coast, visiting the islands of the Egean, with little annoyance from custom-house or police-officers; see the towns and some of the most beautiful parts of the country; and defer his excursions into the interior until the great heat subsides. His first care should be to select a good, and, if possible, a new, boat, as more likely to be free from vermin, belonging to some person known to an English Consul, or to some respectable resident merchant. There should be three or four able-bodied sailors on board, and the after-deck should be covered with an awning, to remain spread day and night. This, in the Greek climate, is preferable to a close cabin. Provisions and stores must be laid in to last from one large town to another. Formerly, from the prevalence of piracy, these excursions were impracticable; but now there is little danger; however, it is advisable to obtain information on this point previous to undertaking any such expeditions. It is always interesting for a classical scholar to find himself among Greek sailors; he will soon remark numerous instances in which they retain the customs of the earliest ages, and the old modes of expressing them in language. The navigation of a people so essentially maritime naturally affords frequent examples of the preservation of ancient manners. The peg furnished with a loop of leather or ropе (τроπwτʼnр), by which Greek boatmen secure their oars, instead of using rowlocks, and other contrivances and tactics of the ancients, may be observed in daily use among the moderns. So too the broad boat (evpeîa σxedín) built by Ulysses in Calypso's isle, seems to have closely resembled that now generally employed by the fishermen and coasting-traders of the Ægean and Ionian seas. The narrative of a voyage by Homer would be a not inaccurate account of going to sea in a boat of the country at the present day the putting up the mast before starting, &c., are all portrayed to the life. So also the fascines which often envelop the gunwale, and protect the crew from the waves, and from the danger of a sudden heel, are exactly described in the Odyssey (v. 256). The Greek seas are still as fickle as ever; "Calm as a slumbering babe or else there sweep over its surface changing breezes, or wild and sudden storms. i. ACCOMMODATION FOR TRAVELLERS; PROVISIONS, &c. A khan is a species of public-house inhabited by the keeper, or Khanji, and his family; and is open to all comers, though provisions are not always found there. In towns, the khan is generally a large building enclosed in a court-yard, consisting of two floors, the lower a stable, the upper divided into unfurnished rooms, opening into a wooden gallery which runs all round the edifice, and to which access is gained outside by stairs. The old "Tabard Inn" at Southwark, and similar ancient hostels in England, were probably constructed much on the same plan, with the addition of a common room for meals, which rarely exists in a khan. In unfrequented districts, the khan is usually a single room, or shed, "with a raised floor at one end for humanity, and all the rest devoted to cattle-sometimes quadrupeds and bipeds are all mixed up together." The Turks erected khans at convenient distances throughout their dominions, and still maintain them for the reception of travellers in all parts of the Ottoman Empire. In Greece, they were nearly all ruined during the Revolution; but since the restoration of tranquillity, some of them have been repaired by poor Greek families who reside in them, and have generally a small supply of wine, bread, olives, spirits of the country called raki, and sometimes bacon, sausages, and eggs, which they sell to travellers. These reconstructed hhans stand singly, generally midway between towns and villages, and are better adapted for repose at mid-day than for spending the night in. The proprietors expect a small present in return for the use of the house, if a traveller lodges there. The price of the refreshments supplied is moderate; their quality is inferior. Previously to 1840, or even later, a "Chapter on Inns" in Greece would have resembled the "Chapter on Snakes" in a certain work on Ireland. "There are no snakes in this country." But at Athens, there have since been established hotels which will bear comparison with those in Italian cities; as also poor inns at Patras, Syra, Nauplia, Chalkis, Salonica, &c. Though these latter establishments in general afford very inferior accommodation, it is still an incalculable advantage to the traveller to be thus enabled to direct his steps at once to a house where he is sure of being received, instead of having to wait till a lodging is found, or to depend on the hospitality of the natives of the country. In towns where no inns have yet been established, a room or two can be hired in a private house, and sometimes a whole house may be engaged, for a night's lodging, or for as long a time as may be required. The proprietor supplies nothing but bare walls and a roof, not always water-proof: the traveller must therefore have his own bed, provisions, &c. The keepers of coffee-houses and billiard-rooms (which are now very general) will always lodge a traveller, but he must expect no privacy here. He must live all day in public, and be content at night to have his mattrass spread, with some twenty others belonging to the family or other guests, either on the floor or on a wooden divan which surrounds the room. When particular honour is to be shown to a guest, his bed is laid upon the billiard table: he never should decline this distinction, as he will thereby have a better chance of escape from vermin. In small villages a traveller may consider himself fortunate if a peasant will afford him a night's lodging. The cottage of the peasant is a long narrow building, without any partition whatever, and admitting the rain abundantly. The apertures, however, which allow its entrance are so far useful, that the smoke obtains egress through them; few of these cottages possess the luxury of a chimney, and as the chimneys usually smoke the rooms are better without them. In one end