or quiver, containing a bow and three or four arrows, with a set of which they willingly parted, on being presented with a knife in exchange. They at first received us with a mixture of stupidity and apprehension; but both wore off in a few minutes, on our making them understand that we wished to go to their habitations. With this request they complied without hesitation, tripping along before us for above two miles over very rough ground, and crossing one or two considerable streams running from a lake into the sea. This they performed with so much quickness that we could with difficulty keep up with them, though they good-naturedly stopped now and then till we overtook them. We were met on our way by two women, from twenty to twenty-five years of age, having each a child at her back; they, too, accompanied us to their tent, which was situated on a high part of the coast overlooking the sea. It consisted of a rude circular wall of loose stones, from six to eight feet in diameter and three in height, in the centre of which stood an upright pole made of several pieces of fir-wood, lashed together by thongs, and serving as a support to the deer skins that formed the top covering.

"Soon after our arrival, we were joined by a good-looking and modest girl of about eight and a boy of five years old. Of these nine persons, which were all we now saw, only the elder man and two of the children belonged to this tent, the habitations of the others, being a little more inland. The faces of the women were round, plump, tatooed, and in short, completely Esquimaux. During the cursory examination of these people's dresses, which we had now an opportunity of making, I observed nothing beyond the peculiarities which have been repeatedly described, except that the tails of the women's jackets were of unusual length as well as breadth. The kayak, or canoe, belonging to this establishment was carefully laid on the rocks close to the sea-side, with the paddle and the man's mittens in readiness beside it. The timbers were entirely of wood, and covered as usual with seal-skin. Its length was nineteen feet seven inches, and its extreme breadth two feet; it was raised a little at each end, and the rim or gunwale of the circular hole in the middle was high, and made of whalebone. A handsome seal-skin was smoothly laid within as a seat, and the whole was sown and put together with great neatness. The

paddle was double, made of fir, and the ends of the blades tipped with bone, to prevent splitting.

"The fire-place in the tent consisted of three rough stones, carelessly placed on end on one side, and they had several pots of lapis ollaris for culinary purposes. These people seemed to us altogether more cleanly than any Esquimaux we had before seen, both in their persons and in the interior of their tents, in neither of which we could discover much of that rancid and pungent smell, which is in general so offensive to Europeans.

"One instance of their cleanliness, which now occurred, deserves, perhaps, to be noticed, both because this is justly considered rather a rare quality among the Esquimaux, as well as to shew in what way they do sometimes exercise it.. When leaving their tent to return to our boats, I desired one of the seamen to tie the articles we had purchased into a single bundle for the convenience of carrying them, but the elder of the two male Esquimaux, who watched the man thus employed, would not permit it to be done without excluding a pot, which, as he explained by wiping the lamp-black off with one of his fingers, would soil a clean seal-skin jacket that formed part of the bundle.

"Among the few domestic utensils we saw in the tent, was the woman's knife of the Greenlanders described by Crantz, and resembling in its semi-circular shape, that used by shoe-makers in England. The most interesting article, however, was a kind of bowl, exactly similar to that obtained by Captain Lyon from the natives of Hudson's Strait, being hollowed out of the root of the musk-ox's horn. As soon as I took the cup in my hand, the boy, who was our first companion, and had since been our constant attendant, pronounced the word oomingmuk, thus affording an additional confirmation to that obtained on a former voyage, of the musk-ox being the animal described by the natives of the west coast of Greenland, as having occasionally, though rarely been seen in that country...

"As soon as the Esquimaux became a little more familiar with us, they repeatedly asked for sowik (iron); in answer to which we gave them to understand that they must accompany us to our boats, if they wished to obtain any of this precious article.

up with us, and the women a short distance behind. The whole of the children carried bundles of the branches of ground willow, which we had just before seen them bring in for their own use, and which they seemed to consider as an article of barter that might be acceptable to us. As we returned, I noticed a quantity of the ledum pelustre, and having plucked some of it, gave it to a boy to carry; after which, though he very much disliked its smell, he gathered every root of it that we came to, and deposited it at our tents. This lad was tineommonly quick and clever in com prehending our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree of good humour and docility, which on our short acquain tance, made him a great favourite among us.

