est of this liquor, which will discharge the color; but if the dye does not take on again evenly, more tartar may be added, and the goods run through as before.

To Re-Dye or Change the Color of Garments, etc.

The change of color depends upon the ingredients with which the garments have been dyed. Sometimes when these have been well cleaned, more dyeing stuff must be added, which will afford the color intended; and sometimes the color already on the cloth must be discharged and the article re-dyed.

Every color in nature will dye black, whether blue, yellow, red, or brown, and black will always dye black again. All colors will take the same color again which they already possess; and blues can be made green or black; green may be made brown, and brown green, and every color on redyeing will take a darker tint than at first.

Yellows, browns, and blues, are not easily discharged; maroons, reds of some kinds, olives, etc., may be discharged.

For maroons, a small quantity of alum may be boiled in a copper, and when it is dissolved, put in the goods, keep them boiling, and probably in a few minutes, enough of it will be discharged to take the color intended.

Olives, grays, etc., are discharged by putting in 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls, more or less, of oil of vitriol; then put in the garment, etc., and boil, and it will become white. If chemie green, either alum, pearlash, or soap will discharge it off to the yellow; this yellow may mostly be boiled off with soap, if it has received a preparation for taking the chemic blue. Muriatic acid used at a hand heat will discharge most colors. A black may be dyed maroon, claret, green, or a dark brown; and it often happens that black is dyed claret, green, or dark brown; but green is the principal color into which black is changed.

To Alum Silks.

Silk should be alumed cold, for when it is alumed hot, it is deprived of a great part of its lustre. The alum liquor should always be strong for silks, as they take the dye more readily afterwards. To Dye Silk Blue.

Silk is dyed light blue by a ferment of 6 parts of bran, 6 of indigo, 6 of potassa, and 1 of madder. To dye it of a dark blue, it must previously receive what is called a ground color; a red dyestuff, called archil, is used for this purpose.

Prussian Blue.

A mordant is prepared of nitrate of iron, 1 pt.; 8 oz. of bichloride of tin crystals, oz. of oil of vitriol, and 10 galls. of water. Another liquid is prepared by dissolving 4 oz. of red or yellow prussiate of potash, according to the shade desired. The silks are to be alternately handled in these for 10 minutes, 6 times. After each handling they are washed in cream of tartar water.

To Dye Cotton and Linen Blue. Cotton and linen are dyed blue by a solution of 1 part of indigo, 1 part of green sulphate of iron, and 2 parts of quicklime.

Yellow Dyes.

The principal coloring matters for dyeing yellow, are weld, fustic, and quercitron bark. Yellow coloring matters have too weak an affinity for cloth, to produce permanent colors without the use of mordants. Cloth, therefore, before it is dyed yellow, is always prepared by soaking it in alumina. Oxide of tin is sometimes used when very fine yellows are wanting. Tan is often em

ployed as subsidiary to alumina, and in order to fix it more copiously on cotton and linen. Tartar is also used as an auxiliary, to brighten the color; and muriate of soda, sulphate of lime, and even sulphate of iron, to render the shade deeper. The yellow dye by means of fustic is more perma nent, but not so beautiful as that given by weld, or quercitron. As it is permanent, and not much injured by acids, it is often used in dyeing compound colors, where a yellow is required. The

mordant is alumina. When the mordant is oxide of iron, fustic dyes a good permanent drab color. kind of color; but the bark yields coloring matWeld and quercitron bark yield nearly the same ter in greater abundance and is cheaper than weld. The method of using each of these dye-stuffs is nearly the same.

To Dye Woollens Yellow.

Wool may be dyed yellow by the following process; let it be boiled for an hour, or more, with above 1-6 of its weight of alum, dissolved in a sufficient quantity of water as a mordant. It is then to be plunged, without being rinsed, into a bath of warm water, containing as much quercitron bark as equals the weight of the alum employed as a mordant. The cloth is to be turned through the boiling liquid, till it has acquired the intended color. Then, a quantity of clean powdered chalk, equal to the 100th part of the weight of the cloth, is to be stirred in, and the operation of dyeing continued for 8 or 10 minutes longer. By this method a pretty deep and lively yellow may be given.

For very bright orange, or golden yellow, it is necessary to use the oxide of tin as a mordant. For producing bright golden yellows, some alum must be added along with the tin. To give the yellow a delicate green shade, tartar must be added in different proportions, according to the

shade.

To Dye Silks Yellow.

