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apper lite gardens, and

of the

pastoried building of sinister

marble halls, of lofty and many a Turkish private house. luxurious rooms filled with all The only really spacious room the riches of the East, of kiosks is the audience-chamber of the and fountains of plashing Haremlik, where at Bairam water, of all the appartenanoes and on other great festivals of the Arabian Nights. The the sultans received the ladies reality is very different from of the palace. At one end of this, and very much more inter- the hall is a throne for the esting. Far from being a sub- sultan, and above the throne session of vast and symmetrioal & musicians' gallery. The apartments, the Haremlik is room is surmounted by a lofty & veritable rabbit-warren-& dome, and the walls are beautijumble of small oourts, corri. fully tiled. Close by are the dors, narrow stairoases, and sohool - rooms of the little innumerable tiny rooms. The princes and princesses, also apper stories, overlooking the tiled, but otherwise now bare of Seraglio gardens, are built of furniture and decoration. wood, and the walls of the Here, too, is a semi-detached rooms, too, are decorated with two-storied building, outwardly ro0000 woodwork panelling. of great beauty but of sinister The lower floors are of more memories. It has a widely solid construotion. The stone overhanging roof, no windows walls are enormously thiok, on the ground floor, and only and the rooms lined with the a fow, which are heavily most delightful of Persian and barred, on the apper floor, Kutabia tiles, the designs differ- The outside of this building ing in every room. It is these is faced with mellow Kutahia tiles which are the most typioal tiles from the ground to the and pleasing feature of the overhanging roof, and exterHaremlik; they give to it an nally it is perhaps the loveliest, old-world Eastern atmosphere as it is probably the least. far truer than the pseudo- known part of the Haremlik, orientalism suggested by pio- For this delight to the eye tures of gauze-olad odalisques bears a forbidding name, the eating sweetmeats on oushioned Qafes, which means "the divang. Of furniture there is cage,” and even now the little left, and what remains is interior is inaccessible. Here, for the most part Louis XV. A in this gilded cage, the heirsfew good specimens of the old apparent to the throne of Seatari velvets and Brussa Turkey were immured with brocades have been preserved, the palace girls and pages set and cover sofas evidently made apart for their service, in all in France. The smallness of other respeots rigidly secluded the rooms is a constant source from contact with the world of surprise. Even the sultan's until released by the sultan's famous Turkish bath, where death. They then emerged, Selim the Sot slipped and blinking, as it were, at the broke his skull when over-full daylight and utterly ignorant of Cyprus wine, is no larger of affairs; and from the sethan the baths to be found in olusion of a narrow prison

ving is internis gilded ca go throne..

were abruptly transferred to not only the walls bat also the the supreme power over a vast ceiling are a harmony of olive Empire. This vicious system green and turquoise blue, persisted oven to the present masterpieces of the oraftomen century. From his birth in of Kutahia and Nicæa. 1844 to the year 1909, when he We will now leave the 8100eeded his brother 'Abdu'l Haremlik for the northernHamid, the late Sultan Reshad most part of the palaco, for had lived in the striot confine. that lofty platesa, dotted with ment of his palace, to all in- sumptuous kiosks, which overtents and purposes a prisoner looks Seraglio Point. Here is till, at the age of sixty-four, he the Khirqa-i-Sherif Odasi, a ascended the throne of 'Osman. mosque - like pavilion faced