"We had hitherto been much pleased with our acquaintance, who were cer tainlya gond humeured doesnt sort of peo⚫ ple. We therefore loaded them with presants, and endeavoured to amuse them by showing the manner of rowing our boats, which were hauled upon the beach. While the men and children were occupied in observing this, the women were no less busily employed near the tents in pilfering and conveying into their boots some of our cups, spoons, and other articles, such as they could conveniently secrete. This they accomplished with so much dexterity, that no suspicion would have been excited of their dishonesty had not Mr. Sheoch fortunately missed a cup which was required for supper. A general search being instituted in consequence, and the cargo of the women's boots brought back to our tents, I directed all our presents to be likewise taken from the two offenders, and dismissing the whole party with great appearance of indignation, this put an end for the present to our communication with these people."

Proceeding farther along the coast, considerable remains of Esquimaux residence were visible, and they were much astonished at finding among the stones at least a dozen pair of mittens and socks. On the 8th of October, the thermometer being about zero, the ice fast closing in upon them, and the darkness at least twelve hours daily, the crews of the vessels were employed in sawing a canal through the ice, and establishing themselves in winter quarters. The extent of coast newly discovered, in the course of the eight weeks preceding, mounted to more than two hundred eagues, and they entertained sanguine

hopes of being able in the following season, to push along the north eastern boundary of America.

"The

As a source of rational amusement to the men during the monotonous dreariness of a Polar Winter, Capt. Parry proposed to the officers of both ships to set on foot a series of theatrical entertainments. Capt. Lyon was appointed manager, and some preparation for this purpose having been made previously to leaving England, every thing was soon arranged for performing a play once a fortnight on board the Fury. Rivals,' "The Poor Gentleman, "Raising the Wind," "A Roland for an Oliver, ""The Mayor of Garratt,' and "The Mock Doctor," were among the pieces performed. Just before the Expedition left England a large and handsome phantasmagoria, or magic lanthorn, was presented to Capt. P. for the use of the Expedition by a lady who persisted in keeping her name a secret, hud afforded a fund of amusement fully answering the expectations of the donor. A

school was established in which the sailors were improved in reading and writing, and divine service was regularly performed by the Chaplain.

"What with reading, writing, making and calculating observations, observing the various natural phenomena, and taking the exercise necessary to preserve our health, nobody I believe ever felt any symptoms of ennui during our continuance in winter quarters. Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratification to several among us, I may mention the musical parties we were enabled to muster, which assembled on stated evenings throughout the winter alternately, in Capt. Lyon's cabin, and my own more skilful amateurs in music; might well have smiled at these our humble concerts; but it will not incline them to think less of the science they admire to be assured that, in these remote and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished us with the most pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable of affording: for independently of the mere gratification afforded to the ear by music, there is perhaps scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in whose mind its sound is not more or less connected with "his far distant home." There are always some remembrances which render them inseparable, and those associations are to be desired which, while we are engaged in the performance of our duty, can still occasionally transport us Inte

us.

the social circle of our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll between With our time thus occupied, our comforts so abundant, and the prospect seaward so enlivening, it would indeed have been our own faults had we felt any thing but enjoyment in our present state, and the most lively hopes and expectations for the future.

"On the morning of the 1st February, it was reported to me that a number of strange people were seen to the westward, coming towards the ships over the ice. On directing a glass towards them, we found them to be Esquimaux, and also discovered some appearance of huts on shore, at the distance of two miles from the ships in the same direction. I immediately set out, accompanied by Capt. Lyon, an officer from each ship, and two of the men, to meet the natives, who to the number of five-andtwenty, were drawn up in a line abreast, and still advanced slowly towards us. As we approached nearer they stood still remaining as before, in a compact line, from which they did not move for some time after we reached them.

Nothing could exceed their quiet and orderly behaviour on this occasion, which presented a very striking contrast with the noisy demeanour of the Natives of Hudson's Straits. They appeared at a distance to have arms in their hands, but what we had taken for bows and spears proved to be only a few blades of whalebone, which they had brought either as a peace-offering or for barter, and which we immediately purchased for a few nails and beads. Some of the women, of whom there were three or four, as well as two children in this party, having handsome clothes on, which attracted our attention; they began, to our utter astonishment and consternation, to s.rip, though the therometer stood at 239 below zero.

We

soon found, however, that there was nothing so dreadful in this as we at first imagined, every individual among them having on a complete double suit. The whole were of deer skin, and looked both clean and comfortable.

