THE occasion and plan of this second journey in the Holy Land are set forth in the beginning of the introductory Section.
During the more important part of the journey, my companion in travel was, as before, the Rev. Eli Smith, D. D. He went with me to Jerusalem and the vicinity of Hebron; and thence northwards as far as to Hasbeiya. From Hasbeiya the Rev. W. M. Thomson accompanied me to Bâniâs and back; and then, on the way to Damascus, until within a day's journey of that city. From Damascus, the Rev. S. Robson became my companion to Ba'albek and around the northern end of Lebanon to the cedars, and so to Beirût.
That very much of the success and comfort of the journey depended on the long and familiar acquaintance possessed by my companions with the language and character of the people, I need not here repeat. Each of them kept his own separate journal of daily occurrences and observations. These were kindly left in my hands; and have been freely used in the preparation of this volume. To these friends, the public, as well as myself, are under lasting obligations.
The present volume is strictly supplementary to the former BIBLICAL RESEARCHES; and is published in connection with the new edition of that work. It is also issued separately, for the convenience of those who already possess the first edition of the Researches.
The observations made during this second journey, rendered necessary a new construction of the Maps of Palestine. This has been done by Kiepert of Berlin, with his accustomed scienVOL III.-A*
tific skill. It will be seen, that the routes of the different years very rarely coincide. The other maps also are republished; that of Sinai with some corrections; and the interior of Jerusalem is given according to the Plans of Tobler and the English engineers.
In the Index of Arabic Names and Words, the Arabic letters have not been employed. These are sometimes important to the scholar; but never to the great mass of general readers. Yet the system of notation in respect to Arabic names will be found sufficient, in nearly every case, to indicate to scholars the proper Arabic letters; and this is strictly all that is required. This notation, however, is fully carried out only in the Index of Arabic Names and Words.-The slight variations which occur in the spelling of several names, have arisen from like variations in the popular pronunciation.
For an exposition of the system of notation above-mentioned, the reader is referred to the specifications immediately following the Preface in the new edition of the former Researches, Vol. I; as also to Dr Smith's Essay on the Pronunciation of the Arabic, in the Appendix to the first edition, Vol. III. pp. 89–111.
With this volume closes, of course, the record of my personal observations in the Holy Land. The principles according to which it has been prepared, are the same with those, which lie at the basis of my former work. If it shall be deemed a worthy supplement to that work, I shall be satisfied. To these my BIBLICAL RESEARCHES in the Holy Land, the fruit of thirty years of preparation, and of personal travels in 1838 and 1852, I can hope to add nothing more. The work is now published as a whole, and in a permanent form.
The great object of all these travels and labours has been, as formerly announced, to collect materials "for the preparation of a systematic work on the physical and historical geography of the Holy Land." To this work, so much needed, should my life and health be spared, I hope speedily to address myself.
With the renewed expression of humble gratitude to God, the author here takes leave of his work; praying that HE, who has thus permitted it to be completed, will continue to make it useful for the furtherance of His truth.
Motives and plan of a second journey in Palestine, 1, 2. Occasion, 2. London,
Berlin, 2. Route to Trieste, 2. Fine scenery along the railway, 2, 3. Embark at
Trieste, 3. Straight course to Corfu, 3. Meleda, not Melita, 3. Course around
Greece, 3. Syra, 8. Delay at Smyrna, 3. Antiquities, 4. American missionaries, 4.
Embark at Smyrna, 4. Crowded with deck passengers, 4. Patmos, the Sporades,
coast of Asia Minor, 5. Rhodes, 5. Our track the same as St. Paul's, 6. Cyprus;
Baffa, Paphos, 6. Larnaka, Citium, 7.
BEIRUT. Landing, 7. At home with Dr E. Smith, 7. Plans, 7, 8. Movement
among the Druzes, 8. Prospect, Lebanon, 8, 9. The weather, storms, 9. Beirût
prosperous, 9. Its commerce, 9, 10. Antiquities, 10. Hills around the city, 10.
Roads, 10. Sand-hills, 11. Cape Beirût, 11. Mosk, sarcophagi, 11, 12.
Excursion to Nahr el-Kelb, 12. Nahr Beirût and bridge, 12. Way along the
shore, 13. The pass, 18. Bridge and aqueduct, 13.
Excursion to Deir el-Kŭl'ah, 13. Ruggod ascent of Lebanon, 14. The many ter-
races, 14. Gorge of Nahr Beirût, ancient aqueduct, 14. Site of the convent, 14.
Extensive view, 15. Basin of Nahr Beirut, 15. District el-Metn, 15. Sandstone and
pines, 15. Damascus road and Bhamdûn, 15. Remains of an ancient temple, 15, 16.
