first dip the sponge in glue-water, and rub it on the wrong side; then dry it before a fire. To Dip Rusty Black Silks. If it requires to be red dyed, boil logwood, and in hall an hour put in the silk and let it simmer half an hour. Take it out, and dissolve a little blue vitriol and green copperas, cool the copper, let it simmer hour, then dry it over a stick in the air. If not red dyed, pin it out, and rinse it in spring water, in which teaspoonful of oil of vitriol has been put. Work it about 5 minutes, rinse it in cold water, and finish it by pinning and rubbing it with gum-water. To Clean Silk Stockings. Wash with soap and water, and simmer them in the same for 10 minutes, rinsing in cold water. For blue cast, put 1 drop of liquid blue into a pan of cold spring-water; run the stockings through this a minute or two, and dry them. For a pink east, put 1 or 2 drops of saturated pink dye into sold water, and rinse them through this. For a flesh-color, add a little rose pink in a thin soapliquor, rub them with clean flannel, and calender or mangle them. To Extract Grease-spots from Silks and Colored Muslins, etc. Scrape French chalk, put it on the grease-spot, and hold it near the fire, or over a warm iron, or water-plate, filled with boiling water. The, grease will melt, and the French chalk absorb it; brush or rub it off. Repeat if necessary. To take Stains out of Silk. Mix together in a phial 2 oz. of essence of lemon, 1 oz. of oil of turpentine. Grease and other spots in silk are to be rubbed gently with a linen rag dipped in the above composition. Benzine may be used instead. To Scour Yarn. It should be laid in lukewarm water for 3 or 4 days, each day shifting it once, wringing it out, and laying it in another water of the same nature; then carry it to a well or brook, and rinse it till nothing comes from it but pure, clean water; that done, take a bucking-tub, and cover the bottom with very fine aspen ashes, and then having opened and spread the slippings, lay them on those ashes, and put more ashes above, and lay in more slippings, covering them with ashes as before; then lay one upon another till the yarn is put in; afterwards cover up the uppermost yarn with a bucking-cloth, and, in proportion to the size of the tub, lay in a peck or two more of ashes; this done, pour upon the uppermost cloth a great deal of warm water, till the tub can receive no more, and let it stand so all night. Next morning set a kettle of clean water on the fire, and when it is warm pull out the spigot of the buckIng-tub to let the water run out of it into another clean vessel; as the bucking-tub wastes fill it up again with warm water on the fire, and as the water on the fire wastes so likewise fill up that with the lye that comes from the bucking-tub, ever observing to make the lye hotter and hotter, till it boils; then you must, as before, ply it with the boiling lye at least 4 hours together. For whitening, you must take off this bucking-cloth, then putting the yarn with the lye ashes into large tubs, with your hands labor the yarn, ashes and lye pretty well together; afterwards carry it to a well or river, and rinse it clean; then hang it upon poles in the air all day, and in the evening take the slippings down and lay them in water all night; the next day hang them up again, ab throw water on them as they dry, observing to turn that side outermost which whitens slowest. After having done this for a week together, put all the yarn again into the bucking-tub without ashes, covering it as before with a bucking-cloth; lay thereon good store of fresh ashes, and drive that buck, as before, with a very strong boiling lye for half a day or more; then take it out and rinse it, hanging it up, as before, in the day-time, week. Lastly, wash it over in fair water, and to dry, and laying it in water at night another dry it. To Scour Thick Cotton Counterpanes. Cut 1 lb. of mottled soap into thin slices, and put it into a pan with oz. of potash and 1 oz. of pearlash; pour a pail of boiling water on it and let it stand till dissolved; then pour hot and cold water in a scouring tub, with a bowl of the solution; put in the counterpane, beat it well, turn it often, and give it a second liquor as before; then rinse it in cold water; now put 3 teaspoonfuls of liquid blue into a thin liquor, stir it, and put in the counterpane; beat