of the house the horses, cattle, and poultry are lodged, while the traveller, his guides, servants, the whole family of the house, and perhaps other travellers, rolled up promiscuously in their capotes, occupy the other parts of the room. The discomfort of such a lodging is, of course, considerable; but it is not without its advantages. If there is little physical, there is much moral entertainment. The stranger is almost invariably received with much natural courtesy; and in the domestic arrangements, manners, and language of his hosts, he will find much to remind him of their forefathers. The description in Homer of the cottage of Eumæus is not inapplicable to the hut of a Greek peasant of the existing generation; while the agricultural implements and usages of the present day are not far removed from those of the times of Hesiod. It has been remarked, moreover, that Aristophanes in the Frogs' introduces Bacchus, on his journey to Hades, with an equipage very similar to that now customary among the less luxurious class of modern travellers in Greece. Even the ferocious attacks of vermin, which soon find out an Englishman, are exactly described in the graphic accounts given by Aristophanes of similar sufferings in Greek houses of old-a reflection with which the classical scholar may endeavour, if he can, to console himself in the watches of the night for they will often ensure to him "a sober certainty of waking bliss," Every Greek cottage, however poor the owner, has its little image of the Virgin, or of some patron-saint, in one corner, before which a lamp is always kept burning. "With all its drawbacks, this wild life-for it really is the life of a wild animal-has great charms. The first rays of the sun gilding the summit of Athos, or Olympus, or Pentelicus, or Parnassus, or Ida, or Lebanon, or of some other mountain of many memories, which is sure to bound your horizon in the East, place you in the saddle, after a refreshing swim in the Egean, if it be near, or a plunge in some classic stream, if the sea be too far off; and the first pale beams of the rising moon, or of the evening star, bid you sink, like a bird of the forest, to rest." There are no hardships in such a life but such as it will be a pleasure to look back upon hereafter: μετὰ γάρ τε καὶ ἄλγεσι τέρπεται ἀνὴρ ὅστις δὴ μάλα πολλὰ πάθῃ καὶ πολλ ̓ ἐπαληθῇ. Hom., Od., xv. 399. Provisions.-The markets in all the towns of Greece, and the Greek provinces of Turkey are usually well supplied with mutton, poultry, and game. On market or feast-days, sheep and kids may often be seen being roasted whole on wooden poles over a fire in the open air-in the Homeric fashion. When cooked, they are cut up and sold at so much per pound. The traveller should never neglect the opportunity of purchasing a supply of this meat, for it is generally tender and good. Fish is abundant in all sea-ports, but is rarely to be met with inland. In the Greek church there are four Lents in the year, besides numerous fast-days, all of which are rigidly observed by the country people. Travellers in the interior should always ascertain when they occur, and make provision accordingly, as at such times the markets are totally deserted. Wine.-At Athens, Corfu, Nauplia, and Patras, common French wines may be procured. The best Greek wines are those of the islands, particularly of Ithaca, Zante, Samos, Thera (Santorin), and Cyprus. The vin du pays grown in the interior of Greece is resinous, and scarcely drinkable at first by a foreigner, as it savours of vinegar and sealing-wax. It is the custom to impregnate it with resin or turpentine, now as of old, whence, according to Plutarch, the Thyrsus of Bacchus was ornamented with a pine-cone. This mixture is said by Pliny to favour the preservation of the liquor, and also to impart to it medicinal qualities. j. GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE OF GREECE. The Alps form the cantons of Switzerland, and its mountain-ranges in a similar manner divided Greece into distinct states. The leading feature of this country was admirably caught by Gray when he described it as the land "Where each old poetic mountain The great kingdoms of Europe are not so severed by their natural boundaries as are the provinces of Greece; and the physical formation of the country and its climate have had a vast effect on the character of the people. The extended coast-line was favourable to commerce; the independence of so many different states produced a rivalry of arts as well as of arms; the limestone rocks furnished the materials of her splendid and enduring military architecture; and to her marble quarries Greece owed her statues and her temples. The limits of Hellas were, perhaps, never fixed with accuracy, though a frontier line drawn across Thessaly, from the mouth of the Peneus to the north-east corner of the Ambracian Gulf, would be not altogether inappropiate. Of old the Epirote and Macedonian tribes were not regarded as Hellenes; and even the Etolians were considered at best as only sem.. Hellenic. But many of the princes and ruling families of these nations had always been of genuine Hellenic blood; and in later ages- especially after the illustrious career and conquests of Alexander and Pyrrhus— they were virtually incorporated with the Greeks. The long ridge of Pindus, itself an offset of the Alps, forms the backbone, as it were, of northern Greece, separating Albania (i. e. Epirus and a portion of ancient Illyria) from Macedonia and Thessaly. Lateral ranges of mountains, stretching out from Pindus, encircle the central plains of Macedonia; and others, under the names of the Cambunian Hills and of Mount Othrys, respectively form the northern and southern frontiers of the great valley of Thessaly, which, on the east, is bounded by Olympus and Ossa, between whose famous peaks the Peneus finds its way to the sea through the narrow gorge of Tempe. On approaching the limits of ancient Hellas, properly so called, Pindus stretches out east and west to the Ægean and Ionian Seas, as if to shield with a mountain barrier that fair and favoured