carelessness." Though legally "dry," Portland seemed just then to be practically quite "wet."

As we move about, the charm of Portland's ample waterenvironment is displayed, for almost every street discloses at its end a beautiful vista view over the bay to some distant island or pleasant landscape. The eastern promenade, encircling Munjoy's Hill, where they are constructing a new water-reservoir, gives splendid views over the city and harbor. The town nestles in the depression between this and Bramhall's Hill, two miles westward, rising grandly in the distance and surmounted by the Maine Hospital. All around there is an outlook over Casco Bay and its arms, with the many islands rising pretty and bold, with trees fringing their rocky summits. On the eastern verge of the bay Falmouth Foreside stretches down to the distant ocean, while on the western shore is the broad peninsula terminating in Cape Elizabeth, south of the harbor-entrance. In a beautiful spot on this noble outlook is the monument erected to the founder of Portland, bearing the inscription, "George Cheeves, Founder of Portland, 1699." There are wonderful capabilities in developing this charming spot into a splendid park at small expense, for it has a commanding prospect over one of the most bewitching scenes in America -this island-studded Casco Bay with the ocean beyond. There lies, surmounted by the wide Ottawa House, the famous Cushing's Island, the 'outermost of the archipelago, guarding the entrance from the sea. Upon other islands down the bay are the three forts, two practically abandoned, while the flag flying from the more modern works of Fort Preble shows that we still have an army even in this remote region. The tall white lighthouse beyond guides the mariner into the channel, while nearer to us the breakwater stretches in front of the inner harbor, with the diminutive beacon-light on the end. The arms of the bay spread behind it into the land, making the harbor with its branching creeks, and here, having ample room and rail

way facilities, the wharves and shipping are located in front of the lower parts of the town.

THE SEA-FIGHT.

On Munjoy's Hill is the old cemetery, and here rest alongside each other two noted naval officers of the last war with England-Burrows and Blythe. They commanded the rival war-ships, the American Enterprise and the British Boxer, that fought on Sunday, September 5, 1814, off Pemaquid Point, near the mouth of the Kennebec, the adjacent shores being covered with spectators. The Enterprise captured the Boxer and brought her a prize into Portland harbor. Both commanders were killed in the engagement, and their bodies were brought ashore, each wrapped in the flag he had so bravely defended, and the same honors were paid to both in the double funeral. Longfellow recalls this as a memory of his youth:

"I remember the sea-fight far away,

How it thundered o'er the tide,
And the dead captains as they lay,

In their graves o'erlooking the tranquil bay
Where they in battle died."

Bramhall's Hill has the splendid estate of Portland's leading townsman, some time ago deceased-Brown of sugar-making fame. Around it is the western promenade, overlooking the noble western view. As we stand up here the arm of the bay known as Fore River is at our feet, with the railways coming out of the forests beyond and crossing it to get into the union station, which is almost beneath us, while far away are the ranges of distant hills and the hazy background of New Hampshire, closed in by the cloudlike outlines of the White Mountains, making another view of wondrous beauty. The clangor of the locomotive bells and the roar and rumble of the trains come up from below as we gaze upon this unrivalled land

scape. Thus both upon its eastern and western borders Portland has gorgeous views well worth coming all the way from the Keystone State to see.

FROM PORTLAND TO THE PENOBSCOT.

From Casco Bay we journey across the peninsula to the Androscoggin River at Brunswick through a rolling wooded region, much of it a rough country liberally supplied with steep and vexatious-looking hills. These must be the despair of the farmers, yet they manage to scratch some subsistence out of their fields that seem almost set on end. As Brunswick is approached the surface becomes more level, and the twin spires of Bowdoin College rise above the trees with a dense growth of pines behind them. The Androscoggin comes down from Umbagog Lake and the White Mountains to tumble over the falls that turn the mill-wheels of Brunswick, and then it flows on to unite its waters with the Kennebec in Merry Meeting Bay. Bowdoin is the chief college of Maine, chartered in the last century, and having had Hawthorne and Longfellow among its graduates, the latter being its professor of modern languages before he was called to Harvard. We leave its spires behind, and are soon approaching at Bath the Kennebec, the great river that sends its prolific crops of ice and timber throughout the world. The Kennebec flows out of the largest lake in Maine (Moosehead), and, descending a thousand feet in its course of one hundred and fifty miles, making valuable water-power, it enters the Atlantic through Sheepscott Bay, an irregular indentation of the coast studded with many islands.

The town of Bath has long been famed as the great shipbuilding port of Maine. Here, more than anywhere in New England, has been the practical realization of Longfellow's invocation :

"Build me straight, O worthy master,

Staunch and strong a goodly vessel

FROM PORTLAND TO THE PENOBSCOT. 245

That shall laugh at all disaster,

And with wave and whirlwind wrestle."

The town has its front border of shipyards, unfortunately until recently without much employment, their occupation being curtailed because most of the world seems to prefer building its ocean tonnage of iron and steel, rather than of wood, which is the great Maine staple. The railwaytrain is ferried across the noble Kennebec to Woolwich on the opposite shore, giving a fine view of Bath fringed for two or three miles along the western bank, while on either hand the rocky shores slope steeply down as the river flows between. Again we plunge into the forests to traverse the peninsula between the Kennebec and the Penobscot, the two great rivers of Maine, crossing various streams and arms of the sea, and passing the towns of Wiscasset, Damariscotta, Waldoboro', and Thomaston to Rockland. Damariscotta was named for Damarine, the old sachem of Sagadahoc, who was called "Robin Hood" by the whites who bought his domain to make the site of Bath. The route crosses the Sheepscott and St. George's Rivers and skirts the head of Muscongus Bay, passing through the counties of Lincoln and Knox, bearing famous Revolutionary names, while Waldo county is to the northward. After leaving the Kennebec the crop of rocks is even more stupendous, huge crags thrusting out from every hill, with trees clinging to them, excepting where the surface refuses to give either soil or roots a foothold. Yet these rocks have their virtue. They make the purest water. These hills are full of springs, feeding many pretty lakes and streams, and adding to the beauties of the forest landscape as we wind among the hills and skirt the bays and harbors on the route eastward toward Penobscot Bay. Then, gliding down to the edge of that great bay, we halt at its flourishing port of Rockland, on Owl's Head Bay, looking out upon the Penobscot, with its guiding light upon the point

called the Owl's Head. These are more of Maine's famous bays and havens, of which Whittier sings:

"From gray sea-fog, from icy drift,
From peril and from pain,

The homebound fisher greets thy lights,

O hundred-harbored Maine!"

XXXIV.

THE RIVER OF NORUMBEGA.

WE have come to the chief river of Maine, the Penobscot, draining the larger portion of its enormous forests and emptying into the ocean through the greatest of the many bays that are thrust into its rugged coast. Three centuries ago this was the semi-fabulous river of Norumbega, thus named by the Spaniards and Portuguese, who sent the earliest explorers to these prolific fishing-grounds of America. At that time Europe knew of no stream that was its equal, and no bay with such broad surface or such enormous tidal flow. Hence many were the tales and great the wonder about weird Norumbega, whence many adventurers went to examine and colonize. The Penobscot is the most extensive bay on the sea-coast of Maine, which in many respects is the most remarkable coast in the country. It is jagged and uneven, seamed with deep inlets and serrated with craggy headlands projecting far out into the ocean, while between are hundreds of rocky and, in many cases, romantic islands. This coast is composed almost entirely of granites and sienites and other metamorphic rocks that have been deeply scraped and grooved ages ago by the huge glaciers, which, descending from the north and stretching many miles into the sea, were of such vast thickness and ponderous weight as to plough out the immense valleys