it about 5 minutes, and dry it in the air. To Scour Undyed Woollens. Cutlb. of the best palm soap into thin slices, and pour such a quantity of boiling river-water on it as will dissolve the soap, and make it of the with water such as the hand can bear, and add a consistence of oil; cover the articles about 2 in. lump of pearlash and about of the soap solution. Beat them till no head of lather rises on the water; throw away the dirty water and proceed as before with hotter water, without pearlash. To Scour Clothes, Coats, Pelisses, etc. If a black, blue, or brown coat, dry 2 oz. of fuller's earth, and pour on it sufficient boiling water to mix it, and plaster with it the spots of grease; take a pennyworth of bullock's gall, mix with it a pt. of stale urine, and a little boiling water; with a hard brush dipped in this liquor, brush spotted places. Then dip the coat in a bucket of cold spring-water. When nearly dry, lay the nap right, and pass a drop of oil of olives over with a brush to finish it. If gray, drab, fawns, or maroons, cut palm soap into thin slices, and pour water upon it to moisten it. Rub the greasy and dirty spots of the coat. water, repeating, if necessary, as at first, and use Let it dry a little, and then brush it with warm water a little hotter; rinse several times, in warm water, and finish as before. To Scour Carpets, Hearth-Rugs, etc. Rub a piece of soap on every spot of grease or dirt; then take a hard brush dipped in boiling water, and rub the spots well. If very dirty, a solution of soap must be put into a tub, with hot water, and the carpet well beat in it, rinsing it in several clean waters, putting in the last water a tablespoonful of oil of vitriol, to brighten the colors. To Clean Cotton Gowns. Make a solution of soap, put in the articles, and wash them in the usual way. If greens, reds, etc., run, add lemon-juice, vinegar, or oil of vitriol to the rinsing water. To Clean Scarlet Cloth. Dissolve the best white soap; and if black-looking spots appear, rub dry soap on them; while the other soap is dissolving, brush it off with hot water. If very dirty, immerse the article into the warm solution, and rub the stained parts. Dispatch it quickly, and as soon as the color begins to give, wring it out, and immerse it in a pan or pail of warm water; wring it again, and immerse it in cold spring-water, in which mix a tablespoonful of solution of tin. Stir it about, and in 10 minutes hang it to dry in the shade, and cold press it. Another Method. On of a peck of wheaten bran pour boiling water in a hair sieve. In the bran-water, at a hand-heat, immerse the cloth, and rub it, looking through it to see the spots. To a second liquor, add nearly oz. of white or crude tartar. If darkened, make a clean liquor of cold spring-water with a drop or two of solution of tin, soak it in 10 minutes, wring it, and hang it up to dry. To Dip Scarlet Cloth. After it has been thoroughly cleaned with soap, and rinsed in warm water, put into boiling springwater lb. of young fustic or zant, 1 dr. of pounded and sifted cochineal, and an equal quantity of cream of tartar; boil 5 or 6 minutes, and cool by adding 1 or 2 pts. of cold spring-water, and 1 tablespoonful of the solution of tin. Stir the mixture, put in the cloth, boil it for 10 minutes, and when dry, cold press it. To Raise the Nap on Cloth. Soak in cold water for an hour, then put on a board, and rub the thread-bare parts with a halfworn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or with a prickly thistle, until a nap is raised. Hang up to dry, and with a hard brush lay the nap the right way. ard of boiling water, and rub on the spot a little oxalic acid, or salt of sorrel, and when the cloth has thoroughly imbibed the acid, wash it in lye. 2. Wet the spot with lemon-juice, sprinkle with salt, and lay in the sun until dry. Repeat the application until the stain is removed. To make Breeches-Ball. Mix 1 lb. of Bath brick, 2 lbs. of pipe-clay, 4 color them with rose-pink, yellow ochre, umber, oz. of pumice-stone powder, and 6 oz. of ox-galls; Irish slate, etc., to any desired shade. Clothes' Ball. 1. Mix 2 lbs. of pipe-clay, 4 oz. of fuller's earth, 4 oz. of whiting, and of a pt. of ox-galls. 