4. SANTA MAURA (LEUCADIA).

seen course for a considerable dis-iii. 81; iv. 8). It was in the same tance before they emerge again to state in B.C. 218, for Polybius (v. 5) the light of day. Channels of this relates that Philip, the son of Demekind carry off the waters of the Lake trius, had his galleys drawn across of Joannina in Epirus, and of the the dry land in that year; and we Copaic Lake in Boeotia, and are deduce a similar inference from Livy frequent in Arcadia. (See Leake's (xxxiii. 17), who, in relating the siege Morea,' vol. iii., pp. 45, 153-155, of Leucas by the Romans, in B.C. 263, &c.) Their familiarity with these 197, has given an admirably graphic freaks of Nature was probably the description of the locality: "Leucaorigin of the extravagant legends of dia, nunc insula, et vadoso freto quod the ancient Greeks about long sub-perfossum manu est, ab Acarnaniâ marine courses of rivers, e. g., of the divisa, tum peninsula erat, occidentis Alpheus of Elis reappearing in the regione artis faucibus cohærens AcarSicilian fountain of Arethusa. naniæ. In his angustiis Leucas posita est, colli applicata verso in Orientem et Acarnaniam. Ima urbis plana sunt, jacentia ad mare, quo Leucadia ab Acarnania dividitur. Inde terrâ marique expugnabilis est. Nam et vada sunt stagno similiora quam mari; et campus terrenus omnis, operique facilis." The subsequent restoration of the canal and the construction of a stone bridge replacing the isthmus, and of which some remains are still visible near the modern Fort Constantine, were probably the work of Augustus, for both the canal and the bridge appear from Strabo to have been in existence in the time of that Emperor, whose policy it was to facilitate communications throughout his vast dominions, and who would feel particularly interested in opening a direct route between his newly-founded colonies of Nicopolis and Patræ.

The earliest appellation of this island is that found in Homer-" the peninsula or Acte of the mainland" AKT 'HTеipоto-a term also applied to other remarkable projections of the Greek continent, such as Attica (Attikń for 'AKTIK), Argolis, and the promontory of Mount Athos (Od., xxiv. 377). The name of Epirus, or Continent, was anciently given in contradistinction from the neighbouring islands, not only to Epirus proper, but also to Acarnania; the latter province having changed its name in after ages in honour of the hero Acarnan. The original inhabitants of this peninsula were Telebox and Leleges; but, in the 7th eenty. B.C., the Corinthians under The Leucadians had three ships Cypselus founded a new town called in the battle of Salamis (Herod., viii. Leucas in the N.E. of the country, 45); and afterwards sided, like the near the isthmus, in which they majority of the Dorian states, with settled 1000 of their citizens, and Sparta during the Peloponnesian war. in which they became amalgamated In the contest between the Romans with the inhabitants of the Homeric and Philip of Macedon, the AcarnaNericos, a city which probably stood nians, of whom Leucas had become on nearly the same site. The Corinth- the capital and national centre (“Id ians also cut a canal through the caput Acarnaniæ erat, eoque in conisthmus, and thus converted the pen- silium omnes populi conveniebant insula into an island. This canal Livy, xxxiii. 17), rejected the Rewas afterwards filled up by deposits man alliance, and were reduced after of sand; and in the Peloponnesian a gallant defence, picturesquely dewar it was no longer available for scribed by Livy. Leucas thus fell unships, which on more than one occa-der the power of Rome, but continued sion during that period were con- to be still a place of considerable imveyed across the isthmus (Thucyd., portance, as appears both from the [Greece.]

