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The process gone through on arriving at the village which is to be the resting-place for the night is in all cases similar. The servant, or dragoman, finds the Khodjabashi, ouroul (in Greek, Пpoeστós, primate), who, on being shown the stranger's firman or baydi (Turkish passport), assigns him a lodging in a Christian house. The peasant is obliged by law to receive the guest thus quartered upon him; but he performs his duty in a hospitable and agreeable way. Of course he should be remunerated for his trouble, and for any articles of food which the traveller and his attendants may consume. A trifling present is usually sufficient. The better village houses in the Greek provinces of Turkey are nearly all of a like description. "The ground-floor is a stable, appropriated to the horses, cattle, pigs, and fowls of the owner. enter into this menagerie by the same door which admits all the other animals, and ascend to the upper floor by a ladder, giving access to a trap-door closed at night. Here you find yourself under an open shed, where the inmates sleep in summer for the sake of the coolness. Off this verandah open two, or at the most three, rooms, the walls and floors of which are made of rough planks or baked mud. They possess no other furniture except (and that only in the richer cottages) a mat or two, and a few rude cooking utensils. Half the space is generally occupied by heaps of Indian corn, the winter provision of the family, or by implements of husbandry." On a stranger's arrival, the woman of the house hastens to prepare one of these rooms for his reception, turning out her children, removing as much of the lumber as she can lift, spreading her best mat for him, and lighting a fire to cook his supper on the hearth. Then there is a chasse after a couple of the fattest fowls, which are soon caught, killed, plucked, boiled, and served up to the traveller; who, if he has had the precaution to bring coffee, bread, salt, a knife and fork, a drinking cup, one or two tin plates, and a few other necessaries,—and if he does not object to this fare,-gets on wonderfully well. Of course, he must have brought his bed, or else he must lie on the floor, wrapped up in his cloak. His ride during the day will generally procure him some sleep, but between noise and vermin he will pretty surely suffer, and will hail with joy the light of morning. The mid-day halt in the open air, "beneath the planetree fair, whence flows the glittering stream," will be found more refreshing.

10. SKELETON TOURS.

1. Corfu to Constantinople, by Sayádes, Joannina, Metzovo, Meteora, Larissa, Tempe, Salonica, Mount Athos, and back to Salonica, and thence by steamer to Constantinople. This tour will occupy from a month to six weeks.

2. Salonica to Scutari, by Vodena, Monastir, Akhrida, and Elbassan-a fortnight's tour, or rather less.

3. From Scutari to Prevesa, by Alessio, Durazzo, Berat, Avlóna, Tepeleni, Zitza, Joánnina, and Arta-from a fortnight to 3 weeks. From Avlóna a week's excursion should be made into Khimára, or the Acroceraunian Mountains (Route 52). Suli and Parga should be visited from Joannina (Route 45); and Nicopolis from Prevesa (Route 43). The above three tours will enable the traveller to see what is most interesting in Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia.

4. A large portion of Epirus may be visited in a ten days' trip from Corfu, proceeding to Joannina by Delvino and Zitza (Route 41); and returning from Joannina by Sayáda (Route 40), by Paramythia (Route 42), by Suli and Parga (Route 45), or by Arta and Prevesa (Route 44).

8

4

7 Butrinto to Delvino

10 Delvino to Delvinaki
Delvinaki to Zitza..

The most frequented route from Cor-Zitza to Joannina fu to Joannina is to cross to Sayáda, a little port on the shore of Albania, nearly opposite the citadel. Here there is an English Vice-Consul, who will assist with advice, &c. With a fair wind the passage to Sayáda (about 13 m.) occupies only 2 or 3 hrs. From Sayáda to

Joannina it is about 20 hrs. The journey had better be divided between sleeping at Raveni, a village about half-way between the coast and the capital.

