Wash the hands in soap and water in which some pearlash is dissolved, or wash in a paste of chloride of lime. To Dye Black Cloth Green, Clean the cloth well with bullock's gall and water, and rinse in warm water; then make a copper full of river water, boiling hot, and take from 1 to 14 lbs. of fustic; put it in, and boil it 20 minutes, to which add a lump of alum of the size of a walnut; when this is dissolved in the copper, put in the coat, and boil it 20 minutes; then take it out, and add a small wineglass, three parts full, of chemic blue, and boil again from an hour to 1 hour, and the cloth will be a beautiful dark-green; then wash out and dry. To Dye Cotton with Coal-tar Colors. The cotton is soaked in a decoction of galls, sumach, or other astringent matter, for an hour or two, then passed into a weak solution of stannate of soda, and worked in it for about an hour. It is then wrung out in a dilute acid liquor and rinsed in water. Cotton thus prepared is of a pale yellow color. The stannate of soda may be applied before the tannin, or alum may be substituted for it. The prepared cotton is immersed in a bath of the color slightly acidulated and worked. It will absorb all the coloring matter in time, leaving the bath colorless. Picric and rosalic acids are not adapted for dyeing cotton. CALICO PRINTING. This art consists in dyeing cloth with certain colors and figures upon a ground of a different hue; the colors, when they will not take hold of cloth readily, being fixed to them by means of mordants, as a preparation of alum, made by dissolving 3 lbs. of alum and 1 lb. of acetate of lead in 8 lbs. of warm water. There are added at the same time 2 oz. of potash, and 2 oz. of chalk. Acetate of iron, also, is a mordant in frequent use in the printing of calicoes; but the simple mixture of alum and acetate of lead is found to answer best as a mordant. To Apply the Mordants. The mordants are applied to the cloth, either with a pencil or by means of blocks, or rollers, on which the pattern, according to which the cotton is to be printed, is cut. As they are applied only to particular parts of the cloth, care must be taken that none of them spread to the part of the cloth which is to be left white, and that they do not interfere with each other when several are applied; it is necessary, therefore, that the mordants should be of such a degree of consistence, that they will not spread beyond those parts of the cloth on which they are applied. This is done by thickening them with flour or starch, when they are to be applied by the block, and with gum arabic when they are to be put on with the pencil. The thickening should never be greater than is sufficient to prevent the spreading of the mordants; when carried too far, the cotton is apt not to be sufficiently saturated with the mordants, and of course the dye takes but imperfectly. In order that the parts of the cloth impregnated with mordants may be distinguished by their color, it is usual to tinge the mordants with some coloring matter. The printers commonly use the decoction of Brazil-wood for this purpose. After the mordants have been applied, the cloth must be completely dried. It is proper for this purpose to employ heat, which will contribute towards the separation of the acetic acid from its base, and towards its evaporation; by which means the mordant will combine in a greater proportion, and more intimately with the cloth. When the cloth is sufficiently dried, it is to be washed with warm water and cow-dung, till the flour or gum employed to thicken the mordants, and all those parts of the mordants which are uncombined with the cloth, are removed. After this the cloth is to be thoroughly rinsed in clean water. Dye-stuffs. Almost the only dye-stuffs employed by calicoprinters are indigo, madder, quercitron bark, or weld, and coal-tar colors; but weld is little used, except for delicate greenish yellows. The quercitron bark gives colors equally good; and is much cheaper and more convenient, not requiring so great a heat to fix it. Indigo, not requiring any mordant, is commonly applied at once, either by a block or by a pencil. It is prepared by boiling together indigo and potash, made caustic by quicklime and orpiment; the solution is afterwards thickened with gum. It must be carefully excluded from the air, otherwise the indigo would soon be regenerated, which would render the solution useless. Dr. Bancroft has proposed to substitute coarse brown sugar for orpiment; it is equally efficacious in decomposing the indigo, and rendering it soluble; while it likewise serves all the purposes of gum. Some calicoes are only printed of one color, others have two, and others three or more, even to the number of 8, 10, or 12. The smaller the