Silk may be dyed of different shades of yellow, either by weld or quercitron bark, but the last is be from 1 to 2 parts of bark, to 12 parts of silk, the cheapest of the two. The proportion should according to the shade. The bark, tied up in a bag, should be put in the dyeing vessel, whilst the water which it contains is cold; and when it has acquired the heat of about 100°, the silk, having been previously alumed, should be dipped in, and continued, till it has assumed the wished-for color. When the shade is required to be deep, a little chalk or pearlash should be added towards the end of the operation. Silk and wool may be dyed a fine yellow by picric acid; 15 grains will color 2 lbs. of silk. No mordant is necessary. Various shades may be obtained by using solutions of different strength.

To Dye Cottons and Linens Yellow.

The mordant should be acetate of alumina, prepared by dissolving 1 part of acetate of lead, and 3 parts of alum, in a sufficient quantity of water. This solution should be heated to the temperature of 100°, the cloth should be soaked in it for 2 hours, then wrung out and dried. The soaking may be repeated, and the cloth again dried as before. It is then to be barely wetted with limewater, and afterwards dried. The soaking in the acetate of alumina may be again repeated; and if the shade of yellow is required to be very bright and durable, the alternate wetting with limewater and soaking in the mordant may be repeated 3 or 4 times.

The dyeing-bath is prepared by putting 12 or 18 parts of quercitron bark (according to the depth

of the shade required), tied up in a bag, into a sufficient quantity of cold water. Into this bath the cloth is to be put, and turned in it for an hour, while its temperature is gradually raised to about 120°. It is then to be brought to a boiling heat, and the cloth allowed to remain in it only for a few minutes. If it is kept long at a boiling heat, the yellow acquires a shade of brown.

Golden (Chrome) Yellow on Cotton. Heat till boiling, stirring all the time, 8 oz. sugar of lead, 164 oz. litharge, 3 galls. of water. Keep boiling about 10 minutes; leave to settle, decant, and while warm, handle carefully in it the bleached cotton. When the cotton is thoroughly impregnated with the subacetate of lead of the bath, dry it by a gentle heat, and handle it in a bath of 84 oz. bichromate of potassa and 4 oz. of nitric acid. Wash well with warm water. Afterwards dip it into a bath of 2 drs. saffron to 1 qt. of strong alcohol, until the desired tint is acquired.-Ulrich.

COAL-TAR AND OTHER NEW COLORS. Coal-tar colors are made from aniline, carbolic or phenic acid and naphthaline, bodies obtained directly or indirectly from the distillation of coal. The following, among others, have been obtained from aniline, aniline purple, violine, rosein, bleu de Paris, magenta, mauve, fuchsine, Tyrian purple, night blue, aniline black, emeraldine. These may be divided into two groups: the reds as magenta, made by the action of bichlorides of carbon, tin or mercury on aniline, and the purples as mauve, made by the action of oxidizing agents, as bichromate of potassa.

Picric acid is obtained by the action of nitric acid upon phenic acid, the coal-tar creasote; it is a fine yellow. Artificial alzarin, carminaphtha, etc., obtained frem naphthaline, are not employed practically in dyeing.

Chrysammic acid is made by the action of nitric acid on aloes; it gives blues, purples and greens, which are very solid.

Chinese Green, apparently identical with the lo-kao, is obtained from the bark of the Rhamnus catharticns (Buckthorn).

Murexide, a splendid purple, is obtained from guano by the action of nitric acid. It has been displaced by the aniline purples.

Molybdate of ammonia gives a magnificent and permanent blue to silks.

To Dye Silk and Wool with Coal-tar Colors. Silk and wool can be dyed with all these colors, except the roseolates. Many of them, as aniline purple and violine, are taken from their solutions so perfectly as to leave the menstruum colorless. The coloring matters are generally dissolved in alcohol; for silks, this is diluted with eight times its bulk of hot water, slightly acidulated with tartaric acid; this is poured into the dye-bath, which consists of cold water, slightly acidulated. For wool, the solutions are cold, and acids are to be avoided as much as possible, as the colors are not so fine when they are used.

Red Dyes. The coloring matters employed for dyeing red are archil, madder, carthamus, kermes, cochineal,

and Brazil-wood.

To Dye Woollens Red, Crimson, and Scarlet. Coarse woollen stuffs are dyed red with madder or archil, but fine cloth is almost exclusively dyed with cochineal, though the color which it receives from kermes is much more durable. Brazil-wood is scarcely used, except as an auxiliary,

because the color which it imparts to wool is not permanent.