Vying in beauty and interest with slabs of porphyry, where with the Qafes is the portion are preserved the rolios of of the Haremlik which was the Prophet, whose possession formerly the official residence constitutes one of the Sultan's of the Chief of the Blaok titles to the Khalifate. A Eunaohs. Until the beginning terrace of gleaming marble, of the nineteenth century, the setting for one of those when Saltan Mahmud II., in delightful formal eastern the course of his reforms, ponds, oonnoots the Khirqa-i. swept away what was left of Sherif Odasi with the Baghdad medieval Turkey, the Qizlar Kiosk, which commemorates Aghasi (Master of the Girls) the oapture of Baghdad by was one of the highest digni- Sultan Murad IV. in 1638. taries of the Empire. He It is probably no exaggeration ranked next, in faot, to the to say that the Baghdad Kiosk Grand Vizier, was a pasha of represents the high-water mark three tails, and as his appan- of later Ottoman art. In age administered the imperial Aqshehir, in Sivas, and, above mosques and the holy oities all, in Konia are the arohiteoMeooa and Medina. His tural chefs d'oeuvre of the offioial dress, before Mahmud Seljaq Turks, in Brussa those replaced tarbans and flowing of the earlier Ottomans. This robes with fez and Stambuli delioate little masterpiece on frook-ooat, was a white gown the heights of Stambul seems trimmed with sable, and a to have been the swan-gong of white oylindrioal head-drons Turkish builders and decorators more than two feet high. His before the decadence set in former quarters comprise & and infeoted East and West wing of the Haremlik near the alike. The interior, with its Seraglio tower, consisting of perfeot proportions and ex. four emallish rooms, two on quisite decoration, is & har. the ground floor, and two ap a monious blend of tiles, rare short flight of steps. Hore, fabrios, and woodwork inlaid again, tiles are the predomi- with ivory and tortoise-shell. nant feature, covering the Lovely within and without, walls and floors of rooms and the Baghdad Kiosk is a fragpassages; in the dining-room, ment of that gorgeous East

2009

which is more often talked on the Asiatio shore of the about than seen.

Bosphords; and when that Two pavilions below the too disappears, the Seraglio Baghdad Kiosk afford interest will remain the sole reposiing examples of a Turkish in- tory in the capital of a oharmterior of the eighteenth con- ing and vanished tradition. tury. The first is the wooden One last vestige of the old kiosk of Grand Vizier Kara palace ceremonial survives in Mustafa Pagha, & relative conneotion with the serving by marriage of the Kiöprülüs, of coffee, which is offered in who for fifty years might the Mejidieh Kiosk to those almost have been called a who visit the Seraglie. The dynasty of hereditary Grand coffee - pot, whioh is of er. Viziers. The other is the amelled silver gilt, is carried little house that served as by a palace servant in a sort offioial residence for the Sal- of censor of the same mate. tan's Chief Physioian. Here rial. Another servant bears a are preserved, 88 they were tray with the oups and their when last in use, the furniture holders (zarfs), the cups being and stook-in-trade of this im- of delioate egg-shell china, and portant functionary. In one the zarfs of gold, enorusted oorner is spread his divan, with rose diamonds. The tray surmounted by & fine old is covered with a square of Persian rag; in another lie proe silk, gold embroidered, his chibuqs, of enormous whioh, when the coffee is being length; in & cupboard are poured out, is laid by a third his medicine bottles and the servant on the tray-bearer's seals with which they were left shoulder. It is an interolosed to guard against the esting little ceremony in its risk of poison. In & large way, albeit a pale shadow of oase is the apparatus for the what the Seraglio has known confection of the ma'jun- & in its days of glory. Gone sweetmeat which it was the are the pioturesque funotionChief Physician's privilege to aries of the most la vish Court present to the Sultan and in history, gone the thousands his Court at the festival of of Palace guards and pagos, Nevruz, in return for sub- of Bostanjis and Paltajio and stantial gifts of money. Owing Chaushes and Solaqi, and to the almost aniversal use heaven knows what beside. of wood as building material, No more do the Chief Turban. and to the frequenoy of fires winder and the Aigrette-keeper and earthquakes, few other adorn the Court, the Chief specimens of old Turkish do- Nightingale - keeper and the mestio architecture survive in Keeper of the Parrots attend Constantinople and its neigh- to the welfare of their oharges. bourhood. Practioally the only The traditions of the pomp of one of importance is the now contaries are in the hands of deoaying Kiosk of Husein three servants in black frookPasha near Anatoli Hissar, coats.

FROM THE OUTPOSTS.

UP JEBEL MURRA: A TRIP IN WESTERN DARFUR.

