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casts required for the purposes of dentistry, the models of jewellers, and other articles requiring sharp and smooth edges and sides.

The collodion oil-liquid, when very thin, may also be employed as a varnish for pictures, prints, etc. Artificial Wood.

In one of his last lectures at the "Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers," M. Payen called the attention of his hearers to the process of making a kind of ebony or artificial wood, very hard, very heavy, and capable of receiving a very high polish and a brilliant varnish. M. Ladry, the inventor of this process, takes very fine saw-dust, mixes it with blood from the slaughter-houses, and submits the resulting paste to a very heavy pressure obtained by the hydraulic press. If the paste has been enclosed in moulds it will take the form of the moulds, and resembles pieces of ebony carved by a skilful hand.

Another curious application of this paste consists in the formation of brushes; the bristles are arranged in the paste while yet soft; the paste is covered by a plate pierced with holes, through which the bristles pass; the pressure is then applied and brushes are obtained, made of a single piece cheaper and more lasting than the usual kind. This artificial wood of M. Ladry is much heavier than common woods.

Blood Cement for Coppersmiths.

A cement often used by coppersmiths to lay over the rivets and edges of the sheets of copper in large boilers, to serve as an additional security to the joinings, and to secure cocks, etc., from leaking, is made by mixing pounded quicklime with ox's blood. It must be applied fresh made, as it Boon gets hard. If the properties of this cement were duly investigated, it would probably be found useful for many purposes to which it has never yet been applied. It is extremely cheap, and very durable.

Entomologist's Cement.

To a sclution of gum ammoniac in proof spirit, add the best isinglass, and unite them with a gentle heat. The great value of this cement consists in the rediness with which it melts, and the little tendency it has to be affected by moisture. It is generally employed by entomologists in rejoining the dislocated parts of insects, for which it is very convenient.

Japanese Cement, or Rice Glue.

This elegant cement is made by mixing riceflour intimately with cold water, and then gently boiling it; it is beautifully white, and dries almost transparent. Papers pasted together by means of this cement will sooner separate in their own substance than at the joining, which makes it useful in the preparation of curious paper articles, as tea-trays, ladies' dressing boxes, and other objects that require layers of paper to be cemented together.

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Black.

1. Venice turpentine, 44 oz.; shellac, 9 oz.; colophony, oz.; lampblack mixed to a paste with oil of turpentine, q. s.

2. Inferior. Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 8 oz.; 3 oz of colophony, and sufficient lampblack mixed with oil of turpentine to color it.

3. Shellac, 8 oz.; Venice turpentine, 4 oz. ; lampblack, 6 oz.

4. Common, for Bottles.-Resin, 6 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; Venice turpentine, 2 oz.; lampblack, q. 8.

Brown.

1. Light Brown. - Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 7 oz.: brown earth (English umber), oz.; cinnabar, oz.; prepared chalk, oz.; carbonate of magnesia, moistened with oil of turpentine, 1 dr.

2. Light Brown.-Second Quality.-Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 7 oz. ; resin, 3 oz.; English umber 3 oz.; cinnabar, oz.; prepared chalk, 1 oz.; magnesia as the last. fine

3. Dark Brown.-Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 7 oz.; English umber, 14 oz.; magnesia as before.

4. Dark Brown.-Second Quality.-Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 7 oz.; colophony, 3 oz.; English umber, 1 oz.; magnesia as before. Green.

Venice turpentine, 2 oz.; shellac, 4 oz.; colophony, 1 oz.; King's yellow, oz.; Prussian blue, oz.; magnesia as for brown.

Gold.

1. Venice turpentine 4 oz.; fine shellac, 8 oz.; leaf gold, 14 sheets; bronze powder, oz.; magnesia (made into a paste with oil of turpentine), 1 dr.

2. Use gold tale instead of gold leaf and bronze. Marbled. Melt each colored wax separately, and just as they begin to grow solid, mix together.

Red.

1. Fine Carmine Wax. - Venice turpentine, 2 oz.; finest shellac, 4 oz.; colophony, 1 oz.; English vermilion, 14 oz.; magnesia (moistened with oil of turpentine), 1 dr.

2. Finest Red.-Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 7 oz.: cinnabar, 4 oz.; carbonate of magnesia (with oil of turpentine), 1 dr;

3. As the last, with only 34 oz. of cinnabar. 4. Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 64 oz.; colophony, oz.; cinnabar, 24 oz.; magnesia (with oil of turpentine), 1 dr.

5. Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac, 6 oz. ; colophony, oz. ; cinnabar, 1 oz. ; magnesia as before. 6. As the last, but use colophony and cinnabar, each 1 oz.

7. Venice turpentine, 4 oz.; shellac 5 c.; colophony, 14 oz.; cinnabar, 1 oz.; magnesia a

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1 oz. Mix together and color with red-lead, Veni- | to be placed in a situation free from dust, and tian-red or lamp black.

2. Resin, 19 oz.; beeswax, 1 oz.; color as before.

India-rubber Court-Plaster.

3

A stout frame of wood must be made, about yards long and about 14 yards wide. Within this frame must be placed 2 sides of another frame, running longitudinally and across, so fixed in the outer frame that the 2 pieces may slide independently of each other backwards and forwards about 6 inches. Tapes of canvas must be tacked round the inside of the inner frame, so as to form a square for the material to be sewn in, which, when done, the two loop-frames must be drawn tightly to the outer by means of a twine passed round each, in order to stretch perfectly free from irregularities the silk or satin previous to laying on the composition.

To make the Plaster. Dissolve India-rubber in naphtha or naphtha and turpentine; lay it on with a flat brush on the opposite side to that which is intended for the plaster. When the silk is perfectly dry, and the smell in a great measure dissipated, it will be ready for the adhesive material; to make which take equal parts of Salisbury or fine Russian glue and the best isinglass, dissolve in a sufficient quantity of water over a water-bath, and lay on with a flat hogtool while warm. It is requisite to use great caution to spread the plaster evenly and in one direction, and a sufficient number of coatings must be given to form a smooth surface, through which the texture of the fabric is not perceptible. Each coating should be perfectly dry before the succeeding one is given; after which the frame is

where a draught of air would facilitate the drying. The quantity of water used and the weight of the two materials must be a little varied, according to the season and the gelatine strength they possess. Lastly, the plaster being ready to receive the polishing coat, which gives also the balsamic effect to it, a preparation is made in nearly the same manner as the compound tineture of benzoin, with the addition of more gums. This preparation must be laid on once only, and with a brush kept for the purpose. For making plasters on colored silk it is only necessary to se lect the silk a shade deeper than the colors required, as the plaster causes it to appear a little lighter. Tooth Cements

Are only recommended when the decay has proceeded so far that the ordinary plugging is impossible. Those containing mercury are objected to by many. They consist of an amalgam of silver, gold, or tin, applied warm. The following have been used:

1. Anhydrous phosphoric acid, 12 grs.; pure caustic lime, 13 grs.; both finely powdered, and mixed rapidly in a mortar at the time of using. Smoothe off with the finger moistened with a drop

of water.

2. Asbestos, or levigated quartz, made into a paste with mastic varnish.

Artificial Ivory for Photographers. Tablets of gelatine or glue are immersed in solution of alumina. When entirely penetrated by the alumina, the slabs are to be removed, dried and polished like ivory.

INKS, etc.

PRELIMINARY REMARKS. Ordinary black writing-ink contains a mixture of the tannates and gallates of the proto and sesquioxide of iron. These are insoluble in water, and are suspended by means of gum. Creosote or essential oils are added to prevent moulding.

Many receipts are given for inks; those found below are reliable. As a general rule, the use of vinegar, logwood, and salts of copper is not to be recommended. Inks so prepared are richer at first, but will fade and act on pens.

Most ink is pale when first written with, but becomes dark; this is owing to oxidation. Such ink lasts better than that which is very black.

When ink fades, it is from a decomposition of the organic matter; it may be restored by brushing over with infusion of galls or solution of ferrocyanide of potassium. The durability of any ink is impaired by the use of steel pens.

Writing Fluids.

Ink which is blue when first used (Stark's, Stephens's, Arnold's) contains sulphate of indigo, or soluble Prussian blue. It is an ink which is a true solution, and not merely a suspended precipitate. The same is true of Runge's Chrome Ink.

Marking Inks,

Aniline black is nearly indelible; it is turned yellowish, but not removed, by chlorine.