Inscriptions, 16, 17. Maronite monks, 17. Beit Miry, horseshoeing, 17. Ancient
aqueduct with tubular stones, 17, 18. Brummâna, Nahr el-Maut, 18.
Excursion to 'Abeih, 18. Solitary place of many sarcophagi, 18, 19. 'Arâmôn,
'Ain Kesûr, 19. Boys' school of the American mission, 20. Examination, 20. Site
of 'Abeih, 20. Basin of the Nahr Dâmûr, 20, 21. Return to Beirût by Shemlân, 21.
The priest Flaminius, 21. Wady Shahrur, its fertility, 21, 22. Traces of the ancient
aqueduct in the plain, 22.
Meeting of the Syrian mission, 22. Letter and invitation from Dr Perkins, 22. New
Arabic version of the Scriptures by Dr Smith, 23. Protestantism in the Turkish em-
pire, 23. Three successive ordinances in that behalf, 24, 25. The mission encour-
aged, 25. Native churches, 25. Chapel in Beirût, services, 25, 26. The mission
cemetery, 26. Grave of Lieut. Dale, 26, 27.
Meet our former ser-
Preparations, 30, 31.
FROM BEIRUT through GALILEE TO 'AKKA.
Pages 33-101.
April 5th. Departure from Beirât, 33. Nahr Ghudîr and Nahr Yâbis, 33. Khân
Khulda, Heldua, 33. Many sarcophagi, 33. Nahr Dâmûr, Tamyras, 34. Râs Sa'dîyeh,
Platanum, 34. Roman road, 34. Neby Yûnas, el-Jiyeh, Porphyreon, 34, 35.—April 6th.
Our tent blown down at night, 35. Early start, Roman road, 35. Sidon, house of
Mr Thomson, 36. Antiquities, 36. Turn east towards Lebanon; character of the
region, 36, 37. Way leads by Hâret Saida, 37. Deir Mukhallis, 38. Encamp at
Kefr Fâlûs, 38.
April 7th. Tokens of rain, 38. Start for Râm, valleys, 38, 39. Rain; take refuge
at a goat-house, 39. Proceed to Rûm; the road bad, 39. Village of Rùm, 39. Tako
refuge in a peasant's house, 39. House described, 39, 40. Furniture and food, 40.
Set off in the rain for Jerjû'a, 40. Difficult road; lose the way, Kaitûleh, 40, 41.
Jebâ'a, 41. Arrive at Jerjû'a; lodge in a peasant's house, 42.-April 8th. Village of
Jerjû'a, 42. Wide view, 42, 43. Chasm of the Zaherâny, Jebel Rihân, Wady Jer-
mŭk, 43. Neby Sâfy, Neby Sijud, Kŭl'at esh-Shŭkîf, 44. House described, 44. Our
host a potter, 44. The old priest, 45. No antiquities, 45. Visit the fountain of the
Zaherâny, 45. Ancient aqueduct to Sidon, 45, 46. Sculptured tablet and inscrip-
tion, 46, 47.
April 9th. Set off for Kŭl'at esh-Shňkif, 47. Long descent; 'Arab Sâlîm, 47.
Bridge over the Zaherâny, 47. Tell Habbûsh, 47, 48. Nebâtiyeh, horseshoeing, 48.
Way to Arnûn, 48, 49. Village of Arnûn, 49. Ascend to the castle, Belfort, 49.
Site and prospect, 49-51. The fortress, 51. Bevelled stones, 52. Dimensions, 52.
Older than the crusades, 52, 53. Way to bridge of Ka'ka'îyeh, 53. Chasm of the
Litany, and bridge, 53.—April 10th. Way up Wady Hujeir, 54.
to reach Kubrikhah, 54. Splendid fields of wheat; tares, 55.
Temple-ruins at Kŭbrîkhah, 55, 56. Tûlin, Khirbet Silim, 56.
guide a horse-thief, 57. Tibnîn, castle and village, 57. Visit to the castle, Sheikhs,
58. A fortress of the crusaders on older foundations, 58. Statistics, 59. Sculptures
on the way to Tyre, 59.—April 11th. High wind; we leave our tent for a house, 59,
60. Easter Sunday; our host secretary of the Beg, 60. House described, GO,
April 12th. Way to Hârîs; brow looking towards Tyre, 61. Wady el-'Ayûn;
turn up to Yâtir, towards Tyre, 61. Antiquities, 61, 62. Return, and follow up
Wady el-'Ayun to Hazîreh, 62. Arch and other antiquities, 62, 63. Not Hazor of
Scripture, 63. Turn S. W. to Râmeh, Ramah of Asher, 63. Sarcophagi, 64.—April
13th. Cry of jackals, 64. Ascend the high hill Belåt, 64. Ancient remains; a tem-
ple? 64, 65. View towards the west, 65, 66. Region rarely visited, 66, 67. Kŭľat
Kurein, 66, 67. A hunter of partridges, 67. Way by 'Aitel to Wady el-'Ayûn and
Rumeish, 67, 68. Adjacent valleys, 68. Way to Kefr Bir'im; cold, 68. We lodge
in the priest's house; described, 69. The village; the night, 69. Remains of two
Jewish synagogues, 70, 71. A place of Jewish pilgrimage, 71.