land. To the east branches out the chain of Othrys, and behind it, that of Eta, forming with its offshoots the frontiers of Phokis, Boeotia, Doris, and Locris. To the west, the northern boundary of Etolia and Acarnania assumes the name of the Ægræan Hills. To the south, a virtual continuation of the central ridge of Pindus takes different titles as it separates each valley or province from its neighbours. Thus it divides Phokis from Boeotia, and is then called Parnassus; next it becomes Helicon; in Kithæron and Parnes it forms the northern boundary of Attica; then it raises its honoured head in Pentelicus and Hymettus, and sinks into the sea at Sunium. But it emerges again in the rugged and lofty crags of the Ægean Islands; we may trace it in the hills of Euboea, in the cliffs of Keos, in the marble quarries of Paros, in the holy Delos, and in Mount Ida of Crete. It has been remarked that there is a singular physical correspondence between Greece as compared with other countries, and Europe as compared with other continents. And if Greece is a miniature Europe, the Peloponnesus is a miniature Greece. Towering above the shore of the Corinthian Gulf, the lofty range of the Arcadian hills, commencing with the wooded heights of Erymanthus, runs in an easterly direction to the central peak of Kyllene, thus dividing from the inland valleys of Arcadia the narrow strip of coast-land which forms Achaia. From the rocky pile of Kyllene a wavy line of hills stretches away towards Corinth, and is conpected by the Isthmus with Mount Geranea-an offshoot of Kithæron. Again, to the south-east of Kyllene, the huge barrier of Mount Mænalus separates Arcadia on the west from the Argolic Peninsula on the east. Southward from Mænalus extends the ridge of Parnon, the eastern limit of the valley of Sparta, which is bounded on the west by the magnificent range of Taygetus, ending in the Tænarian promontory. On the west of Taygetus, the hills which form the southern and western limit of the upland plain of Arcadia are continued in the rugged surface of Messenia, in Mounts Ithome and Evas, in the peak of Lykæus, and in the low hills which encircle the luxuriant valley of Olympia, refreshed and beautified by the waters of the Alpheus winding through it to the sea. The rapid sketch here attempted will, it is hoped, induce the traveller, before setting out from home, to render himself familiar with the vivid and elaborate pictures of Greek topography which he will find in the first chapter of Bishop Thirlwall's History,' in the commencement of Dr. Wordsworth's 'Greece Pictorial,' &c., and in Dean Stanley's admirable essay in the Classical Museum' (vol. i. pp. 41-81). No one can pretend to understand the history of Greece until he has acquired an accurate idea of its geography. Among the many other advantages of such knowledge we may enumerate one which Dean Stanley has truly and eloquently brought into prominence. "If the study of Greek topography," he says, "tends to fix in our minds the nature of the limits of Greece, it also tends more powerfully than anything else to prevent our transferring to Greek history the notions derived from the vast dominion and colossal power of modern or even of Roman times. The impression of the small size of Greek states to any one who measures human affairs by a standard not of physical but of moral grandeur, will be the very opposite to a feeling of contempt. No Hindoo notions of greatness, as derived from mere magnitude, can find any place in the mind of one who has fully realized to himself the fact, that within the limits of a two days' journey lie the vestiges of four such cities as Sicyon, Corinth, Megara, and Athens; and that the scanty stream of the Ilissus, the puny mountains of Parnassus and Citharon, have attained a fame which the Mississippi and the Himalayas can never hope to equal." k. PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS ON HELLENIC ARCHITECTURE. It would be beyond the scope of the present work to discuss the sculp ture, the vases, the coins, or the other relics of Hellenic antiquity, which are now best studied in the Museums of Western Europe. (See HANDBOOK OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM.) But it will not be out of place to make some practical observations which may facilitate to every traveller in Greece the proper understanding and classification of the splendid remains of Hellenic architecture. This subject naturally ranges itself under three heads-I. The Masonry of the Ancient Greeks, as exemplified chiefly in the ruins of their military architecture; II. The three Grecian OrdersDoric, Ionic, and Corinthian; III. The arrangement of the Grecian Temple, Theatre, &c. I. The Masonry of the Ancient Greeks.-The material employed was almost universally the palombino, or dove-coloured limestone, of which the mountains of Greece are generally formed. The various species of Greek masonry may be conveniently reduced to three classes : 1. Cyclopean-that is the primitive style of the ante-historical ages. Irregular blocks of stone are here rudely adapted to each other, the interstices being filled up with smaller pieces, or with rubble. Such rough walls, hardly to be distinguished at first sight from the masses of broken rock which strew the surface of a limestone country, are called Cyclopean, because they were of old believed to have been erected by the Cyclopes, those fabulous giants of mythology. The best example of this style of masonry is presented in the ruins of Tiryns. 2. Pelasgic, or Polygonal, where irregular blocks of stone, of every possible variety of angles, are compactly fitted together. This is a more refined mode of building than that just described, and derives its name of Pelasgic from the best and most numerous specimens of it being found in Greece and Central Italy, which were the principal seats of the Pelasgian tribes. A beautiful example of this polygonal style is exhibited in the walls of Mykenæ, which have been incorrectly called Cyclopean by some writers. 3. Hellenic, the rectangular masonry of the later period of Greek |