On leaving the scala, the road passes under the Greek village of Sayada, and the Mahommedan village of Liopesi, on the slope of the bare hills to the 1. Thence it ascends to

Philates, 3 hrs., a scattered Mahommedan town of 2000 inhabitants. Englishmen, with recommendations from Corfu, are hospitably entertained by an Albanian chieftain, whose house affords a good specimen of the manners and style of living of modern Epirus. Placed near that remarkablyformed cliff, which from Corfu is so effective a feature in the view of Albania, Philátes abounds in rich and beautiful landscapes. The next considerable village on the road is Raveni. Hence it is 10 hrs. to Joannina. The road is very pretty in parts, but there is no place or object of particular interest. Trout fishing is to be had on the way in the river Kalamas, the ancient Thyamis.

Joánnina (see next Rte.)

Those who wish to shorten their journey by land to Delvino, should disembark not at Butrinto, but at the Forty Saints, or Santi Quaranta, a small port 17 m. from the harbour of Corfu, and whence it is a ride or walk of only 3 hrs. to Delvino.

The Bay of Butrinto is the Portus Pelodes of antiquity, and its muddy waters still justify the name, which seems to have been applied also to the larger of the two lakes. A bar of sand at its mouth prevents the entrance of vessels other than boats of light draft, into the river that unites the sea and the lake, and which runs for nearly 3 m. through a marshy plain, once, perhaps, the property of Atticus, the friend of Cicero (Cicero ad Att. iv. 1). The fisheries here are valuable, and supply the market of Corfu. The fish are caught by means of a strong dam across the river, near where it issues from the lake, made of large beams, crowned with a palisading of reeds. The fish are taken in chambers in the dam during the season, which usually lasts from September to March.

The Custle of Butrinto is situated on the S. bank of the river, at the fishery. There is a sort of khan, or wine-shop, adjacent, and a few huts inhabited by the fishermen. Here horses should have been ordered previously for the journey to Delvino. The old Venetian fort is little more than a ruinous enclosure, inhabited, rather than garrisoned, by a dozen ragged Albanians, under a petty officer. It is the only relic-with another ruined fort near the mouth of the river-of the station

which the Venetians maintained here | the upper extremity of the Lake of for so many centuries. This now last Butrinto. At about 2 hrs. from outpost of Islam is barely 10 m. from Delvino, we pass on the left an the civilized town of Corfu; yet the insulated hill, the summit of which is contrast is greater than between surrounded by Hellenic foundations, Europe and America. The ruins of the remains of the ancient Phanike, Buthnotum occupy a rocky hill on the which name is preserved in that of the opposite bank of the river from the small village of Phiniki, lying directly modern Castle; "celsam Buthnoti ac- under the former citadel to the S.W. cedimus urbem," in Virgil's phrase. Phoenike is described by Polybius, in The ancient Greek city was succeeded B.c. 230, as being "the strongest, most by a Roman colony, and that by a powerful, and richest of the cities of mediæval fortress; and its history may Epirus;" and it maintained its imporbe traced in its masonry. In some tance to the times of the Byzantine parts, especially at the N.E. corner, Empire. near the lake, there are some fine Hellenic fragments and foundations, composed of large blocks of stone without cement, and in regular layers, but surmounted by Roman, Byzantine, or Venetian stonework,-the whole crowned with luxuriant ivy and creepers.

The plain or valley of Butrinto is marshy, but in parts well wooded. It contains the small villages of Mursia and Zara. It abounds in woodcocks, snipes, and wild-fowl, and is the paradise and great resort of English shooting-parties from Corfu. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the two lakes. The smaller (that of Riza) communicating with the larger by a narrow winding stream, is of a circular form, about 4 m. in circumference, and embosomed in wood. Nearer the mill, on its W. bank, is a salt spring, which issues in copious volumes from the rocks, and turns the wheels. The larger lake, or Livari (a corruption of the Latin "vivarium," or fish-pond), is 6 m. long, and 2 across. It is separated from the sea only by a rocky isthmus. Its scenery is very beautiful, and the mountain range above Devino towers grandly beyond its N. extremity.