April 14th. Way to Meirôn, 71, 72. Wadys, Jebel Jermŭk, Jebel 'Adâthir, 72.
Meirón, ancient, 73. Tombs, 73. Ancient synagogue, 74. Ancient towns near, 74.
Way to Beit Jenn, across the mountain, 75. Village of Jermŭk, 75. Descent and
ascent to Beit Jenn, 75, 76. The village, etc. 76. A gorge through the mountain to
el-Bukei'a, 76. Jews there, 76, 77. Head branches of Wady el-Kŭrn, 77. Mountains
not the Asamon of Josephus, 77. Way to Rameh, 77, 78. Fine prospect, 78. Plain
of Râmeh, 78. Descent to Râmeh, the Ramah of Naphtali, 79. Way to Mughar, on
S. E. side of Tell Hâzûr, 79, 80. The village, 80.-April 15th. Visit Khirbet Hâzûr
and Tell Hâzûr, 80, 81. Not Hazor of Scripture, 81. Yâkûk, Hukkok, 81. Wady
and Khirbet Sellâmeh, ancient Selamis, 82. Deir Hanna, 84. 'Arrâbeh, Araba of
Josephus, 83.-April 16th. Remain at 'Arrâbeh, 84.
April 17th. Set off for 'Akka, 84.
85, 86. Deep Wady Sha'ab, 85, 86.
mains, 86, 87. Return and follow down Wady Sha'ab, 87. Arab pic-nic, 87. Kabul,
anc. Cabul, Chabolo, 88. Birweh and Tell Birweh, 88. Plain of 'Akka, 88. Reach
'Akka; lodge with Mr Jemâl; his house and family, 88, 89. Sabbath, 90. View
from housetop, 90, 91.-Features and statistics of 'Akka, 91, 92. 'Akka, Accho, Ptole-
mais, 92. Historical Notices, 92-97. Jezzâr Pasha, his history and cruelties, 97, 98.
Siege of 'Akka by Bonaparte, 98. Taken by Ibrahim Pasha, 99. Bombardment in
1840, 99. Few antiquities, 100.
HAIFA, anc. Sycaminum, 100.
CONVENT ON CARMEL, 100.
April 19th. Set off from 'Akka across the plain towards 'Abilin, 102. Hay-
making, 102. Noble crops, 102. Tell Kisôn, view, 103. 'Amkah, not Beth-emek, 103.
Tell Da❜ük, 103. Tell Kurdâny, source of Nahr Na'mân, the Belus, 104. Bîr Tireh,
104. Tumrah, 104. Ascent, Kaukab, 104. Wely Neby Sa'id over Nazareth, 105.
Head of Wady 'Abilin, hill of Deidebeh, 105. Tell Jefät, Jotapata, 105-107. Valley
of Jiphthah-el, Wady 'Abilin, 107. Valley running from Jefât to el-Bŭttauf, 108.
Kâna, Khirbet Kâna, Cana of Galilee, 108. Kefr Menda, 109. Rummâneh, Rimmon;
Rûmeh, Ruma, 110.-April 20th. Tell Bedawiyeh, 110. Plain of Zebulun, of Asochis,
110, 111. City Asochis, Kefr Menda? 111. Seffùriel, Sepphoris, 111, 112. Ancient
tower, 112. Fountain of Seffürich, 112. Way to Beit Lahm, Bethlehem of Zebulun,
112, 113. Semmûnieh, Simonias; Jebâtha, Gabatha, 113. Jeida, 113. Tell Sham-
mâin, in plain of Esdraelon; encamp, 113, 114. Carmel, roads on its eastern side, 114.
Tell Kaimon, Cammona, Jokneam, 114, 115.
April 21st. Way over the great plain; only partly tilled, 115, 116. Cross the
Makütta', Kishon, 116. Tell el-Mutsellim, prospect, 116, 117. Ta'annuk, Taanach,
117. Lejjûn, stream, Khân, and ruins, 117, 118. The same as ancient Legio and
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