number of colors, the fewer in general are the processes. New Process to Separate the Red Coloring Principle of Madder. For this purpose 3 tubs are necessary, say, A, B, C. The first, or A, sufficient for 55 lbs. of madder, is to be 2 feet 8 inches deep, and 2 feet 6 in diameter. The second, or B, is 54 feet high and 3 feet in diameter. This tub is to be furnished with 3 cocks, the first placed at 2, the second at 3, and the third at 4 feet above its bottom. A serves as a fermenting tub; B, a washing vessel; and C, as a deposit. These tubs are placed near to each other, in the summer, in the open air, under a shed; in the winter, in a cellar kept at from 66° to 70°. To coth mence the process, put from 50 to 55 lbs. of ground madder into A, and add water, stirring the mixture continually, until the madder, when at rest, is covered with an inch and a half of water. In 36 or 48 hours (being at rest) fermentation takes place and raises a crust of madder to the surface. The mass is now to be transferred to the second tub or B, which is then to be filled with water, where it is to repose for 2 hours The uppermost cock is then opened, next the under one, and lastly the third. The liquor collected from the second and third cocks is carried to the tub C, where the precipitation of the madder that escaped from B, is completed. You may make repeated washings of the madder in B, until the water ceases to be colored. Care should be taken in summer to prevent the madder from fermenting a second time. The madder in C being washed and precipitated, is equally good with the other. To Print Yellow. For yellow, the block is besmeared with acetate of alumina. The cloth, after receiving this mordant, is dyed with quercitron bark, and is then bleached. Nankeen Yellow. One of the most common colors on cotton prints, is a kind of Nankeen yellow, of various shades down to a yellowish brown or drab. It is usually in stripes or spots. To produce it, the printers besmear the block, cut out into the figure of the print, with acetate of iron, thickened with gum or flour; and apply it to the cotton, which, after being dried and cleansed in the usual manner, is plunged into a potash lye. The quantity of acetate of iron is always proportioned to the depth of the shade. Red. is cut which is to be of some particular color. These are besmeared with different mordants and applied to the cloth, which is afterwards dyed as usual. Let us suppose, for instance, that these blocks are applied to cotton; one with acetate of alumina, another with acetate of iron, a third with a mixture of those two mordants, and that the cotton is then dyed with quercitron bark and bleached. The parts impregnated with the mordants would have the following colors: Acetate of alumina, yellow; acetate of iron, olive, drab, dove. The mixture, olive green, olive. If the part of the yellow is covered over with the indigo liquor applied with a pencil, it will be converted into green. By the same liquid, blue may be given to such parts of the print as require it. If the cotton is dyed with madder, instead of quercitron bark, the print will exhibit the following colors: Acetate of alumina, red: acetate of iron, brown, Red is communicated by the same process, only black. The mixture, purple. madder is substituted for the bark. Blue. The fine light blues which appear so frequently on printed cottons, are produced by applying to the cloth a block besmeared with a composition, consisting partly of wax, which covers all those parts of the cloth which remain white. The cloth is then dyed in a cold indigo vat; and after it is dry, the wax composition is removed by hot water. Lilac and Brown. Lilac, flea brown, and blackish brown, are given by means of acetate of iron; the quantity of which is always proportioned to the depth of the shade. For very deep colors a little sumach is added. The cotton is afterwards dyed in the usual manner with madder and then bleached. Green. To 12 qts. of muriatic acid, add by degrees 1 qt. of nitric acid; saturate the whole with grain tin, and boil it in a proper vessel till two-thirds are evaporated. To prepare the indigo for mixing with the solution, take 9 lbs. of indigo, pound of orange orpiment, and grind it in about 4 qts. of water; mix it well with the indigo, and grind it all in the usual way. To Mix the Solution of Tin with Prepared Indigo. Take 2 galls. of the indigo prepared as above; then stir into it, by degrees, 1 gall. of the solution of tin, neutralized by as much caustic alkali as can be added without precipitating the tin from the acids. For a lighter shade of green, less indigo will be necessary. The goods are to be dipped in the way of dipping China blues; they must not, however, be allowed to drain, but moved