Butrinto to Delvino is 8 hours. The road passes through the woods so well known to English sportsmen from Corfu, and then sweeping round the S. and E. sides of Lake Riza, threads a leafy glen, and then emerges on the plain of Delvino, which is well wooded, and watered by two rivers, the Pavla and Vistrioza, both of which fall into

Delvino is a decayed town of about 400 houses, or 2000 inhabitants, half Christian and half Mahommedan. The houses are scattered over a space of nearly 2 m., being situated, as usual in Albanian towns, at some distance from each other, in consequence of the frequent feuds between the clans and family allies, into which all Albanian communities were formerly divided. Delvino is beautifully situated on sloping hills, and chiefly in an opening of the lower ranges of the high ridge of Eryenik, which rises immediately above the town. Ravines, spanned by old picturesque bridges of a single arch, groves of olives and oranges, vineyards, and scattered planes and poplars, are interspersed among the houses. There are several hospitable Beys, or Mahommedan landed gentlemen, who willingly entertain English travellers recommended to them from Corfu. A conical rock, above the principal ravine, is crowned by a small ruined castle, beneath which is a bazaar. There are several small mosques and one Christian church. Delvino is the residence of a Mudir, or petty local governor of a district, who is under the orders of the Kaimakan of Argyrokastro. It is 3 hrs. distant from its port at Santi Quaranta (Rte. 52). It is 6 hrs. from Gardiki (Rte. 46); 8 from Port Palermo (Rte. 52); 6 from Argyrókastro, by the direct route over the ridge of Eryenik, which is not, however, passable when the snow lies deep; and in the winter months the traveller must go round either by

scenery.

From Delvino to Delvinaki is usually a ride of nearly 12 hrs., though with good horses much less time is required. The road first ascends the mountain at the back of Delvino, among vineyards producing a pleasant red wine, and then passes over rugged and barren hills for 2 hrs., as far as to the village of Kendikaki. Further on, a hollow country is on our right, surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains, and broken by ravines. At Marzina, 4 hrs. from Delvino, the road to Argyrokastro, Tepeleni, &c., turns off to the left; our route lies over an alternation of hills and valleys to

Murgina to the E., or by Gardiki, to | Joánnina. The fact is, that to ascerthe W. of that ridge. Either of these tain the site of Dodona, would seem journeys occupies about 10 hrs. That now to require a response from the by Gardiki presents far the finest Oracle itself; for the former dwelling of the spirit, which once guided half the world, has lost its name and local habitation. An important datum for determining the site of Dodona is, that it was 4 days' journey from Buthrotum, and 2 days from Ambracia. According to the present computation, Zitza is about 28 hrs. from the former, and 16 from the latter. This meets the case very well. We must recollect that the latter journey is with, and the former against, the grain of the hard mountain ranges which stretch from N. to S., between Pindus and the Ionian Sea. But Leake (Northern Greece,' vol. iv.) satisfactorily proves that the city of Dodona stood at Kastritza, at the southern end of the lake of Joánnina, where there are still remains of an ancient town, while the temple and grove probably occupied the peninsula on which the modern fortress has been built.

Delvinaki, a village of about 300 houses, situated on the slopes of a hill, in a high and healthy position. Thence it is not more than 8 or 9 hrs. to Joannina by the most direct route; but every traveller should diverge to see Zitza.

Delvinaki to Zitza is 8 hrs.-2 m. beyond Delvinaki a steep ascent commeuces, and after winding through woody hills, the mule-path descends through oak-forests into a plain. Leaving the river Kalamas to the left, it reaches a hamlet, which is pleasantly situated on the ascent of the hills, and surrounded by wood.

Thence the road passes by the monastery of Sosino, which stands on the summit of an insulated conical hill, rising 500 feet above the valley.

4 m. before reaching Zitza is the waterfall of Glizani, where the Kalamas is precipitated over a rock 60 or 70 feet in height. The scenery round the cascade is pretty; and the Kalamas, which is about as wide here as the Clyde at Cora Lynn, flows in a placid stream to the edge of the precipice, whence it falls in one unbroken sheet. The Kalamas is the ancient Thyamis.

It has been supposed by some that Zitza is on the site of Dodona, which is placed by Leake on the lake of

Close shunn'd Elysium's gates-my shade shall 4 hrs. The only interesting object on