CONTROVERSY WITH ARABS.

7

at the same time, that, as I was an Englishman, I could procure as much of those articles as I desired for nothing. Perceiving now that they wished to detain me, I frankly told them, that if they would allow me to pursue my journey, I would give them some dates and coffee; but on the contrary, if I returned, they would not only lose these things, but incur the displeasure, perhaps the punishment, of the Montefik Sheikh. This had the desired effect; they immediately accepted some coffee, made the usual salutation,* and returned to their homes. †

Half a mile beyond Zetchiah is a ruined mosque, around which are a few solitary date

* The Bedoweens retain a great many of the customs and manners we read of in sacred as well as profane history; being, except in their religion, the same people they were two or three thousand years ago. Upon meeting one another they still use the primitive salutation, "Peace be unto you;" though they have made it a religious compliment, as if they said, "Be in a state of salvation."-Shaw's "Travels in Barbary."

+ The Sheikh of this village pays 50,000 piastres, (eyne) or 45001. yearly to the Montefiks. This sum is collected

trees; and nearly opposite is a canal, which is navigable as far as the city of Howizah; it runs E. N. E. and contains a large body of

water.

On the following day, shortly after sunrise, we arrived at a tomb, which is called by the Arabs Ozair: I could collect nothing concerning its history, from my rude attendants. A good burnt-brick wall surrounds it, on passing which I found a spacious domed cloister inclosing a square sepulchre, containing

from the Bagdad trading boats and the cultivation of an extensive tract on either side of the Tigris. They also plunder all those who are so unfortunate as to fall into their

power.

JEWISH PILGRIMAGE.

9

the ashes of Ezra, a Jewish saint. The interior is paved with the same sky-blue tile as adorns the dome, which affords a very brilliant appearance, particularly when the sun shines upon it. Over the doorway, are two tablets of black marble, filled up with Hebrew writing. The appellative Ozair has, I suspect, been assigned to it by the Jews, who erroneously suppose the spot to contain the bones of the prophet Ezra. Hither they perform a yearly pilgrimage from Bussorah, when the natives of the country waylay, rob, and strip them, and in this state the pilgrims invariably return to their homes. Were any resistance offered, three or four Arabs would think no more of depriving a dozen Jews of their lives, than of eating so many onions. * In fact, the Arab is here absolute master-no law (human or divine) restrains him; if he has not what he wants, he takes it, whenever and wherever he can find

* It is a vulgar and common saying in the country, that when you are in the company of Arabs, much less at their mercy, your life is not worth an onion.

it; if refused, he uses force; if resisted, the opponent is murdered: thus lives the independent, restless freebooter of the Desert.*

This day, October 25th, a prickly shrub, called in the country the Camel's thorn, † was so thick, I could scarcely continue my route along the banks of the river. In the short space of eighteen hours we travelled successively towards every point of the compass, proving how

*

Ishmael lived by prey and rapine in the wilderness ; and his posterity have all along infested Arabia and the neighbouring countries with their robberies and incursions. They live in a state of continual war with the rest of the world, and are both robbers by land, and pirates by sea. As they have been such enemies to mankind, it is no wonder that mankind have been enemies to them again; that several attempts have been made to extirpate them; and even now, as well as formerly, travellers are forced to go with arms, and in caravans or large companies, and to march and keep watch and guard like a little army, to defend themselves from the assaults of these freebooters.-Bishop Newton's "Dissertation on the Prophecies."

+ See Appendix, C.-Camels browse upon it in preference to any other herb. The mastication of it produces a frothy salivation at the mouth, which appears to give great pleasure to the animal.-Vide Morier's "Travels," vol. ii. chap. vii. page 115.

BENI LAM ARABS.

11

tedious and prolonged is an advance into Babylonia, when following the course of this serpentine stream. Still continuing along the banks, I met with buffaloes plunging into the water, and saw large flocks of the pelican* spreading their silvery wings, and perching on the backs of these animals, which easily accommodated themselves to the incumbrance.

At three, p. m. we saw an encampment of Arabs crossing the river on inflated sheep-skins. An hour after, I passed through the camp of the Beni Lam Arabs, extending eight miles along the eastern bank: from them I met with no disrespect; curiosity was their predominant feeling, to gratify which they impeded my progress by pressing forward with unhesitating freedom. The men and women appeared extremely poor, and with their children, horses, mules, dogs, and asses, huddled together beneath their long goat-hair tents, formed a motley group of objects, of the true Syntactical

The Pelecanus fuscus of Linnæus.