2. Portable balls, for removing spots from clothes, may be thus prepared: Fuller's earth, perfectly dried (so that it may crumble into a powder), is to be moistened with the clear juice of lemons, and a small quantity of pure pearlashes is to be added. Knead the whole carefully together, till it acquires the consistence of a thick elastic paste; form it into convenient small balls, and dry them in the sun. To be used, first moisten the spot on the clothes with water, then rub it with the ball, and let the spot dry in the sun; after having washed it with pure water, the spot will entirely disappear. To take Grease out of Leather Breeches. The white of an egg applied to the injured part and dried in the sun, will effectually answer this purpose. Another Method. To Revive Faded Black Cloth. Having cleaned it well, boil 2 or 3 oz. of logwood for an hour. Dip it in warm water and squeeze it dry, then put it into the copper, and boil an hour. Take it out and add a small piece of green copperas, and boil it another an hour. Hang it in the air for an hour or two, then rinse it in 2 or 3 cold waters, dry it, and let it be regu-tirely removed. larly brushed with a soft brush, over which 1 or 2 drops of oil of olives have been rubbed. To 2 tablespoonfuls of spirits of turpentine, put an oz. of mealy potatoes, add some of the best Durham mustard, with a little vinegar; let them dry, and when well rubbed, the spots will be en To Cleanse Feathers from Animal Oil. Mix well with 1 gall. of clear water, 1 lb. of quicklime; and, when the lime is precipitated in fine powder, pour off the clear lime-water for use, at the time it is wanted. Put the feathers to be cleaned in a tub, and add to them a sufficient quantity of the clear lime-water, so as to cover them about 3 inches. The feathers, when thor oughly moistened, will sink down, and should re- Fuller's Purifier for Woollen Cloths. ents: 4 Six lbs. of fuller's earth, 1 lb. of pipe clay, and oz. of French chalk. The dress should be washed in lather, and not by applying the soap in the usual way direct upon the muslin. Make a lather by boiling soap and water together; let it stand until it is sufficiently cool for use, and previously to putting the dress into it, throw in a handful of salt; rinse the dress without wringing it in clear, cold water, into which a little salt has been thrown; remove it and rinse it in a fresh supply of clear water and Make up the compound into six-penny or shilsalt. Then wring the dress in a cloth and hanging cakes for sale. These cakes are to be kept in water, or in small wooden boxes. it to dry immediately, spreading as open as possible, so as to prevent one part lying over another. Should there be any white in the pattern, mix a little blue in the water. To Bleach Wool, Silks, Straw Bonnets, etc. Put a chafing-dish with some lighted charcoal into a close room, or large box; then strew 1 or 2 oz. of powdered brimstone on the hot coals. Hang the articles in the room or box, make the door fast, and let them hang some hours. Fine colored woollens are thus sulphured before dyed, and straw bonnets are thus bleached. To take Iron-moulds out of Linen. Make a paste of the above with the following: One oz. of rectified oil of turpentine, 2 oz. of spirit of wine, and 14 lbs. of melted oil soap. To Clean all Sorts of Metal. Mix pt. of refined neat's-foot oil, and a gill of spirit of turpentine. Scrape a little rottenstone; wet a woollen rag with the liquid, dip it into the scraped kernel, and rub the metal well. Wipe it off with a soft cloth, polish with dry leather, and use more of the kernel. In respect to steel, if it is very rusty, use a little powder of pumice with the liquid, on a separate woollen rag first. To Take out Writing. Wash by means of camel's hair pencils dipped alternately in solutions of cyanide of potassium 1. Hold the iron-mould on the cover of a tank- and oxalic acid. To take out Marking Ink. Most indelible ink contains silver as a basis, and may be removed by a solution of cyanide of potassium. When the basis of the ink is carbon, however, this will fail. Chlorine will destroy all stains and markings dependent upon organic matters except the carbon ink. To Restore Hangings, Carpets, Chairs, etc. Beat the dust out of them as clean as possible, then rub them over with a dry brush, and make a good lather of Castile soap, and rub them well over with a hard brush, then take clean water and with it wash off the froth, make a water with alum, and wash them over with it, and