"However quietly the Esquimaux had awaited our approach, and still continued to conduct themselves, there was as little apprehension or distrust visible in their countenances or manner as it was possible for one strange set of persons to evince on meeting another. As soon therefore as we had bought all that they had to sell, and made them a number of valuable presents, we ex

pressed by sigus our wish to accompany them to their huts, with which they willingly complied, and we immediately set out together. On our way, the Esquimaux were much amused by our dogs, especially by a large one of the Newfoundland breed, that had been taught to fetch and carry---a qualification which seemed to excite unbounded astonishment; and the children could scarce contain themselves for joy, when Capt. Lyon gave them a stick to throw for the dog to bring back to them.

"A child of five or six years old thus amusing itself on such a day and in such a climate, formed by no means the least characteristic figure of our motley group. An old and infirm man supported by a stick, which indeed he much needed, was soon left behind us, his companions seeming to take no notice of his infirmities, and leaving him without reluctance or apology, to find his way home at his own pace. When we had approached the huts within a few hundred yards, three of the Esquimaux went on before us, having previously explained that they were going to confine their dogs, lest being frightened at our coming, they should run away.

"When it is remembered that these habitations were fully within sight of the ships, and how many eyes were continually on the look-out among us, for any thing that could afford variety or interest in our present situation, our surprise may in some degree be imagined at finding an establishment of five huts, with canoes, sledges, dogs, and above sixty men, women, and children, as regularly and to all appearance as permanently fixed as if they had occupied the same spot for the whole winter

"If the first view of the exterior of this little village was such as to create astonishment, that feeling was in no small degree heightened on accepting the invitation soon given us to enter these extraordinary houses, in the construction of which we observed not a single material was used but snow and ice. After creeping through two low passages, each having its arched doorway, we came to a small circular apartment, of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. From this three doorways also arched, and of larger dimensions, than the others, led us into as many inhabited apartments, one on each side, and the other facing us as we entered. The interior of the hut presented a scene no less novel than interesting. The women were seated on the beds at the

sides of the huts, each having her little fire-place or lamp, with all her domestic articles about her; the children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs, except the female ones, which were indulged with a part, slunk out past us in dismay.

"The construction of this inhabited part of the huts was similar to that of the outer apartment, being a dome formed by separate blocks of snow laid with great regularity, and no small art, each being cut into the shape requisite to form a substantial arch from seven to eight feet high in the centre, and having no support whatever, but what this principle of building supplied. I shall not here further describe the peculiarities of these curious edifices, remarking only that a cheerful and sufficient light was admitted to them by a circular window of ice, neatly fitted into the roof of each apartment.

"We found our new acquaintance as desirous of pleasing us, as we were ready to be pleased, so that we were soon on good terms with them all.

"While we were engaged in examining every part of their huts, their whole behaviour was in the highest degree orderly, respectful, and good-humoured. They eagerly received the various articles that were given them either in exchange for their own commodities, or as presents, but on no occasion importuned us for any thing, nor did the well known sound of " pilletay" once escape from them. We had also great reason to believe that these people possessed in no ordinary degree the quality of honesty---a quality the more desirable to us, as we had on shore besides the house and observatory, all our boats and other articles, which had they been disposed to pilfer it would have required all our vigilance to guard. If we dropped a glove or a handkerchief with out knowing it, they would immediately direct our attention to it by pointing, and if the owner had left the hut before they discovered it, would run after him to return it. Numberless instances of a similar kind occurred in the course of our subsequent communication with them, some of which I shall hereafter have an opportunity of relating.

"After remaining with them a couple of hours, and proposing to spend the following day amongst them, we set out on our return to the ships. Being desirous of trying their disposition to part with their children, I proposed to buy a fine lad, named Toologak, for the

very valuable consideration of a handsome butcher's knife. His father apparently understanding our meaning, joyfully accepted the knife, and the boy ran into the hut to fetch his mittens, which seemed to be all that he cared for in leaving his home. He then set off with us in high spirits, and at first assisted in drawing a sledge we had purchased to carry our things, but as he began by our additional signs more clearly to understand our true meaning, he gradually relaxed in his zeal to accompany our party, and being afterwards overtaken by a number of his companions, he took an opportunity to slink off among some hummocks of ice, so that when we arrived on board Toolooak was missing.

"On our reaching the ships, these people expressed much less surprise and curiosity than might naturally have been expected on their first visit, which may perhaps in some measure be attributed to their being in reality a less noisy kind of people than most of the Esquimaux to whom we had before been accustomed. Quiet and orderly however as they were disposed to be, this first visit shewed them to be as fond of merriment as their countrymen are usually considered, for on Captain Lyon's ordering his fiddler up on the Hecla's deck, they danced with the men for an hour, and then returned in high glee and good humour to their tents.'

