plains, and consequently

the key of the whole country, and the proper site for its capital. The northern of the two summits into which the the mountain is split is more strictly called Ithome, and the southern Evan. They are connected by a sharp ridge about a m. in length. The Acropolis crowned Mount Ithome, and was united by a continuous wall with the city of Messene on its W. slope, The ascent (2 hrs. 20 min.) is very steep to the highest summit, and difficult from abrupt aclivities and the ruggedness of the path. But the beautiful view amply repays the traveller for the difficulty of the ascent. Before him lie the rich plains of Messenia, bounded by the sea; and the whole chain of the mountains of Arcadia and Maina from one extremity to the other, Taygetus rising conspicuously in the centre, crowned with eternal snow. Near the highest point, at the edge of a precipice, stands the monastery of Vurkanos, upon the site of the Temple of Jupiter (Zeus Ithomates); and here may be traced remains of what were probably the earliest fortifications of Ithome, anterior to the Messenian wars.

From Mavromati to Andrussa is an agreeable ride, and a gradual descent for 24 hrs. About half-way are a Greek ch. and convent. in a secluded valley, which escaped destruction during the Revolution.

Andrussa was a poor town, formerly inhabited by 250 or 300 Turkish families, and only 3 or 4 Greek. It was totally destroyed during the war, and, with the exception of one family, was entirely destitute of inhabitants. The history of this family is singular. A Turkish girl, the daughter of a rich proprietor, escaped the general massacre; and was taken to the Ionian Islands. She became a Christian, married a Frenchman, and returned to Greece, where she claimed and obtained from Capodistria the restoration of her inheritance, and settled here. Andrussa is well situated on an elevated platform, overlooking the valley of Stenycleros, and the plains of Nisi. It was a favourite residence of the Turks, and

was used by them as a depôt for the productions of Messenia. Many merchants of Constantinople had country| houses here. The town has now been partly rebuilt.

To Nisi 1 hr.-On leaving Andrussa, the descent continues for an hr.; and then the road continues along the plain to

Nisi, a large and flourishing village, on an eminence of a m. from the rt. bank of the Pamisus, which is crossed by a wooden bridge. It suffered much in the late war; but many houses have since been rebuilt. A bazaar, formed of wooden shops, was established by the French army of occupation after the battle of Navarino; but its cafés, billiards, and cabarets disappeared with the French troops. It presents a striking contrast to the other deserted districts; the town being surrounded with gardens, vineyards, mulberry-trees, pastures, and cornfields. The situation, in consequence of the neighbouring marshes and the irrigation of the fields, is unhealthy. The French troops here were visited by fevers and agues, which were aggravated by their imprudence in exposing themselves to the hot sun during the day, and to the damp at night, added to their indulgence in raki, wine, and fruits. A stranger should not remain here long during the great heats.

In summer, it is possible to cross direct from Nisi to Kalamata in 2 hrs., thus avoiding the circuit by Camari, but this is impossible when the rivers are swollen, as the whole plain then becomes a marsh.

To Thuria (Paleó-kastron) is 2 hrs. Crossing a bridge, the road traverses the plain to Camari (the ancient Kalama), a village situated on an acclivity of a chain of mountains, of which Taygetus forms part. It then continues to another village in a similar position, where the traveller may leave his horses before climbing to the ruins.

There are remains here of Cyclopean architecture, extending for a m.

along the summit of the hill. Nearly in the centre of the ruins is a quadrangular cistern, 10 or 12 ft. deep, cut out of the rock at one end, while the other sides are of regular masonry. The cistern was divided into three parts by two cross walls; its length is 29 paces, the breadth half as much. It is now much overgrown with briars and shrubs. To the north of this ruin, on the highest part of the ridge, which is here very narrow, are the remains of a Doric temple, whose fluted columns lie scattered about. There are many other foundations and fragments of columns on the summit of the hill, and interesting discoveries would probably repay the expense of excavations. Some remains of walls on the slope seem to have supported terraces of public edifices. According to Pausanias, Thuria was called by Homer Anthea, and incurred the displeasure of Augustus for its adherence to Mark Antony. On this account it was treated with rigour, and given up to the Lacedæmonians, who descended into the plain and fixed their abode there, without entirely deserting the upper city. The river Aris, mentioned as dividing the city, is now a small stream, diverted from its channel for the purposes of irrigation.

About a mile from Paleó-kastron, in the valley, are the ruins called Palea Lutra, a fine Roman building. The walls of brick and mortar are in a good state of preservation, and part of the arched roof remains. The plan does not seem to be that of a bath only, as the name would imply, though there are many appearances of the building having contained baths: it seems rather to have been the palace of some Roman governor. As there are no sources of water here, it is to be supposed that the building was supplied by an aqueduct from a neighbouring stream. The building is a very picturesque object, and stands in a grove of olive, fig, and mulberry trees.

Thuria to Kalamata 2 hrs. The road, which runs along the foot of the lower range of Macryplagi, winds through groves of olive, fig, and mul

berry trees; the plains below are fertile and rich, and the path shaded by high hedges of Indian fig, myrtles, fig-trees, cypresses, and vines. This district was laid waste by Ibrahim Pasha, in 1827, but much of its prosperity and beauty has been restored.

Kalamata, where a British viceconsul resides, affords good accommodation for travellers. It derives its name from the ancient Kalama, which stood about 2 m. inland. The town is about 1 m. from the sea, on the 1. bank of a torrent flowing from Mount Taygetus. A hill rising behind the town is crowned with a ruined castle of the middle ages, and is strengthened by a perpendicular cliff towards the torrent. It is supposed that Kalamata is on the site of Phera, one of the maritime cities in the time of the Trojan war; but it contains no vestiges of antiquity.

The chain of lofty mountains, which protects the town from the N.E., renders the climate one of the mildest in Greece. Here the blast of winter is unfelt, while the heat of summer is never oppressive. The roadstead is only fit for the summer months. The environs were well wooded before the war, but the trees were cut down, or sawed across about 3 ft. from the ground, when Ibrahim Pasha ravaged the plain. The town was set on fire, but escaped better than some others, and owing to the near neighbourhood of the fierce Mainotes, the Egyptians remained but a short time in occupation of it. In many places the groves have been replanted, and young trees have been trained up from the old roots.

Kalamata formerly carried on a considerable trade in oil, silk, figs, &c., and, in consequence of the rapid growth of the new plantations, the export of these articles has been resumed, and forms an important branch of trade.