Wood is died crimson, by first impregnating it with alumine by means of an alum bath, and then boiling it in a decoction of cochineal till it has acquired the wished-for color. The crimson will be finer if the tin-mordant is substituted for alum; indeed, it is usual with dyers to add a little bichloride when they want fine crimsons. The addition of archil and potass to the cochineal both renders the crimson darker and gives it more bloom, but the bloom very soon vanishes. For paler crimsons, one-half of the cochineal is withdrawn, and madder substituted in its place.

Wool may be died scarlet by first boiling it in a solution of protochloride of tin, then dyeing it pale yellow with quercitron bark, and afterwards crimson with cochineal. for scarlet is a compound color, consisting of crimson mixed with a little yellow.

To Carry the Color into the Body of the Cloth.

Make the moistened cloth pass through between rollers placed within at the bottom of the dye-vat, the dye-vat, and being strongly compressed by the so that the web passing from one windlass through rollers in its passage to another windlass, all the remaining water is driven out, and is re-placed by the coloring liquid, so as to receive color into its very centre. The winding should be continued backwards and forwards from one windlass to the other, and through the rolling-press, till the dye is of sufficient intensity.

To Dye Silks Red, Crimson, etc. Silk is usually dyed red with cochineal or carthamus, and sometimes with Brazil-wood. Kermes does not answer for silk; madder is scarcely ever used for that purpose, because it does not yield a color bright enough. Archil is employed to give silk a bloom, but it is scarcely ever used by itself, unless when the color wanted is lilac.

Silk may be ayed crimson by steeping it in a solution of alum, and then dyeing it in the usual way in a cochineal bath.

The colors known by the names of poppy, cherry, rose, and flesh-color, are given to silk by means of carthamus. The process consists merely in keeping the silk as long as it extracts any color in an alkaline solution of carthamus, into which as much lemon-juice as gives it a fine cherry-red color, has been poured.

Silk cannot be dyed a full scarlet, but a color approaching to scarlet may be given to it by first impregnating the stuff with protochloride of tin, and afterwards dyeing it in a bath composed of 4 parts of cochineal and 4 parts of quercitron bark. To give the color more body, both the mordant and the dye may be repeated.

A color approaching to scarlet may be given to silk by first dyeing it in crimson, then dyeing it with carthamus, and lastly yellow, without heat. To Dye Linens and Cottons Red, Scarlet, etc.

Cotton and linen are dyed red with madder. The process was borrowed from the East; hence the color is often called Adrianople, or Turkeyred. The cloth is first impregnated with oil, then with galls, and lastly with alum. It is then boiled for an hour in a decoction of madder, which is commonly mixed with a quantity of blood. After the cloth is dyed it is plunged into a soda lye, in order to brighten the color. The red given by this process is very permanent, and when properly conducted it is exceedingly beautiful. The whole difficulty consists in the application of the mordant, which is by far the most complicated employed in the whole art of dyeing.

orange, gold color, feuille-mort or faded leaf, dead carnations, cinnamon, fawn and tobacco, by using 2 or 3 of the colors as required.

From yellow, red and black, browns of every

shade are made.

From blue and yellow, greens of all shades. From red and blue, purples of all kinds are formed.

To Dye Different Shades of Green. Green is distinguishable by dyers into a variety of shades, according to the depth, or the prevalence of either of the component parts. Thus we have sea-green, grass-green, pea-green, etc.

Wool, silk, and linen, are usually dyed green by giving them first a blue color, and afterwards dyeing them yellow. When the yellow is first given, several inconveniences follow; the yellow partly separates again in the blue vat, and communicates a green color to it, thus rendering it useless for every other purpose except dyeing green. Any of the usual processes for dyeing blue and yellow may be followed, taking care to proportion the depth of the shades to that of the green required.

When sulphate of indigo is employed, it is usual to mix all the ingredients together, and to dye the cloth at once; this produces what is known by the name of Saxon or English green.

To Dye Violet, Purple and Lilac.

until it be thoroughly softened. Wash the goods, so dunged. extremely well in water. Take a quantity of madder, or logwood, or sumach, or all of them mixed together, as the strength of the eloth and nature of the color may require, and put them into a copper or tub of hot water, then enter the goods before mentioned in this liquor, and keep rinsing or moving them therein until they are brought up to the strength of color required. Have the goods again well washed and dried. For dyeing black, it will be proper to pass the goods a second time through the above operation, adding more or less of the dyeing-woods as before. If after the above operations the shade of color is too full, or too much upon the red hue, it will be necessary to give them a little sumach, and then run them through a liquor made from iron and owler, or alder-bark.

Another Method.

Take common iron liquor, and add 3 of a lb. of

fine flour, and by boiling bring it to the consistency linseed, or gum, or all of them mixed together, of a thin paste; or instead of flour, add glue or the goods through the machine, and follow the till it is brought to a proper thickness. Then pass before-mentioned operations.