A very friendly intercourse was soon established between the ships and the natives, and a female named Higliuk, by far the most intelligent of these Esquimaux, became a very great favourite with the ships' companies. She ap peared to have a great taste for music, and was invited on board the Fury, to give the officers a specimen of the music of her country. In return she was treated with some English music, and it was feared she would have gone into fits with joy, at recognizing her own name introduced into some of the songs for the sake of pleasing her.

Their mode of subsistence is very precarious, being entirely dependent on the seals, &c. that they may take, for food; and having little or no care to lay by stock for time of need. In fact, it frequently happened that they were in such dreadful want, as to make it an act of. charity for the ships to distribute their bread-dust among them to prevent absolute starvation. The youth named Too looak displayed a very great desire to become acquainted with all that could

be shewn him, and Capt. P. put the question to him whether he would go with him to Europe, but he gave a decisive negative to the proposal, eagerly repeating the word Ña-o (No) half a dozen times.

It was now decided that a party commanded by Captain Lyou should explore the coast on foot, and they endeavoured to tempt a native to accompany them as a guide but in vain, and the expedition set out upon such information as could be collected from them, but, unhappily a few hours after their starting, a strong wind, and deep snow drift set in, which had nearly proved fatal to the whole party.

They set off under the impression that fine open weather might be depended upon, but from the very hour of CaptainLyon's departure, the thermometer fell rapidly, and the wind increased so much, that upon the whole Captain Parry says it proved one of the most inclement nights for people to be exposed to, that they had, as yet, experienced. "It is, (says Capt. P.) scarcely less difficult to imagine than to describe the contrast between exposure to all the horrors of such tremendous inclemency, and the fireside comforts we on board were enjoying."

It would be impossible to give our readers any just idea of the perilous situation in which Capt. Lyon and his party were so quickly exposed after their separation from the ships than by his own narrative, which we insert :--

"At seven A.M. on the 15th, we proceeded towards the hills to the northward of our winter quarters. A strong wind arose soon after our starting; and blew directly in our faces, bringing thick clouds of drift snow with it. On ascending the sloping ground, we found the sledge too much for us, and it was with great difficulty dragged through the soft snow, in which we waded knee deep.

"The wind now increased to a heavy gale, our utmost view was bounded to twenty yards, and every time of resting to take breath we all received severe frost bites. The sun having risen above the thickest part of the drift snow, enabled us to steer a direct northerly course, for we expected in that direction to arrive at a small bay which had been observed by Capt. Parry and myself on our first arrival.

"At tenwe were confirmed in our conjecture, by descending suddenly and arriving at a quantity of grounded ice, directed by which, we made our way

round the head of the bay, and arrived on the side of a small hill a little after eleven. The extreme severity of the weather determined me on pitching our tent, and waiting until better weather, when we could from the rising ground command a view of our future route.

"When our tent had been pitched an hour, and our party were all smoking to promote warmth, the temperature at our feet was 1 below Zero, and over head amongst the smoke 70° above; in the outer air it was 50 below, which, although of itself sufficiently cold, was rendered doubly piercing by the strength of the wind. John Lee was soon seized by a fit of shivering and severe pains in the loins, to check which we put him into his blanket, and covered him with clothes, which could ill be spared. A deep hole being dug in the snow, a fire was made with the greatest difficulty, and we were made comfortable for a time by a warm mess of soup. I afterwards found that it would be possible, by extending our excavation to make a cavern in which we might pass the night for it would have been next to impossible to continue in the tent.

"Some of the men were, therefore, set to work, and had thus a good opportunity of warming themselves, and our only shovel was lent from one to the other as a particular favour. At 2, P.M. the outer air was 15 below, and Zero was the temperature of the tent, when Arnold's pocket chronometer stopped from the effects of the cold. By 4, P.M. the cavern was finished, and of sufficient size to contain us all in a sitting posture.After taking some hot soup, Lee was removed to the warmest place we could select, and making a fire, we managed by its smoke which had no vent to raise the temperature to 20°, while outside it had fallen to 25°. below. We now cleaned our clothes as well as possible from the thick coating of snow-drift, and closing the entrance of the cave with blocks of snow, we crept into our blanket bags and huddled close together to endeavour to procure a little sleep. Our small dwelling had a very close feel, which was, perhaps, not a little augmented by the reflection that a spade alone could liberate us after a night's drift of snow, and our roof being two feet thick, and not of the most secure description, there was no small probability of its breaking down on us, in which case, confined as we were in our bags, and lying almost upon each other we should have but little chance of extri