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before received a large and ex- amid such a maze of entanglepensive consignment of salmon- ments. One fish out of “Jaok flies from a well - known the Sailor” was to my mind taokle-shop in London. He worth three caught in any had most unfortunately taken other pool. I used often, when out with him a large round going down the river late in tin box, the magazine in which the evening, to stop for & the whole of this valuable couple of casts in “Jack,” tackle was enshrined. The although I knew that another tin box went overboard with anoe must have been there other odds and ends, and was not long before, and I more written off as lost. About & than once succeeded in stealweek afterwards a lad oame up ing a fish out of it just as it to our oamp from a farm on one was beooming dark. of the lower pools with a fine, Bitter experience had taught though not quite complete, ool. me that there was one way, leotion of salmon-flies, which and one way only, to avoid had been found in the meshes disaster. If you allowed your of one of the stake-nets. fish to explore the fastnesses of

One more adventure. I have “ Jaok the Sailor” you would seen it said that “all fishermen most certainly lose him, and are liars," and on the strength probably your tackle also. of the story that I am going to The only chance was to pretell I shall perhaps qualify for vent suoh exploration at any enrolment in the fraternity. cost, to get him tight by the It all happened in “Jack the head, and to hang hard on to Sailor,” whioh was, I think, him, even at the risk of a upon the whole, my favourite break. With a stiff rod and pool. It was not too far from sound taokle you can put a home; it always held fish, terrifio strain on a firmly generally large fish; and it hooked salmon. I am, by the was extremely dangerous, way, oonvinoed that more fish whioh perhaps added to its are lost by over-tender handattraotions. At this point the ling than by more vigorous river flows between low cliffs methods. surmounted by a thiok growth One day in 1885 I was apof trees. Ribs of jagged rook plying my principles to a very run out into its depths, and stout fish, keeping him near could be plainly seen at low the oange in the clear water, water, twenty or thirty feet and checking him whenever he below the surface. Here and tried to take soundings. After there great water-logged snags he had made one or two strong had become firmly lodged drives and been met with an among them. The whole ar- equally strong application of rangement was & standing the butt, he suddenly yielded invitation to a hooked fish to to the pressure, shot up to the out himself free. The wonder surface within two or three was, not that one lost fish, but feet of us, throw himself high that fish were over landed out of the water, and landed almost in Noel's arms between happened on & warm June the thwarts of the oanoe. He evening to be passing through would certainly have jumped the baok garden of a London overboard again had not Noel house, in which half a dozen driven the gaff firmly into his grimy, trees were struggling side.

into leaf amid & dingy and All this happened on a depressing environment. Sud. Saturday. On Sundays there denly something took me away used to be a great gathering from London and back to of the boatmen at Woodman's Canada and to the river, Farm. On the following Mon- What was it? There was a day I asked Noel whether he reason. One of the trees was had said anything to his & poplar, a balgam poplar; friends about our fish. He there were the stioky buds replied that he had told Mr and the aromatio and intoxiWoodman all about it. eating soent. For a moment “What," I asked, "did Mr I seemed to see the old sights, Woodman say?" "He said," to smell the old smells, to replied Noel, “ for me to come hear the old sounds — the in and have a glass of whisky," rush of the rapids, the perand with this oracular utter. fume of the forest, the clinkanoe my story must end. ing of the iron - shod poles,

as the canoe forged its way Many years after I had said upwards to the Middle Camp good-bye to the Casoa pedia, I or to Lazy bogan.





I WAS & subaltern in the its objectives had been atSappers at the time. I had tained, the whole British force not been in Palestine long was withdrawing to the Jordan before finding myself at a Valley, taking these refugees place oalled Es Salt during with it, and the Turks were à raid into Turkish territory steadily closing in on Es beyond the Jordan in the Salt. spring of 1918.

My job wasn't a pleasant Es Salt was one of those one; I oan tell you that much. “whited sepulohre” towns These affairs in which one is whioh you 80 often come left behind are never enjoyable. across in Palestine-all glit. But & soanty knowledge of tering in the sun and spot. Arabio and & decent one of lessly bright from a distance, French had let me in for the and nothing but dirty streets task. So with the attitude covered with dung-heaps and of fatalism whioh helped one inhabited by ounning-looking to face many a trouble in Bedouins and sprawling ours, those days, but which I have and houses infested with in- sinoe deoided is an entirely seots, when you get into them. false one, I set about my

Still, to give Es Salt its work. due, it was a little cleanerA ll day the refugees had than the average run of streamed out of the town “whited sepulohres," and it along the zigzag mountain was remarkably pioturesque- road that led into the gorge & kind of natural amphic of the Shaib. A babel of theatre, in whioh the tiers weird shouting bad arisen of seats were houses built from relations and friends into and orannied out of a searohing for each other berooky hollow in the hills of fore setting out together. Moab.

