Dictionary of An. Geog.,' we refer the traveller also to Leake's Topography of Athens,' and 'Demi of Attica, to Wordsworth's Athens and Attica,' to Dean Stanley's admirable Essay on Greek Topography,' and to Penrose's Principles of Athenian Architecture.' These works will afford all necessary information. Travellers will find in the Library of the University the means of consulting the best works respecting the History, the Archæology, the Botany, &c. &c., of Greece. An order from the Conservator of Antiquities, is, properly speaking, required for admission to the Acropolis, and is granted on application; but a small fee to the veterans of the Revo

her beauty, and said to be the 'Maid | clined, with their limbs gathered under of Athens' of Lord Byron. Their them on the divan, and without shoes. apartment is immediately opposite to Their employments are the needle, ours, and, if you could see them, as tambouring, and reading." The Maid we do now, through the gently waving of Athens' is now Mrs. Black (1871), aromatic plants before our window, and is reduced to very indigent ciryou would leave your heart in Athens. cumstances. Theresa (the Maid of Athens'), Ca- After this sketch of the actual continca, and Mariana are of middle dition of modern Athens, we shall stature. On the crown of the head of proceed to give a brief but systematic each is a red Albanian skull-cap, with account of its situation, history, antia blue tassel spread out and fastened quities, &c. A full illustration of this down like a star. Near the edge or part of our subject would, of course, bottom of the skull-cap is a handker- require volumes. Besides the admirchief of various colours bound roundable article Athena' in Dr. Smith's their temples. The youngest wears her hair loose, falling on her shoulders, the hair behind descending down the back nearly to the waist, and, as usual, mixed with silk. The two eldest generally have their hair bound, and fastened under the handkerchief. Their upper robe is a pelisse edged with fur, hanging loose down to the ankles; below is a handkerchief of muslin covering the bosom, and terminating at the waist, which is short; under that a gown of striped silk or muslin, with a gore round the swell of the Loins, falling in front in graceful negligence; white stockings and yellow slippers complete their attire. The two eldest have black, or dark, hair and eyes; their visage oval, and com-lution who are quartered there will plexion somewhat pale, with teeth of dazzling whiteness. Their cheeks are rounded, and noses straight, rather inclined to aquiline. The youngest, Mariana, is very fair, her face not so finely-rounded, but has a gayer expression than her sisters, whose countenances, except when the conversation has something of mirth in it, may be said to be rather pensive. Their persons are elegant, and their manners pleasing and ladylike, such as would be fascinating in any country. They possess very considerable powers of conversation, and their minds seem to be more instructed than those of the Greek women in general. With such attractions, it would indeed be remarkable if they did not meet with great attentions from the travellers who occasionally are resident in Athens. They sit in the eastern style, a little re

generally serve the same purpose. If the weather be favourable, a moonlight visit should be paid to the Acropolis.

The following plan for the disposal of 4 days in Athens and its vicinity may here be given:

1. See the sunrise from the Acropolis; visit the monuments there: then the Areopagus, the Pnyx, the Temple of Theseus, the Monument of Philopappus, the Odeum of Herodes, the Dionysiac Theatre, the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, the Ilissus, the Fountain of Callirrhoë, the Panathenaic Stadium, the Arch of Hadrian, the Monument of Lysicrates, the Tower of the Winds, the Agora, the Stoa of Hadrian. These objects lie within a reasonable distance of each other; and there is little of modern or mediæval interest

to withdraw the attention from the after dinner, sleep at the monastery, antiquities.

2. Drive.-1 mile to Colonos, the low white hill to the N. of Athens, scene of one of the plays of Sophocles; and his birthplace. On an adjoining eminence there is a monument of white marble in memory of the German scholar and antiquary, K. O. Müller, who died of fever in Greece, a victim to his zeal for classical research. There is a good view of Athens, with its plain, the Gulf, and the mountains, from the "white brow of Colonos." Thence drive through the neighbouring olive-groves of the Academy, watered by the Kephissus, and so to the Pass of Daphne. Then proceed to the Piræus, and drive round by the tomb of Themistocles, and the harbours of Munychia and Phalerum. From the latter return straight to Athens.

3. Marathon (20 m.) and back; with a relay of horses, or in a carriage as far as Kephissia, a village at the foot of Pentelicus, and nearly half-way. Go by Vranà and return by the village of Marathon. The best view of the plain is from the hill in descending to Vranà.