when dry, mcst of the colors will be restored in a short time; and those that are yet too faint, must be touched up with a pencil dipped in suitable colors; it may be run all over in the same manner with water-colors mixed well with gum-water, and it will look at a distance like new. To Clean Paper Hangings. Cut into 8 half-quarters a stale quartern loaf; with one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned by means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round; then go again round with the like sweeping stroke downward, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread too must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all necessary. To Clean Leather. Take of French yellow ochre, 1 lb.; sweet oil, a dessertspoonful. Mix well together, so that the oil may not be seen; then take of pipe-clay 1 lb.; starch, lb. Mix with boiling water; when cold lay it on the leather. When dry rub and brush it well. To Clean Marble. Take verdigris and pumice-stone, well powdered, with lime newly slaked. Mix with soap lees, to the consistence of putty. Put it in a woollen rag, and rub the stains well one way. Wash off with soap and water. Repeat, if not removed. Or, cover the stains with fuller's earth or plaster of Paris, and when dry brush it off. To take Stains out of Silver Plate. Steep the plate in soap lyes for the space of 4 hours; then cover it over with whiting, wet with vinegar, so that it may stick thick upon it, and dry it by a fire; after which, rub off the whiting, pass it over with dry bran, and the spots will not only disappear, but the plate will look exceedingly bright. and To take out Fruit Spots. Let the spotted part of the cloth imbibe a little water without dipping, and hold the part over a lighted common brimstone match at a proper distance. The sulphurous acid gas, which is discharged, soon causes the spots to disappear. Or, wet the spot with chlorine water. [See page 436.] To Clean Gold Lace and Embroidery. For this purpose no alkaline liquors are to be used; for while they clean the gold they corrode the silk, and change or discharge its color. Soap also alters the shade, and even the species of cer tain colors. But spirit of wine may be used without any danger of its injuring either color or quality; and, in many cases, proves as effectual for restoring the lustre of the gold, as the corrosive detergents. But, though spirit of wine is the most innocent material employed for this purpose, it is not in all cases proper. The golden covering may be in some parts worn off; or the base metal, with which it has been alloyed, may be corroded by the air, so as to leave the particles of the gold disunited; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yellow hue, may continue a tolerable color to the whole; so it is apparent that the removal of the tarnish would be prejudicial, and make the lace or embroidery less like gold than it was before. To Remove Spots of Grease from Cloths. Spots of grease may be removed by a diluted solution of potash, but this must be cautiously applied to prevent injury to the cloth. A better way is to lay a piece of brown or blotting-paper over the spot, and pass over it a hot iron. grease is absorbed by the paper. Stains of white wax, which sometimes falls upon clothes from waxcandles, are removed by spirits of turpentine, sulphuric ether, or benzine. The marks of white paint may also be discharged by the above-mentioned agents. To take Mildew out of Linen. The Rub it well with soap; then scrape some fine chalk and rub that also in the linen, lay it on the grass; as it dries, wet it a little, and it will come out after twice doing. [See page 437.] To take out Spots of Ink. As soon as the accident happens, wet the place with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and the best hard white soap. Oxalic acid in weak solution is more active, but must be used cautiously. To take out Stains of Cloth or Silk. Pound French chalk fine, mix with lavenderwater to the thickness of mustard. Put on the stain; rub it soft with the finger or palm of the hand. Put a sheet of blotting and brown paper on the top, and smooth it with an iron, milk-warm. To Remove Grease Spots from Paper. Let the paper stained with grease, wax, oil, or any other fat body, be gently warmed, taking out as much as possible of it by blotting-paper. Dip a