Later in the day babel beI had reached Es Salt three came more angry with echodays before, and now towards ing thunder of guns in the evening on 1st April I found hills around the town and the myself in the peouliar posi. ever-nearing rattle of machine. tion of shepherding Armenian guns. Towards afternoon & refugees, or the few stragglers sandstorm descended on the of them remaining, out of the town, blotting out the sur. town. You see, the raid or rounding hills and leaving so


much sand in the air, even velop the evacuation with after it had passed, as to confusion. Nearer and nearer spread an uncanny darkness down the Amman road came over everything.

the soft stealthy tramp of the The exodus of refugees withdrawing columns of inseemed as if it would never fantry. These were the rearcease. There were camels guard of the whole force, bo weighted with huge paokages that, when they had gone, of carpets and sometimes even no defence remained between furniture; there were donkeys, the town and the Turks. one I remember with an There was nothing left for enormous brass cauldron on me to do but to make my its baok, others carrying departure with them, women and children, the hus. By the time I reached the band or some male relative main road the shadowy fours, walking beside them with a weary and bent under their stiok, and the groups remind- paoks, but muttering jests in ing one of piotures of the their relief at leaving the flight of the Holy Family out unoannily isolated positions of Egypt.

that rearguard troops must I had spent the whole day take up, were fliokering almost in walking round from house silently through the streets. to house and hut to hut ex- I made my way through a plaining to the inhabitants as gap in the column to the spot well as I could that, if they where my groom held our two wished to be freed from the horses on the farther side of detested Turk, this would be the street. their last ohanoe for some time As I came up, he remarkedto come. I had some amusing “There's a girl as wants to experiences, especially in a speak to yer, sir." harem into which I trespassed “Where?” I asked hurriedly, accidentally, and in which I for there was little time left narrowly escaped getting for conversations. knifed; but that is another “Here, sir. She's standin' story, ...

by you." After a time I had become the stars and moon had not 80 engrossed in seeing Arabs made their appearance. What and Armenians depart, and was my astonishment, theregiving them advice as to fore, when a young musical where to go, also in the re- voice started to talk to me. moval of siok refugees, that I out of the darkness in Frenoh, had almost forgotten about made rather rich by the slight time and the faot that I was drawl and over-acoentuated in a town about to pass into “o” that Eastern people often enemy hands.

impart to it. Gradually I Saddenly darkness began to found myself caught up in descend quickly, as it always a most astounding tale of does out East, and menacingly, passion, intrigue, and hate, as though it wished to en- the climax of which had taken

place to-day, when the owner stopped, because I saw a look of the voice had freed herself of oustomary fear grow in her from a harem by stabbing its eyes. ... master with “three strokes of All of a sudden there was a & poignard, until he fell back, big flash near us, more flashes, the villain, on to the floor,— and a series of detonations. dead, dead, dead !”.

Men came running down The voice beoame agitated, the road. These were the choked with sobs. The tramp Engineers left behind to blow of feet had almost subsided. up the remainder of the We should have to get on. Turkish ammunition. They I told my groom to follow up had done their work and were the infantry, and that I would clearing off as quickly 88 join him later. Hardly know. possible. Spurts of flame ing what to do with the girl, I lioked out from different parts reached out my hand into the of the town, and a continuous darkness and patted her on the craokling like musketry broke baok, trying to console her with from the piles of burning rifle a few words.

ammunition, A series of surprises followed A limber with several men this aot of mine. The girl's on board, and followed by two arms suddenly closed round officers on horseback, dashed my neck, and her voice sobbed down the street. The officers to me to take her away "out must have seen me, for they of the horror of it all." She called baok, “You had better was obviously terrified, and had look out. . .. Johnny will be murdered the Arab fellow out in the town in a minute." of sheer desperation, and she Waiting no longer, I pioked did not want to fall into the up the girl (she was so light), hands of the Turks.

placed her in front of the saddle, I was about to give her some and mounted behind her, vague answer, when the moon Aminute later we were rose and I found myself gazing careering wildly down the ziginto eyes so dark as in the zag road. Turning a sudden silver light to appear jet-black, corner that took us on to a set in a soft oval face, pale strip of road beneath the town, beneath a bronzed olive com. I looked up to see several plexion. No wonder men had flashes overhead. A stone, fought over this girl. She was kioked ap I thought by the like a soft breeze out of the horse's fore-hoof, stung me Arabian desert whence she oruelly in the calf. I experihad travelled. And I, who had enoed & violent momentary not seen a beautiful woman for pain, cursed, and then urged months, had not even spoken on the horse as hard as she to any woman in that land of could go. exile, bent down impulsively · · · · · to kiss that little red quivering Moments of exoitement are mouth, more as one would kiss apt afterwards to become a ohild than anything else. I blurred in one's memory.

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