To make common Black Ink. Pour 1 gall. of boiling soft water on 1 lb. of powdered galls, previously put into a proper vessel. Stop the mouth of the vessel, and set it in the sun in summer, or in winter where it may be warmed by any fire, and let it stand 2 or 3 days. Then add lb. of green vitriol powdered, and, having stirred the mixture well together with a wooden spatula, let it stand again for 2 or 3 days, repeating the stirring, when add further to it 5 oz. of gum Arabic dissolved in a quart of boiling water; and, lastly, 2 oz. of alum; after which let the ink be strained through a coarse linen cloth for use.

Another. A good and durable black ink may be made by the following directions: To 2 pts. of water add 3 oz. of the dark-colored, rough-skinned Aleppo galls in gross powder, and of rasped logwood, green vitriol, and gum arabic, each, 1 oz.

This mixture is to be put in a convenient vessel, and well shaken four or five times a day, for ten or twelve days, at the end of which time it will be fit for use, though it will improve by remaining longer on the ingredients.

Stark's Ink (Writing fluid).

Containing nitrate of silver, are not indelible; Twelve oz. nut-galls, 8 oz. each, sulphate of indithey may be removed by cyanide of potassium. go and copperas, a few cloves, 4 or 6 oz. of gum AraCarbon inks, such as coal-tar diluted with naph-bic for a gallon of ink. The addition of the sul tha, are indelible. phate of indigo renders the ink more permanent

and less liable to mould. It is blue when first written with, but soon becomes an intense black.

Chrome Ink (Runge's Ink).

This ink is of an excellent blue-black, does not fade, and, as it contains no gum, flows freely from the pen. It does not affect steel pens. Take 1 oz. extract of logwood, pour over it 2 qts. of boiling water, and, when the extract is dissolved, add 1 dr. of yellow chromate of potassa. This ink ean be made for twenty-five cents a gallon. If put into an old inkstand, it must be thoroughly cleansed, as ordinary ink decomposes chrome ink.

Non-corrosive Writing Fluid.

Dissolve sulphate of indigo (chemic or Saxony blue) in twelve times its weight of water, add carbonate of soda as long as any precipitate falls, dissolve this in 150 parts of boiling water, let it settle and use the clear portion. It dries nearly black, flows very freely, and will not corrode pens

or paper.

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Digest 24 parts Aleppo galls with 3 parts Dutch madder and 120 parts warin water. Filter. Mix 1.2 parts solution of indigo, 5.2 parts sulphate of iron, and 2 parts crude acetate of iron solution. This ink contains no gum, cannot get mouldy; | the tannate of iron is prevented from separating by the sulphate of indigo. Alizarine ink may be evaporated to dryness and formed into cakes. One part with 6 parts hot water will then form an excellent writing fluid.

Indestructible Ink for Resisting the Action of Corrosive Substances.

A Purple-red Ink for Marking Line... The place where the linen is to be marked is first wetted with a solution consisting of 3 drs. of carbonate of soda, and 3 drs. of gum Arabic, dissolved in 1 oz. of water, then dried and smoothed. The place is now to be written on with a solution composed of 1 dr. of chloride of platina dissolved in 2 oz. of distilled water, then allowed to dry. When quite dry, the writing is to be painted over with a goose's feather, moistened with a liquid consisting of one dr. of protochloride of tin dissolved in 2 oz. of distilled water. Blue and Indelible Black Ink.

Take of iodide of potassium, 1 oz.; iodine, 6 drs.; water, 4 oz.; dissolve. Make a solution of 2 oz. of ferrocyanide of potassium in water. Add the iodine solution to the second. A blue precipitate will fall, which, after filtering. may be dissolved in water, forming a blue ink. This blue, added to common ink, renders it indelible.

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As soon as the accident happens,. wet the place with juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and the best hard white soap, or use a weak solution of oxalic acid.

To take out Marking Ink.

Ordinary marking-ink is removed by wetting with a solution of cyanide of potassium, and afterwards washing with water. The cyanide must be carefully handled, as it is a violent poison.

To make New Writing look Old.

Take 1 dr. of saffron, and infuse it into pt. of ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, and it will cause whatever is written with it to turn yellow, and appear as if of many years' standing.