SOME 250 miles south-west thousand gallons each. Dur. of Khartoum as the orow flies, ing the khareef, or rainy but over 420 miles by railway, season, whioh here lasts about lies El Obeid, the capital of two months in the year, the the province of Kordofan and nativos dam up the water the southern terminus of the round the trees and fill them Sudan Government railway from the shallow pools thus system.

formod, dipping up the water A further 450 miles west of by means of goat-skin dilwers El Obeid, and nearly 1000 and pouring it in from the top. miles, by road and rail, from These natural tanks, besides proKhartoum, lies El Fasher, the viding water for the villagers capital of Darfur, the largest themselves and their cattle, and most recently coquired are also a great source of profit provinoo of the Anglo-Egypt to them, in that, during the ian Sudan.

dry season, they sell the water El Obeid and El Fasher are to wayfarers at high rates. conneoted by a road which The wayfarers along this rans through an almost water- road are mostly Fellata pilless desert country,-an enor. grims tramping from Nigeria mous waste of rooky jebels and the West Coast right and broad sandy plains sparsely across Afrioa to Mecoa, and covered with small bushes and are themselves worthy of note. stunted trees. In Kordofan Men, women, and children itself the gam trade supports start on this long journey, and numbers of people, but, past taking their few goods and Nahud, the native villages, or obattels on their heads maroh hillas, are few and far between, thousands of miles through and, with the exception of anknown lands, braving all small flooks of sheep and herds kinds of dangers in order of oattle, the only animals to to make their pilgrimage. be seen are gazelle, and here They work their way, stopand there a solitary ostrich. ping here and there antil

For most of this distanoe the they have accumulated suffi. few inhabitants are entirely oient funds to carry them on dependent for water on that to the next place, often taking stored in the hollow trunks two or three years on the of groves of tebeldi trees, journey. Many of them settle

These trees, which by a wise and never reach their goal, dispensation of Providence are others die; some, having generally found in waterless reached Moooa, are seized by places, are of great girth, and the Arabs and sold as slaves in many cases hold over & -though cases of this sort are time or mord down upon

in

highest paril

loss frequent now; still more provement, and some hundred stop and settle on the way miles or so south-west entirely back, and never see their homes changes its character. It is in again. Yet, year in and year this area that Jebel Murra, the out, they can be seen tramping highest range in this part of through this hot desert belt Africa, raises its treble peaks with their families, often going to about 7000 feet above seatwo or more days without level; while, on the mountain, water, looked down apon by but some 2000 feet below its all with whom they oome in highest point, nestle the myscontact, yet in their zeal, mis- terious Deriba Lakes. placed though it may be, The country round, fall of showing themselves better interest as it is, is by ne men than most of their 06- means the Afrios which the religionists in this part of name of Rider Haggard would the world, and an example to bring to mind. people of other religions in It is a vast expanse of roll. other parts.

ing bush-country, out by great Accustomed as one is to ro. wadis which flow swiftly in gard the samel as a wonderful the khareef, but are dry for animal because it goes for a the rest of the year. Their few days without water, it tree-covered banks are incomes as a surprise to find habited by chattering monkeys that the herds and flooks in and vivid green parrots. For those dry wastes are only the rest, away from the wadis, watered every two or three the native tracks wind through days, that & native donkey stunted bash, leafless except in will plod along with his load the rains, while in every direofor a similar time without tion rise bare rooky jebels. A water, and that the gazelle certain amount of game is to here do not drink from khareef be found-lion, elephant, and to khareef, a period of very buffalo, herds of bartebeeste nearly ten months.

and tiang, the much-soughtThe only means of transport after kudo, as well as many along this road from El Obeid kinds of smaller game; but, to Fasher is by oamel, and the compared with other parts of three weeks' journey it entails, Afrioa, they are not numerons. plodding along for four or five The dwarfs and naked sav. hours each night and morning, ages of Rider Haggard fame and lying ap under tree or are here replaced by a comtent during the heat of the paratively mild, meek, and day, is a very tiring one, and well-mannered race—the Furs, one which is absolutely devoid who, one is surprised to find, of interest for long stretohes. are not only all fully olothed

Once arrived in Fasher, the men in flowing garwhioh is a large native town ments of native-made daman. prettily situated among trees our, and the women in a blue on both sides of a khor, the material,—but they also have a country shows signs of im- system of government among

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