from one vat to another as quickly as possible. They are to be cleansed in the usual way, in a sour vat of about 150 galls. of water to 1 gall. of sulphuric acid; they are then to be well washed in decoctions of weld, and other yellow color drugs, and are to be branned or bleached till they become white in those parts which are required colorless. To Print Dove-color and Drab. Dove-color and drab are given by acetate of iron and quercitron bark; the cloth is afterwards prepared in the usual manner. To Print different Colors. When different colors are to appear in the same print, a greater number of operations is necessary. Two or more blocks or rollers are employed; upon each of which, that part of the print only When a greater number of colors is to appear -for instance, when those communicated by bark, and those by madder are wanted at the same time mordants for parts of the pattern are to be applied. The cotton then is to be dyed in the madder bath and bleached; then the rest of the mordants to fill up the pattern, are added, and the cloth is again dyed with quercitron-bark, and bleached. The second dyeing does not much affect the madder colors, because the mordants, which render them permanent, are already saturated. The yellow tinge is easily removed by the subsequent bleaching. Sometimes a new mordant is also applied to some of the madder colors; in consequence of which, they receive a new permanent color from the bark. After the last bleaching, new colors may be added by means of the indigo liquor. The following table will give an idea of the colors which may be given to cotton by these processes. I. Madder dye.-Acetate of alumina, red; acetate of iron, brown, black; acetate diluted, lilac. Both mixed, purple. II. Black dye.-Acetate of alumina, yellow; acetate of iron, dove, drab; lilac and acetate of alumina, olive; red and acetate of alumina, orange. III. Indigo dye.-Indigo, blue; indigo and yellow, green. To Print in Coal-tar Colors. The colors are mixed with albumen printed on the fibre; the albumen is then coagulated, and the color thus fixed. Another method consists in printing with tannin on the fabric, previously impregnated with stannate of soda, and then dyeing with a hot, dilute, acid bath. The color on the unmordanted parts, is easily discharged. This preparation is not necessary for silk and wool. To Print Green with Aniline, Print the design with a thickened solution of chlorate of potassa; pass through a solution of an aniline salt; in 2 or 3 days the green color will be developed. It may be changed to darkblue by the use of soap or an alkaline liquid. Another method is to use alternately aniline blue and picric acid. To Prepare a Substitute for Gum Used in Calico Collect a ton weight of scraps of pelts or skins, or pieces of rabbit or sheep-skins, and boil them together for 7 or 8 hours in 350 galis. of water, or until it becomes a strong size. Then draw it off, and when cold weigh it. Warm it again, and to every 1 cwt. add 4 galls. of the strongest sweet wort that can be made from malt or 20 lbs. weight of sugar. When incorporated, take it off and put it into a cask for use. This substitute for gum may be used by calico printers in mixing up nearly all kinds of colors. By using a sixth part only of gum with it, it will also improve the gum. It will also improve and preserve the paste so much used by printers. To Prepare Anatto for dyeing. Anatto is a coloring fecula of a resinous nature, extracted from the seeds of a tree very common in the West Indies, and which in height never exceeds 15 feet. The Indians employ two processes to obtain the red fecula of these seeds. They first pound them and mix them with a certain quantity of water, which in the course of 5 or 6 days favors the progress of fermentation. The liquid then becomes charged with the coloring part, and the superfluous moisture is afterwards separated by slow evaporation over the fire, or by the heat of the sun. The Canary and Cape de Verd islands produce a kind of lichen or moss, which yields a violet coloring part when exposed to the contact of ammonia disengaged from urine, in a state of putrefaction, by a mixture of lime. When the processes are finished, it is known by the name of litmus. This article is prepared on a large scale at London, Paris, and Lyons. In the latter city another kind of lichen, which grows on the rocks like moss, is employed. The ammonia joins the resinous part of the plant, develops its coloring part, and combines with it. In this state the lichen forms a paste of a violet-red color, interspersed with whitish spots, which give it a marble appearance. Litmus is employed in dyeing to communicate a violet color to silk and woollen. It is used also for coloring the liquor of