4. On this day one may go up either Pentelicus or Hymettus, or drive in a carriage to Megara and back. If you go up Pentelicus, you see the marble quarries, and enjoy a splendid view of Euboea, the Euripus, Marathon, and all Attica. If you go up Hymettus, you have a good view of Athens, and of the three plains of Attica. You can ride all the way up Pentelicus (in 4 hrs. from Athens), and nearly all the way up Hymettus. During the hot months one may with advantage drive out to Pentelicus

where a clean, furnished room is kept for visitors, and ascend to the top of the mountain by sunrise next morning. One may thus be back in Athens by 10 A.M.

Those who wish to see at a moderate expense of time and money what is best worth seeing, should then, if the dates be suitable, take the steamer, which leaves the Piræus once a week for Nauplia and the ports of the Peloponnesus. It starts at 6 A.M. and reaches Nauplia in the afternoon, having called at several island ports-Egina, Poros, Hydra, and Spetzia.

As a steamer sets out on its return to the Piræus early next morning, the traveller, if returning by it, would only have time to see Nauplia and the fortress of Palamedes. departure of the steamer from the The day of Piræus for Nauplia (1871) is Monday and if one have 4 days at one's disposal, this time may be most advantageously spent by going from Nauplia in 2 days to Corinth, stopping over the intervening night at Nemea, and returning on the Thursday from Calamaki to the Piræus.* We can from our own experience most strongly recommend this excursion, which includes a visit to temple of Nemea, and an ascent of Tiryns, Argos, Larissa, Mykenæ, the the Acrocorinthus, as well as two de lightful days' sailing. For details see

Routes

"Corfu to Athens" and "Athens to Nauplia," &c. The 4 days' of escort, may be made for about 51. excursion from Athens, including cost each person for a party of three or four

persons.

This route may be reversed, the traveller

going from the Piraus on Wednesday night or by Nauplia, leaving that port on the following on Sunday morning to Calamaki, and returning Tuesday morning at 2 o'clock.

B.-ANCIENT ATHENS.

I. Situation.—II. History.—III. Divisions, extent, population, &c.—IV. Topography and general Survey of the Acropolis. (1. Temple of Victory-2. The Propylaa-3. The Parthenon-4. The Erechtheum.)-V. Topography of the Asty (ǎσTU). 1. The Horologium of Andronicus Cyrrhestes, or "Temple of the Winds"-2. Gate of Athena Archegetis-3. Gymnasium of Hadrian4. Gymnasium of Ptolemy-5. The Theseum-6. Hill of the Nymphs-7. The Pay-8. The Agora-9. The Museum-10. The Fountain of Callirrhoë11. The Panathenaic Stadium-12. The Olympieum-13. Arch of Hadrian14. The Choragic Monument of Lysicrates-15. The Dionysiac Theatre16. The Odeum of Herodes or Regilla-17. The Areopagus-18. The Keramicus, Academy, &c.-19. Other Monuments, Aqueduct of Hadrian, &c. -VI. Piræus, and the Port Towns (Suburbs).—VII. Environs of Athens.

I. Situation.-Athens is situated about 5 miles from the sea, in the central plain of Attica, which is bounded on the N.W. by Mt. Parnes, on the N.E. by Pentelicus, on the S.E. by Hymettus, and on the W. by Mt. Ægaleos. On the S. it is open to the Gulf of Salamis. The most prominent eminence in the plain is a conical peak, surmounted by a chapel of St. George, formerly identified with the Anchesmus of Pausanias, but now generally called by its more famous

name, Lycabettus. This hill is to the Grecian capital what Vesuvius is to Naples, or Arthur's Seat to Edinburgh; from its summit Athens and its neighbourhood lie unrolled before the eye as in a map. To the S.W. of Lycabettus are four eminences, all of which were included in ancient Athens. Of these the nearest to Lycabettus is the ACROPOLIS, a rock rising to a height of about 350 feet above the plain, with a flat summit more or less 1000 ft. long from E. to W., by 500 broad from N. to S. Immediately W. by N. of the Acropolis is a lower eminence of irregular form, the AREOPAGUS. The hill to the W. by S. is the PNYX, and to the S.W. is a fourth hill, the MUSEUM. On the S.E. of the city runs the ILISSUS, and on the W. the KEPHISUS, rivulets which become nearly dry in summer. They fall into the Saronic Gulf, near the three ancient ports, Piræus, Munychia, and Phalerum, or are swallowed up by marshes.