On many occasions it is of importance to em. ploy an ink indestructible by any process, and will not equally destroy the material on which it is applied. For black ink, 25 grs. of copal, in powder, are to be dissolved in 200 grs. of oil of lavender, by the assistance of a gentle heat, and. are then to be mixed with 24 grs. of lampblack and gr. of indigo; for red ink use 120 grs. of oil of lavender, 17 grs. of Copal, and 60 grains of vermilion. A little oil of lavender or of turpentine may be added, if the ink be found too thickA mixture of genuine asphaltum dissolved in oil of turpentine or benzine, amber varnish and lamp-pt. of vinegar, stir it until it is mixed well; when black, would be still superior. the paper or parchment is greasy, put 1 drop of the gall into the ink, and the difficulty will be instantly obviated.

This ink is particularly useful in labelling phials, etc. containing chemical or corrosive sub

stances.

Ink Powder.

Take 4 oz. powdered galls, dried sulphate of iron, 1 oz.; powdered gum, 1 oz,; white sugar, oz.; to make a quart of ink with water or beer.

MARKING INK.

Jules Guillier, who received five years' exclusive privilege in Paris for making marking inks, gives the following formulæ. But one preparation is required, and the inventor states that they will not wash out or fade.

No 1. Nitrate of silver, 11 parts; distilled water, 85 parts; powdered gum Arabic, 20 parts: rbonate of soda, 22 parts; solution of ammonia, 0 parts. Dissolve the carbonate of soda, and afterwards the gum (by trituration in a mortar) in the water, dissolve the nitrate of silver in the ammonia and add to the carbonate of soda solution. Heat gently to the boiling point; the ink at first turbid, becomes clear and very dark.

No. 2. Nitrate of silver, 5 parts; distilled water, 12 parts; powdered gum Arabic, 5 parts; carbonate of soda, 7 parts; solution of ammonia, 10 parts. Heat as before, and heat until it has a very dark color. This ink is very black and is suitable for marking by stamps.

To Write on Greasy Paper or Parchment. Put to a bullock's gall 1 handful of salt, and

To Restore Decayed Writings.

1. Cover the letters with solution of ferrocyanide of potassium, with the addition of a diluted mineral acid; upon the application of which, the letters change very speedily to a deep blue color, of great beauty and intensity. To prevent the spreading of the color, which, by blotting the parchment, detracts greatly from the legibility, the ferrocyanide should be put on first, and the diluted acid added upon it. The method found to answer best has been to spread the ferrocyanide thin with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a blunt point. Though the ferrocyanide should occasion no sensible change of color, yet the moment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon acquires its full intensity, and is beyond comparison stronger than the color of the original trace. If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting-paper be care fully and dexterously applied near the letters, so as to imbibe the superfluous liquor, the staining of the parchment may be in a great measure avoided; for it is this superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of the coloring matters from the letters, becomes a dye to whatever it touches. Care must be taken not to bring the blotting-paper in contact with the letters, because the coloring matter is soft

whilst wet, and may easily be rubbed off. The acid chiefly employed is the muriatic; but both the sulphuric and nitric succeed very well. They should be so far diluted as not to be liable to corrode the parchment, after which the degree of strength does not seem to be a matter of much nicety.

acid; then take 4 oz. of oyster-shells calcined te whiteness, and carefully freed from their browL crust; put them into the vinegar, shake the mix. ture frequently for 24 hours, then let it stand til it deposits its sediment; filter the clear part through unsized paper into a glass vessel; then add 2 oz. of the best Aleppo galls bruised, and place the liquor in a warm place; shake it fie quently for 24 hours, then filter the liquor again through unsized paper, and add to it after filtration, 1 qt., ale measure, of pure water. It must then stand 24 hours, and be filtered again, if it shows a disposition to deposit any sediment, which it generally does. When paper has been wet with this liquid, put it between 2 thick unsized papers to absorb the superfluous moisture; then lay it over the writing to be copied, and put a piece of clean writing-paper above it. Put the whole on the board of a rolling-press, and press them through the rolls, as is done in printing copperplates, and a copy of the writing will appear on both sides of the thin moistened paper; on one side in a reversed order and direction, but on the the lines.