small brush in ether or benzine, and draw it gently over both sides of the paper, which must be carefully kept warm. Let this operation be repeated as many times as the quantity of the fatbody, imbibed by the paper, or the thickness of the paper may render it necessary. When the greasy substance is removed, to restore the paper to its former whiteness, dip another brush in highly rectified spirit of wine, and draw it, in like manner over the place; and particularly around the edges, to remove the border that would still present a stain. If the process has been employed on a part written on with common ink, or printed with printer's ink, it will experience no alteration. Another. Scrape finely some pipe-clay (the quantity will be easily determined on making the experiment); on this lay the sheet or leaf, and cover the spot, in like manner, with the clay. Cover the whole with a sheet of paper, and apply, for a few seconds, a heated iron-box, or any substitute adopted by laundresses. On using Indian rubber, to remove the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will be found restored to its original whiteness and opacity. This simple method has often proved much more effectual than turpentine, and was remarkably so, in an instance, where the folio of a ledger had exhibited the marks of candle- | It may be applied with a soft sponge or a piece grease and the snuff for more than 12 months. To Cleanse Gloves. of cloth. To Clean Straw Hats. Rub the soiled straw with a cut lemon, and wash Benzine is the best material for cleaning gloves. off the juice with water. Stiffen with gum-water DYEING, in all its Varieties. PRELIMINARY REMARKS. The art of dyeing has for its object the fixing permanently of a color of a definite shade upon stuffs. The stuffs are animal, as silk, wool, and feathers, or vegetable, as cotton and linen. The former take the colors much more readily, and they are more brilliant. In some cases, as in dyeing silk and wool with coal-tar colors, the color at once unites with the fiber; generally, however, a process of preparation is necessary. In certain other cases, as in dyeing silk and wool yellow by nitric acid, the color is due to a change in the stuff, and is not properly dyeing. Insoluble colors are managed by taking advantage of known chemical changes; thus chromate of lead (chrome yellow) is precipitated by dipping the stuff into solutions, first of acetate of lead, and then of bichromate of potassa. Mordants (bindermittle, middle binder of the Germans) are bodies which, by their attraction for organic matter, adhere to the fibre of the stuff, and also to the coloring matter. They are applied first; but in domestic dyeing they are often mixed with the dye-stuff. By the use of a mordant, a dye which would wash out is rendered permanent. Some mordants modify the color; thus alum brightens madder, giving a light-red, while iron darkens it, giving a purple. MORDANTS. The principal mordants are alum, cubic-alum, acetate of alumina, protochloride of tin, bichloride of tin, sulphate of iron, acetate of iron, tannin, stannate of soda. DYE-STUFFS. The materials used in dyeing are numerous; the following are the most important: Madder, indigo, logwood, quercitron or oak-bark, Brazilwood, sumach, galls, weld, annato, turmeric, al. kanet, red saunders, litmus or archil, cudbear, cochineal, lac; and the following mineral substances: ferrocyanide of potassium, bichromate of potash, cream of tartar, lime-water, and verdigris. Coal-tar Colors Are made under patents, and on the large scale. The receipts for their manufacture will, therefore, not be given; in many cases, indeed, they are kept secret. Especial instructions as to their use will be found at the end of the article. Other Materials. A bath of cow's dung is used after mordanting vegetable fibres, to remove the excess of mordant. A solution of silicate of soda has been lately used as a substitute. Albumen, or gluten, is used to thicken the colors for printing, and sometimes to fix them. The colors are incorporated with the albumen applied to the stuff. By exposure to heat the albumen is soagulated and the color fixed. Silicate of Soda, as a Means of Fixing Mordants. The use of silicate of soda in calico printing has the advantage of rendering the colors deeper than when the dung-bath alone is used. In reference to the action of this