The Athenian soil and climate exercised a very important influence upon the buildings of the city and on the manners of its inhabitants. Hence we may account for the meanness of their houses, and the defects of their streets and domestic architecture; hence it was that the Athenian people worshipped, legislated, and witnessed dramatic representations, under the open sky. The clearness and brilliant colouring of the atmosphere, the flood of fire with which the marble columns,

1

mountains, and the sea are bathed by | Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run

an Athenian sunset, the violet hue Along Morea's hills the setting sun; Not, as in northern climes, obscurely bright, which Hymettus assumes in the even- But one unclouded blaze of living light! ing sky, in contrast to the glowing O'er the hushed deep the yellow beam he throws rock of Lycabettus and the rosy Pen-Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows. The God of Gladness sheds his parting smile; On old Ægina's rock, and Hydra's isle, O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine,

"ever

telicus, have been felt and admired by
ancient and modern poets. Euripides
describes his countrymen as
lightly tripping through an ether of
surprising brightness (Medea, 825);
and Milton thus sums up (Paradise
Regained,' lib. iv.) the characteristics
of the climate and scenery, as well as
many of the immortal associations, of
Athens:-

Where on the Ægean shore a city stands,
Built nobly, pure the air, and light the soil;
Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts
And eloquence, native to famous wits
Or hospitable, in her sweet recess,
City or suburban, studious walks and shades.
See there the olive grove of Academe,
Plato's retirement, where the Attic bird

Trills her thick-warbled notes the summer long;
There flowery hill Hymettus, with the sound
Of bees' industrious murmur, oft invites
To studious musing; there Ilissus rolls
His whispering stream within the walls; there

view

The schools of ancient sages; his, who bred
Great Alexander to subdue the world,
Lyceum there, and painted Stoa next:
There shalt thou hear and learn the secret power
Of harmony, in tones and numbers hit

By voice or hand; and various-measured

verse,
Eolian charms and Dorian lyric odes,
And his who gave them breath, but higher sung.
Blind Melesigenes, thence Homer called,
Whose poem Phoebus challenged for his own:
Thence what the lofty grave tragedians taught

Though there his altars are no more divine.

Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss
Their azure arches through the long expanse
More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance;
And tenderest tints, along their summits driven,
Till deeply shaded from the land and deep,
Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven;
Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep.

Thy glorious gulf, unconquered Salamis !

Sir Henry Holland thus describes Athens of the year 1819:

"Those who expect to see in Athens only the more splendid and obvious testimonies of its former state, will be agreeably disappointed. The Parthenon, the Temple of Theseus, the Propylæa, are individually the most striking objects; yet it may perhaps be added that they have been less interesting singly than in their combined relation to that wonderful grouping of nature and art which gives its peculiarity to Athens, and renders the scenery of this spot something which tion. Here, if anywhere, there is a is ever unique to the eye and recolleccertain genius of the place, which unites and gives a character and colouring to the whole; and it is further worthy of remark, that this genius loci is one which strikingly connects the modern Athens with the city of former days. Every part of the surrounding landscape may be recognised as harmonious and beautiful in itself, and at the same time as furnishing those features which are consecrated by ancient description, by the history of heroic actions, and still more as the scene of those celebrated schools of philosophy which have transmitted their influence to every succeeding age. The stranger who is unable to appreciate the architectural beauties of the temples of Athens, yet can admire A quotation from one English poet the splendid assemblage they form in suggests others, and the following their position, outline, and colouring, lines will be read with interest at can trace out the pictures of the poets Athens, as conveying an accurate pic-in the vale of Cephissus, the hill of ture of a sunset there:Colonos, and the ridge of Hymettus,

In Chorus or lambic, teachers best
Of moral prudence, with delight received
In brief sententious precepts, while they treat
Of fate, and chance, and change in human life,

High actions and high passions best describing:

Thence to the famous orators repair,
Those ancients, whose resistless cloquence
Wielded at will that fierce democratie,
Shook the arsenal, and fulmined over Greece
To Macedon and Artaxerxes' throne:
To sage Philosophy next lend thine ear,
From heaven descended to the low-roofed house
Of Socrates; see there his tenement,
Whom well-inspired the oracle pronounced
Wisest of men; from whose mouth issued forth
Mellifluous streams, that watered all the schools

Of Academies old and new, with those
Surnamed Peripatetics, and the sect
Epicurean, and the Stoic severe.