To Dye Olives, Bottle-greens, Purples, Browns, Cinnamons or Snuffs.

means of oxide of iron.

To Dye Olive, Orange and Cinnamon. When blue is combined with red and yellow on cloth, the resulting color is olive. Wool may be dyed orange by first dyeing it scarlet and then yellow. When it is dyed first with madder, the

result is a cinnamon color.

Silk is dyed orange by means of carthamus; a cinnamon color by logwood, Brazil-wood and fustic, mixed together.

Cotton and linen receive a cinnamon color by means of weld and madder, and an olive color by being passed through a blue, yellow, and then a madder bath.

To Dye Gray, Drab and Dark Brown. If cloth is previously mordanted with iron, and afterwards dyed yellow with quercitron bark, the result will be a drab of different shades, according to the proportion of mordant employed. When the proportion is small, the color inclines to olive, or yellow; on the contrary, the drab may be deepened, or saddened, as the dyers term it, by mixing a little sumach with the bark.

To Dye a Black upon Cotton, Linen and Mixed Goods.

Take tar iron liquor of the very best quality; add to each gall. thereof of a lb. of fine flour, and boil it to the consistency of a thin paste. Put the liquor or paste above-mentioned into a tub belonging to a machine used in the process. The goods intended to be dyed are wound upon a roller, and passed through the liquor or paste, betwixt the two rollers; thereby completely staining or dyeing the whole mass or body of the cloth. Pass them into a very hot stove or drying-house till dry, then take cow's dung, put it into a large copper of water about scalding hot, and mix it well together, through which pass the piece of cloth

according to the shade of color wanted, made into a paste or liquid by adding flour, gum, glue, linseed, or one or more of them as before. Then put the liquor or paste above mentioned into a tub intended to be dyed through the machine. Take belonging to the machine, and pass the goods so them from the machine, and hang them up in a very cool room, where they are to remain till thoroughly dry. Take cow's dung, put it into a large copper of hot water, and mix it well together; through which pass the cloth or goods until thoroughly softened, the quantity of dung and time required being proportioned as before.

The goods after this process being well washed, take a quantity of liquor made from madder, logwood, sumach, fustic, Brazil-wood, quercitron bark, peach-wood, or other woods, to produce the color wanted, or more of them; and if necessary dilute this liquor with water, according to the shade or fulness of color wanted to be dyed. Then work the goods through this liquor; after which pass them through cold or warm water, according to the color, the proper application of which is well known to dyers, adding a little alum, copperas or Roman vitriol, or two or more of them, first dissolved in water. Then wash them off in warm water and dry them. But if the color is not sufficiently full, repeat the same operations till it is brought to the shade required.

To Dye Crimson, Red, Orange, or Yellow. Take red liquor, such as is generally made from alum, and dilute it with water according to the strength or shade of color wanted to dye, bringing it to the consistency of a paste or liquid, as before described. Then pass the cloth through the machine; which being dried in a cool room, pass it through the operations of dunging and washing as before. Take a quantity of liquor, made from cochineal, madder, peach-wood, Brazil, logwood, woad, fustic, sumach, or any two or more of them proportioned in strength to the shade or color wanted to dye, and work the goods through this liquor till they are brought to the shade of color required; after which wash them in cold or warm water, and dry them.

Chevreul's Mode of Graduating Shades of Color | from Prussian Blue,

Impregnate each parcel of silk to be dyed with a different proportion of the oxide of iron by immersing it in a solution, the strength of which has been regulated accordingly. For the deeper tones of color employ the acetate, and for the others the chloride or sulphate. After having properly rinsed (in separate water) each parcel, it is to be dipped into distinct baths of the prussiate of potash, the quantity of which has been made to correspond with the quantity of oxide of iron previously united to it. With these precautions all the desired shades may be obtained. Those which are light and have a greenish cast should be well washed in river water, which will soon produce the blue in its purity. If this does not happen, a very weak solution of muriatic acid will produce the effect to a certainty.

To Dye Wool a Permanent Blue Color. Take 4 oz. of the best Indigo, reduce it to a very fine powder, and add 12 lbs. of wool in the grease; put the whole into a copper large enough to contain all the wool to be dyed. As soon as the requisite color is obtained, let the wool be well washed and dried. The liquor remaining may be again used to produce lighter blues. The color will be as beautiful and permanent as the finest blue produced by woad, and the wool, by this method, will lose less in weight than if it had been previously scoured.