salt, it is worthy of remark that alkaline silicates exist in cow-dung, which, according to Rogers, contains 17.5 per cent. of solid substance, 15 per cent. of this ash; so that the fresh dung contains 2.6 per cent. of ash, and the ash contains 62.5 per cent. of silica. A large portion of this silica is in the insoluble condition, but the quantity of soluble silica is not inconsiderable. The soluble portion of the ash amounts to 38 per cent., and of this 12 per. cent. is silica, and 10 per cent. potash and soda. There is, therefore, reason for regarding silicate of soda as the efficient ingredient of cow-dung. Alum, Used as mordant for silk and wool, is then dissolved in water. If it contain iron, reds will be injured. It is a sulphate of alumina combined with sulphate of potassa or ammonia. The alulumina is the active mordant. Ammonia alum may be distinguished from potash alum by adding a little caustic potash to the powder; if ammonia exist it will be given off, and may be easily recognized by its pungent smell. Cubic Alum Is much used. It is made by adding carbonate of soda to alum until the precipitate, at first thrown down, is re-dissolved. If too much be added a permanent precipitate will be formed. It yields its alumina much more readily to organic matter than common alum. Acetate of Alumina. Used for COTTON and LINEN. When heated the acetic acid is driven off, and the alumina remains in the fibre. It is made by adding a solution of acetate (sugar) of lead to a solution of alum as long as any precipitate is formed; or take 8 lbs. alum, 6 lbs. sugar of lead; dissolve each in 2 galls. of boiling water. Mix and allow to settle. Bichloride of Tin (Salt of Tin, Nitromuriate of Tin). Take 4 lbs. of commercial nitric acid, lb. sal ammoniac; put it in a stone vessel, and add lb. of pure granulated tin; or dissolve granulated tin in a mixture of 2 parts muriatic to as long as any is taken up. Protochloride of Tin. of nitric acid Dissolve granulated tin in hot muriatic acid as long as any is taken up. Cream of tartar is generally added to the alum and tin bath. Copperas. Used for dyeing dark shades in wool. It is made by dissolving clean iron in dilute sulphuric acid and crystallizing. An inferior kind is made from pyrites. It contains iron in the form of protoxide. On exposure to the air, however, more oxygen is taken up, and, as in the case of all the salts of the protoxide of iron, sesquioxide is formed. This is a powerful mordant, as may be seen by the tenacity with which iron mould adheres to stuffs. Acetate of Iron The first of these methods is usually followed by dyeing cotton and linen; the second in dyeing wool and silk. In the dyeing of wool, woad and bran are com Is made by dissolving iron scraps in acetic or py-monly employed as vegetable ferments, and lime roligneous acid. It is preferred for dyeing vegeta ble fibres. The Dye of Madder. For a madder red on woolens, the best quantity of madder is of the weight of the woollens that are to be dyed; the best proportion of salts to be used, is 5 parts of alum and 1 of red tartar, for 16 parts of the stuff. A variation in the proportions of the salts, wholly alters the color that the madder naturally gives. If the alum is lessened, and the tartar increased, the dye proves a red cinnamon. If the alum be entirely omitted, the red wholly disappears, and a durable tawny cinnamon is produced. If woollens are boiled in weak pearlash and water, the greater part of the color is destroyed. A solution of soap discharges part of the color, and leaves the remaining more beautiful. Volatile alkalies heighten the red color of the madder, but they make the dye fugitive. To Dye Wool and Woollen Cloths of a Blue Color. Dissolve 1 part of indigo in 4 parts of concentrated sulphuric acid; to the solution add 1 part of dry carbonate of potass, and then dilute it with 8 times its weight of water. The cloth must be boiled for an hour in a solution containing 5 parts of alum and 3 of tartar, for every 32 parts of cloth. It is then to be thrown into a waterbath, previously prepared, containing a greater or smaller proportion of diluted sulphate of indigo, according to the shade which the cloth is intended to receive. In this bath it must be boiled till it has acquired the wished-for color. The only coloring matters employed in dyeing blue, are woad and indigo. Indigo