thermometers, and as a tost for acids and alkalies. To Prepare Bastard Saffron. The flowers of this plant contain two coloring parts: one soluble in water, and which is thrown away; the other soluble in alkaline liquors. The latter coloring part becomes the basis of various Deautiful shades of cherry color, ponceau, rose color, etc. It is employed for dyeing feathers, and constitutes the vegetable red, or Spanish vermilion, employed by ladies to heighten their complexion. Carthamus cannot furnish its resinous coloring part, provided with all its qualities, until it has been deprived of that which is soluble in water. For this purpose the dried flowers of the carthamus are enclosed in a linen bag, and the bag is placed in a stream of running water. A man with wooden shoes gets upon the bag every eight or ten hours, and treads it on the bank until the water expressed from it is colorless. These moist flowers, after being strongly squeezed in the bag, are spread out on a piece of canvas extended on a frame, placed over a wooden box, and covered with 5 or 6 per cent. of their weight of carbonate of soda. Pure water is then poured over them; and this process is repeated several times, that the alkali may have leisure to become charged with the coloring part which it dissolves. The liquor, when filtered, is of a dirty red, and almost brown color. The coloring part, thus held in solution, cannot be employed for coloring bodies until it is free; and, to set it at liberty, the soda must be brought into contact with a body which has more affinity for it. It is on this precipitation, by an intermediate substance, that the process for making Spanish vermilion is founded, as well as all the results arising from the direct application of this coloring part, in the art of dyeing. The hats should be first strongly galled by boil ing them a long time in a decoction of galls with a little logwood, that the dye may penetrate the better into their substance; after which a proper quantity of vitriol and decoction of logwood, with a little verdigris, are added, and the hats continued in this mixture for a considerable time. They are afterwards put into fresh liquor of logwood, galls, vitriol, and verdigris; and where the hats are of great price, or of a hair which with difficulty takes the dye, the same process is repeated a third time. For obtaining the most perfect color, the hair or wool is dyed blue previously to its being formed into hats. Another Method. Boil 100 lbs. of logwood, 12 lbs. of gum, and 6 lbs. of galls in a proper quantity of water for some hours; after which about 6 lbs. of verdigris and 10 of green vitriol are added, and the liquor kept just simmering, or of a heat little below boiling. Ten or 12 dozen of hats are immediately put in, each on its block, and kept down by cross-bars for about an hour and a half; they are then taken out and aired, and the same number of others put in their room. The two sets of hats are thus dipped and aired alternately 8 times each; the liquor being refreshed each time with more of the ingredients, but in less quantity than at first. To Prove the Colors of Dyed Stuffs. For crimson, scarlet, flesh-color, violet, peachblossom, all shades of blue, and other colors bordering on these, dissolve half an ounce of alum in a pint of water, in an earthen vessel, and into this put the eighth of an ounce of the stuff or thread that is to be proved; boil the whole for five minutes, and wash it out in clean water. For all sorts of yellow, green madder, red cinnamon, and similar colors, boil a quarter of an ounce of soap in a pint of water, put in the eighth of an ounce of the stuff to be tried, and boil for 5 minutes. For hair-brown, etc. powder an ounce of tartar, and boil it in a pint of water, and boil of an ounce of the stuff or thread in the solution for 5 minutes. the loose dye with a coarse cloth. Beat up the white of an egg, and with a sponge rub it over the leather. The dye will stain the hands; but wetting them with vinegar, before they are washed, will take it off. To Dye Gloves resembling Limerick. Brown or tan colors are readily imparted to leather gloves by the following simple process. Steep saffron in boiling soft water for about 12 hours; then, having slightly sewed up the tops of the gloves, to prevent the dye staining the insides, wet them over with a sponge or soft brush dipped into the liquid. The quantity of saffron as well as of water will of course depend on how much dye may be wanted, and their relative proportions on the depth of color required. A common teacup will contain sufficient in quantity for a single pair of gloves. To Stain Bone or Ivory. materials. The body should first be steeped in They may be stained with the ordinary dyeing the