E

great number of Roman coins found | bend to the eastward, and then runs in the island, and also from the fact S. in a course nearly parallel to of its having been made very early the opposite hills of Acarnania, thus the seat of a Christian Bishopric. forming the channel between the The Bishop of Leucas was one of the island and the mainland. The fathers of the Council of Nice in A.D. southern shore is more soft in aspect 325. On the conquest of the Byzan- and more sloping and cultivated than tine Empire by the Franks in the the rugged rocks of the northern 13th centy. this island fell to the coast: the bay of Basilike, in parlot of a Latin noble, whose family ticnlar, washes a rich and fertile seems to have retained possession of valley; and the ancient name of it, with some interruptions, until it Hellomenum is preserved in that of was seized by the Turks in 1467. a harbour in this part of the island. From that time forth until the fall The most populous and wooded disof the Republic of St. Mark, Leucadia trict is, however, that opposite Acarwas sometimes held by the Porte, nania. Here, where the valleys open sometimes by the Venetians, to which out from among the mountains tolatter power it was not finally ceded wards the sea, stand many pictutill the Treaty of Passarowitz in 1718. resque villages, embowered in orange A few localities still preserve the and olive groves. In this part of names of their old Mahommedan pro- the island is the deep and sheltered prietors, as is also the case on the port of Vliko, a semicircular bay mainland of Greece. After passing reaching far into the mountains, and through, subsequent to 1797, a series surrounded by groves of olives and of vicissitudes similar to those under- fruit-trees. It is a charming angone by its neighbours, this island was choring place for a yacht. On the occupied in the spring of 1810 by northern shore of the narrow ena detachment of the English forces, trance, and shaded by a fine planewhich in the preceding autumn had tree, is a copious spring, called by expelled the French from Cephalo- tradition from the period of the nia, Zante, Ithaca, and Cerigo. The Turkish occupation, the Pasha's FounFort, garrisoned by several hundred tain. The scenery around is delightFrench troops, held out for some ful. weeks. The veteran General Sir From under the N.E. extremity of Richard (then Major) Church, so well the island, a lido, or spit of sand, 4 known from the command he held m. in length, sweeps out towards during the Greek War of Indepen- the shore of Acarnania, from which dence, and now (1871) resident at its extremity is separated by a Athens, was severely wounded in the shallow lagoon not more than from assault which led to its capture. 2 to 5 ft. deep. It is on this lido, at Leucadia somewhat resembles the the distance of about of a mile Isle of Man in shape and size. It from Acarnania, and the same from consists of a range of limestone Amaxíchi, that a harbour was conmountains, terminating at its north-structed by the Anglo-Ionian Governeastern extremity in a bold and ment, and protected by a mole terrugged headland, whence the coast minating in a lighthouse. Flanking runs in a S.W. direction to the cele- this harbour stands the Fort of brated promontory of Sappho's Leap -called, of old, Leucates-which has been corrupted by the Italians into Capo Ducato. The name of the cape, as well as of the island, is of course derived from its white cliffs (Aeúkás), like our own Albion. At the N.E. headland already mentioned, the ridge makes a sudden

Santa Maura, erected in the middle ages by one of the Latin princes, but repaired and remodelled both by the Turks and the Venetians. It derives its name from a chapel within the circuit of its walls, dedicated to Santa Maura, whose festival is celebrated on May 3. The fort was connected with the island by an

aqueduct, serving also as a causeway, | tains about 5000 inhabitants, nearly 1300 yds. in length, and with 260 one-fourth of the population of the arches. It was originally built by whole island. The town has a the Turks, but was ruined by the wretched appearance, the houses beearthquake of 1825. It forms a pic-ing rarely more than two stories high, turesque object spanning the lagoon. The Venetian governor, his officers, and the chief men of the island, formerly lived within the fort, and kept their magazines, and the cars (auakai) on which they carried down their oil and wine from the inland districts, at the nearest point of the island. The congregation of buildings thus formed, and to which the inhabitants of the fortress gradually retired as the seas became more free from corsairs, arose by degrees to be the capital and seat of government, and is called, in memory of its origin, Amaxíchi ('Auatixiov). Hence, the FORT alone is properly called Santa Maura, and the CAPITAL Amaxíchi; while the island at large retains its ancient name of Leucadia.

Leucadia is divided into 8 districts, or Demoi.

and the upper one being constructed of wood-a necessary precaution on account of the frequent earthquakes. Inside, the ceilings of the rooms are strengthened with massive joists of wood, making them look like the cabin of a ship. A bad earthquake, such as occurs here and in Zante about once every twenty years, throws all these houses on their beam-ends, but it is easy to right them again. The slight shocks which occur almost every month are merely like the rolling of a ship in a heavy sea. When an earthquake begins, all the churches are thrown open, and crowded by the population; the bells are rung and masses chanted to avert the awful calamity. This custom, when observed at night, has a very solemn effect.

Amaxíchi derives its only pleasing feature from a very ancient and venerable olive-wood behind it, stretching to the foot of the mountains, and variegated with cypresses and gardens. Beneath its shade, festas are frequently held, where the stranger will have an opportunity of observing the picturesque costumes of the islanders. The luxuriant vegetation, however, increases the malaria engendered by the stagnant waters of the lagoon.