2. Morid's Process. The paper or parchment written on is first left for some time in contact with distilled water. It is then placed for 5 seconds in a solution of oxalic acid (1 of acid to 100 of water); next, after washing it, it is put in a vessel containing a solution of gallic acid (10 grs. of acid to 300 of distilled water); and finally washed again and dried. The process should be carried forward with care and promptness, that any accidental discoloration of the paper may be avoided. To take Impressions from Recent Manuscripts. This is done by means of fusible metal. In order to show the application of it, paste a piece of paper on the bottom of a China saucer, and allow it to dry; then write upon it with a common writing ink, and sprinkle some finely powdered gum Arabic over the writing, which produces a slight other side in the natural order and direction of relief. When it is well dried, and the adhering powder brushed off, the fusible metal is poured into the saucer, and is cooled rapidly, to prevent crystallization. The metal then takes a cast of the writing, and, when it is immersed in slightly warm water to remove adhering gum, impressions may be taken from it as from a copper-plate.

Another Method.

Put a little sugar into a common writing ink, and let the writing be executed with this upon common paper, sized as usual. When a copy is required, let unsized paper be taken and lightly moistened with a sponge. Then apply the wet paper to the writing, and passing lightly a flat-iron, of a moderate heat, such as is used by laundresses, over the unsized paper, the copy will be immediately produced. This method requires no machine or preparation, and may be employed in situation.

any

To Produce a Fac-simile of any Writing. The pen should be made of glass enamel; the point being small and finely polished; so that the part above the point may be large enough to hold as much ink as, or more than a common writing

pen.

A mixture of equal parts of Frankfort black, and fresh butter, is now to be smeared over sheets of paper, and rubbed off after a certain time. The paper, thus smeared, is to be pressed for some hours, taking care to have sheets of blottingpaper between each of the sheets of black paper. When fit for use, writing-paper is put between sheets of blackened paper, and the upper sheet is to be written on, with common writing-ink, by the glass or enamel pen. By this method, not only the copy is obtained on which the pen writes, but also two or more, made by means of the blackened

paper.

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COPPER-PLATE PRINTERS' INK. Ink for the rolling-press is made of linseed-oil, burnt just as for common printing-ink, and is then mixed with Frankfort black, finely ground. There oil or black to suit. Good ink depends most on are no certain proportions, every workman adding burned. Test it occasionally by cooling a drop the purity of the oil, and on its being thoroughly on the inside of an oyster-shell; feel it between threads, it is burnt enough. the thumb and finger, and if it draws out into Weak oil well charged with black is called stiff ink. Oil fully burned and charged with as much black as it will take in, is termed strong ink. The character of the engraving to be printed determines which is suitable. It is cleaned out with spirits of turpentine.

Another Method.

Instead of Frankfort, or other kinds of black commonly used, the following composition may be substituted, and will form a much deeper and more beautiful black than can be obtained by any other method. Take of the deepest Prussian blue, 5 parts, and of the deepest colored lake and brown pink, each 1 part, Grind them well with oil of turpentine, and afterwards with the strong and weak oils in the manner and proportion above directed. The colors need not be bright for this purpose, but they should be the deepest of the kind, and perfectly transparent in oil, as the whole effect depends on that quality.

PRINTERS' INK.

Ten or 12 galls. of nut or linseed-oil are set over the fire in a large iron pot, and brought to boil. It is then stirred with an iron ladle; and whilst boiling, the inflammable vapor arising from it either takes fire of itself or is kindled, and is suffered to burn in this way for about hour; the pot being partially covered so as to regulate the body of the flame, and consequently the heat communicated to that the whole may be heated equally; otherwise a the oil. It is frequently stirred during this time, part would be charred, and the rest left imperfect. The flame is then extinguished by entirely covering the pot. The oil, by this process, has much of its unctuous quality destroyed; and when cold is of the consistence of soft turpentine; it is then called varnish. After this, it is made into ink by mixture with the requisite quantity of lampblack,

of which about 24 oz. are sufficient for 16 oz. of the prepared oil. The oil loses by the boiling about of its weight, and emits very offensive fumes. Several other additions are made to the oil during the boiling, such as crusts of bread, onions, and sometimes turpentine. These are kept secret by the preparers. The intention of them is more effectually to destroy part of the unctuous quality of oil, to give it more body, to enable it to adhere better to the wetted paper, and to spread on the types neatly and uniformly. Besides these additions, others are made by the printers, of which the most important is a little fine indigo in powder, to improve the beauty of the color.

Another Method.