mordant, and then in a hot bath of coloring material. Bichloride of tin as a mordant will give fustie, violet with logwood. Black is given by red with Brazil-wood or cochineal, yellow with nitrate of silver; gilding by immersion in a fresh solution of copperas, and afterwards of chloride of gold; bleaching by a solution of sulphurous MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS FOR DYEING, acid. To Dye Bristles or Feathers Green. Blue. Take of indigo and risse, each 1 oz., and a piece of alum the size of a hazelnut; put them into gum-water, and dip the materials into it hot; hang them up to dry, and clap them well that they may open; and, by changing the colors, the aforesaid materials may be in this manner, dyed of any color. For purple, use lake and indigo; for carnation, vermilion and smalt. Red.Take 1 oz. of Brazil-wood in powder, oz. of alum, oz. of vermilion, and 1 pint of vinegar; boil them up to a moderate thickness, and dip the bristles or feathers (they having been first soaked in hot water) into the said mixture. Feathers may be dyed at once, of any shade, by means of coal-tar colors (p. 318). To Dye or Color Horse-Hair. Steep in water wherein a small quantity of turpentine has been boiled for the space of two hours; then, having prepared the colors very hot, boil the hair therein, and any color, black excepted, will take, but that will only take a dark-red or dark-blue, etc. To Dye Gloves. Take the color suitable for the occasion; if dark take Spanish brown and black earth; if lighter, yellow and whiting; and so on with other colors. Mix them with a moderate fire, daub the gloves over with the color wet, and let them hang till they are dry; then beat out the superfluity of the color, and smoothe them over with a stretching or sleeking stick, reducing them to their proper shape. To Dye White Gloves Purple. Boil 4 oz. of logwood and 2 oz. of roche-alum in 8 pts. of soft water till half wasted; let the liquor stand to cool after straining. Let the gloves be nicely mended; then, with a brush, rub them over, and when dry repeat. Twice is sufficient, unless the color is to be very dark. When dry, rub off To Prepare Wood for Dyeing. The wood mostly used to dye black is pear-tree, holly, and beach, all of which take a beautiful Do not use wood that has been long black color. cut, or aged, but let it be as fresh as possible. After the veneers have had 1 hour's boiling, and been taken out to cool, the color is always much stronger. When dyed, they should be dried in the air, and not by the fire, nor in a kiln of any kind, as artificial heat tends to destroy the color. In order to dye blue, green, red or other colors, take clear holly. Put the veneers into a box or trough, with clear water, and let them remain 4 or 5 days, changing the water once or twice as occasion may require. The water will clear the wood of slime, etc. Let them dry about 12 hours before they are put into the dye; by observing this the color will strike quicker, and be of a brighter hue. To Stain Oak a Mahogany Color. Boil together Brazil-wood and alum, and before it is applied to the wood a little potash is to be added to it. A suitable varnish for wood, thus tinged, may be made by dissolving amber in oil of turpentine, mixed with a small portion of linseed oil. Ebony black.-Steep the wood for 2 or 3 days in lukewarm water, in which a little alum has been dissolved; then put a handful of logwood, cut small, into a pint of water, and boil it down to less than a pint. If a little indigo is added, the color will be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this liquor quite hot on the wood with a pencil, which will give it a violet color. When it is dry, spread on another layer; dry it again, and give it a third; then boil verdigris at discretion in its own vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the wood; when it is dry rub it with a brush, and then with oiled chamois skin. This gives a fine black, and imitates perfectly the color of ebony. process again, and then rub the wood with the following composition:-Put into a glazed earthen vessel 1 pint of strong vinegar, 2 oz. of fine iron filings, and lb. of pounded galls, and allow them to infuse for 3 or 4 hours on hot cinders. At the end of this time augment the fire, and pour into the vessel 4 oz. of copperas (sulphate of iron), and a chopin of water having oz. of borax and as much indigo dissolved in it; and make the whole boil till a froth rises. Rub several layers of this upon the wood; and, when it is dry, polish it with leather on which a little tripoli has been put. Another. Pour 2 qts. of boiling water over 1 oz. commercial extract of logwood, and when it is dissolved add 1 dr. of yellow chromate of potash, and stir well. This