To Dye Silks and Satins Brown in the small way. Fill the copper with river-water, when it gently boils put in lb. of chipped fustic, 2 oz. of madder, 1 oz. of sumach, and oz. of cam-wood; but if not required to be so red, the cam-wood may be omitted. These should boil at least from an hour to 2 hours, that the ingredients may be well incorporated. The copper must then be cooled down by pouring in cold water; the goods may then be put in, and simmered gently from an hour to 1 hour. If this color should appear to want darkening or saddening, it may be done by taking out the goods, and adding a small quantity of old black liquor; a small piece of green copperas may be used; rinse in 2 or 3 waters, and hang up to dry.

To Dye Silks of Fawn-color Drabs. Boil 1 oz. of fustic, oz. of alder bark, and 2 drs. of archil. From 1 to 2 drs. of the best crop madder must be added to a very small quantity of old black liquor, if it be required darker.

To Dye a Silk Shawl Scarlet. First dissolve 2 oz. of white soap in boiling water, handle the shawl through this liquor, now and then rubbing such places with the hands as may appear dirty, till it is as clean as this water will make it. A second, or even a third liquor may be used, if required, the shawl must be rinsed out in warm water.

Then take oz. of the best Spanish anatto. and dissolve it in hot water; pour this solution into a pan of warm water, and handle the shawl through this for of an hour; then take it out and rinse it in clean water. In the meanwhile dissolve a piece of alum of the size of a horse-bean in warm water, and let the shawl remain in this an hour; take it out and rinse it in clear water. Then boil oz. of the best cochineal for 20 minutes, dip it out of the copper into a pan, and let the shawl remain in this from 20 minutes to an hour, which will make it a full blood red. Then take out the shawl, and add to the liquor in the pan 1 qt. more of that out of the copper, if there is as much re

maining, and about a small wineglassful of the solution of tin; when cold; rinse it slightly but in spring-water.

To Dye a Silk Shawl Crimson.

Take about 1 tablespoonful of cud-bear, put it into a small pan, pour boiling water upon it, stir and let it stand a few minutes, then put in the silk, and turn it over a short time, and when the color is full enough take it out; but if it should require more violet or crimson, add 1 or 2 spoonfuls of purple archil to some warm water; and dry it within doors. To finish it, it must be mangled or calendered, and may be pressed, if such a convenience is at hand.

To Dye Silk Lilac.

For every pound of silk take 14 lbs. of archil, mix it well with the liquor; make it boil of an hour, dip the silk quickly, then let it cool, and wash it in river-water, and a fine violet or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.

To Dye thick Silks, Satins, Silk Stockings, etc., of a Flesh-color.

then rinse them in hot water; if they should not Wash the stockings clean in soap and water, into thin slices, and put it into a saucepan halfthen appear perfectly clear, cut oz. of white soap full of boiling water; when this soap is dissolved, ings, and simmer for 20 minutes; take them out, cool the water in the pan, then put in the stockand rinse in hot water; in the interim pour 3 tablespoonfuls of purple archil into a washhandbasin half full of hot water; put the stockings in this dye-water, and when of the shade called half violet or lilac, take them from the dye-water, and slightly rinse them in cold; when dry hang them up in a close room in which sulphur is burnt; when they are evenly bleached to the shade required of flesh-color, take them from the sulphuring-room, and finish them by rubbing the right side with a clean flannel. Some persons calender them afterwards. Satins and silks are done the same way.

To Dye Silk Stockings Black.

These are dyed like other silks, excepting that they must be steeped a day or two in black liquor, before they are put into the black silk dye. At first they will look like an iron gray; but, to finish and black them, they must be put on wooden legs, laid on a table, and rubbed with the oily rubber or flannel, upon which is oil of olives, and then the more they are rubbed the better. pair of stockings will require a tablespoonful of oil, at least, and an hour's rubbing, to finish them well. Sweet oil is the best in this process, as it leaves no disagreeable smell.

Each

To Dye Straw and Chip Bonnets Black. Chip hats being composed of the shavings of wood, are stained black in various ways. First, by being boiled in strong logwood liquor 3 or 4 hours; they must be often taken out to cool in the air, and now and then a small quantity of green copperas must be added to the liquor, and this continued for several hours. The saucepan or kettle that they are dyed in may remain with the bonnets in it all night; the next morning they must be taken out and dried in the air, and brushed with a soft brush. Lastly, a sponge is dipped in oil, and squeezed almost to dryness; with this the bonnets are rubbed all over, both inside and out, and then sent to the blockers to be blocked. Others boil them in logwood; and instead of green copperas, use steel filings steeped in vinegar; after which they are ânished as above.