One pound of lampblack ground very fine or run through a lawn sieve; 2 oz. of Prussian blue ground very fine; 4 oz. of linseed-oil, well boiled and skimmed; 4 oz. of spirit of turpentine, very clear; 4 oz. of soft varnish, or neat's-foot oil. To be well boiled and skimmed; and while boiling the top burned off by several times applying lighted paper. Let these be well mixed; then put the whole in a jug, place that in a pan, and boil them very carefully 1 hour.

A Fine Black Printing-Ink.

write with a quill pen. Writings made on zine with this ink will keep many years.

Indian-ink

Let ivory or lampblack be mixed with a small portion of Prussian blue or indigo, for a blueblack, and let the same blacks be united with raw or burnt umber, bistre, vandyke or any other brown, instead of the blue, for a brown-black. These should be mixed together in a weak gumwater (perhaps matt-work would answer the purpose better), first levigating them very fine, in common water, on a marble slab. When dried to the consistence of a paste, let the glutinous matter be well mixed with them; that will be found sufficiently strong, which binds the composition, so as to prevent rubbing off by the touch. Indianink drawings should be handled as lightly as possible. Too much gum in the composition will create an offensive gloss.

Another Method.

Isinglass, 6 oz., and 12 oz. of soft water; make into size; add 1 oz. of refined liquorice, ground up with 1 oz. of genuine ivory-black, and stir the whole well. Evaporate the water in balneum marise, and form the sticks or cakes.

A Substitute for Indian-ink.

Boil parchment slips or cuttings of glove-leather Less turpentine and oil, without Prussian blue, in water till it forms a size, which, when cool, befor common ink.

Best Printing-Ink.

In a secured iron pot (fire outside when possible), boil 12 galls. of nut or linseed-oil; stir with iron ladle, long handle; while boiling put an iron cover partly over, set the vapor on fire by lighted paper often applied; keep stirring well, and on the fire 1 hour at least (or till the oily particles are burnt); then add 1 lb. of onions cut in pieces, and a few crusts of bread, to get out the residue of oil; also varnish, 16 oz.; fine lampblack, 3 oz.; ground indigo, oz. Boil well 1 hour.

Good Common Printing-Ink.

Take 16 oz. of varnish, 4 oz. of linseed-oil well boiled, 4 oz. of clear oil of turpentine, 16 oz. of fine lampblack, 2 oz. of Prussian blue, fine, 1 oz. of indigo, fine. Boil 1 hour.

Printers' Red Ink.

Soft varnish and vermilion with white of eggs not very thick. Common varnish, red lead and orange. Colcothar is indelible.

Blue.

Prussian blue and a little ivory-black with varnish and eggs very thick. Common indigo and varnish; then wash off with boiling lees.

Green.

Sesquioxide of chromium (chrome green). This is the ink used in printing Greenbacks. It is indestructible, and cannot be photographed. Perpetual Ink for Inscriptions on Tombstones, Marbles, etc.

This ink is formed by mixing about 3 parts of pitch with 1 part of lampblack, and making them incorporate by melting the pitch. With this composition, used in a melted state, the letters are filled, and will, without extraordinary violence, endure as long as the stone itself.

Ink for Writing on Zinc Labels. Horticultural ink.-Dissolve 100 grs. of chloride of platinum in a pint of water. A little mucilage and lampblack may be added.

Another. Mix thoroughly 2 parts (by weight) verdigris, 2 of sal amoniac, 1 of lampblack, and 30 of water. Always shake well before using, and

comes of the eor.sistence of jelly; then, having blackened an ea then plate, by holding it over the flame of a candle, mix up, with a camel-hair pencil, the fine lampblack thus obtained with some of the above size, while the plate is still warm. This black requires no grinding, and produces an ink of the same color, which works as freely with the pencil, and is as perfectly transparent as the best Indian-ink.

SYMPATHETIC INKS.

Sympathetic inks are such as do not appear after they are written with, but which may be made to appear at pleasure by certain means to be used for that purpose. A variety of substances have been used as sympathetic inks, among which are the following:

Chloride of Gold and Tin.

Write with a solution of gold in aqua regia, and let the paper dry gently in the shade. Nothing will appear, but draw a sponge over it, wetted with a solution of tin in aqua regia, and the writing will immediately appear, of a purple color. Starch and Iodine.

Write with weak boiled starch, and when the writing is required to appear, brush over with a weak solution of iodine; the letters will appear blue.

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