stain is cheap, keeps well, can be applied cold with a brush without any prepa ration. To Stain Beech-wood a Mahogany Color. Break 2 oz. of dragon's blood in pieces, and put them into a qt. of rectified spirit of wine; let the bottle stand in a warm place, and shake it frequently. When dissolved it is fit for use. Another Method. Boil 1 lb. of logwood in 4 qts. of water, and add a double handful of walnut peeling. Boil it up again, take out the chips, add a pint of the best vinegar, and it will be fit for use. To Stain Musical Instruments. Crimson-Boil 1 lb. of ground Brazil-wood in 3 qts. of water for an hour; strain it, and add an oz. of cochineal; boil it again for an hour gently, and it will be fit for use. Purple.-Boil 1 lb. of chip logwood in 3 qts. of water for an hour; then add 4 oz. of pearlash and 2 oz. of indigo pounded. To Stain Box-wood Brown. Hold the work to the fire, that it may receive a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and with a feather pass it over the work till it changes to a fine brown. Then oil and polish it. To Dye Wood a Silver Gray. Let not the veneers be too dry; when put into the copper pour hot iron liquor (acetate of iron) over them, and add 1 lb. of chip logwood with 2 oz. of bruised nut-galls. Then boil up another pot of iron liquor to supply the copper, keeping the veneers covered and boiling 2 hours a day, until thoroughly penetrated. Bright yellow. A very small bit of aloes put into the varnish will make the wood of a good yellow color. Another Method. and aquafortis, and keep it lukewarm until it has struck through. Purple.-To 2 lbs. of chip logwood and ↓ lb. of Brazil-dust add 4 galls. of water. Put in the veneers, and boil them well; then add 6 oz. of pearlash and 2 oz. of alum; let them boil 2 or 3 hours every day, till the color has struck through. Fine blue.-Into 1 lh. of oil of vitriol in a glass bottle put 4 oz. of indigo, and proceed as before directed. To Stain Paper or Parchment. Yellow.-Paper may be stained a beautiful yellow by the tincture of turmeric formed by infusing an oz. or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of wine. This may be made to give any tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color, called French yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow be wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anatto or dragon's blood must be added. The best manner of using these, and the following tinctures, is to spread them even on the paper or parchment, by means of a broad brush, in the manner of varnish. Crimson. A very fine crimson stain may be given to paper by a tincture of the Indian lake, which may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the tincture from the dregs. It may be stained red by red ink. It may also be stained of a scarlet hue by the tincture of dragon's blood in spirit of wine, but this will not be bright. Green. - Paper or parchment may be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water. Orange.-Stain the paper or parchment first of then brush it over with a solution of fixed alkaa full yellow by means of the tincture of turmeric, line salt, made by dissolving an oz. of pearlash, or salt of tartar, in a quart of water, and filtering the solution. Purple.- Paper or parchment may be stained purple by archil, or by the tincture of logwood. The juice of ripe privet-berries expressed will likewise give a purple dye. The coal-tar colors are especially adapted to coloring paper. To Marble the Edges of Books or Paper. Dissolve 4 oz. of gum arabic in 2 qts. of clear water; then provide several colors mixed with water in pots or shells, and with pencils peculiar to each color, sprinkle them by way of intermixture upon the gum-water, which must be put into a trough, or some broad vessel, then with a stick curl them or draw them out in streaks to as much variety as required. Having done this, hold the book or books close together, and only dip the edges in on the top of the water and colors very lightly; which done, take them off, and the plain impression of the colors in mixture will be upon the leaves; doing as well the end as the front of the books in the same manner. To Marble the Covers of Books. This is performed by forming clouds with aquafortis, or oil of vitriol, mixed with ink, and afterwards glazing the covers. To Color Vellum Green. Takept. of the best white wine vinegar, 1 oz. of verdigris, and 1 oz. of sap-green; dissolve them in the vinegar for a few days, having been heated by the fire. Shake the bottle frequently before it is used. Wash the vellum over with weak potash water, and when dry color it with the green 3 or 4 times, till it has a good color; when dry wash it over with thin paste water to give the vellum a gloss. |