has a very strong affinity for wool, silk, cotton, and linen. Every kind of cloth, therefore, may be dyed with it without the assistance of any mordant whatever. The color thus induced is very permanent. But indigo can only be applied to cloth in a state of solution, and the only solvent known is sulphuric acid. The sulphate of indigo is often used to dye wool and silk blue, and is known by the name of saxon blue. It is not the only solution of that pigment employed in dyeing. By far the most common method is, to deprive indigo of its blue color and reduce it to green, and then to dissolve it in water by means of alkalies. Two different methods are employed for this purpose. The first is, to mix with indigo a solution of green oxide of iron, and different metallic sulphurets. If therefore indigo, lime, and green sulphate of iron are mixed together in water, the indigo gradually loses its blue color, becomes green, and is dissolved. The second method is, to mix the indigo in water with certain vegetable substances which readily undergo fermentation; the indigo is dissolved by means of quicklime or alkali, which is added to the solution. as the solvent of the green base of the indigo. Woad itself contains a coloring matter precisely similar to indigo; and by following the common process, indigo may be extracted from it. In the usual state of woad when purchased by the dyer, the indigo which it contains is probably not far from the state of green pollen. Its quantity in woad is but small, and it is mixed with a great proportion of other vegetable matter. When the cloth is first taken out of the vat, it is of a green color; but it soons becomes blue. It ought to be carefully washed, to carry off the uncombined particles. This solution of indigo is liable to two inconveniences: first, it is apt sometimes to run too fast into the putrid fermentation; this may be known by the putrid vapors which it exhales, and by the disappearance of the green color. In this state it would soon destroy the indigo altogether. The inconvenience is remedied by adding more lime, which has the property of sometimes the fermentation goes on too anguidly. moderating the putrescent tenden Secondly, woad, in order to diminish the proportion of thick This defect is remedied by adding more bran or lime. To make Chemic Blue and Green. Chemic for light blues and greens, on silk, cotton or woollen, and for cleaning and whitening cottons, is made by the following process: Take 1 lb. of the best oil of vitriol, which pour upon 1 oz. of the best indigo, well pounded and sifted; add to this after it has been well stirred, a small lump of common pearlash as big as a pea, or from that to the size of 2 peas; this will immediately raise a great fermentation, and cause cles than otherwise. As soon as this fermentation the indigo to dissolve in minuter and finer particeases, put it into a bottle tightly corked, and it may be used the next day. Observe, if more than used, it will deaden and sully the color. the quantity prescribed of pearlash should be only adding one-fourth more of the oil of vitriol Chemic for green, as above for blue, is made by To Discharge Colors. The dyers generally put all colored silks which are to be discharged, into a copper in which a lb. or 1 lb. of white soap has been dissolved. They are then boiled off, and when the copper begins to be too full of color, the silks are taken out and rinsed in warm water. In the interim a fresh solution of soap is to be added to the copper, and then proceed as before till all the color is discharged. For those colors that are wanted to bo effectually discharged, such as greys, cinnamons, For slate colors, greenish drabs, olive drabs, etc., etc., when soap does not do, tartar must be used. oil of vitriol in warm water must be used; if other colors, alum must be boiled in the copper, then cooled down and the silks entered and boiled off, recollecting to rinse them before they are again dyed. A small quantity of muriatic acid, diluted in warm water, must be used to discharge some fast colors; the goods must be afterwards well rinsed in warm and cold water to prevent any injury to the stalk. To Discharge Cinnamons, Grays, etc., when Dyed Take some tartar, pounded in a mortar, sift it into a bucket, then pour over it some boiling water. The silks, etc., may then be run through the clear |