The private houses which formerly filled the wide area within the fort have now been mostly cleared away; and this, together with the northern breeze which sets in daily during the summer months, contributes to render it not unhealthy. The walls, which are not strong except in their almost insular position, are commanded, at the distance of about 1200 yards, by a small fort on the Acarnanian coast, erected at the beginning of the present century by Ali Pasha, but now dis- This island produces corn sufficient mantled and in ruins; this is also for 8 months' consumption of its inthe case with another fortress, built habitants, and exports oil, wine, and by the same despot, at the southern salt, of which a considerable quantity extremity of the channel, at a period is procured by evaporation in the when he hoped to make himself lagoons. The currant-grape is also master of the island, as he lately had partially cultivated. The chief deof Prevesa. Fort Santa Maura, how- pendency of Leucadia is the island ever, is not badly placed for the Meganési (Meyavno), the ancient defence of the strait at the point Taphus, off its southern shore, conwhere, though not narrowest, it is taining about 200 families, and growmost easily fordable. A few palming corn and olives. Near Meganisi, and date trees give it a picturesque and close to the entrance of the and Oriental appearance. beautiful bay of Vliko (described Amaxíchi is built in the most un-above), are several pretty wooded healthy position of the whole island, islets.

on the edge of the lagoons. It con- The lagoon of Santa Maura is so

shallow that only light canoes (called | to the town which they erected on Movóğuλa) can traverse it. Its length the shore below. Numerous instances is about 3 m., and in breadth it occur in history of different quarters varies from 100 yrds, to a mile and of the same city being known by disa half. Between the fort and the tinct names. The long spit of sand town the Anglo-Ionian Government on which the modern Fort Santa constructed a canal, with a towing- Maura has been built probably did path, for boats drawing not more not exist in antiquity, and may have than 4 or 5 ft. of water. A ship- been thrown up at first by an earthcanal, 16 ft. deep, was constructed quake, for it is still yearly increasing, across the whole length of the lagoon, from the action of the winds and the from Fort Santa Maura to Fort waves. Alexander, a distance of about 3 m., but this undertaking has proved al-as well as Fort Constantine, a few together unsuccessful. hundred yards N. of it, were built

Fort Alexander, mentioned above,

volted against King Otho, and was besieged here with his 130 followers. The royalists kept up a heavy fire of canon and musketry on Paleocaglia for several hours, and it was returned from the small arms of the besieged; but no blood was shed on either side, as was often the case in these Greek skirmishes, both parties firing from behind rocks, &c., without exposing their persons or coming to close quarters, and none but the chiefs being really in earnest. During the night Grivas and his men escaped into the AngloIonian territory. He was afterwards amnestied, and lived in a tower on the Acarnanian shore.

Colonel Leake (Northern Greece,' by the Russians when protectors of vol. iii. p. 20) argues that Strabo the Septinsular Republic, at the becould never have visited Leucadia, ginning of the present century, for because he states that the isthmus, the purpose of defending the narrowest the ancient canal, the Roman bridge, part of the channel. On the Acarnaand the city of Leucas, were all close nian shore, just opposite, are the retogether, while Nericos was in a mains of a fortified enclosure of the different situation. The great topo- middle ages, called Paleocaglia. In grapher, following the common and June, 1847, Theodore Grivas, a wellsuperficial opinion, believes the isth-known chieftain of the revolution, remus and ancient canal to have been 3 m. north of the city of Leucas, and near the modern Fort Santa Maura. Though disinclined to dissent from a writer who generally hits off ancient topography by a sort of intuition, we, on the whole, agree on this occasion with K. O. Müller and others, who believe that the isthmus and canal of antiquity were a little south of the city of Leucas, i. e. between Fort Alexander in the island, and Paleocaglia on the mainland. The channel is narrowest at this point, not being more than 100 yds. across; and it is probable that the old capital would have been built close to the isthmus connecting the peninsula with the mainland. Its ruins now cover several rocky eminences, and the foundations of its walls may still be traced down to the edge of the strait. The remains on the lower | ground are of a more regular, and, consequently, more modern masonry than those on the higher ground behind, Hence it seems probable that Nericos was the ancient Acropolis, built on the heights commanding the isthmus; and that the Corinthian colonists gave the name of Leucas

Nothing can be more delightful than a scramble among the ruins of the ancient city of Leucas. The crumbling walls of Cyclopean and Polygonal masonry cover several rocky heights, at the distance of only a short walk from the modern town. They are overgrown with ivy and creepers, and vineyards and olive-groves are planted among them. Below, a copiLous fountain (ή μεγάλη βρύσις) issues from the foot of the hill. Water is conveyed thence to Amaxíchi, a distance of 14 m., by a subterranean con

duit, restored in late years, but ori- | city of Leucas, crowning the rocky ginally constructed by the Turks, who rival the ancient Romans and shame modern European nations by their love of a copious supply of pure water. Around this fountain, and reaching down to the edge of the channel, was the cemetery of the Leucadians, as appears from the numerous sepulchral in-criptions, vases, &c., discovered in this vicinity.